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 LYN Proton Saga/Iswara Driver's Thread! V28, Keep on Keeping on!

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feralee
post Aug 17 2015, 07:16 PM

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QUOTE(Quantum_thinking @ Aug 13 2015, 10:47 PM)
Today the mechanic shop inform me a few things:

1. Distributor in the engine is leaking oil. It does not impact other engine component. Hence, not planning on repairing it.

2. Power sterling pump is leaking and it is impacting the alternator. In long run, it will still cause the alternator to fail. It is recommended to fix it. True?

3. Air con compressor confirm faulty. I prefer to replace it. How much it is gonna cost? Last time i learnt it is RM900.  shakehead.gif  shakehead.gif  shakehead.gif
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Distributor u can consider change only when u have difficulties to start when stall.

Mine was leak till inside, so replace O ring also no use.

Changed mine around RM390
Quantum_thinking
post Aug 18 2015, 08:12 AM

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QUOTE(feralee @ Aug 17 2015, 07:16 PM)
Distributor u can consider change only when u have difficulties to start when stall.

Mine was leak till inside, so replace O ring also no use.

Changed mine around RM390
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As in having difficulty in starting when start the engine? My car sometime start the engine, but very weak and tend to turn off itself at first attempt. The 2nd attempt only can stable.
feralee
post Aug 18 2015, 10:32 AM

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QUOTE(Quantum_thinking @ Aug 18 2015, 08:12 AM)
As in having difficulty in starting when start the engine? My car sometime start the engine, but very weak and tend to turn off itself at first attempt. The 2nd attempt only can stable.
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Yes.

If very freq, better get it change.

Me when driving, suddenly will stall. Then need to take long time- bout 5 minutes to get it start.

If u buy, dont take those taiwan or recon unit - wont last long but is cheap around RM1xx
Quantum_thinking
post Aug 18 2015, 01:15 PM

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QUOTE(feralee @ Aug 18 2015, 10:32 AM)
Yes.

If very freq, better get it change.

Me when driving, suddenly will stall. Then need to take long time- bout 5 minutes to get it start.

If u buy, dont take those taiwan or recon unit - wont last long but is cheap around RM1xx
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Wallet hurts.......

What is the primary causes for all these leakages? Rough driving by previous owners?
feralee
post Aug 18 2015, 01:23 PM

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QUOTE(Quantum_thinking @ Aug 18 2015, 01:15 PM)
Wallet hurts.......

What is the primary causes for all these leakages? Rough driving by previous owners?
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mmmm
wear and tear?

Mine lasted since 2003 - new car, changed it in 2014.

Quantum_thinking
post Aug 18 2015, 06:38 PM

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QUOTE(feralee @ Aug 18 2015, 01:23 PM)
mmmm
wear and tear?

Mine lasted since 2003 - new car, changed it in 2014.
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It is an old car. Nothing much to say.

Anyway, when you mean stall, what u mean by stall? When driving halfway then engine turn off by itself?
feralee
post Aug 19 2015, 07:24 AM

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QUOTE(Quantum_thinking @ Aug 18 2015, 06:38 PM)
It is an old car. Nothing much to say.

Anyway, when you mean stall, what u mean by stall? When driving halfway then engine turn off by itself?
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Yup
Halfway, engine off.

Then very hard crank to get it start.

Albert B
post Aug 19 2015, 11:58 AM

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QUOTE(feralee @ Aug 19 2015, 07:24 AM)
Yup
Halfway, engine off.

Then very hard crank to get it start.
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I had this misfire/stall problem too. Engine started normally, during driving the misfire
start to happen at around 1 to 3 km. Usually after warm up, it goes back to normal.
One time totally stalled at around 6 km, waited out a hour or so, everything back to normal.

Causes:

1) Moisture during washing of engine compartment. Now I wrap the distributor in plastic shopping
bag before washing.

2) Moisture from outdoor parking where dew condensed after cold night PLUS spark plug gap too
big (about 1 mm). Regapped to 0.7 mm, so far so good. Note: sometimes the spare part shop sell
you BP5ES - 11 which is pre-gapped at 1.1 mm, may cause this problem.

That was my experience, may or may not be same problem as yours. My distributor
is 14 years old.

This post has been edited by Albert B: Aug 19 2015, 12:05 PM


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Quantum_thinking
post Aug 19 2015, 12:37 PM

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Guys, my car tend to give out the "eee...." sound after turn off engine for hours. When it rained, the sound gets louder. After 300m driving, all sound just disappeared.

Timing belt need to change?
cloudwan
post Aug 19 2015, 12:44 PM

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QUOTE(Quantum_thinking @ Aug 19 2015, 12:37 PM)
Guys, my car tend to give out the "eee...." sound after turn off engine for hours. When it rained, the sound gets louder. After 300m driving, all sound just disappeared.

Timing belt need to change?
*
U sure the sound coming from the timing belt? Usually seems more like from the alternator belt or fan belt etc..
Quantum_thinking
post Aug 19 2015, 01:29 PM

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QUOTE(cloudwan @ Aug 19 2015, 12:44 PM)
U sure the sound coming from the timing belt? Usually seems more like from the alternator belt or fan belt etc..
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not sure though. I'll get the mechanic to change the belts then.

This kind of situation means the belts are not in good condition and may snap any moments?
TSQuazacolt
post Aug 19 2015, 01:52 PM

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QUOTE(Quantum_thinking @ Aug 19 2015, 12:37 PM)
Guys, my car tend to give out the "eee...." sound after turn off engine for hours. When it rained, the sound gets louder. After 300m driving, all sound just disappeared.

Timing belt need to change?
*
check belt tensions/adjust as needed, or tensioner bearing, and belt conditions.
Albert B
post Aug 19 2015, 02:18 PM

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QUOTE(Quantum_thinking @ Aug 19 2015, 12:37 PM)
Guys, my car tend to give out the "eee...." sound after turn off engine for hours. When it rained, the sound gets louder. After 300m driving, all sound just disappeared.

Timing belt need to change?
*
The 'eeee' sound is, as members here replied, the air-cond/water pump/power steering
belt slipping, likely due to moisture. As it warms up, the sound goes away, probably the
moisture has dried up. Sometime you will get the sound again if you drive through a
puddle of water which splashes into the engine compartment. As members stated,
inspect the belts for re-tensioning or if the belts need to be replaced.

It is unlikely the sound of timing belt slip because for this to happen, most probably
the engine valves and pistons would have been damaged.

It is also good to know if your timing belt is due for replacement; do you know
when it was last changed? If not, and if you are into DIY, you can also inspect it
yourself by removing the plastic cover (To open, unscrew 3 bolts, use swivel head
socket spanner due to space restriction, taking care the rubber seals might drop off).


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zedyll
post Aug 20 2015, 01:18 PM

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QUOTE(sinister_sid @ Aug 13 2015, 08:38 PM)
Hi guys .
Hehe just dropping by .
Just to spread some poison , one of our members yewwing saga just done a 4g92 swap running a weber dcnf carb . Enjoy tongue.gif
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how many mountings need to mod for 4g92? Interested as well. drool.gif
neo1027
post Aug 21 2015, 02:55 PM

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Hi all,

I have a 1999 Iswara 1.3, and first time posting at a car club and have a few long questions that I would like to ask, please bear with me for being so noob. notworthy.gif smile.gif

1. My driver seat is getting uncomfortable. It is twisted as when I sit inside I can feel that my right upper body is more forward, and the left side of my hip is lower that the right. Making my backache, and my body difficult to balance when making corner. Any recommendation of good cushion refurbish workshop around Taman Connaught area? And if there's no fix but to replace, what kind of price range am I looking at for a replacement/new seat?

2.1 My headlights are very dim although the bulbs are quite bright, in roads of which normal cars would have a visible beams in front of the car, mine can't be seen. The accessory shop I usually goes to says that the problem is that my headlights are not original, the lens can't spread the lights nicely. He recommend that I replace my headlights with Bosch's for Iswara, ard 200++ each. Anyone have this issue? Can I take the guy's words?
2.2 For practical and aesthetic purposes, I would like to add on fog lights. What are the types of fog lights I can choose from? I am interested in getting Cibies, so far I found Hellas, again for 200++. Reasonable? Also, will fog lights drain a lot of power from the battery?

3.1 After so many years, my car's tinting are now clear as crystal. I was quoted, depending on heat resistant and quality: 400+,600+ and 1K+ for tinting all the car windows. Are these too expensive? I read elsewhere that others got their tinting done for below 300.
3.2 Price to replace windscreen?

4. The stock engine for my Iswara is inconsistent, sometimes it feels weak, sometimes it feels quite powerful (acceleration very fast, feels eager to be driven); sometimes it even depends on the weather (occasionally during cold days the performance feels better). The main thing that bothers me a lot is that the car is unable to quickly accelerate when it is already cruising at around 3-4th gear, when I stepped down on the accelerator it makes noise but the acceleration is not obvious, making it difficult and dangerous for me to, for example: overtake slow cars from the middle lane on highways. For comparison sake, I can't keep up with kancils on the highway (maybe it's normal? I dunno.). What can I do to increase, or at least restore the original performance of the car without totally overhauling the engine and burn holes on my wallet? Edit: Also, any reliable performance workshop can recommend?

Thanks! rclxms.gif

This post has been edited by neo1027: Aug 21 2015, 03:11 PM
TSQuazacolt
post Aug 22 2015, 12:17 AM

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QUOTE(neo1027 @ Aug 21 2015, 02:55 PM)
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

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1) could be far, but:
https://www.google.com.my/maps/place/VIP+Se...fb9ef23a4?hl=en

2) can ask proton part stockists, like CK wong/CNT auto/Vanli, all at Jalan Ipoh area.

3) you get what you paid for.
for good price vs performance, i would recommend huper optik from rainbow kepong:
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Rainbow-Audi...fo&tab=overview

4) have you modded exhaust? is it leaking? de-carbon your carb? what about engine oil? servicing on time? check spark plug/plug cables, air filer, fuel filter, air fuel ratio on the carburetor /ignition timings on the distributor.

consider using better engine/gear oils. your car manual i assume? can try out redline MTL/MT85.
engine oil can choose from reputable API SN certified ones, and if your engine isn't leaking/having seals or piston ring issue, having excessive emission /exhaust smoke such as grey or blueish smoke, and feels oily if you place your hand near the exhaust (obviously not too near so you'd get hurt from the heat), you may consider a lighter viscosity engine oil - xw30 (ignore the value before w)
lantohsay
post Aug 27 2015, 04:10 PM

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Esp to the Sifu2,

Got iswara 1.3 A/B manual 2000.
Problem: high fuel mileage like $20/= for 30km. Have sent to proton centre to service few times, neighbour mechanic etc - no improve - chg filter, spark plug, tune&tune again (this was a few years back, fuel=$10/40km) - then just let it be because repair not cheap and since use nearby only.

Now think getting worse by every trip - think spark plug more and more dirty due to petrol not burn properly. So, how to solve problem once and for all, w/o burn pocket because car is old already ?!

Banyak2 terima kasih.

p/s car last service (tune, chg engine oil, oil filter) last Nov'14.

This post has been edited by lantohsay: Aug 27 2015, 04:11 PM
al_madd
post Aug 27 2015, 09:14 PM

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Im using saga 1985...

Im change to rim 15...using it for a year..but the problem is the car is so bumpy...how i want to improve it?
Is it change absorber will improve it or change to 13/14 rim??
Azrage
post Aug 27 2015, 11:12 PM

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hi, last week i have just balancing my tyre. Recently there is this "wung wung" sound(Like you blow bottle those sound) appear when i drive above 80km/h. Any idea what is the problem? Tyre? Bearing?

When the sound appear, not dare to drive faster.

Thx
lantohsay
post Aug 28 2015, 03:27 PM

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om mali on mali ..

carb be good. carb be good. carb be good.

yes! yes! yes! yes! yes! yes!

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