10 years of owning Iriz 1.6 Premium, clocking 237km, doing services on-time.

Just changed my engine mounting and the vibration become minimal.
However now my gear level seems to have issue unlocking, often need to restart engine to unlock the gear level.

Workshop will try to ask around on potong Gear level and provide me cost of replacement. While last years changed cooling coil, probably up coming years will change front/rear absorber?

Other than that, still feel comfortable with the car.
Previously ask about S70 and trade in price is just MYR7,000.00, Ok I think I will just stick a bit longer with the car before I change a new car.

remove gear shift lock

If wanna buy S70, wait first. Wait till they finished selling the 3 cylinders engine. Doesn't matter how much improvement manufacturer makes to reduce the vibration and NVH for 3 cylinders, it still felt.

Wife had x70 ckd 1.8T and many times take Socar from Airport, getting x70 1.5T 3 cylinders sometimes x50, yeah can differentiate the vibration for both. And on facelifted X50 with 4 cylinders, many praise no mode vibration at idling as previous engine.

Yes, probably will take this solution.
For my understanding, if it is removed, the gear knob is able to move freely even driving or idling right?


Agreed, rumor said 4 cylinders will be announce end of this year?
Well, new saga also will be announce end of year also, hard choice

annas473ayamxxxcroydonVsmhbabisotong

Last weekend I am in right lane, middle lane car hit me because want to uturn
Any recommendation shop in area Sentul/KL/Selayang?

This post has been edited by shebbycs: Nov 12 2025, 04:52 PM

Hi all.

I am driving Iriz 1.6 2014.

My car having ride quality issues. It doesn’t seem like it absorbs much especially rough and small bumps. It almost feels like the ride quality is out driving in KL roads. The rear is absolutely horrendous and will lift my passengers from the seats when the car jolts on bumps as if I am using sport springs.

It basically feels like the absorption travel is very short and rides on bump stops instead. It’s very very rough.


I already changed all new absorbers. They are all genuine proton parts with correct part numbers to match 2014 models. I also replaced the springs to new original springs.

But the issues are here to stay and I’m honestly at lost on what else should be done to rectify the really rough ride quality.

My tyres are relatively new, continental ultracontact 7 with 195/55/15 profile. 215kpa on the front and 190kpa on the rear. So tyre and pressure should be no issue.

Before I changed all my absorbers, one workshop took a good look at my rear absorber and said this is persona vvt absorbers and not iriz. He added that my rear bump stop is wrong. So he proceeded to cut some part of my bump stops and to my surprise, it works. The rear end is finally soft and able to rebounce softly. But it only lasted for days before the bad ride quality comes back.

By right, it should be fixed when I changed all mu absorbers, bump stops and even spring but it doesn’t. It is so terrible that I don’t really enjoy driving it. Any thoughts?

id say tayar. u might pump more air vs reduce air.
instead of follow spec

Not sure if this will affect but did you change the absorber mounting and bush? Recently I changed many things in suspension for my 2016 Persona VVT. The ride and handling is so much better than previously. The things i changed are front and rear absorbers, absorber cover, absorber mounting, bush. I also changed front lower arm, absorber link, stab bush, engine mounting.

I’ve changed basically everything.. including brand new absorber links, front mounting and rear bushings. All of them are genuine proton parts.

I suspect the bump stops, but I have no idea where to find the original parts number for 2014. Last time I purchased the one for Iriz and Persona, but later I found out that Iriz rear bump stop is using saga VVT one.. so I changed that but seems like it doesn’t work wonders to return the comfyness of compress and especially the lack of rebounce.

This post has been edited by elyssa_: Nov 26 2025, 06:46 PM

That is actually the first thing I’ve tried.. not much different if at all even under inflate all tyres.

Something and somewhere is wrong it seems like the car is riding on limited absorber travels and ride on bump stops instead. The compression is harsh and lack of rebounce after compression.. it’s just crashing down and stop.

The recommended tyre pressure for the front tyre is already very under inflated.

I am wondering if the bump stop actually the culprit.. because after the workshop cut off some of my old rear bump stops, the car is actually twice more comfortable but the solution only works for few days.

I have changed all four side with new bump stops but to no avail.

This post has been edited by elyssa_: Nov 26 2025, 06:52 PM

The harsh ride is the overall or just rear?

195-55-15 i use maxxis ipro in another vehicle (not proton) must pump 245kpa.
else losing comfort & grip

my idea, always refer to google maps car paint shop that has good review. Based on past experience repair like this, rm300-500 budget will done ok back

pump while hot ka

next time i try

overall.. but the rear is significantly worse

the car is basically rides on bump stops like the chassis never settle

Seems like u hv changed most bushes. Have u also changed the rear axle bush? Most of the time, this bush is overlooked.

also can.

got loud gong noise?

axle bush pecah whole car shake when corner

actually ur wheel-fender gap berapa fingers
if rock the car roof from side to side, should feel spring stiffness & know absorber working condition

Bro, rubber degrades by heat & becomes hardened overtime. It's not like yesterday in tip top condition & straight away totally kong today. Maybe the bush has degraded but not up to the extent that it failed totally.

Why I suspected it is because I used to use racing grade silicone rear axle bush (very high hardness). Cornering & instant maneuvers are rock solid. However, it also worsen the NVH significantly given it's on street (bumps & potholes) & not track. So I decided to downgrade it to a more forgiving lower hardness silicone bush, which is in between rubber & race grade.

So my lesson is harder ≠ better. Practicality is more important especially when it's a daily drive & not tracking.

That's the reason why I advise OP to have a look at it. It could have been hardened due to heat & other environment factors. We'll nvr know.

This post has been edited by wjang85: Yesterday, 04:47 PM