There you go, I've scanned the manual. Just download it from the dropbox link below.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/hi4gni9fsrg90te/M...20List.pdf?dl=0

5w30 on API SJ, awesome bro! much thanks for the scans
+/- xw10 viscosity is imho fine in most modern engine applications

i'll pin it up first page for other myvi owners reference.

Thanks bro, hope it helps others too on this.

Sorry - I forgot clarify I'm using the Honda 0W20 fully syn oil on my Myvi.

I've used 0W20 on my Nissan but it wasn't that great cuz I'm a heavy footer. At the top end the engine response was lacking like it it was running on water. I don't know how to explain that in better terms.

Anyway if you're tracking the engine oil temp and pressure, you'll see that thinner oils run hotter when redlined and pressure is surprisingly higher when revved hard. You're better off with slightly thicker oils with good a base and efficient temp additives.

Personal experience on the Sepang track in a non-standard Wira NA :

- Pennzoil highest recorded temperature was 160 deg Celsius. Which is bad. Changed out the oil due to poor engine performance right after that track day.

- Rock oil maintained a constant 120 deg Celsius no matter how much I revved. Lasted another 1k km after that before I had to change the oil out.

- Ravenol highest recorded temperature was 130 deg Celsius too. Lasted 1k km after that track day.

- Lastly Adnoc Image highest recorded temp was 140 deg Celsius.

All using 5W30 weight and all fully syn. So just by looking at my 4 case studies above, the more expensive the oil the better it is for hard revving drivers with hot engines. (I guess)

highly unscientific I know - but instead of throwing around figures and facts at each other why not just share experiences? But the condition to this sharing is that the oil is minimally TUV or API certified. Otherwise the result from the oil may not be consistent.

So far mine is still okay after few days of using it. I'll see how does the engine feels during on PLUS highway when I go back to hometown this weekend.

Hi bro, I plan to try Rock Oil for my next oil change. What would you recommend?

Feeling is very unpredictable. Do you have meters or gauges to monitor?


Just use whatever you can afford la. Go fully syn though.

Yup going fully synthethic

klang area any recomended spare parts shop or workshop to change reasonable oil price. Most of them quoting at retail price, some selling local bottled brand.
Saw tesco selling Shell Fully Syn at rm145 so does Castrol Fully Syn, Mobil 3000 at 135 (5L).
any one come across fukuoka brand oil? stated imported from Japan which in tin condition.


This post has been edited by smon80: May 29 2015, 08:00 PM

Do not insult Perodua semi syn because that 'piece of crap' has kept my 7 years old stock ezi myvi running passed 200,000 km with all the appropriate abuse it can get.



Haha Quaza poor you macha has to deal with forum warriors all the time.

Off topic but Bro iszo, garage mane yg reliable nak buat forged 4EFTE?

may i know what is the market rate price for labour charge on changing engine oil? engine oil n filter on our own.

If simple oil change without suction, then can still get for around rm15. If with oil suction, rm30 max.

my place still remain RM10. (Bahau N9)

Yeah, I actually have to agree with the P2 oil, the Petronas oils are actually quite decently good. Value for money. As for where to do forged 4EFTE.. I have no idea what that even is. Corolla ke?

Usually about 10-15 bucks

Me too only this week knew about it. Year 1999 production on Starlet GT and glanza V only but they put it in corolla too for aftermarket upgrade. Engine worth putting high grade eo. 1.3 turbo.

with GST, expect in the 15-25 range (or even possibly more!) depending on workshop or even your car model (people here tend to chop higher brand/model cars)

Normally it will be between RM15 to RM30 depending on workshops

meant to reply this sooner, however work lately has been pretty crazy with no signs of it getting better

Thanks for sharing

From my experience, on full track Sepang is rather interesting. In general may refer to below Experience/Q&A/UOA sharing
https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...&#entry72742217
I only had Motul 300v 0w20 as that's the only i had for my Sepang experience and considering what it can offer, so far i have no plans on switching out.(there's news of 300V 0w20 bulk going on at zhapalang, if anyone else is interested, do let me know, i'm planning that bulk to execute around end of June)

my experience in general:
- Similar to Izso experience, engine *seems* to detune as afternoon session approaches/heat rises. I am unable to have solid evidence of this as i do not have oil temp sensor. It could very much be my own fatigue resulting in poorer track performance.
No such issue on the road ever, and i believe people who know me enough/seen my videos/postings would know i really trash the car/revs.

- while most people would have oil consumption... my oil levels at sepang would instead increase
suspect due to the viscosity of the oil, and the extreme temperatures the engine go through, it seems like motul's double ester reacts in a way similar to how almost all atf would: expand upon heat.

- while i have no oil temp readings, water temp for the car remained below 50% throughout any given time even in sepang and even after i experienced the supposedly engine "detune".

- i personally believe engine temperature and pressure is not the sole indication of how your engine performs nor how much it was wearing.
so long it's as rev happy as ever and having minimal wear, slightly higher engine temperatures/oil pressure should be acceptable.

Experiences are always appreciated, however if you can further back them with UOA or more solid information, that would be perfect!
in other words, why not both?!
and i wish this will be the future direction for everyone so it wouldn't be just a fan based bias (well, admittedly this could never eliminated completely. such as intel or nvidia vs amd, even when solid numbers are around) or just "oil VERY SMOOTH!" comment.

side note: how would one tell if an oil is really TUV certified? in fact, i don't think a huge majority of engine oil manufacturers bothers with TUV albeit i know that their directories are query-able. (that is the case for electrical appliances/tires anyways)
for API, almost all racing oil are no API certified due to their added additives which will not mean the latest SN environment requirement/concerns.
for one, 300V is NOT API certified

i need your advice for my Honda Civic FD2 5 years old at 150K KM, previously i'm using Liqui Moly Hi-Tech 5W-40 Fully Sync, but due to heavy travel, will clock 10K KM in 2 months, is kinda costly for me to continue use it, so i jump ship back to Honda Original Fully Sync Engine Oil, but i feel the performance and protection is not that good, therefore i jump ship again to Castrol Edge which i brought before GST at 128 for 4L, i assume is kinda good price, after being using for 3k KM, i feel the engine sound is rough and i'm experiencing bad Fuel Consumption, i been recommend by another workshop that maybe i should try using back the Liqui Moly whether it solved my High Fuel Consumption problem or not. Is the Engine Oil really will cost High Fuel Consumption?

so far this is what i have done to try to fix my high Fuel Consumption problem.
1. Clean Throttle Body,
2. Back to Honda Service to do a Hi-Scan(no issue found, and even pay for doing ECU relearn)
3. replaced 02 sensor
4. replaced fuel filter
5. replaced air filter
6. clean fuel injector.
7. replaced spark plug.

but the problem still occur.. i'm having 19-20L / 100KM.. T_T

This post has been edited by invisiblelim: Jun 1 2015, 01:09 PM