it has very minor leak at the timing belt place. but the boss of shop says at this time, no nid to do anything as there is vy minimal leak and during testing, there was no drip. so he just changed the oil filter and topup alittle bit petronas oil and ask me come after 1000km.

I feel my braking seems a bit unbalanced.
Right after my brake service last time, I feel the brake is very balanced on all four wheel.
Now I find it is as if more braking is on the front than the back, and need to press brake pedal harder to stop at traffic light.
Also, my rear brake and handbrake seems a bit less effective. During slope going upwards, if I pull my handbrake to full I can still feel my car slipping backwards. And once I parked on a small incline front facing higher gradient, the car slipped back after parked.
Is the handbrake tension need adjustment or drum brake issues?
I remember my drum shoe was changed during entire brake service.

so sad, my aircon spoil again. already spent >RM900 last year, changing compressor what not, refurbished......

now blow hot air again =(

Greetings everyone. I have some issue with my car as listed below.

1. The car steering rattles during idle. Idle is set at around 800 with aircond on and 1000 off. Changed engine mounting 2 years ago.

2. The radiator fan spins all the time. Probably previous mechanic removed the thermostat and keep the fan on all the time. (probably not related) Or is there any other reason for this? If the thermostat is removed, how much do I need to spend on making the fan run normally again. This always on behaviour caused the engine to take a while to warm up during cold start.

3.The brake gives different feeling when being pressed. Sometime soft, sometime abit harder to press.

4. The car is very old. Nearly 30 years already with mileage clocking at 747000km (as attached ). Other the the usual component replacement eg, timing belt, plugs, etc, is there any particular items/components that I need to replace/service?

Thanks in advance.



This post has been edited by Exa_Bytez: May 6 2017, 09:15 AM

1. Not sure about this.

2. If the fan runs even when car is started with cold engine,
then it has nothing to do with the thermostat (the one at the
manifold). The probable causes are below, need to check to
narrow down the cause:
- a) failed temperature switch at the bottom of the radiator
- b) jammed relay in the fuse box
- c) the mechanic shorted the temperature switch or fixed a
constant 12V supply to the fan to make it run all the time.

3. Better have the master pump checked at the workshop.

4. At that kind of mileage, probably the car would have been
through many cycles of equipment replacements and overhauls.
Starter motor, fuel pump, water pump, clutch, all have been changed?

This post has been edited by Albert B: May 6 2017, 12:48 PM


Attached thumbnail(s)

Thank you for the detailed explanation. Will check it later. As for the car maintenance history, it is not well known since i took this car from a relative. What I know is that the engine has been replaced , and top overhauled before.

I also have issue with ficd. For my car, I noticed that it have denso ficd (184600) installed by previous owner. The problem is, adjusting the knob on it yield very small rpm increase per rotation. I need to do 20 turns ccw to get noticeable increase (not sure if it's placebo) in rpm. Is it normal? I have tested the connection between compressor and ground as well as the ficd itself by connecting it directly with 12v source and it seems to be in a working order.



2. Do I need to do some carb cleaning? If yes, is spraying it with carb cleaner suffice? Also attached below is the air filter. Would like to know if it needs changing.



This post has been edited by Exa_Bytez: May 9 2017, 12:40 PM

Should not be 20 turns to get a response. I am not sure about your FICD,
but usually it uses engine vacuum actuator to press the throttle. You can
observe its workings with someone switching the air-cond ON & OFF
and see if it reaches the throttle lever. On Iswaras, the adjustment screw
is quite small, the length won't be much more than 20 threads. (Probably
your FICD works in different way).

The air filter is quite dirty, change it.

This post has been edited by Albert B: May 9 2017, 11:42 AM


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I dont think my car is equipped with the vacuum actuator you showed. Saga 1989 with engine replaced to 12 valve. My carburetor is the old one (aisan 28-32) with only af and idle screw adjustment



This post has been edited by Exa_Bytez: May 9 2017, 12:41 PM

I am not familiar with this FICD, I think it is similar to those
in the following links:

http://www.ben9166.com/2011/09/diy-install...for-better.html

http://www.diytacra.com/2010/11/ficd-fast-...rol-device.html

http://wirahybrid.blogspot.my/2013/07/an-i...rkshop-diy.html

It seems to work by altering the air intake at the manifold to control rpm.
This method is new to me.

This post has been edited by Albert B: May 9 2017, 03:01 PM

It turns out the knob is loose. Managed to turn it using plier but no improvement. I think the hose connections are wrong after comparing it with others' diagram. Anyway, do you know from where the hose to the egr valve should be connected? It seems that mine is connected to a metal rod underneath.


Any idea why the mechanics disconnect this thing?


Thank you in advance.

This post has been edited by Exa_Bytez: May 10 2017, 09:45 AM

Your intake manifold has some kind of device in place of a
thermostatic vacuum switching valve (TVSV), and there is
an extra vacuum hose apparently connected to this thing but
has been disconnected. If connected, I can't make out what
function it has.

The EGR valve is connected to the metal pipe which then
comes out at the other side to the TVSV.


Attached thumbnail(s)

You're right. For my engine, at that location, there is 2 thermostatic valve I think where one(with the green cap) is connected to the EGR. Instead of having tvsv, i think mine is separated to thermostatic valves. There are two metal tubes not connected. I reckon this should be connected to tvsv. I have some issue with cold starting the car (rough idle). Is the absent of tvsv the possible cause?



This post has been edited by Exa_Bytez: May 11 2017, 01:21 PM

It could be they have separated the TVSV like you said; I am
not familiar with this version of the Saga engine fittings. I looked
around the net and found some similar photos (see below) from
these sites:

http://z4.invisionfree.com/Saga_Iswara_Club/ar/t16144.htm
http://www.zerotohundred.com/newforums/sho...ad.php?t=426981

Vacuum line diagrams are not publicly available for the Proton,
so far I found only this site but the diagrams do not seem to be
applicable to the Saga. (Member Tham have traced the lines
in postings here some pages back)

http://alflash.com.ua/Vacuum.htm

That unplugged hose could be letting in air which may affect the
air/fuel ratio. What happens if you plug it back? Rough idle could
have many causes; it is possible to be from those open vacuum lines.
Even my Iswara has it but only for a minute or so from cold engine
start, despite a fully functional autochoke.

Maybe the sifus here can help shed some light on this.






Attached thumbnail(s)

Which mechanic did you go to ?

That is very cheap. Did it include gear oil as well ? Not cheap these
days.

They usually give you Exedy, Asco or the Proton original, which I was
told is made in Korea.

Asco's disc pad is bit thin, I was told.

This shop, Hy Auto Service, at Jln SS 3/31 quoted me at least $520.

He said if I brought my own parts, his labour charge would be $200,
but no warranty. I think gear oil will be extra.

Anyway, I went to AME Auto and bought an Exedy (Daikin) clutch set
(disc + diaphragm) for $145, release bearing (Koyo) $25, flywheel
oii seal I think $28 and two driveshaft oil seals for $8 each.

Simon, the boss, said Proton's cost $200.

Two one-liter bottles of Autosol 85W-90 gear oil, $15 each.

Total $244.

So if you took his parts and gearoil, that is a very low price.

Thanks for the link. The unplugged hose is plugged by a screw. I'll try connecting the hose and see the effect. For the rough idle, I'll try carb and egr cleaning first and report here.

I was quote RM1000 for full overhaul. Normal price for full overhaul?

Hi,
My LMST model has got water inside the rear light cluster. Is it easy to remove the unit and drain out the water?
I found this advice from the internet 'Take out the light and then the bulbs. As soon as you take off the bulbs the fog inside the light starts to vanish leaving water drops. Turn the light upside down allowing all the excess water to pass out through the bulb holders. Now, put the headlight in direct sunlight with the crystal facing the ground and the gasket facing upwards so that whatever water still remains inside evaporates.
It took around 6 hours for water to completely evaporate
Then i use the silicon gel to seal the gasket '
I looked up Albert's answer : According to Haynes manual, after removing the nuts, the light unit is held in place by self-adhesive sealing compound.
So got sticky stuff in between the light unit & body panel'

Keng

Include parts?

Only labor charge. Now my carburetor throttle seems faulty. How much to replace it?