y do u say shift from N to D when moving wil cause damage? Any source?

That's a fiddly topic and everyone has their opinions and their own practices on this.

Generally it is not advised to "freewheel" your car or let it coast neutral. Because in the event that you need to pick up speed suddenly for whichever reason or the brakes fail, also for whichever reason you're really not in control of your speed in any way.

Also, the owner's manual does not encourage you to do it either. The car must be in gear.

Before you do engine braking in a manual car though ensure you speed match your rpms to your speed or you will cause premature wear in your clutch. Ultimately it is cheaper to replace brakes than the clutch, and faster too. You may slow down with your brakes and drop a gear when the car starts to reach 1k, this is what I do to ensure minimal engine and clutch wear and I only do engine braking if it's a long downhill or going down a hill road for extended periods of time to avoid brake fading.

I used to engine brake all the time, to arrive at any stop going from 5th to 2nd and neutral but that put a lot of stress on my clutch and needed replacement in three years on my Mivy so now, on my new MT Iriz, I'm eating my brakes, no problem. Cheap and fast replacement when required. And no free wheeling unless I'm about to roll naturally into a stop light or something at very low speeds like 10 km/h.


Just my opinion.

(All this is "YouTube-able" too)

This post has been edited by rigo3t: Oct 17 2015, 12:27 AM

Good question. Some more our Iriz engine braking so aggressive, little bit little bit sudah engine braking (In some situations, from supposed to save fuel becomes use more fuel )

Maybe in other cars engine braking wont cause too much wear and tear to the engine parts cause theirs are at the appropriate level. In fact, most Auto that I've driven before don't even have/can't feel the engine braking at all. Some of the Auto that i've driven before are, hyundai & perodua cars. Heck, even in my friend's Saga BLM which i've driven quite often, the engine braking is at the appropriate level..

Now i'm already planning to re-route my daily commute to avoid that downhill route..

yes, the debate for MT cars whether to be in gear or neutral when coasting downhill has 2 school of thoughts. Both are neither right nor wrong, even some car "experts" are split between the debate.

Ultimately, it is true as well for the safety factor that necessitates you to always be in gear and not neutral when coasting. In fact, if im not mistaken in the US, it is illegal to be in neutral and one must always be in gear (even at traffic lights!). But this "law" is almost never enforced at all. (it is mostly there for the safety factor in case of emergencies). Hence, the reason many are 50/50 on this.

But for most experienced drivers who have driven manual for a very long time, most of them just coast downhill/to a stop in Neutral. Well because they have been driving for a long time, so even in emergency situations one can react fast enough because they know what to do and not panic. Needless to say, attention to the road is very important.
Hence, if you are a new driver or new to manual transmissions, it's adviced to always be in gear so that you can react appropriately in case of emergencies.

As for the wear and tear parts, it is as you have already explained. Ultimately, whether you want to replace your clutch or brake pads first. and of course brake pads are way cheaper to replace than the clutch.

All these talk however does not apply to auto transmissions. In whatever situation, it is never a good idea to shift from D to N and back to D to coast downhill. Because it puts a lot of load on the transmission system, and if damaged is wayyyyyyy costlier than replacing worn out brake pads.. Which brings the dilemma to us CVT users, the engine braking on Iriz is just too aggressive and we can't do anything about it.. Which sucks..

This post has been edited by LordDenning: Oct 17 2015, 12:54 AM

I've read about these stuffs online before. If i'm free I will post up some links that you can read about..

Anyway, just the gist of it. Do you know for automatic cars, shifting from N to D or D to N (or P to D, well you get the point) puts a lot of load on the drivetrain/transmission system of the car? Which is why whenever you shift from P to D or N to D, the car will jerk slightly. This is because power is surging through the drivetrain of the car.

That's why in car user manuals, they advice for short stops such as traffic lights, you should leave the car in D and engage the footbrakes. Frequently shifting from D to N and vice versa will cause drivetrain/transmission wear and tear to happen sooner..

Of course damaging the transmission system wont happen so easily. Or the damage wont happen immediately, maybe in the future over the course of ownership of your car then the damage may occur.
But still, it is an unnecessary risk you are subjecting yourself to. Again, brake pads are way cheaper to replace than having to fix your transmission system..

So the above what I said, I was talking about situations where the car is stationary. Imagine what could happen when the car is moving then

EDIT: If you want to try, or if you've tried before. Don't you notice then when the car is moving and you shift from D to N and back to D, the car jerks. (in some cases, you can hear a not-so-good sound)

EDIT 2: Many other reasons why remaining in D and not N (unless stopping to idle for a lengthy period) in an auto is generally a better choice.

1)You do not cause unnecessary premature wear and tear to your car's drivetrain/transmission.

2) Being in N doesn't save you more fuel vs being in D. (applies whether at traffic lights or going downhill)
When you are in D, in modern fuel-injection cars, when throttle is not pressed, no fuel is being used.
When you are in N, fuel is periodically pumped to the engine.

So example when you are going downhill :
In D, you only use your brakes, foot not on throttle, 0 fuel is being used. (not to forget added benefit of engine braking)
In N, because the car recognize it is in N, it will automatically pump fuel to the engine. Fuel will be used.

3) Copy pasta from the net. Too long, but worth a read.


This post has been edited by LordDenning: Oct 17 2015, 02:29 AM

Because fucuking Blaupunkt does not want to release an update for firmware to fix this problem in every 1.6 models

so so awesome, and still stable! hahaha

Just broke my radio antenna, too long tbh, and probably a bird hit it while I was driving... anybody knows where can I get those tiny ones as replacement?

This post has been edited by Cwkc93: Oct 17 2015, 03:31 AM

I started cruising after seeing a government campaign for mt cars to cruise (the term used there) when i was on a company tender evaluation trip in uk, back in Q1 2007. Before that i was a strict gear-always-engage-while-driving driver for over 15 years. After coming back, i tried it and adapted to it. Have been cruising whenever feasible since and have never faced any issue of not being able to control my mt car be it my iswara or my avanza.

When in need to pickup speed, in less than 1 sec, a suitable gear is engaged for speed. Even if the break fails, in less than 1 sec, suitable gear will engage for engine breaking. Don't see this as an issue for cruising.

Yes, 100% agree with you. All my cars have always been manual, I've developed a sense of which gear to match my speed I should engage and that's perfectly fine with my clutch, engine and gearbox.

I agree too that throwing N to D in an auto could literally break the gearbox because the it doesn't know what you're doing and it will need to match the speed of the car to the box. I haven't driven an auto Iriz but the cars I've driven auto, engine braking has been practically unnoticeable.

Yes, this also was exactly the same case with me. Then I realized I'm putting excessive wear on more delicate parts that are more expensive to replace and I can also speed match the gear very quickly so it would also not be an issue to react to a brake failure.

I still don't cruise, but that's just preference. I no longer do engine braking though, I just slow down until just before the gear is too high for the speed and drop one more gear so there's no engine braking just natural progression and then neutral to roll to the stop.

Has anyone put on/install arm rest for auto? Its kinda vital for me.

What are these white stuff? How to remove them? Wiping with wet cloth doesn't seem to work.

This post has been edited by danielcmugen: Oct 17 2015, 04:36 PM


Attached thumbnail(s)

thinking to change my standard rim to R3 rim. Does it void the warranty?

head to detailing car care subtopic. i sure sifu thr might know how to advice on this

our speakers bass not that good eh?

my bass & treble settings all +7, listening volume around 7~10. The volume is loud la, but the bass no feel.

EDIT: Btw anyone can explain what's DSP under Audio settings in the radio? The options are either Front or Passenger btw.

This post has been edited by LordDenning: Oct 18 2015, 05:27 AM

To get a decent bass you must put the speaker balance to center. If fwd speaker only cannot because it is a small speaker only.

Try using some plastic dressing... They sell it at auto detailing shops, they're used to prevent plastic from deteriorating in the sun. This is not dirty, it's dry plastic.

These come in a spray bottle and have UV protection, it also leaves a shiny finish on the plastic.

Hi, wonder where can test drive iriz in shah alam klang area? Doing survey rite now to replace my old saga lmst.

yep my other settings are all center balanced. Left/Right & Forward/Rear settings that is.

Only this DSP i tak faham.. It has Front/Passenger. So want to understand more on this function. But Manual no explanation of it at all.
Currently using Passenger for this DSP as it has an overall nicer balance to the sound compared to Front..