I want to install wideband sensor and gauge, but many of these gauge only show AFR. Because I run CNG, the AFR will be skewed at Lambda=1. What's the best practice for bi-fuel cars?

http://www.tricktuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7

Until now, I'm still not very sure about the relationship between O2 narrow/wide band voltage vs lambda value vs AFR. Anyone got good layman term to teach me how these changes with fuel?

Hi guys, I need some voluntary help here on a simple DIY.
This morning I was fiddling around the engine bay and I found the original earth point on the car which is mounted to the gearbox mount. I open up the earth point and negative terminal. I saw that the earth point contact is not good because the mounting of the wart point is painted so took some sandpaper and sanded off a small area around the earth mounting point then I took a metal brush to brush the ring connector and clean the negative and positive terminals. Then I put back everything.

1st thing I notice after this is the throttle lag has reduced and my headlights still dim when the ac kicks in but just a short while only. Now I'm not sure what I did made the improvements could be placebo effect. So here I hope some members maybe could do the same ad I did and see if there is actually any improvement because I'm thinking if this simple DIY can work then add in the ular Oren by YAB then the effect will be more better.

It will be nice if a few can chip in and try this and see the result got or not

Can you show me the grounding point on my Persona?

Next TT perhaps

This post has been edited by mengsuan: Jun 23 2013, 07:56 PM

got pitcha? ayam veri interested.

regarding the lag, ayam on LCP i feel the lag returned. not sure if its my butt but i seriously felt it. anyone here with LCP and ular oren can clarify this?

This post has been edited by billy520: Jun 23 2013, 08:04 PM

it seems like caltex giving me better fc than bhp...

I thought if wanna install GC you SHOULD sand off the paint of the contact surface?

That's what EricTioh did on my car when he installed the VS

i don think he is talking about GC. its the ori cable that came with the car?

"original earth point on the car which is mounted to the gearbox mount"

Hifly tyre? never heard of it.... 205/55R15... nice! can fit 205 for our Saga?

how much per donut? maybe down south never see it....

is this a china tyre?

Talking about FC, just an update about my Rm30 Vpower Racing and top up with Ron95 Fuelsave. The returns around 13kms per litre as well.

not much different and 50/50 driving ....

so the FC can never justify the expensive fuel.... unless just like a extra to clean up the engine I guess.

using caltex RON95... i cheapjing poorfag no use RON97 before...

subjective. the "less harsh" is due to rubber sharing some of the shock force from the spring. however, do take note that your spring are compressing less, which means it is unable to dampen some of the shock force.
and that is where davidke20 is coming from

refer a brief discussion between me and another veteran forumer lol:
https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopic=2839443

to simply put, if the force dampening required is not enough to bottom out the car without spring buffers, having spring buffers will be less harsh; While situations where the spring would bottom out already, having spring buffers may promote more harsh ness (although it may prevent the spring from bottoming out)

my grounding point is more than enough already (and yes i have one at the gear box mounting (or was it directly on the gear box housing.... need to double confirm lol) to the point my existing stock grounding cables (2 of them) are almost useless as the other grounding cables already took up the entire car's grounding requirements lol

can use current meters such as this one to be sure:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Current_clamp


personally, i prefer results that can be measured/bench-marked (when available )

thanks for the heads up. this means on lowered spring, put that also wont allow us to use profile 55 tyre without getting sagat? wait...or not? since the coil wont be too near to each other hence the tyre wont sagat?cos the ride wont get as low with full load?

WTF ayam dreaming... put lowered spring so ride will go lower hence the stiffness. now finding a way to put profile 55 to reduce the stiffness? ayam going tanjung rambutan...

This post has been edited by billy520: Jun 23 2013, 09:12 PM

sagat? you mean tire rubbing fender?
if you never had such issue before spring buffer, then adding won't make a difference. if you already do, then adding may prevent it or reduce the occurrence of tire rubbing fender.

ride height WILL NOT BE ALTERED.

=edit=
that's why you have to draw the line between comfort/performance (or aesthetics from lowered vehicle lol), and be content on what you decided with.

also, pay school fees la lol.

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Jun 23 2013, 09:16 PM

thats y ayam going to tanjung rambutan is not comfort ayam looking actually. just don wan sagat when on full load of pigs

TT teh tarik on me! when i go kl

This post has been edited by billy520: Jun 23 2013, 09:19 PM

And....?

My point is that for a grounding point to be effective, whatever paint around that part should be sanded off. Doesn't matter aftermarket or stock grounding point.

Yeah, ginally fix back my vacuum metre, thanks to davidke20 on sum help. TQVM treat u a drink next TT

For a GaGa, if talking about bottoming up then the only choice will be TAXI spring liao I carry hundreds of KGs of documents on Thursday going OFF ROAD at Dengkil/Banting/Jenjarom/Panglima site just like a 30tons truck