QUOTE(mengsuan @ Jun 21 2013, 10:22 PM)
i got a few shops la but its at jalan ipoh/intan baiduri my place lolPROTON SAGA BLM, FL & FLX CLUB V46, thread orang gaji ciput
PROTON SAGA BLM, FL & FLX CLUB V46, thread orang gaji ciput
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Jun 22 2013, 01:58 AM
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#1
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5,367 posts Joined: Jan 2007 From: KL Malaysia |
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Jun 23 2013, 02:00 AM
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#2
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Jun 23 2013, 02:10 AM
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#3
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QUOTE(mengsuan @ Jun 22 2013, 11:01 PM) Thankfully nothing is wrong with the drivetrain after checking. It is the brake pad warning, surprisingly the scraping sound can be heard without pressing on the brakes too i have some scraping issue too with my brake pads, too old stock EBC (year 2006 and earlier, since it does not come with factory fitted noise reduction shims) when i got the pads from pentagon (msia distro) the pads already got rust somemore lol, only took it because had around rm100 discount funny part is how there's these scraping sound ONLY when i'm not braking. if i brake no sound maybe i need to brake harder let the pads finish change new stock ebc straight from UK international shipping lol |
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Jun 23 2013, 04:51 PM
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#4
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QUOTE(jsnkok @ Jun 23 2013, 09:36 AM) for saga iswara it only costed me 4xx for a whole set.normal lowered springs also need 100-200 (and many people including myself selling it off lol) so yeah, i hated myself for not buying that first and had to pay school fees |
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Jun 23 2013, 04:52 PM
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#5
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5,367 posts Joined: Jan 2007 From: KL Malaysia |
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Jun 23 2013, 05:33 PM
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#6
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5,367 posts Joined: Jan 2007 From: KL Malaysia |
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Jun 23 2013, 05:38 PM
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#7
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QUOTE(davidke20 @ Jun 23 2013, 05:19 PM) Can be done, last time I bought aquarium sponge filter, hook it on the cooling coil with rubber band. However, the rubber band snapped, later I tied it up with hmm i asked about that with my air cond guys, they don't recommend because it may get soaked if temperatures are very cold and eventually the filter will lose it's purpose too, or even worse, damage and bits of it circulating around your air cond ducts/vents clogging it |
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Jun 23 2013, 05:41 PM
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#8
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5,367 posts Joined: Jan 2007 From: KL Malaysia |
QUOTE(V12Kompressor @ Jun 23 2013, 05:35 PM) could be just me if it was heading towards sg buloh direction, in silver/grey (looks grey, but lol i just checked the color code it is medium silver, metallic when i was shopping for paint chip fixes http://www.ezytouchup.com/) with a pair of philips DRLs (not those lol china rounded bulb ones) |
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Jun 23 2013, 05:57 PM
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#9
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QUOTE(davidke20 @ Jun 23 2013, 05:38 PM) Progressive spring is the aftermarket spring that has the same travel length as the stock spring, but with different amount of coil count on the spring. minor correction ya, progressive springs, more particularly lowered, still has slightly shorter travel length than stock/oem springs due to the simple fact that the height is lowered. it does however have many more coils compared to stock/oem springs to maintain the comfort level/rebound that is very comparable to stock springs while at the same time providing stiffness/performance when it is required.So, next time if your absorber KO again, dont save money on the spring. The other day I already warn you save enough money for the spring liao it is the best of both worlds, however it won't execl in either world: - the springs are lowered and no matter how you see it it will *most likely* won't be as comfortable as stock. HOWEVER, as iinm dares mentioned, due to its firmness compared to stock, it will not have wobbles/floaty feel when going through bumps/pot holes, and that may create an illusion that the car is actually very comfortable (because the passengers in the cabin experiences lesser flexing/movement) - progressive springs stiffness require the springs to compress to a certain degree before it reaches it's stiff coils. so on highways like mrr2, you still will experience floaty effect (excess of 130km/h) on the straights until you start taking corners beyond 120-140km/h while on my previous linear apm performax, i've never experienced it because the springs are permanently stiff. picture to further illustrate on how progressive springs look like: ![]() noticed the "2 sections" on the springs? 1 with more coils, the other with less? and yes i highly agree with davidke20 on being cheapskate on springs, it's just not worth it and i've paid a huge lesson (because that may be one of the contributor towards my prior accident that costed me over RM8k aside of my own stupidity and recklessness) with constant b****ing about how shitty the comfort is on normal sport springs consider this: springs are "one time" purchases, typically they don't go wrong/broken unless you have a damn major accident (which then i believe you have something else to worry about) absorbers on the other hand are wear and tear items and if you keep prematurely wearing them off due to subpar springs, how much are you actually saving? FYI my absorbers almost cost twice the price of my springs, do you think it is wise to save cost on springs while screwing the absorbers? |
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Jun 23 2013, 05:59 PM
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#10
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QUOTE(davidke20 @ Jun 23 2013, 05:53 PM) aduih lol. i guess they are right? and alternative is to somehow mod filters into the vent itself, or the main passage after the blower (that one i've diy cleaned it before so no issues) still procrastinating on it (as with other iswara members LOL, it's a game of "you do first and post guide la" among us |
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Jun 23 2013, 06:06 PM
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#11
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QUOTE(kenjilew @ Jun 23 2013, 05:46 PM) not rich, because i used the china rounded bulbs ones and i got fed up on them.perhaps its my luck, but now they are sitting in my cabin/trunk as display lights because few bulbs malfunctions (i even replaced twice at howie's, until sien ady, and yes he also sien) philips, so far so good. even accident, rock chipped it, flooded with water (from the damages seal/hole), all LEDs are still working, so dun care la lol |
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Jun 23 2013, 06:09 PM
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#12
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QUOTE(dares @ Jun 23 2013, 06:01 PM) https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=61229814review from siapa ni? |
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Jun 23 2013, 06:17 PM
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#13
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5,367 posts Joined: Jan 2007 From: KL Malaysia |
QUOTE(V12Kompressor @ Jun 23 2013, 05:49 PM) not you then... lol defo not me, because i'll just down shift if i'm under 3k rpm/100km/h and rev up to 7k before shifting back up to my last gear (lol 3rd) and the engine noise is rather audible even with hood sound proofing He admired my ass so much so me being a gentleman, let him have the right lane to overtake me. So I switched to the middle lane while on an uphill incline and accelerating away on the downhill incline. After a few meters, that iswara appears to be very tiny and I saw it turned off to the ramp heading to pandan perdana from my rear view mirror. under 3k rpm on the other hand damn quiet, inside cabin won't be able to hear much since sound proofing done. (that rm5 daiso sound proofing is amazingly good in addition to my existing ones ROFL!) that typically shrugs off a huge majority of drivers on the road, save for few certain assholes that can actually drive faster than i am yet still want to hog the right lane at slower speeds (turbo charged cars/2.0 and above cars) oh and i dunno where is pandan perdana XD but yeah, i've seen/heard WAYYYYYY too many iswara/saga/wira/satria that has DAMN LOUD exhaust/engine but moves like turtle, what the flying f*** weih. (anything that i can hear in my cabin is considered stupidly loud ady lol) really hope noise/emission laws are implemented so people won't just decat (lol i want to decat also can't, no cat |
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Jun 23 2013, 06:20 PM
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#14
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Jun 23 2013, 06:22 PM
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#15
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QUOTE(davidke20 @ Jun 23 2013, 06:13 PM) I use the sponge to cover the whols intake PRE-cooling coil, strap them with cable tie. That's it. It does not soak that way because there's no surface contact with the cooling coil at all. If by any chance the filter being wet, the only thing it soaked will be the plastic cover of the cooling coil ah no wonder, damn replacing the filter would be a b**** then, and if prolonged, like you said, really bad air flow and yea, additional noise in the cabin/low driver side air flow is not welcomed (which is why the air cond dudes tell me to forget it lol, i guess they've probably had people done it before |
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Jun 23 2013, 06:37 PM
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#16
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QUOTE(mengsuan @ Jun 23 2013, 06:28 PM) go ask speedzone malaysia for H&R, eibach i guess from kakimotor http://www.kakimotor.com.my/web/categoryty...tegoryTypeID=17 ?not familiar since never dealt with eibach before. |
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Jun 23 2013, 07:02 PM
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#17
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QUOTE(mengsuan @ Jun 23 2013, 06:45 PM) Any chance that a properly working factory spring is still better than aftermarket springs? Actually I don't have much to complain about my springs yet. Ride height is still good despite having CNG tank. only for comfort/ride height (assuming you do not want to lower), yes.anything else a progressive spring will beat it easily. |
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Jun 23 2013, 08:39 PM
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#18
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QUOTE(billy520 @ Jun 23 2013, 07:32 PM) if wanted a bit comfort/smoother ride from the sport/short spring, adding spring buffer will it be less harsh? subjective. the "less harsh" is due to rubber sharing some of the shock force from the spring. however, do take note that your spring are compressing less, which means it is unable to dampen some of the shock force.and that is where davidke20 is coming from refer a brief discussion between me and another veteran forumer lol: https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopic=2839443 to simply put, if the force dampening required is not enough to bottom out the car without spring buffers, having spring buffers will be less harsh; While situations where the spring would bottom out already, having spring buffers may promote more harsh ness (although it may prevent the spring from bottoming out) |
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Jun 23 2013, 09:07 PM
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#19
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QUOTE(TitanRev @ Jun 23 2013, 07:54 PM) Hi guys, I need some voluntary help here on a simple DIY. my grounding point is more than enough already (and yes i have one at the gear box mounting (or was it directly on the gear box housing.... need to double confirm lol) to the point my existing stock grounding cables (2 of them) are almost useless as the other grounding cables already took up the entire car's grounding requirements lolThis morning I was fiddling around the engine bay and I found the original earth point on the car which is mounted to the gearbox mount. I open up the earth point and negative terminal. I saw that the earth point contact is not good because the mounting of the wart point is painted so took some sandpaper and sanded off a small area around the earth mounting point then I took a metal brush to brush the ring connector and clean the negative and positive terminals. Then I put back everything. 1st thing I notice after this is the throttle lag has reduced and my headlights still dim when the ac kicks in but just a short while only. Now I'm not sure what I did made the improvements could be placebo effect. So here I hope some members maybe could do the same ad I did and see if there is actually any improvement because I'm thinking if this simple DIY can work then add in the ular Oren by YAB then the effect will be more better. It will be nice if a few can chip in and try this and see the result got or not can use current meters such as this one to be sure: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Current_clamp ![]() personally, i prefer results that can be measured/bench-marked |
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Jun 23 2013, 09:12 PM
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#20
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QUOTE(billy520 @ Jun 23 2013, 09:07 PM) thanks for the heads up. this means on lowered spring, put that also wont allow us to use profile 55 tyre without getting sagat? sagat? you mean tire rubbing fender?WTF ayam dreaming... put lowered spring so ride will go lower hence the stiffness. now finding a way to put profile 55 to reduce the stiffness? ayam going tanjung rambutan... if you never had such issue before spring buffer, then adding won't make a difference. if you already do, then adding may prevent it or reduce the occurrence of tire rubbing fender. ride height WILL NOT BE ALTERED. =edit= that's why you have to draw the line between comfort/performance (or aesthetics from lowered vehicle lol), and be content on what you decided with. also, pay school fees la lol. This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Jun 23 2013, 09:16 PM |
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