dude, please give us some review when you get it

Bro, washing it once a week is good BUT u must also make sure, if today hujan, when u go back, spray water over it..and when i say spray, i mean spray generously and then wipe it dry. Even if u wash it once a week. Its the dirty rain water that causes those water mark. Leaving it to dry on your car for a week is more than enough to cause it.

My office is on-site at our development project. tiap2 ari go back, i will spray and wipe dry. But make sure u properly spray all the dirt off before u wipe la.

unless you're some track driver or having some really bad rotor/brake pads, sonax or meguiars are more than enough lol.

carpro's iron x is even more expensive than sonax mind you.
and chances are you either import, or get from Singapore like i did lol

if you're lazy, just have good LSP.

my car for YEARS also never had to deal with watermarks :/

remember: prevention > removal/restoration (eg: watermark removal, polishing etc)

beside clay.. is there any other way? cos i never use clay before..

Clay is not very tough to use. Just make sure you have enough lubricant(eg: use ONR, Turtle Wax Rinse Free Wash & Wax, car shampoo,etc.) while claying. Apply gentle force when claying on the paint.

If you ask me where to get the clay, I would say lowyat Automotive Garage? Haha. There are people selling for 3M, Meguiars claybar.

I haven't tried too many of them, but there's two products that I think are worth considering. One is the Soft99 Rain Hop - great beading, nice durability of around 2 ~ 3 weeks. The other is Naviwax Ioncoat - was still beading nicely after 3 weeks when I decided to wash it off and top up with something else. A little bit less user-friendly as compare to some other paste waxes - tends to streak a lot of the surface is not prep/clean properly. But if done right, can rival some of the more exotic waxes.

Those are water spots/marks/etchings. If you can't remove them by 'rubbing' it, you'd most probably need something stronger to remove them. If they're just 'light' spotting you might be able to remove them with some chemical (water spot remover, vinegar, etc.) or, if severe enough, the only way to 'remove' them is by compounding. You can try claying but, personally, I don't like claying off water spots as you'd most probably would need some polishing afterwards since claying would induce some marring. I'd rather chemically remove them as oppose to claying if they're just light spottings.

The picutre that TDUEnthusiast shows is hard water etchings - the clear coat is already etched/damaged. Those would definitely need some heavy compounding work.

I only know of one place selling this: Micro Restore Microfiber Detergent Concentrate. Damn expensive though....RM100 for 32oz.

For the initial cleaning, you might want to use Megs WB or IronX. Megs WB have worked well for me every time but, on those very stubborn ones, some agitation (with a soft brush) is still needed. And for the initial cleaning, it's best if you can take the wheels off...easier to 'scrub' and get into those hard-to-reach areas (like behind the spokes). Sonax Full Effect is a tad bit weaker than IronX but it also worked in removing those embedded brake dust....though a little slower and needed a few rounds but it does work. But my money is still on Megs WB. Find somebody who's willing to sell you some 500ml of it if you think 1gal is too much. At 1:4 you already have 2.5L of it and that's more than enough already. Do a couple of rounds of cleaning and if you can still see them, try claying them off and then clean again afterwards.

For maintenance, I just use an APC (light dusting) or degreaser (heavy dusting). I clean them every week (including the wheel barrel) and, normally, it'll take about a year or so before I need to do another off-wheel cleaning. Since you've already have it, OPC at 1:5 would do fine for maintenance. Just remember to rinse thoroughly though cuz OPC is a little bit stubborn to fully rinse off and any residue *could* cause some whitish stain on the wheel. Normally, I'd go for another round using normal shampoo if I were to use OPC.

DG105 is a sealant. Don't ask me why they call it a polish but it's definitely a sealant....

Where to buy Megs Wheel Brightener?

How is the gloss on the rain hop and naviwax? i like em shiny! was looking online and saw some other one. king of gloss.

where can i find these japanese waxes?

thanks

Autobacs Klang got quite a few of them. But last time I went around a couple of months ago I noticed their stocks is 'shrinking'....don't know why....

Give Hypercoat a call? (60) 3- 8024 4594


Btw, need some advice from the veterans. I'm looking for a waterless wash product and really wanted the Meguiars D115 Rinse Free Express Wash and Wax but Hypercoat will not be bringing this in. Anybody know good sources?

I've been using Meguiars Rinse Free Express Wash D114 at 1:128 ratio as a waterless wash spray, it's good but i use it a lot and after 2-3 uses the surface is no longer hydrophobic. I've got a gallon of D156 Xpress spray wax, so i'm really tempted to mix 15% into my current waterless wash bottle in the hope it will leave that hydrophobic layer of wax. Anybody tried mixing products like these before?

If all else fails, i'll just spray wax after a waterless wash. Or try the Optimum or Duragloss products.

P/S : The D114 was a sample, so if that runs out i'll need to source that as well. Hypercoat not selling.

This post has been edited by LazyJin: Nov 20 2013, 11:49 AM

thanks for the infor so they guess either use wax or sealant is enough?

You can try asking Hypercoat SG.

hrrmm...I haven't tried mixing D156 into D114 before. But, even if it does work, wouldn't it just be a waste as you'd be diluting the D156? Wouldn't using them separately would be more effective? Just a thought. Anyway, I'll give it a try also when I got the time.

This post has been edited by KrisMas: Nov 20 2013, 12:15 PM

Yes, the best is to use them separate, somebody on Autogeek also mentioned that that is in fact much cheaper than the D115, with similar results. But just trying to simplify the process and reduce the number of bottles I have to keep everywhere. In the apartment, at my parent's place, in my trunk etc. Just wanted an all-in-one waterless wash solution. Will also mix up a bottle to try this weekend.

Will hit up Hypercoat SG. I hope I don't have to collect in SG!

This post has been edited by LazyJin: Nov 20 2013, 03:34 PM

Thanks, bro! Anywhere else? Autobacs jauh a bit..and closes at 8 i work weekends..till 630..aihh

Called autobacs and they have a few japanese waxes..and one of them is the naviwax...

Just a brief question to all... anything bad if i decided to use wax for dark colored cars on light colored cars?

But the actual waxes are both same color.


This post has been edited by bakry: Nov 20 2013, 05:26 PM

will snatch x2.0 from meg do the trick beside using clay? thanks for the infor..

is Makina 9227C a good investment in my case ? I have own my car for almost 2 years now, previously I am not into car detail so I washed with wrong method , causing heavy swirl around the car. There are some random light scratches as well. I want to try sealant but in order to do that, I need to polish/compound the car first, that is how 9227C come into my mind. But car detailing is just my weekend hobby, wont do that for part time.So I think I might be using makina 9227c once a year for necessary polishing/compound, as polishing/compound will removing clearcoat, thus it cant be used frequently, which mean most of the time it will rest in the closet, unused. Unless I can do this for waxing, because I will wax for every month. But 9227C is tad too strong for maxing that might cause marring ?? even using the finest finishing pad ??

This post has been edited by blueyan: Nov 21 2013, 01:23 PM

I had just wax my car with Meg ultimate quick wax. My question is when do I know when to wax again ? Should it be 2 weeks ? 1 month ?

I usually see if water still beads or not.

I was searching for hand applicator pad. Then, I saw this:



Is the yellow-color-holder a holder that can buy from the market? What's it called actually?

Also, most of the time I only found pads for DA. Are those pads applicable for hand use?