Anyway, just ask the SA they will know is which year made.

There's actually 2 type of so-called "year made"
The car could be made in Year 2015 (thus like you mentioned Seatbelt label have 2015 year made) but once registered, the grant might stat 2015 or 2016 depend on how the principal sort this out.


So the most easy way, ask SA.

Yes, there's still some 2015 stocks. But the "Promotion" you probably choose 2016

If you interested could pm me

I think the 2nd type you're referring to is registration year - like the case with recon cars, they're frequently quote 2 dates (10/15), the first being the build year and the latter when it was first registered in msia.
There is only 1 date when the car rolls off the factory floor

I typically take with a pinch of salt what the SA says. I've come across SAs who weren't too sure themselves what they were trying to sell. Then there are SAs who promise you the moon, and then give you a world of excuses when you ask for your deposit back.

Sure there are good SAs in between, but it's important for the buyer to be prepared and well-informed themselves too.

Oh, the 2 type i mentioned;
1. The real manufacture year (seatbelt year made thus usually mean the car being "made" on which year)
2. The "Year Made aka Tahun Dibuat" on our register card =)


As for the Registered Year, i would say all if not most dealer won't really look at it as it does not really add additional value to it. Just my thoughts on this

Anyway, if the SA don't even know the year made of the car they are selling to you. its a big No-No.. imagine if you wanna purchase a car now (Year 2016) and once you received your car, the car grant wrote Tahun Dibuat 2015

Well you already lose a year depreciation value even you had not driven the car. I think no SA should commit this mistake

did anyone noticed there is a hose/vent thingy sticking underneath the front passenger and driver seat, you can see them from the rear passenger, just behind the carpet

is it non-adjustable rear aircon vent?

Hi guys.. i'm looking for previous gen mps rims. Please pm if you have friend/shop selling. Thx!

Anyone did the tuning ?

Anyone here use lock nuts for their rims?? Wanna ask if it's effective cos I heard those thieves won't have problem with the lock nuts.

Hey folks,

I'm gonna go in for my 1st service soon. Anyone using fully synthetic engine oil for their ride ?
The free service uses semi-synthetic engine oil but i'm wondering if its ok for a 6 months/10,000km service interval. I don't mind topping up for fully synthetic though.

Gotta check a few things during the service:
1. "Tok" sound from the front suspension..sound like its coming from the right hand side.

2. Occasional "gong" sound from the back..usually when turning up to a carpark ramp or a mid-corner bumper on the road.

3. "Tik-tik" sound coming from the centre of the dashboard on bumpy roads. This i might live with it as I'm reluctant to open up the dashboard...might create even more sounds after opening it up

Anyway, coming from a Proton which was a like an orchestra, the above sounds are pretty minimal to me

This post has been edited by Rubz77: Apr 18 2016, 11:00 AM

What I know:

Engine oil: Take note that there are some SC provide 2 FULL SYNC Engine Oil(EO) from Shell. If not mistaken la,
1. Topup RM 150+-, Full Sync with grade 5w-40 or 10w-40. Can't remember. Hope some members could clarify.
2. Topup RM 220+-, Full Sync with grade 5w-30.


1. Never heard of "tok" sound. Instead of "tok", oftenly we heard is"kruk kruk" sound. Occurred mostly when the vehicle passing any uneven road surface or go over a bump.

2. No idea. My car didn't create such noise. Lucky though.

3. "Tik Tik" sound. No idea. But noise source coming from center of dashboard, you may want to check the your sunglasses holder. Else, let SC to identify for you.

I also upgraded from Persona. Well, it doesn't sounds like orchestra. Because I will try to identify and eliminates the noise as much as I can, same as in now.

I still trying to figure out the way to eliminates the ticking noise coming from the glove box on passenger side. The black box is creating the ticking noise, no matter how I tighten the cables with cable tie, squeeze some sponge inside. The noise is still there. Damn~

This post has been edited by toonny: Apr 18 2016, 06:01 PM

Never knew there is such vents below the seats. Hahaha.. Does your passenger's toes feeling chill?
Update us so that we could say we have the rear air vents, but for the toes only.. Hahahaha..

The semi is good enough. 6 months oil change is actually considered very short, even decent mineral oil (Honda has mineral oil option even for 10k km oil change) will still be quite ok at this point. My opinion is to just save the cash and stick with the free oil. For the price they charge for the fully synthetic upgrade, can get even better fully synthetic oils if you know where to find.

For me, I just go with the free oil and the car still performing fine as I'm approaching my 3rd service schedule soon. The free oil is lighter, so the engine can rev faster and save a little more petrol. Only go for fully synthetic if you love to rev the engine hard, always have heavy load, crazy jam all the time of your driving and/or a lot of uphill drives.

Enjoy your new ride

hi guys, i'm in the midst of getting the high spec M3. Should I get my car from Bermaz itself or other dealerships? I prefer to get the 2016 model. Anyone knows a get good SA for me to contact (Subang/PJ)? Thanking in advance

Haha..thanks mate.

You must've been lucky with your Proton. My Inspira, a nice car it was, but had lot of suspension noises and buzzing/rattling interior panels within the first couple of months of ownership. Took some time to rectify most of it but the suspension noises and buzzing panels kept coming back till i got fed-up and got immune to it.

Think i will take my time to identify the minor interior noise in the M3.

Ahh okok...thanks for the input bro

mean the free semi oil is at xW30 ? and top up fully is @ xW40 ?
hmmm

i didnt test it out, only found that when i look for something that drop under my car

will try it with aircon on next time

rev up your engine and listen to the skyactiv roar, it can cover those rattling sound that you found

depends on the complexity of the key pattern, some comes with lock that it is not impact wrench compatible (which is good) and some is so lousily made, an allen key can open it

+1
I opted the free semi synthetic too. I think this is just a matter of choosing a bottle of 50 or 100bucks wine. As long as you can feel the difference, and the difference matters to you, then go for the more expensive one

I dont have very particular taste buds, so i'm happy with the cheap ones

As of my previous visit, your statement is correct. However, a few post back, someone said certain service centre offer lighter version of the fully synthetic oil. Go check/consider at your convenience