What brand/type of bulb did u use?
Generic led bulbs output does not match with their halogens counterpart... just blobs of bright light..

No load resistor required for all, except for turn signal lamp. I 1st bought those normal amber LED & got hyperflash issue (blinking rapidly like when a halogen is blown) & panel meter keeps showing check LH / RH signal. Then i look around n there r a few alternatives. One of it is to change the signal relay that's meant for LED. However, in iriz, there's no such relay to swap as it's embedded in the board that controls all these (forgot what the term). Then there's another option - add load resistors, but it gonna produce a lot of heat & I don't like the idea of those load resistors dangling around (we already hv enough headaches with rattling & vibration noise). Finally I managed to source from aliexpress. It's LED but built-in with resistor, hence maintaining the original wattage. If u want, I can PM u the link. But of course, it's pricey. And it's freaking bright when blinking at night. I can see those road signs reflecting amber color. 😁 But imo, not as annoying as those new Toyotas with rear fog light turning on when it's not necessary. Bright red light. FYI, Toyota even had released videos educating its drivers on what is the purpose of it & when it should be on ie. Heavy rain/fog. But I see those Toyota owners turned it on even when there's no rain. Eye sore.

LED with built-in resistor, hence maintaining the original wattage sound interesting. What's the price range?

Those Japanese brands is also to blame as their switches are those that stays on until you turn off. So those ignorant users can always use the dumb "didn't realise" excuse... I like Proton's approach where the foglights are on user demand, hence will never have the "forgot to turn off" situation.

PMed u the link. U'll get better deal through using the app.

PM links too

Bro, PM me as also

Maybe the ET is too low..iinm standard is 46

Was quoted 180/pcd at ChorSam kemuning for V12 Evo2 but went for Kumho PS31 anyway because of cheaper 😁

Good day all, after lurking in various Proton threads for a while decided to purchase an Iriz.
Was about to get a secondhand car with the likes of Persona/Preve/Iriz but I got a deal for unregistered 2016 1.3 Executive MT variant at my local Proton showroom. I grabbed the offer because I am looking to purchase a car within 30k+++ budget.

(FYI, 2017 Iriz 1.3 Standard MT is beyond my budget as the OTR price is around 40k ++ here in Borneo, hence I wouldn't consider that)

Any things I should watch out for, since it's not driven for 2 years (technically a 2-year showroom car  ) ?

I have Proton Iriz CVT 1.3 cc,  my reverse sensor keep beeping when change gear to reverse. Any suggestion and my car already 3 years..

Hi guys, I m relatively new to posting in this forum. Is it against any rules to post the link directly instead of by PM?

3 years warranty already ended. So how u solve it?

3 years warranty already ended. So how u solve it?

Hi guys.. been a while I didn't post anything here. I'm about to renew my insurance for second time for my wife 1.6 auto premium model made 2016. The thing is, I been asking several insurance companies on sum insured (agreed value) and they only can give me range from 37k to 42k only. Last year my sum insured is 60k at agreed value.. so much depreciation meh?

Appreciate if anyone here can show me which insurance company can offer  higher agreed value for sum insured. Let say 45k at least. Highest I got from Lonpac & Kurnia at 42k. Liberty - 37k, Tokio - 39k, Alianz - 41k.

Thanks in advance.

Actually, no point going for over-insuring your car. This is because, you can only claim up to the current market value.
For instance, you can insure your car for RM60k when market value is i.e. RM45k... You'll be paying a higher premium and making the insurer happy. But when you claim i.e. total loss, they will only pay RM45k or lower depending on the market value then.

This however, does not mean that you would want to under insure your car as that would then subject you claim to a pro-rating.
For example, Market value is RM45k, but you only insure RM30k believing that is the market value after survey at Mudah. Insurance company will still accept, but it would then mean you are only insuring 66% of your car (30k/45k*100%)...
So when you claim i.e. total loss, and the market value then is RM30k, they will only pay 66% of the RM30k which is about RM20k.

Hi guys.. been a while I didn't post anything here. I'm about to renew my insurance for second time for my wife 1.6 auto premium model made 2016. The thing is, I been asking several insurance companies on sum insured (agreed value) and they only can give me range from 37k to 42k only. Last year my sum insured is 60k at agreed value.. so much depreciation meh?

Appreciate if anyone here can show me which insurance company can offer  higher agreed value for sum insured. Let say 45k at least. Highest I got from Lonpac & Kurnia at 42k. Liberty - 37k, Tokio - 39k, Alianz - 41k.

Thanks in advance.

2nd time , u means for 3rd year right? Same as me premium 2016..
I took agreed value..max can go 42k/43k with etiqa..but I took 40k instead..

I think they already have some calculation on / formula on this..maybe based on 'nilai susut'.. Not sure right or wrong..