Here you go. The camera capture less blue than naked eye can see but anyway is still good.
I just realized I got sun burnt on my back and a lot of small details thing not done properly; like polish over to the black plastic skirting and gaps and etc. But I am satisfy with my first time job.


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Looks great! Did you use IPA or panel wipe after you polish your car? Or you just wax the car with Collinite #476 after polish?

Also, how's Osren 2.4? Thinking to buy this product too haha.

This post has been edited by windskill: Nov 25 2013, 09:07 PM

I buff of with MF after polish. Then apply Collinite #476 and buff with MF almost instantly, do it 1 panel at a time. After that apply DG aquwax. Maybe I should have let the Collinite to settle for a day before apply DG on top for better result, but I don't have a covered car park. If it rain, my hardwork will be wasted.
Osren 2.4 is a bit abrasive, you can easily polish off water mark, swirl marks and scratches with it. But it also means it can easily cut away your clear coat. I didn't proper polish my car in 5 years, using it 1 time for whole car I think should be ok. Else use Osren 2.0 for normal polish. I'm not expert, maybe some sifus can help.

opti seal ok? not newbie not pro either.. permanon platinum almost finish and garage sale got stock

permanon platinum is not good enough? opti-seat is fine , usually can last about 3 months .

How much is the garage sale? Interested in getting another one if the price is right.....

site1

this 1 interested in wolfgang and collinite havent reply got opti seal or not

site2

usual guy. although i got permanon platinum from cars audio cuz he in sabah

just wanted to try somthing new. but albeit permanon saves alot of time and the ease of use

Is it possible to use normal torchlight to see the swirl marks, besides using sunlight?

Yes. Just a matter of how bright your torch is and how dark is the background or how much is the surrounding light. Basically, a torch rated around 150 lumen or above can show swirls on cars under the shade/porch.

hi all the sifu, any ideas how to remove bake tree sap? already try IPA, polish (by hand), clay, also can,t remove....
tq

Nice bro...how many hours uve spent to detail the whole car by hand? U did it in 1 day ke?

Probably you can try to use tar remover to remove the tree sap. Make a few pass on the contaminated area. Re-wax the area after that.

If it has by pass clearcoat , only way is to wet sanding

From 8am until 2pm.

Find yourself some tar remover, soak a tissue or cotton ball with it and put over the sap. Don't let the tissue dry and keep it damp with the tar remover by topping up. Let it dwell for 10~15 mins. That *should* soften the sap and then gently scrap it off with your fingernails or a soft plastic (like your laminated driving license). If not soft enough repeat the soaking. If still doesn't work then you'd need to get some wet sanding paper and CAREFULLY sand THE SAP off.

ok... thanks bro.. will try it. tq

Had some fun with OCW today. Now I know you don't put them on your windscreens, but I threw caution to the wind and gave it a nice spray and buff after washing and drying.

It was difficult to to buff off, even with priming the MF and the surface clung to the cloth. Not only that, it would streak but it was minimal - it was a test, so it didn't matter to me but never I would try OCW on it again with the amount of time spent to get it right... this is what happens when you don't follow advice

Now I was in KL today when the sky poured - beads, glorious beads! The rain clumped together and flew off easily at low speeds, even when cornering - shows how hydrophobic OCW can be on your paint.

Now if I can get my hands on a good bottle of Opti Seal it would be my next test. Many people have reported good results, so we shall see

Anyone tried ezy touch up to tackle stone chip paint?

i did, don't put too much expectation on it.

just go to any paintshop with a tiny bottle ask for some paint and keep. 200% better than any touch up pen out there.