Which is why the AF module alignment etc is very critical for D800's 36MP sensor... I'm getting mixed results when hand held but when I shoot on tripod and with sufficient lighting, the left AF is always slightly back focused!

Going to try with a target chart today...without moving my target/camera left and right like I'm doing.

http://photokaz.com/2012/07/nikon-d800-con...ofocus-testing/

According to a blog... Nikon uses this kind of test chart for verification... guess its to check different positions of AF points?

http://hifivoice.files.wordpress.com/2012/...jpg?w=600&h=400

This post has been edited by celciuz: Dec 4 2012, 07:14 AM

1/100 is the shutter speed right? but i notice that higher the shutter speed light seems deemer.
currently i will adjust my iso according condition just i try to maintain iso as low as possible

yes, that is shutter speed. the faster the window open and close, the less light can travel in, so ur picture will be deemer.
dont worry about noise, d7000 is quite capable to handle it. jump increase the iso n try, this is digital camera and u can take as many photos u want

bro just try slowly to stop using lowest ISO possible. todays camera iso 1000 is more then fine. heck, even my d90 before can iso 1000
the bar that says -2 -1 0 +1 +2 in ur view finder is actually the built in light meter in ur camera, its purpose is to help u with ur gambar. it will tell u if the picture is to bright or just to dark in the sense negative being dark and positive being bright.
so before u snap that picture, take a look at that meter and adjust accordingly. ur aperture is already fixed so u cannot touch that, so mess around with ur shutterspeed/ISO. to avoid motion blur u need atleast 200/250 shutterspeed above since u dont have a flash and built-in-one is so-so only (its not useless, i still use it sometimes and it can be good.. sometimes )

and dont worry about what is right or wrong, in photography there is none. its all up to u

u dont want to send to nikon to fix the AF issue? i heard the problem was because of a miscalculation/miscalibration of the software... if its true then whatever we do at home wont be the same as whatever nikon has in their factory right?

This post has been edited by MrAkay: Dec 4 2012, 09:53 AM

Usually many people will say use lowest ISO possible to prevent noise, but it also depend on situation, like amduser mention, when you need to capture action, what's the point if you cannot even get the picture?
First, try to capture the moment, rather than picture all blur due to movement, so here you need to understand the minimum shutter speed to freeze action/movement. The faster the movement, you need faster shutter speed.
You have a VR lens which can help to use slower shutter speed and prevent vibration/shake, but it won't help you freeze movement when you're using slow shutter speed.
I would suggest you to experiment yourself, use "S" mode, set the shutter speed to say 1/50, try to capture people laughing or slow movement and see for yourself, then slowly increase and see which shutter speed has good/higher rate of capturing/freezing the moment without any blur. Using "S" mode, the camera will auto adjust the exposure for you. You can review the photos and you may see different ISO values as you increase the shutter speed.
Then you may later try to learn "M" mode, which you need to adjust the exposure manually to get a proper exposure (there is a ISO button, press and hold it, then move the dials at the back of the camera to change the ISO)

One more thing, generally people saw use lower ISO to prevent noise, BUT, if you shoot underexpose, the noise will be worst than using higher ISO and properly exposed. You also need to understand the noise in image, it's most visible or worst in dark areas. If you shot underexpose and try to brighten it later, the noise will be worst. Hence, it's more important to get the exposure right.
Also, what's the purpose of the camera you're using for, e.g. if you're at birthday party and you want to capture the moment, what's the point if the images come out all blur due to movements? What's the difference with phone camera or digital camera?


Yes, the faster shutter speed, means the shutter open and closes faster, allowing less light to enter the sensor. The open here not means like door opening, not sure how to explain, but you can go YouTube and watch how it works, basically there is 2 shutter curtain, so if you're at very fast shutter speed, the curtain are close to one another, thus there's very small opening only, which will give problem for Flash and you will need high speed sync where the flash will fire simultaneously. You can also watch YouTube video for more clear explanation.

To experience the shutter difference, try set the shutter speed to slower like 1/5 or slower, take a picture, notice the shutter sound is longer, then set to fast shutter like 1/250 or faster? And notice the shutter sound difference.

Dear tongweng!

Yea its deemer because you are letting less light in to the sensor.. It seems you were not on Auto-iso and you were using manual mode for it.

Try looking in to this article and try to understand exposure

Sometimes you have to use high iso during events that are poorly lit.. but at the end of the day you want a picture that is expose correctly

http://photo.net/learn/basic-photo-tips/correct-exposure/

thank you very much to all sifus, for all the advice given to me... i will practice more to get my skill refined XD

just a quick question, i getting an offer of D3000 around 1k is it worth to get it ?

Found this at PM. RM450My Webpage

dirt cheap. but got fungus

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Added on December 4, 2012, 4:43 pmjust sent one unit to Nikon BTS
2 weeks to fix

This post has been edited by s2c.photos: Dec 4 2012, 04:43 PM

stay at low ISO is correct. staying at 'lowest possible ISO' is not haha. why shoot ISO 200 and risk blurry shots, rather than higher ISO with minimal noise and getting sharp sharp photos so i would say, stay at the highest possible ISO (if there's a lot of motion, or shooting in dark/dim places)...'highest' being the point just before where noise gets too ugly.

IMHO the main use of aperture is to control the DOF, not really for exposure. fastest shutter speed is almost always preferable XD

hi all... i plan to get a D600 .. but i study the review said it's having censor dust issue. can i know anyone is using d600 here ? any respond bout this issue ? tq

if your shooting macro you might have a problem. if your using 5.6 or larger should not be a biggie but still its annoying to know its there. but seriously the image quality is amazing... the metering is amazing as well.

oh ? bro you are using d600 now ?

now i am wondering.....the kit lens is quite useless when i want to zoom and take picture.. required large ISO setting...but if take picture during day light look very good

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Added on December 4, 2012, 9:34 pm

ahiz..another failure

This post has been edited by tongweng: Dec 4 2012, 09:34 PM

It's not about kit lens. I mean, kitlens is not that bad. Lens does help but i think you are still confused with ISO + Shutter + Aperture relationship.
There's always 3 balls to juggle depending on the situation. You have to be smart and figure what kind of shot you want to get.

You can experiment this by just shooting in Auto mode. You'll see that your kit lens still can get a good shot.
(the camera adjusts for you the best setting between ISO, shutter & aperture)
Then change back to whatever mode you are shooting with, A, S, P, M. See if you can get the same shot or not ...or tweak it to your liking with A, S, P, M modes.

:: added ::

Your picture EXIF says :
Camera Nikon D7000
Exposure 0.017 sec (1/60)
Aperture f/3.5
Focal Length 18 mm
Focal Length 18.3 mm
ISO Speed 1600
Exposure Bias -1/3 EV
Flash Off, Did not fire
Exposure Mode Auto
White Balance Auto
Focal Length (35mm format) 27 mm
Quality RAW
White Balance Auto1
Focus Mode AF-C
Vibration Reduction On
Active D- Lighting Off
Lens 18-105mm f/3.5-5.6
Flash Mode Did Not Fire
Noise Reduction Off
Focus Distance 0.50 m
AFArea Mode Single Area

This post has been edited by mmohdnor: Dec 4 2012, 09:44 PM

just now i was using M mode to take that picture...i guess i should off the Exposure Mode first? cause when i zoom in everything change..

i'm usin d600.
the magic number of shots seems to be 3000, after that the dust doesn't seem to increase anymore and gone.

get 1, be trigger happy and send ur d600 to be clean when u pass 3000 shots.

if u worry too much, u wun know what u r missing

So I got a little paranoid and started testing my D800 once again... just to confirm if its really having issues or not cause I was getting mixed results when handheld.. but once on tripod and used timer for trigger it seems like yes got issue

what did he say is true.
my d600 100 shots already show dust, i didn't even change lens lol
hold your horse first, let nikon come out a solution then only buy the later batch one.

I shoot landscape quite often(f11 or smaller), cloning off the dusts is annoying

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Added on December 4, 2012, 10:07 pmglad to hear that
i just sent my d600 body for 2nd cleaning.
Shutter count is 10k.
i will verify once i got it back.

This post has been edited by sukhoi37: Dec 4 2012, 10:07 PM