i need to find best pomen in s.alam or klang area, anyone got any idea where?

Start with stage 1 upgrade stuff. Spend some time on it.

10-40W is thinner (lower viscosity) than 20-50W at same temperature. So, the rest you can figure out. Use the oil recommended by manufacturer, except if your bike is modded. Once modded, you need to trial and error.

On carb jetting, there are some explanation on page 1, I think. Go through that first, and see if you have any questions.
I don't think so...

This one?
Minor mod (increase acceleration)
1. Remove air filter.
2. Reset carburetor air-fuel setting.
3. Set valve tapette to 10 IN and 15 OUT. - RM30 labour charge @ New Bee Hock motor, Penang.
4. Change to 15-40 with 415 chain. - RM100

Stage 1 mod concept covers a lot of stuff, but in essence anything that can be immediately bolted on, or directly swapped out from stock, without additional work to be done to the engine. It is not just about improving performance, but also handling of the vehicle.

- High flow air filter, or removed stock air filter.
- Exhaust
- Lightened wheels, chains and sprockets
- Brake pads, hose
- Engine oil (10W-30)
- Spring, fork oil, monoshock
- Spark plug, plug cable

Stage 2 can be more aggressive of stage 1 mods, require more work on the engines, or adding things:
- Intake+Exhaust port and polish: valve and tappet
- Big bore block + piston kit + carb
- Camshaft
- Crankshaft, jack rod, jack pin etc
- Gearset
- Oil cooler
- Radiator fan
- Weight reduction
- CDI remap

Stage 3 is race preparation, which I don't know a lot about.

HVM jerteh or order online..palex got i think

after market CDI wont do much effect on stock..just removing ur rpm limiter (which i think better for u to stay below 8500 rpm)
reset the carb to get the best air/fuel ratio will increase performance..after u remove the air filter la(or change to aftermarket one eg: K&N)
btw, u stay in kuala terengganu?

stock rim best tire size is 70/90 F and 80/90 R
on 5s 70/90 F and 90/80 R or 100/80 R
go over that size kinda dangerous and wasting rubber

im sorry, but what is 5s?

- High flow air filter, or removed stock air filter.
- Exhaust
- Lightened wheels, chains and sprockets
- Brake pads, hose
- Engine oil (10W-30)
- Spring, fork oil, monoshock
- Spark plug, plug cable

can give me suggestion brand, just put what you believe is the best,
how much the cost will be? estimation is ok

This post has been edited by wady89: Mar 6 2014, 01:39 PM

135lc 5 speed version
the new version with handclutch

ic. meaning that, for lc 4s, its best to stick with its current stock tyre size?

Goin to get my ES 5s soon. This group wl bcme handy for infos. Thanks all for the info sharing.

This post has been edited by MiztaLegendary: Mar 6 2014, 10:06 PM

Hello there,

Anyone can share about the fuel consumption for 135 LC ES (5s)?
Eg. RM ? can go for ? km OR ?km/L

+ How about compare to Y125ZR ?

Thanks for sharing

As some of you are new to this forum, I am only moderating this V18.
I currently do not own any Yamaha LC, so my experience with this bike is limited.
I only own 2 strokes, and knows a thing or two about motorcycle.

If I do not answer your questions, it simply means I do not know. Please be patient, and wait for sifu to reply you.

Air filter can use UNI, or K&N. Not sure how much. Got other high flow ones.
Brake pads got a lot of brand, Elig, Ferodo are some I know. Making sure the pads and disc do not kena oil is the key.
Engine oil can be RM20-50+. Check page one for recommended bike EO.
Fork oil must make sure both side balance. You can use cap ayam RM3, to Motul.
Monoshock Kayaba is pretty good.
Spark plug NGK G-power RM12. Other like Iridium would be expensive around RM50. NGK plug cable about RM30, red color.

These mods above is to let your bike use better parts, and may require some minor setting adjustments such as pilot screw with the installation of high flow air filters. You can easily spend up to RM300~400, and do not get huge improvements.

Stage 2 will really burn your pocket, and that I have no experience.
Need to ask owners like serigala, thianz, crappy123.

yes. the tyres have to match the rim size, not the weight.
those tyres can carry weight, as normal two passengers would weight >120kg, or those penjaja EX5, just imagine.

Looking forward to your membership here.

We talked about this in V17, and many times before.
I think the numbers are like RM8 for 140km like that. In theory, this is a 40 km per liter bike, so at RM8, it should be able to go 160km.
I am sure it can do better if tuned for better fuel efficiency. I won't be surprised if it can do 200km.

125z I'm not sure, but as many 2 strokes, it can vary a lot.
A poorly tuned one would only go for less than 100km for RM8.

I see, currently I had 125ZR which is my dad bike, but he less use d.
But i think my bike RM10 can only go around 120km.
I'm not so good in bike also. What kind of sign consider a perfect tuned?

mod the 125z, lc for daily use.

btw proven that lc5s key locker is quite anti thieft
get broken up the rock but the key hole jamed so the theif cant open it ..
and the handle lock also cant open , but bengkok quite badly..
damage =
road tax get curi , toolset inside lc
need redo roadtax sight, just lucky that bike dint gone off

Check the plug tip, should be slightly grey ash, and the ground electrode is oil free.
Once bike warmed up, throttle response is good and not too much smoke. Exhaust sound is snappy, and not sluggish.

Sorry to hear that. Roadtax also want to steal? Must be desperate.
Now better change to new set of ori key lock.

You got put disc lock, right?

The air filter which one better? go for high flow or remove it? if remove it, replace with what?

this minor modi that i read from past version of this group, which one is good? i`m in confius here

ONE
performance:
1) 57mm block and piston
2) remove air filter (free)
3) 28mm keihin PE carb
4) extra 180 bucks for NOB1 SSS if you can get it from chongkiatz
~RM450 (exclude pipe)

handling:
1) add front fork stabilizer
2) change to bigger rear tyre (90/80)
~RM160

TWO
get a racing CDI , change to clutch plate UMA , add carrier bush faito at clutch shoes ,
nob1 SSS exhaust......can fix ur needed , no need to change any engine part such as block ,
rod cam =D
CDI = RM300
UMA clutch = RM70~80 , labour around RM20
carrier bush = RM10 , labour RM10
nob1 sss exhaust = RM180

THREE
1) use mild camshaft. Recommend to use the custom camshaft that I make if you plan to use stock engine.
2) bigger valve head (21 IN, 19 OUT)
3) port and polish cylinder head
4) stiffer valvespring
5) Racing CDI
6) 28mm carburetor
7) Bigger exhaust manifold
8) remove air filter

The predicted result is, you are able to achieve maximum horsepower from 9000 - 10000rpm.
Power would drop starting from 10krpm, but engine still can rev up to 11krpm.
Just a rough estimation. This way, you can almost preserve the low-mid rpm torque.

And I can guarantee, with the setup above, you can easily ta pau FZ150i

This post has been edited by wady89: Mar 7 2014, 12:21 PM

nob1 less power. use ahm m1 or yy pang. if buy second hand just change fiber. sound very power.

It depends what you want. You asked for minor mod...