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 LYN Proton Saga/Iswara Driver's Thread! V28, Keep on Keeping on!

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Albert B
post Jun 11 2017, 09:30 PM

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QUOTE(tzxsean @ Jun 11 2017, 09:02 PM)
Hi guys,

my Saga's alarm goes off when i use the remote key to open/close the door ..
but no problem when i insert the key to do it manually ..

Can any sifu here tell me what are the possible issues? Car battery? Car alarm? Remote battery?

Thanks in advance ..
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The alarm should only sound when you lock AND there is a door or bonnet or boot sensor detecting as open or not fully closed. This will show in the instrument panel symbol.

Does the alarm sound when you BOTH lock and unlock using the remote? That would be a deeper fault.

Should not be remote battery or car battery. If car battery low charge your starter will not operate.
tzxsean
post Jun 11 2017, 09:53 PM

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QUOTE(Albert B @ Jun 11 2017, 09:30 PM)
The alarm should only sound when you lock AND there is a door or bonnet or boot sensor detecting as open or not fully closed.  This will show in the instrument panel symbol.

Does the alarm sound when you BOTH lock and unlock using the remote? That would be a deeper fault.

Should not be remote battery or car battery.  If car battery low charge your starter will not operate.
*
thanks for your feedback ..

i retried again and i realised that the alarm only goes off for several beeps before went silent ..

it only happened after I went back to home from petrol station ...

somehow i realised that the bonnet was the cause of this problem ..

however, i have not opened my bonnet for quite some time ..

no idea wad happened and resulted in this hassle

anyway, thank god that no more issue now ..

p/s: I did noticed that there was a bunch of dried leaves in the gap of the bonnet ..

This post has been edited by tzxsean: Jun 11 2017, 09:54 PM
hawk1lo
post Jun 12 2017, 12:06 AM

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QUOTE(Kbbteoh @ Jun 4 2017, 01:13 AM)
add extra ground cable at the back of your meter, Temperature gauge will be back to normal. Lmst had this problem, is normal. Unless your both radiator and air cond fan not working.
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hmm so its a meter problem? i ll look at it when i have access to the dashboard, thanks!
Kbbteoh
post Jun 12 2017, 08:12 PM

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QUOTE(hawk1lo @ Jun 12 2017, 12:06 AM)
hmm so its a meter problem? i ll look at it when i have access to the dashboard, thanks!
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Not really meter problem, something related to electric current flow in the meter ground wire (aka earth wire).
Kbbteoh
post Jun 12 2017, 11:10 PM

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QUOTE(Albert B @ Jun 11 2017, 09:09 PM)
The page from Haynes is attached. (It is for UK version of the Iswara, not sure if it is same as ours).
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but seems that lmst had lower ride height compare to 1st batch iswara right ?
Kbbteoh
post Jun 12 2017, 11:59 PM

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kyb and apm absorber, which are harder ? harder better for cornering right ?
Albert B
post Jun 13 2017, 06:33 PM

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QUOTE(Kbbteoh @ Jun 12 2017, 11:59 PM)
kyb and apm absorber, which are harder ? harder better for cornering right ?
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It is generally understood that harder suspension gives better handling, grip etc.

Until I watched this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hGZRairqHNI

I have gone over his calculations and logic; they seemed to be correct.

This post has been edited by Albert B: Jun 13 2017, 06:37 PM
Albert B
post Jun 13 2017, 06:36 PM

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QUOTE(Kbbteoh @ Jun 12 2017, 11:10 PM)
but seems that lmst had lower ride height compare to 1st batch iswara right ?
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Not sure; however if you look into the files in the "Part Price lists" in page 1 of this thread, you will find that the suspension parts & springs are different for LMST and the Iswara.

The LMST have a lower ground clearance as specified in the owners manual.

So it could be true that the LMST have lower ride.
Kbbteoh
post Jun 13 2017, 07:32 PM

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QUOTE(Albert B @ Jun 13 2017, 06:36 PM)
Not sure; however if you look into the files in the "Part Price lists" in page 1 of this thread, you will find that the suspension parts & springs are different for LMST and the Iswara.

The LMST have a lower ground clearance as specified in the owners manual.

So it could be true that the LMST have lower ride.
*
the file seem to be deleted. the file doesnt found in the link given.
Albert B
post Jun 13 2017, 10:10 PM

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QUOTE(Kbbteoh @ Jun 13 2017, 07:32 PM)
the file seem to be deleted. the file doesnt found in the link given.
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You did not try the mirror sites just below it?
kuang85
post Jun 14 2017, 02:34 PM

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Hi,sifu
I want ask regarding my 1990 saga auto, the day my foreman friend adjusted the rpm. Now the engine seems quite a bit, but when aircond is on and free gear; the engine is vibrating. It becomes normal if turn off aircond.
So, the rpm should adjust to higher or lower like now?
Kbbteoh
post Jun 14 2017, 05:59 PM

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QUOTE(Albert B @ Jun 13 2017, 10:10 PM)
You did not try the mirror sites just below it?
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thank you so much, i didnt realised mirror link is just below. the price show is original from proton or from other factory price ?
hawk1lo
post Jun 14 2017, 06:43 PM

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QUOTE(kuang85 @ Jun 14 2017, 03:34 PM)
Hi,sifu
I want ask regarding my 1990 saga auto, the day my foreman friend adjusted the rpm. Now the engine seems quite a bit, but when aircond is on and free gear; the engine is vibrating. It becomes normal if turn off aircond.
So, the rpm should adjust to higher or lower like now?
*
in this condition i think you can tune the idle rpm to higher a bit (around 1k) to compensate for the vibration during aircond on, for manual car i adjust this, not sure autos got any different.
kuang85
post Jun 15 2017, 02:21 PM

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QUOTE(hawk1lo @ Jun 14 2017, 06:43 PM)
in this condition i think you can tune the idle rpm to higher a bit (around 1k)  to compensate for the vibration during aircond on, for manual car i adjust this, not sure autos got any different.
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Last time it was tune to 1k rpm like that. But the day my friend say the engine a bit noisy and tune it lower a bit.
So, I also not sure whether which one is correct. Anyway, thanks for your info.
darjana
post Jun 15 2017, 05:05 PM

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mine was noisy and vibrating coz the aircond valve something is spoilt n kept shut. once replaced, now ok already.
SUSrazhar
post Jun 15 2017, 08:31 PM

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how to water tight my iswara lmst 2004? water entered in thru windows and the bonnet...

This post has been edited by razhar: Jun 15 2017, 08:32 PM
Albert B
post Jun 15 2017, 09:10 PM

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QUOTE(Kbbteoh @ Jun 14 2017, 05:59 PM)
thank you so much, i didnt realised mirror link is just below. the price show is original from proton or from other factory price ?
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As I was not involved in the compilation of the document, I am unable to comment on that.
fortuner11
post Jun 17 2017, 10:21 AM

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During early morning cold engine drive, when I step in the clutch (Disengage the transmission) the RPM will go slightly higher a bit.

What is this related to?

If engine is warm, no problem the RPM will just come down when I clutch in.

(Both scenario, during clutch disengage, no throttle is pressed) .


Albert B
post Jun 17 2017, 02:22 PM

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QUOTE(fortuner11 @ Jun 17 2017, 10:21 AM)
During early morning cold engine drive, when I step in the clutch (Disengage the transmission) the RPM will go slightly higher a bit.

What is this related to?

If engine is warm, no problem the RPM will just come down when I clutch in.

(Both scenario, during clutch disengage, no throttle is pressed) .
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The engine normally drives the gearbox until you declutch.
All the gears on the countershaft will be rotating and meshing
with the gears on the main shaft. These gears on the mainshaft
will be free-wheeling , ready for the synchroniser to engage as
required. The gears are dipped in lubricating oil which will
be churned up into the meshing teeth of the rotating gears.
All these meshing, freewheeling in oil consumes energy which
is dissipated as heat.

When the engine is cold, the gearbox lubricant is also cold and
is more viscous. So it consumes more energy in the free-wheeling
and meshing. The amount of energy involved has a noticeable
effect on the idling power of the engine.

When you declutch, all these are removed from the equation, so
the idle speed rises.

UPDATE: The description above is true for rear wheel drive gearbox;
the Iswara gearbox is slightly different in that not all the gears are
in constant mesh, only 1st & 2nd gears are. The main shaft and
countershaft both are mixture of free-wheeling and constant meshing
gears. Those in constant mesh will be churning up oil.

This post has been edited by Albert B: Jun 17 2017, 07:27 PM
Kbbteoh
post Jun 18 2017, 12:06 PM

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QUOTE(Albert B @ Jun 15 2017, 09:10 PM)
As I was not involved in the compilation of the document, I am unable to comment on that.
*
anyway thank you so much !

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