ur question like u asking whether this is manual iafm or not. then we clarify to u is manual mode, wat more u wan.

wait until 10k service,then its optimum then. for preve iafm,the weight did hampered its city drive. and rm50 is old price,now around rm55. and its on average.

but i can give u a tip on how to juice up ur fc n understand how punch cvt work. apply to all,same as cfe.

in city traffic, when u stop at traffic n want to start moving,never press ur throttle 1st,wait until the car start moving or rolling bx itself n the rpm raise by 1krpm++,then u start to press the fuel pedal.

2nd, for punch cvt, there are 3 diff strategies applied.

no 1, 1k rpm to 1.6 krpm,torque being reduce a bit for ease of parking,crawling in traffic jam and driving around housing area when speed is only up to 40kmh max.

when u r crawling in traffic jam,stop n go movement when speed isnt exceeding 40kmh,just rev around that region.

no 2, 1.7krpm to 1.9krpm,or exactly below 2krpm,for city driving n slow hway cruising,the engine wil labour for optimum fuel efficiency,same as cvt ratio. yup its feel slow,but adequate enough in city driving where speed is not more than 80 kmh. so,if ur driving in town n traffic is smooth,only stop at traffic light,n after that smooth,then rev around this region.

no 3,2k rpm and beyond,this is when the character of cvt change,for cfe,of course feel like a massive torque,for iafm+,u will feel its power start to come.
the cvt ratio is more on agressive ratio,where low ratio is being given utmost priority,to ease overtaking,sudden acceleration,fully loaded, hill climbing etc. slam the pedal a bit beyond 2k rpm,even at 2.1krpm,u will feel diff feeling compare to below 2krpm, u can hear the cvt n engine roar a bit. this is where normally people will drive,but being cvt,that is not the most fuel efficient.

and since cvt, u will feel below 2krpm is really slow,but actually its not that slow. the speed still climb as conventional at at around 2k to 2.5krpm,due to smoothness,u feel it slow. thats why many kaki's dont like cvt,it doesnt give manly feeling same as manual or conventional auto or dsg.

and dont use sat function for iafm unless u know how to manipulate it. it may give better acceleration feeling,but just the feeling,not the speed.

try out urself,using sat,rev not exceeding 2krpm each gear,driving in full cvt mode,slam to 2krpm. cmpare the feeling and the speed.

im not being complicated. revving more the speed that u needed is a waste. even revving 1.9k rpm which below 2k rpm at parking lot not needed.

as i said,just sharing info n trying to help,not forcing. then i shud left u guys alone then.

im sorry coz make it too complicated n maybe offended some of u.

Chill guys, it's all up to individual paddle control, you feel comfortable revving before it turns green, suit yourself. If you feel comfortable letting the car move on its own, up to you too

Proton Preve 0-100kmh acceleration Manual Mode
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N3UFPZj3yBY

This method will sure eat smoke of heavy lorry(already move aleast 50m in front turbo Charged PReve)
The car behind Preve thinking WTF is this siput car? Preve is cause of traffic jam

As for your recommendation on letting the car move by itself from 0km/h, as the poster above Kinitos has mentioned, although it may be good to save fuel, but if the car in front is moving fast and there is a lot of space in front and your Preve is moving like a turtle, the driver behind will not be very happy. Some may horn you or overtake from the left. If you leave too much space in front, other cars from the left will cut in, and this will cause your lane to move slower, as the vehicles behind you will lose out more if many vehicles keep cutting in front of you. IN other words, other vehicles are moving faster than you and you are preventing other vehicles from moving up further in front the road. You can of course drive in the middle lane or left lane, but then surely the lorries or big trucks will sound the horn if they see too much space in front as if your engine is malfunctioning or something.

Anybody did their servicing at Proton Seksyen 13 before?

I got a feeling i may have been cheated.

Do you get back the remaining engine oil container after your service at Seksyen 13?

I did my first service there. The person in charge 'Zul'  tried to bluff me by saying it is a MUST to buy the 'magnetrap' product for the oil filter for 1st service. I declined. He did not seem happy.

I told him about my car problems. He said will check.

Here's the thing.. I forgot to mark my oil filter before sending it in. When I got back my car he said everything was checked n done. (Later I check those parts, some not even adjusted, they just tell me it's adjusted.)

I did not not get back my remaining engine oil container.

1week later now I check my engine oil, it is already starting to turn brown-ish ..

Should I be concerned that they did not even change my engine oil and oil filter? How do I even know if they did not change anything? Maybe this brownish oil is actually my old oil? New oil shouldn't turn light brown so fast, right?

I'm just worried, as I know engine may have metal pieces after run in , and engine oil needs to be changed in 1st service to clear those pieces.. If they did not change, and my engine keeps running with this old engine oil until 10,000km??? Sure have problem right? Really regret going there. Should have gone to jln227 branch instead.

Anybody did their servicing at Proton Seksyen 13 before?

I got a feeling i may have been cheated.

Do you get back the remaining engine oil container after your service at Seksyen 13?

I did my first service there. The person in charge 'Zul'  tried to bluff me by saying it is a MUST to buy the 'magnetrap' product for the oil filter for 1st service. I declined. He did not seem happy.

I told him about my car problems. He said will check.

Here's the thing.. I forgot to mark my oil filter before sending it in. When I got back my car he said everything was checked n done. (Later I check those parts, some not even adjusted, they just tell me it's adjusted.)

I did not not get back my remaining engine oil container.

1week later now I check my engine oil, it is already starting to turn brown-ish ..

Should I be concerned that they did not even change my engine oil and oil filter? How do I even know if they did not change anything? Maybe this brownish oil is actually my old oil? New oil shouldn't turn light brown so fast, right?

I'm just worried, as I know engine may have metal pieces after run in , and engine oil needs to be changed in 1st service to clear those pieces.. If they did not change, and my engine keeps running with this old engine oil until 10,000km??? Sure have problem right? Really regret going there. Should have gone to jln227 branch instead.

large SC normally use oil from barrels.

please report ur case by calling or emailing wecare asap,especially on compulsory buying magnettrap. its recommended,not compulsory though. cant force the customer. but the good thing is he asked u 1st b4 installing.

for engine oil,some use barrel,some use bottle in branch sc. normally stated in the slip.