This has been discussed way too many times.

Think logically - if such a big supermarket chain was caught selling fake oils and someone sued the company, let's say Exxonmobil sued the supermarket brand for selling fake Mobil1, you think Te5co would have a chance? Worlds 2nd largest company that is cash rich suing a supermarket chain supposedly distributing 'fake' Mobil1 world wide, the damage to Te5co would be huge both financially and reputation wise.

These large supermarket chains get their oils from their European counterparts. How do I know? I work for Exxonmobil. Local distributors are quite annoyed that Te5co and all can sell the oils so cheap but if you look at the local packaging it's different and apparently so is the additive package in the oil. So it's up to you to choose Euro blend or Asia blend Mobil1 when buying.

Heavy oil? xW40 is one of the most widely used viscosities in the whole world. It's only just recently (in the last 5 to 10 years) that cars started focusing a lot on efficiency and tighter tolerances that's why you start seeing xW30 and xW20 oils as a base requirement for cars. Don't compare with countries that require the low viscosity to run optimally la, I'm talking about in general.

SM and SN isn't that big a deal breaker. Look at what Quazacolt has shared in the thread (I think the first page).

Old oil is a possibility. I don't know the Te5co purchasing cycle but since they ship their oils from Europe, it's minimally at least 6 months to 1 year old once it's in the stores locally.

I saw Shell Helix Ultra promotion in Aeon Big for RM159

Euro blend suitable for Malaysia cars?

Yeah why not? It might perhaps wear out faster but that really depends on environment, usage, etc.

Its not a good thing if that's really true. Especially for high compression engines.

The additive package is different no matter how you look at it comparing the AP and EU blends. What the exact differences are, I wouldn't be able to tell you. But the claim is AP blends with our weather and humidity (etc) in mind, so technically the AP blend is better. But that's not saying the EU blend is useless here. It'll still protect your engine but the question is to what extent? So perhaps the AP blend can last 12k km, the EU one maybe no more than 8k before your engine starts feeling sluggish.

It's hard to say. I'm not a chemist so can't really tell you much and even if I were, I'd be contract bound to secrecy even though I work in Exxon.

Recommend for my car is 30 viscosity. There is 5w-40 pure plus and 5w-30 non pure plus. Both priced at$129.

I'm inclined towards 5w-40 cos of pure plus, but is this better for my car when recommended is 5w-30!

Recommend for my car is 30 viscosity. There is 5w-40 pure plus and 5w-30 non pure plus. Both priced at$129.

I'm inclined towards 5w-40 cos of pure plus, but is this better for my car when recommended is 5w-30!

Hi guys,

Between this 2, which 1 is better?

1) Repsol Elite Evolution 5w-40 5L RM159
2) Elf Evolution 900SXR 5w-40 5L RM159
3) Shell Helix Ultra Fully 5w-40 4L RM139

Euro blend suitable for Malaysia cars?

Its not a good thing if that's really true. Especially for high compression engines.

Personally this is my sequence when choosing oil

1. Fully Synthetic
2. Correct viscosity
3. Supposed additive package.

In this case if both the pureplus and non pureplus oils are both FS, I'd just go with the 5W30. Whilst in most cars the 10 difference won't be much, in some more sensitive cars like those internally balanced, lightened, tight tolerance cars, better to stick to the recommended viscosity.

Why not? Long before engine oils start packaging in Asia, they were all imported from Europe or US too. FYI I've been using oils from Tesco/AEON on my 12:1 compression engine for almost 4 years now and it's still running just perfectly fine, no issues whatsoever! Before that for >10yrs I've been using imported oils direct from either Europe or US on my previous cars, also all compression ratio around 10.5-11:1, also all running perfectly healthy despite the very high temps and daily going thru horrendous traffic jams, and often driven very aggressively to red lines. So as long as you buy good reputable oil brands which matches your engine requirement, then it should be just fine.

within +/- xw10 is acceptable to me.
btw 5w-30 is semi synthetic? i dont recall shell bringing lighter viscosity that's priced at 129

if really curious, why not try both!

Personally this is my sequence when choosing oil

1. Fully Synthetic
2. Correct viscosity
3. Supposed additive package.

In this case if both the pureplus and non pureplus oils are both FS, I'd just go with the 5W30. Whilst in most cars the 10 difference won't be much, in some more sensitive cars like those internally balanced, lightened, tight tolerance cars, better to stick to the recommended viscosity.

If given a choice of Semi-Syn #W-30 and Fully Syn #W-40 for the same price, which would you go for?

Edit: Guess the question has already pretty much answered. 

If given a choice of Semi-Syn #W-30 and Fully Syn #W-40 for the same price, which would you go for?

Edit: Guess the question has already pretty much answered. 

personally neither.

if i no matter what have to choose between the 2, then fully.

if the question was xw30 semi syn vs xw50 fully syn, then i may go for xw30 depending on manufacturer viscosity specification and just settle for a shorter OCI.

Because my current car isn't a heavily modified car nor is it turbo charged and is a japanese almost-bullet-proof engine, I'd go for the fully syn 5W40. But if it were my previous modified Wira with high comp setup, balanced internals etc etc  I'd go with the 5W30 mineral and just target to swap it out 5k oci or 6k max.

I actually have a preference for #W30 oils and my engine is also stock but since many of you are using fully im not quite sure what to get..

I actually have a preference for #W30 oils and my engine is also stock but since many of you are using fully im not quite sure what to get..

Check out first page,  0w20 for the maximum butt dyno feel

Mine also stock

Let's talk reality here. Whether I pour 5W30 FS Motul or 5W30 FS Pennzoil in for your car, you're not going to feel a difference between the two since yours is probably a daily driver. Between the two you'll probably feel it in your wallet only. Long term (10 years or more) perhaps you might see the difference in terms of wear and tear parts, but it won't be so significant that it warrants RM300 5W30 Esther based oil changes every 8000km.

So just find the right viscosity, if you can afford FS then go for it, otherwise semi is fine and go with shorter OCI vs FS. Personally 8000km for semi and 10-12k km for FS is pretty reasonable for me. But once the car starts to feel sluggish or your FC starts to get affected, it's time to change oils. Take note of the mileage travelled and just stick with that OCI for future oil changes since it's your cars characteristics.

Wallet takes priority la. Unless you're talking about a race car that you own and drive regularly, then that's a different story.