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 Yamaha LC135 Y15ZR Y16ZR Club - V18, King of kings

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koie06
post Jun 13 2014, 09:26 PM

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please ask for year of manufacture. as i've been inform by the sales men at the bike shop, GP edition for 2014 is not come out yet. usually launch around October and this year dont know yamaha choose which model for GP Edition.

but dont believe on me 100% because im not working with Hong Leong Yamaha..haha
TSalexei
post Jun 13 2014, 09:28 PM

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yanmokhtarwelcome indeed... let me know if you wanted to be added as owner's list.

zkhinThe price, need to ask. If included, I think worth it.
V2 uses BS carb, V1 uses VM carb. The power delivery is different, with the V2 being smoother.
Which version more powerful, they are same engine from factory, difference would depend on tuning.
Back few page, you'll see piju journey on carb tuning.

This post has been edited by alexei: Jun 13 2014, 09:30 PM
zkhin
post Jun 13 2014, 10:33 PM

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@koie06 i know it is not the 2014 edition.

@alexei i think should be included, because he quoted me 7.3k for normal es. If im not wrong i saw the headlight with the orange side lights. So in conclusion it is better to get the v2 one right? But the es colour on v2 dont look as good as it used to be one white/red =(
lms2005
post Jun 14 2014, 12:15 AM

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regarding brake pad for lc5s...

the front one is it same with lagenda 2piston one?

the rear one same with any model? lc4s front?
NoobboyZzZ
post Jun 14 2014, 03:51 AM

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QUOTE(lms2005 @ Jun 14 2014, 12:15 AM)
regarding brake pad for lc5s...

the front one is it same with lagenda 2piston one?

the rear one same with any model? lc4s front?
*
125z for front and rear same thing laugh.gif

sight have an accident with my lc
bike not much problem but t-fork macam sudah gg

and broke my collar bone in the same time sleep at hospital for 5day doh.gif



This post has been edited by NoobboyZzZ: Jun 14 2014, 03:54 AM
TSalexei
post Jun 14 2014, 01:14 PM

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zkhinbetter or not I don't know lor, but spare part become very unique, harder to find?

NoobboyZzZwhen was that? just recently?
thianz
post Jun 14 2014, 03:02 PM

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QUOTE(NoobboyZzZ @ Jun 14 2014, 03:51 AM)
125z for front and rear same thing  laugh.gif

sight have an accident with my lc
bike not much problem but t-fork macam sudah gg

and broke my collar bone in the same time sleep at hospital for 5day  doh.gif
*
show la tht scar pic .. baru macho laugh.gif laugh.gif
NoobboyZzZ
post Jun 14 2014, 06:00 PM

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QUOTE(alexei @ Jun 14 2014, 01:14 PM)
zkhinbetter or not I don't know lor, but spare part become very unique, harder to find?

NoobboyZzZwhen was that? just recently?
*
last 2 week laugh.gif now in recovering mode laugh.gif going 90kmh sudden rear wheel belayang layang then jatuh ,

Itsuki_Kun
post Jun 14 2014, 08:27 PM

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Apa masalah apabila diorg pasang tayar terbalik...? ada apa2 akan jadi tak..?
TSalexei
post Jun 14 2014, 08:35 PM

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QUOTE(NoobboyZzZ @ Jun 14 2014, 06:00 PM)
last 2 week  laugh.gif  now in recovering mode  laugh.gif  going 90kmh sudden rear wheel belayang layang then jatuh ,
*
Rear tyre pancit? or kena minyak?

QUOTE(Itsuki_Kun @ Jun 14 2014, 08:27 PM)
Apa masalah apabila diorg pasang tayar terbalik...? ada apa2 akan jadi tak..?
*
wah, long time no see...
if terbalik, as in rotation terbalik, when kena water, the tayar is easier to aqua plane.
Itsuki_Kun
post Jun 14 2014, 08:39 PM

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water problem only lah.. oh I see... Next time I want change my bike EO ka sun bian change back to correct side of tire..
Memang sudah lama tak jumpa.. I really miss TT like last time~
NoobboyZzZ
post Jun 15 2014, 04:24 AM

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QUOTE(alexei @ Jun 14 2014, 08:35 PM)
Rear tyre pancit? or kena minyak?
wah, long time no see...
if terbalik, as in rotation terbalik, when kena water, the tayar is easier to aqua plane.
*
ingat ada minyak ...
spadecrew
post Jun 16 2014, 04:39 AM

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From: shah alam

Hi guys...need some help...my standard bike 30k km (lc v1 4speed I think-the black n white colour) start to makan EO...last service only around 100-150ml of eo left...and my engine are vibrating like crazy at high rpm...and I think my cluth out already...

I was thinking to change block piston etc2 to counter the prob...but the main problem is I dont know how to go about(what good n not good)...and alang2 open engine I thought to modified it...

Here some few question that keep me pening:-

-there's lot of block/piston out there...which one to choose?
(Good power/reliable/less give headache) that can maintain high speed on highway-50km 1 way to office
X1r/Cms/shark/uma/fz ori/etc2

-what size of block/piston size should I use(60mm/62mm/65mm/etc2)

-when I change to bigger block/piston...to get all of the power out...is it better to change to racing head or korek ori head better?

-my engine vibrate like hell...is this the sign of my piston rod goyang? And/or Crankshaft being unbalanced?

-what is jack rod?

-do I need high cam?

-what cdi to use?

-which carburator to use?

-maybe my cluth plate out already...feel like not enough gear...never change since I buy the bike...30k km already...any recomendation on this? Change to original or any brand more syiok n reliable than ori?

Sorry for a lot of question...this is the first time to modified...before this using scooter only...huhu








cahayamalamku
post Jun 16 2014, 08:48 AM

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QUOTE(koie06 @ Jun 13 2014, 09:26 PM)
please ask for year of manufacture. as i've been inform by the sales men at the bike shop, GP edition for 2014 is not come out yet. usually launch around October and this year dont know yamaha choose which model for GP Edition.

but dont believe on me 100% because im not working with Hong Leong Yamaha..haha
*
the GP Edition should be launched around October like previous 2012's and 2011's. however, from info that i have gathered around the net, nothing much changes being done with the GP Edition. only the updated graphic/ livery design. more expensive and more 'panas' icon_idea.gif because they are limited brows.gif however, i do like the 2011's that came with black and blue wub.gif
koie06
post Jun 16 2014, 09:21 AM

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QUOTE(spadecrew @ Jun 16 2014, 04:39 AM)
Hi guys...need some help...my standard bike 30k km (lc v1 4speed I think-the black n white colour) start to makan EO...last service only around 100-150ml of eo left...and my engine are vibrating like crazy at high rpm...and I think my cluth out already...

I was thinking to change block piston etc2 to counter the prob...but the main problem is I dont know how to go about(what good n not good)...and alang2 open engine I thought to modified it...

Here some few question that keep me pening:-

-there's lot of block/piston out there...which one to choose?
(Good power/reliable/less give headache) that can maintain high speed on highway-50km 1 way to office
  X1r/Cms/shark/uma/fz ori/etc2

-what size of block/piston size should I use(60mm/62mm/65mm/etc2)

-when I change to bigger block/piston...to get all of the power out...is it better to change to racing head or korek ori head better?

-my engine vibrate like hell...is this the sign of my piston rod goyang? And/or Crankshaft being unbalanced?

-what is jack rod?

-do I need high cam?

-what cdi to use?

-which carburator to use?

-maybe my cluth plate out already...feel like not enough gear...never change since I buy the bike...30k km already...any recomendation on this? Change to original or any brand more syiok n reliable than ori?

Sorry for a lot of question...this is the first time to modified...before this using scooter only...huhu
*
Im new with LC. but already survey for some part recommend by foreman & some sifu's.

-there's lot of block/piston out there...which one to choose?
(Good power/reliable/less give headache) that can maintain high speed on highway-50km 1 way to office
X1r/Cms/shark/uma/fz ori/etc2
- Recommended to use CMS or UMA 62mm Ceramic Coated block + Forged Piston

-what size of block/piston size should I use(60mm/62mm/65mm/etc2)
- 60mm & 62mm. Bigger size = high maintenance + not durable for long distance

-when I change to bigger block/piston...to get all of the power out...is it better to change to racing head or korek ori head better?
- for 62mm or higher, its better to change to bigger valve to optimize the power. but not necessary.

-my engine vibrate like hell...is this the sign of my piston rod goyang? And/or Crankshaft being unbalanced?
- Rod goyang will make sound. if just vibrate its maybe your crankshaft not balance or crank bearing housing problem

-what is jack rod?
- Jack rod = up stroke

-do I need high cam?
- recommended to use high cam for wider powerband especially on high RPM.

-what cdi to use?
- BRT recommended

-which carburator to use?
- at lease 28mm carb. recommended to use UMA or PWK

-maybe my cluth plate out already...feel like not enough gear...never change since I buy the bike...30k km already...any recomendation on this? Change to original or any brand more syiok n reliable than ori?
- Just change to original clutch plate + UMA Racing Hyper Clutch Housing(5 spring) or Syscast Clutch Housing(6 spring) for better clutch friction

that just my opinion. Just wait for Sifu's reply. thumbup.gif

This post has been edited by koie06: Jun 16 2014, 09:22 AM
TSalexei
post Jun 16 2014, 11:12 AM

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koiespadecrewHere are my humble and personal opinion, generally applied to kapchais. No offense ya.
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


This post has been edited by alexei: Jun 17 2014, 08:24 AM
TSalexei
post Jun 16 2014, 01:33 PM

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We are approaching page 20.
Need a volunteer new TS for version 21.
koie06
post Jun 16 2014, 02:59 PM

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GO! GO! GO! alexei.... rclxms.gif
spadecrew
post Jun 16 2014, 04:56 PM

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From: shah alam
Nice..tq for the reply...need to find good workshop in s.alam to do the work...hard to trust workshop nowdays...haih...

NoobboyZzZ
post Jun 17 2014, 05:00 AM

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From: cheras



QUOTE(koie06 @ Jun 16 2014, 09:21 AM)
Im new with LC. but already survey for some part recommend by foreman & some sifu's.

-there's lot of block/piston out there...which one to choose?
(Good power/reliable/less give headache) that can maintain high speed on highway-50km 1 way to office
  X1r/Cms/shark/uma/fz ori/etc2
- Recommended to use CMS or UMA 62mm Ceramic Coated block + Forged Piston

-what size of block/piston size should I use(60mm/62mm/65mm/etc2)
- 60mm & 62mm. Bigger size = high maintenance + not durable for long distance

-when I change to bigger block/piston...to get all of the power out...is it better to change to racing head or korek ori head better?
- for 62mm or higher, its better to change to bigger valve to optimize the power. but not necessary.

-my engine vibrate like hell...is this the sign of my piston rod goyang? And/or Crankshaft being unbalanced?
- Rod goyang will make sound. if just vibrate its maybe your crankshaft not balance or crank bearing housing problem

-what is jack rod?
- Jack rod = up stroke

-do I need high cam?
- recommended to use high cam for wider powerband especially on high RPM.

-what cdi to use?
- BRT recommended

-which carburator to use?
- at lease 28mm carb. recommended to use UMA or PWK

-maybe my cluth plate out already...feel like not enough gear...never change since I buy the bike...30k km already...any recomendation on this? Change to original or any brand more syiok n reliable than ori?
- Just change to original clutch plate + UMA Racing Hyper Clutch Housing(5 spring) or Syscast Clutch Housing(6 spring) for better clutch friction

that just my opinion. Just wait for Sifu's reply. thumbup.gif
*
get the shark 62mm ceramic thailand version not indonesia one
btw dont jack rod 1.5mm and for head jus take it good sifu port and polish it , if wan mroe power get a racing head but cost high
and cdi jus use any aftermarket cdi such as brt
carb u may use kips carb or tzm carb , tzm one already lari setting
clutch if can convert it to hand clutch , or use harder spring and racing clutch but comfirm will used up fast the clutch plate

goyang like hell normally ur eo habish cause u say burn a lot , piston ring or valve seal is out ...
if overhaul better include the mod u wan but maintaince sure high side , jus chg eo every 2k m use 20-50 eo sure can tahan sikit

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