i got these prior to the PW:

(bought the set which comes in a whole buncha connectors/long awesome spiral hose that's like phone cords, pretty compact stuff while able to extend/stretch very long)
http://www.claber.com/en/products/irrigati...?pn=2&fm=0&sz=3

mom was b****ing cuz it was expensive as hell however over time, she likes using it for her gardening

1) can. not a waste, however anything beyond 2-3 layers yes, a bit of a waste (dodojuice tested)

2) give few hours of cure time? some even prefer to sun bake like our sifu! krismas

3) 1 easily lasts more than 2-6+ months depending on conditions and/or if you have rain x washer additives
(the nissan sentra i posted way back on chinese new year? until now it is beading/scaring water away )

4) yes.

Mine is almost something similar as the picture, but bigger. Also got 8 types of different water output.

And YES, all nozzles will come with a stopper to let the water continuing flowing.

how much did u bought it?

because i looking at giant , those nozzles can't be stop and have to press it hard , that why i consider EZ water jet haha , if i break the EZ , will get this next time , where do u get this thing anyway?

Normal hardware shop only.

200-400? can't remember lol...

bought at some DIY/hardware store from centrepoint 1Utama

SO expensive , i rather get spray gun for wash car haha

its a whole gardening system including very long hose that's damn durable, won't deform/flatten etc

Owh , i thought u say the Head Spray gun only cost rm200~400

This few day keep rain , really moodless to wash car

i said:


also, a true detailer would have more joys washing car under rain - WATER BEADING SHOW!

Haha , after wax my car with Ultimate Liquiq Wax , i really love the effect , i dry my car not even 5 minutes, because u just let the Water Magnet Towel roll over the car body , all the water is drying


I heard the seller say ULW is more easy and faster way to apply , and it dry faster too ,some old school paste wax u need some pressure to apply and hand will sour , because it's too stick , is that true?

yes and no i guess. better wax can bead/sheet water better, hence less drying effort. however any wax worth their salt (even the cheap rm2x turtle wax paste that lasts for f***ing ever) would still have decent water beading/sheeting that you never have to apply any pressure during drying assuming your drying cloth isn't completely shit as well.

Just try ultimate compound for small area, hand almost wan patah but the swirl stil there, I guess new car coating is too hard to remove by hand?

my car is white....

got some dirt...like oil + grease...grey black color... near by my paddle door....

so how to clean it up?

how to clean scratches ?

how to maintain less scratches?

1. Some say 'double' layer is one on top of another, others say it's just for even coverage. Try a 50/50 with one half a single layer and the other half double layer and see if there's any difference in performance/durability/looks/or whatever you're looking for.

2. I would suggest overnight or at least 12hrs or more, just to make sure the 1st layer is well cured. If the 1st layer hasn't cured then there's no point in applying another fresh layer. I always use the analogy of like applying lacquer to timber/wood with a brush. If the 1st layer isn't properly cured then the 2nd layer would just soften/melt the underlying layer making the whole thing uneven and patchy.

I like it when I'm able to 'bake' the wax/sealant (after application and buffing off) under the sun as I found that it makes the wax/sealant perform better. You can try 'layering' after a few hours if you like. After the 2nd layer, if you see streaking/patches or it takes far longer for the 2nd layer to dry (or won't dry at all), that would mean the 1st layer hasn't properly cured yet.

3. I've only been putting on one layer of RainX and I don't see any advantage of putting on more than that.

4. Yes, just remember to rinse afterwards. Also take note that most shampoo has wax/gloss enhancer/etc in it and leaving it to dry on it's own *could* result in dry residue/marks. Nothing like a *very* mild paint cleaner/polish couldn't remove though.....

A clean and well protected (wax/sealant/coating) paint is ALWAYS easier to dry. Lots of people would ask me what cloth am I using but I just smile at them....hehehe. The cloth is only half the reason....

Most (if not all) waxes & sealants are easy to apply if you get the methods/techniques correct...some are more user friendly and easier to learn than others.

How many rounds/passes did you try? Did it not removed AT ALL or not remove ALL? Remember UC is (sort of) an aggressive compound and to remove deeper swirls & scratches you'd need to apply pressure and some paint are easier then another. That's why most of the time you'd need to follow up with a mild polish like Ultimate Polish to remove marks/marring left from using Ultimate Compound.

You'd need to clean it with something that can dissolve/break down the oil/grease...if you don't have any all purpose cleaner or degreaser, you can try a *very* mild dilution of dish washing liquid.

Depending on how severe/deep the scratches, you can use a polish or compound to remove them.

If by scratches you mean marring/swirls/etc., most of the time it would be caused by improper technique during washing & drying. Google up, read and understand the causes and how to minimize it from happening. For scratches caused by third party, well, you can only take the necessary precautions like parking at spots that have less human traffic, etc.

what if i apply 1 layer of ULW how long do i need to wait to apply UQW?

This post has been edited by ic3joker: Sep 11 2013, 01:49 PM

I can't say for sure cuz I haven't really tried UQW before...only had some sample of it. But I would think that the same principle applies. Best is to wait a few hours or so or do it the next day until you're sure that ULW is cured. But I think Megs says you can straight away use UQW right after ULW so I might be wrong here. Anyway, try la....again, if anything you can judge by the results whether it becomes patchy/streaky or not. Or, again, do another 50/50 and see how both performs.

when i re-wax with ULW, i usually wait for the next day before topping up with UQW. but to be honest, even with ULW, its looks very shiny already . UQW i find adds more depth and has a darkening effect.

The key about ULW is to always ensure you apply a very very thin layer. Else you will get streaking issues. The UPW is more forgiving.

oh and just an update my ULW experience. i recently had the 'opportunity' to really test out the durability of ULW. I did not had the time to top on with my fav UQW for 2 weeks running due to lack of time. only a simple wash with NXT wash. I'm into the 3rd week now, in rain and shine. Water beading is still present, although deteriorated slightly at the lower panels and boot area. The shine is still there but the paint does not feel buttery smooth like after the first application. Already went through a couple of real heavy rain sessions. I just have to say that ULW is definitely able to last longer than i expected during the rainy season. I remember seeing someone post before that ULW does not make it past a week during rainy seasons, but i seem to be having a different experience. Anyhow, I'm not gonna allow another week to go by and not topping up with UQW. I rather not take that chance..

after reading through meguiars website and you guys' reply i will stick for 1 layer and apply UQW on next weekend when i wash the car. btw, where can we get sonax product locally? how you guys protect your headlamp? should i go for 3m headlamp tint or just normal wax it? can we wax headlamp using ULW? too much questions

This post has been edited by ic3joker: Sep 11 2013, 07:30 PM