haha i just want to know ma... spend so much on lube and don't have anything objectively to tell about it, i think would be an even greater waste


btw, there's a video of a buggy running without oil sump across a desert - aka that engine is being subjected to sand.
that's pretty fucking impressive imho.

however my take is, they did not give a before/after image (microscopic level if possible) comparison of various engine parts. (as you said basically)

they also do not have anything official to certify the oil? maybe too overloaded with zinc? (good luck on modern day emission test/cat cons lol)
i mean hey, if your oil can run with sand, and uh, don't even need to have an oil sump for more oil, you SHOULD be passing your certifications with damn fucking flying colors, right? maybe winning nobel prizes in the process?

wrong post

This post has been edited by goohtj: Jun 18 2015, 02:39 PM

good quality/reputable SN EO are typically rated to last more than 15k km (API using 10k miles)/6 months to 1 year, while that's rarely ever heard of during SM times and almost never for SL.

additive, btw.
and despite the less friction reduction additives, it doesn't dictate that much on VII/detergents.
in fact, more stringent requirement on low SAPS etc would also contribute (even if minor) on an EO longevity/environment concerns.

and considering environment is the concern for newer certifications, having a longer OCI (which is the end goal) would also be able to address that
while of course, maintaining the protection an engine requires.

Need advice from sifus,

Planning to get Torco SR-1 for my next engine Oil change.

Driving a 1.5 Wira, is it a good idea? 3 or 4 quarts?

HOw about oil filter? Any particular to note?

Thanks

This post has been edited by I_R_NIC: Jun 25 2015, 11:41 AM

3.3-3.5liters, make sure it's at middle mark between full and low after pour in and heat up engine to operating temperature.

oil filter use back proton ori, rm7-10 per piece depending on discount/quantity you buy.

HI Experts,

im using Honda Fully Sync 0w-20. but now Honda no longer selling it in 4L bottle. only if u do service in their center, they take from barrel.

any advise on other brand similar to this? Honda selling this on RM128 only.

Thanks.

Synthetic, not synchronize.

many reputable brands such as motul or amsoil offers such viscosity and available in Malaysia as well.

may consider checking out google.
as they are performance/boutique EO brands, pricing will be more expensive.

Recently I've been using Tesco Brand Fully Syn oil for 2 years, sometimes in between switch with Castro Edge and Shell Helix Ultra Fully syn on Myvi, till date the Tesco Fully Syn oil based on my experience it does not have significant different with Shell and Castrol after 10k km.

Its hard to find review on these Tesco oil, did anyone actually tried the Tesco brand oil to share their experience?

wanna try tesco brand, went last week, no offer . total semi @rm89... dunno this week got offer?

So if I open half bottle can keep long?

If I remember correctly, the Tesco Brand semi syn is offering at RM45 for 4L about 2-3weeks ago... I just bought 2 home will try out on next change.

afaik after opening seal, shelf life is typically within 1-2 years. of course store it in cool/dry (emphasis on this as you do not want moisture contaminating the oil) place without direct sunlight contact

Hi to all sifu, I'm using MIT diaqueen sp3 ATF oil . Can I noe which other brand selling sp3 spec ATF oil here besides MIT diaqueen n proton sp3?

Caltex ATF-J, Motul ATF 1A

These 2 will b better than MIT one?

Sifus,
Which type if EO is good for my Alnera ? Thanks and kindly advice.

yea, especially Motul ATF 1A.
about rm50+/liter

Whatever semi/fully syn oil you can afford that has an API stamp of approval

Fuuuuuuuh.. 1A.. that's expensive like hell

Caltex is in the 43 or so already IINM, being semi synthetic somemore.

Proton SP3 is less than half price (rm20-25/liter iinm) of motul ATF 1A, however around 5-10k km need to drain already as shifts feel like shit and the fluid drain out is brown/black ish with heavy burnt smell

ATF 1A so far i haven't drain it, however with 2 cars post 10-20k ish km and shifts are still spot on is a good enough justification for it being worth the price of ~50/liter