Can, just remember to change in pairs (meaning 2 tyres in front or 2 tyres at back). Failure to do so may result in instability in high speed drive.

A side note, just pumped in shell ron95 into my tank rather than my usual BHP choice (fuel tank really too low and need to drive quite some distance to the next available BHP station). Conclusion, avoid it, makes the car feel slightly sluggish when compared to ron95 BHP

However, would like to try out the v-power racing someday.

Shell V Power Racing, the additive formulation is proven. For me, I would consider doing a cheap fuel system cleanup/optimisation by pumping V-Power Racing every 5000km. The formulation is proven to solve lots of weird problems related to fuel systems, it is more obvious in the diesel version (sadly not sold here).

It is a good read, and you should read it. A lot of helpful information to learn about your car.

There's a "click" feeling when you maximum pedal travel. But the sad thing is it doesn't hold the gears and will upshift just before red line. Tested it a few times already. In fact, the PCM has a limit to not reach redline

From the readings I gathered from an expert Mazda tuner overseas (they really cracked every single adjustable parameters, not those one time tune mapping type of service), the ECU/PCM needs time to learn about the driving behavior, environment and the petrol put in. It is an "adaptation" process. Minimum 300km and can take up to 3000km for the adaptation to fully mature. Even still, the ECU will continue monitor and adjust accordingly after that. In fact, if you engage their tuning service (not cheap though), they will require you to do data logging multiple times (at least 8) to customise as each and every ECU/PCM profile will be unique to each individual car (even though the electronic modules are mass produced, talking about technological progress and machine learning )

Don't trust the fuel indicator on the dashboard, only the last bar is reliable, can go about 20km-40km when the last bae indicator starts flashing. I too missed the super accurate fuel indicator in the vios, very faithful and reliable that i can predict almost to the point that I'm driving on vapour ) If you drive below 140km/h, then should be at least 500km, anything above that will be hard to say. I think it is programmed to run on power mode on anything above 3500rpm.

By the way, what petrol are you using? I get about 600km for 40L of BHP ron95.

Yes to a certain point, but not so obvious like diesel engine la It is likewise to all direct injection regardless of brand. You'll be surprised how a modern BMW/Mercedes direct injected engine will sound like, also got diesel-like similarities, just not that loud and heavy.

I total about 55-60km daily to work, 50% highway 50% urban drive. On the highway, average around 120km/h most of the time and will drive about 140km/h on a short stretch; the following half of my travel consist of a crawl for about 5-10 minutes and slow drive to home about 5-10 minutes.

Maybe you can have a look at your tyre pressure. Mine i pump 280kpa. Also, there could be a distant possibility of a sticky hand brake.

On the other hand, looks like someone elsewhere is getting naughty with skyactiv turbo. +100hp

Actually, i observed that the car can accelerate really well in 2nd gear and 4th gear. It's just that due to efficiency priority, they will upshift as soon as possible. If you floor the pedal, these 2 gears will be the main selection. Try and observe the difference, no need tuning de....

But i don't deny that accelerating in 3rd and 5th is not a very nice experience.

You can refer here also :
https://euroesi.mazda.co.jp/esicont/eu_eng/...02h1801500.html

Can also google "euroesi.mazda.co.jp skyactiv-G 2.0"

Nice numbers at lower end indeed, but how the overall fuel consumption will still be a question mark until the owner of the tuned car come back to us after the 2nd petrol fill.

Not bad especially the power build up is about 500rpm earlier.
Depends on the skill of the tuner. The aim is to optimise/balance between additional power with more/lesser fuel consumption. The best would be some power increase with lesser fuel consumption, that one have to adjust spark timing advance/retardation, valve timing, EGR rate and air-fuel ratio.

Also depends on the requirement of the car owner, some people have no concern about fuel consumption and want nice peak figures. Some like the power/torque to arrive in the lower to mid range with some fuel consumption optimisation. Some purely want best fuel efficiency and not concerned too much about power curve. So the best situation is to engage a tuner who can tailor to your requirement and your car. As i said before, despite using the same set of mass produced PCM/ECU module, the machine learning part will make your car respond a little different from the other person's car.

This post has been edited by wkc5657: Feb 26 2016, 12:00 PM

The dyno graph was derived from using a physical dynamometer or plug in computer and run dynojet? If using the latter method, it is just a guide and the variance will be quite large. But FC still normal with increased response, not a bad choice

I've not tried what will happen after leaving the car with the key in pocket while the car is running, only the fact that there will be a warning beep if you go out of range. If your car's i-stop is activated, it will turn the engine back on the moment you open the car door.

My thoughts are that even though the car is still running, without the key within the car, the car system will refuse to let you shift gear, hence immobolising the car. But no worries it will turn off the engine or infotainment system for your passenger inside the car can still play with the radios. I think turning off of the engine can still be done if your passenger want to save you some petrol even though you took the car key away. Give it an experiment and report your findings here

How do you get to this screen?

Wa...your fuel economy should be one of the best (if not the best) among us here...

How's your driving style? Smooth and light to moderate acceleration? Or the traffic in your area very good? I see that you have 2 more bars left, still can go at least another 50km before refueling. Yours seriously good leh....

On a side note, i found out that when your distance to empty is zero, there is at least another 5L of petrol in the tank. I found this out today as I want to drain down my tank as much as possible to test out V Power Racing petrol. In the end, managed to pump in 44L instead of closer towards 50L. Would like to know how other owners here attest to my findings.

Check your settings whether is it activated first of all, then try it with the touch n go barrier, mine worked a few times already as i approached the barrier too fast.

The issue during your slow coasting, almost like jerking right? In my opinion is not really an issue. My thoughts is that the ECU struggles in getting the fueling rate right, maybe the engineers didn't optimise the programming really well on that particular zone. I too face this but i just step harder to go faster or slow down until the point it doesn't jerk.

Regarding your brake, how much is your current mileage? Could be due to poor bedding in of the brake pads but I have no first hand experience in this to give a confident comment. I can somehow agree that the braking doesn't feel very linear during the initial travel, then the build up quite substantially further down. If it bothers you a lot, you can inform your the service centre to make some adjustments or look into the problem. It reminds me of the other hyundai family car that i had. Brake feel wise, my thumbs up experience still goes to the Toyota Vios that i previously had.

This post has been edited by wkc5657: Mar 6 2016, 10:54 PM

technically/logically :

wider = more weight = more friction = slower acceleration = more fuel consumption

I can think of 3 methods :
1) Bring the item to the car spray shop, they'll do it for your at a price, could be around RM200-300. They'll settle the paint portion as these people in trade know the colour code and source the paint for you.

2) Buy those 2k spray paint from the automotive garage sale section and DIY. You can ask the seller for more details.
https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...931&hl=2k+spray

3) Go do a plastidip or sticker film. No need to match colour and in fact, let the component stand out. Maybe carbon fibre pattern sticker will be nice. Not sure about the pricing for this option

In the end of the day, it is all about $$$. You can pay, sure can do de.....

This post has been edited by wkc5657: Mar 11 2016, 02:08 PM

Alamak...depan jadi macam lexus pulak

This post has been edited by wkc5657: Mar 16 2016, 04:31 PM

1) Does it sound like a loud "piak" or "tik" sound? Happens mostly on hotter days for me, hardly hear that during night driving or colder days. Maybe something or the screen is not adhering correctly. I just live with it, because mine happen in random, hard to replicate. So won't consult SC on this for now.

2) Is it the absorber sound?

3) The springs are tight. If want to adjust, put a bit of force when resting your back to the seat, then only pull the lever. The action will be smoother that way.

4) If you heavy foot alot and like 4k rpm and above, hard driving highway, your fuel consumption will be high, cannot run away from that. With 2 bars left, you can travel another 50km without worries. The fuel tank is 50L. This car's engine also don't like crawling and idling, drink a lot of fuel during that. Don't compare with vios/myvi/city/almera, these cars are lighter and smaller engine capacity. It is known that direct injected engines don't cope very well with mild engine loads.

5) For me, I would say no harm trying. The paint formula is known in the paint market and can formulate to factory specifications. The part you have to be concerned is the application part, follow carefully then should be ok. Just don't expect perfect finish like the paint shops sifus. If too deep scratch or big patch, cannot rescue....

Did you use soap? And is your cloth genuine mircofibre? If you just want to quick wipedown without soap, it can only be done with very light dust. But for our climate and dusty environment, better soap and wash la....

No wonder la...the soap bubbles will carry the dirt away and also act as a lubrication to avoid/minimise scratching of the paint surface. Anyway the swirl marks are not that difficult to remove, just need to right technique and product.

Forgot to add, even if use quick wipedown method, also need detailing liquid or paint lubricant with microfibre cloth.

You can get some ideas and inspiration from here (all videos) :
http://www.autoblog.com/details/

Only for manual hatchback version using super premium petrol (something like shell v-power racing), but i remembered should be around 8.3s. Can get sub 8s, the tester very geng

Us being automatic version, tambah 1s minimum. Still less than 10s, not bad lah...

Yes, a very nice family car, quiet and solid ride and some more got rear aircond vents, just that the key not so "advanced". For the current price for a 2015 car, the passat is a real steal...would have genuinely consider it if not for the purchase of my mazda 3 much earlier. Well, all is still well and I still like driving the mazda 3

I also was once an owner of the 1st vios, I agree that it is a fuel saving car but the mazda 3 is not a slouch on this aspect either. I'm driving harder and faster with the Mazda but I'm getting close to 90% of the fuel economy of my old faithful vios. Do take note that the Mazda3 has a larger capacity engine, heavier body and larger wheels. If I drive like the pace of the vios, I will handily beat the fuel economy

I'm driving HS, around 14+ to 15km/L is what I'm getting. Shell V Power Racing gives me additional 2-3% (about 20+km) more per tank.

This video is not from our local market, don't know what kind of petrol was added in and also the ambient temperature. In the US, the skyactiv engine uses slightly different components (i can only confirm that the piston is slightly different design, but not sure about other components) in order to cope with the low octane petrol (lowest 87).

Normal for direct injection engine to have slight clacky sound when idle and more so when the engine is cold. My neighbour has a BMW F30 320i, sounded worse than my Mazda, and so does my mum's W205 C Class. If you hear something like the N52 valve tick, that is different story liao....

On a side note, love the bright blue engine cover though, wished it was used in our market instead of the all black one that we currently have.

Not a turbocharged car, so revving it higher to get more power is absolutely normal, but due to fantastic engineering, the power band is at least 1000 rpm below similar rivals in the market where the peak is near red line.

Can't comment on the steering, but try it on a hard corner or hairpin turn with higher speed, you really get the feel of it. I'm don't face the issue that the car move about a lot in straight highway. I usually cruise around 130-140 km/h if the traffic allows, mine seems rather planted. Maybe just need to get used to it and possibly a little alignment adjustment at your trusted workshop.

Still need engine break in la....just not as old school like cars of the past decade. It'll do just fine if you just drive normally without thinking about breaking in and it'll also do just fine if you drive it hard. Just don't red line it too much when it is before your first 1000km. I myself red line my car a few times even before 1000km to understand the engine behaviour. Your comparison between 2 cars of his dad and himself could be a bit misleading. If one car drives a lot on stop go traffic and short distances, the carbon build up will be much significant in that engine. Also, the maintenance habits also affect how the car behaves when it gets older. But this is a bit controversial topic and can discuss to no end....just drive the way you feel most comfortable No need worry so much as modern engineering is much better than the past.

So fast gatal want to change look meh.... keep it as it is for a little while la (maybe a year or more)....then only you can have a proper idea of how you want the car to look like...anyway, good hunting for the perfect look As for me, i would save up to get a forged rims, the car handling would be sweeter

Welcome to the club and enjoy your car