I saw before some photographer use it for weding photoshoot. Not sure how's the outcome result tough.

Different class.

New technology sure different.
If Mr. A drive a Honda Civic, after 10 years, Mr. A then change to a Honda City Latest Model. Upgrade or Downgrade?
Upgrade in terms of technology advancement (features, functions, etc), but actually is should be considered a downgrade because you're downgrading to a lower end model.

This post has been edited by Andy214: Nov 19 2012, 09:57 AM

Tamron 17-50mm f/2.8

If you prefer wider, then Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8

This post has been edited by Andy214: Nov 20 2012, 12:33 AM

Tammy

Sigma isn't exactly very fast either, so Tammy is very worth the price, especially the non-VC version.

The issue is the focusing speed and accuracy, but that also depends on what the person use the lens for. For general use, it's good enough. For Weddings, it's usable but better if have a more reliable, accurate and faster focusing lens.

Overall, it's good enough for general use. Just the focusing speed and accuracy, for important or action scene, you may get much more less usable or spot on shot, which is more important if you're using it for a job.

Taken with Tammy:

D600 is using Full Frame sensor (FX). 24mm will give you actual 24mm.
D90 is Crop Sensor (DX). The crop factor is 1.5X, so whatever lens you mount, you need to multiply by 1.5X to get the actual focal length (in 25mm format). So your 18mm, when mount on your D90, the focal length will be 27mm.

Other than that, 18-105mm kit lens on the D90 is a DX lens, while the 24-85mm kit lens that comes with D600 is a FX lens.

Ok lor, mine's old model. You also own Peugeot?

---

Added on November 28, 2012, 9:06 amHehe, those can compare by specs. I think the main confusing thing is DX lens vs FX lens. Some people may confused that DX lens means no need to multiply by crop factor when mount on DX body, but actually you still need.
But when you mount DX lens on FX body, then it will be using CROP mode, which means you need to multiply by crop factor. So a DX lens at 18mm, will give you 27mm regardless you mount on DX body or FX body.

This post has been edited by Andy214: Nov 28 2012, 09:06 AM

Haha, I'm no Sifu, just sharing my findings from all the AW past posting from those real SIFU which already buried deep inside the forum.
You can also read some information about it here:
http://my206club.blogspot.com/2008/11/info...l4-gearbox.html

Basically a used unit main concern is how the previous owner take care of it and make sure they don't use non-authorised ATF. Modern gearbox are more sensitive or important to use the right ATF. Another problem is "water", try your best to avoid floods.


Yes, that's the advantage of Nikon. When you mount DX lens on full frame camera, there is a CROP Mode, where your 18mm DX lens will become 27mm due to the Crop Mode, this is because the lens cannot utilize the full frame sensor area. Hence, a DX lens.

As for image quality, can't comment because I have no experience using both and compare. But FX lens are more expensive and when mount on DX, it should give better result because it's utilizing the centre area which is usually the strength of the lens. The problem is when you mount on DX body, 24mm will become 36mm which is no longer wide.

Built quality, feel wise, I believe the D600 bundled lens will be much better. Perhaps when you try and feel both you will know. Besides, aperture wise, the bundled lens for D600 is f/3.5 to f/4.5, plus it's a refresh of the older yet very good 24-85mm f/3.5-4 AF-D.

Me not sifu bro~
Forgot to mention to you, if you mount DX lens on FX body, it will use CROP Mode, so yes you will get same long focal length as when you attach to DX Body, BUT... it will not have 24MP file. Crop Mode will give you about 10.5MP (which is still good enough already). For D800, Crop Mode will give around 15.4MP file.

For the lens suggestions, if depends on your budget and what you want to use the camera for.
If you're shooting a lot in low light situations and want a versatile lens, and have the budget... Nikon 24-70mm f/2.8
If not, the 24-85mm f/3.5-4 is already very good for general use... (correction: new version should be f/3.5-4.5 G)
You can get a prime lens if you need one for low light and portraits.
It really depends on the purpose you want to use the camera for and your budget.

Also note that FX will have more shallow DOF, which means, if you use large aperture, you may notice harder to get more things in focus compare to smaller sensor, and you may also keep getting many OOF if you using very large aperture and you're not used to it yet.


Not really sure what you meant.
Basically, FX is larger sensor, means the Depth of Field (DOF) is more shallow, so it's harder to get more things in focus. So if you're shooting landscape, you may experience and notice less is in focus comparing to when you're using DX.
Like Agito mentioned, if you use a digital camera or handphone camera which has small sensor, you can simply take a photo and you many things will be in focus. A handphone camera, using f/2.8, you can also see many things in focus. BUT, it also depends how you see, whether you're pixel peeping on the overall image quality or just want to get something that's in focus and viewable on screen.

This post has been edited by Andy214: Nov 29 2012, 11:44 AM

Oops, typo, the new G should be f/3.5-4.5. Thanks for reminding~

U1 and U2 is your custom settings. If not wrong, you can choose your own mode (e.g. A, M, S) then set your preferred settings, ISO, etc. then go to the menu and save the settings into U1 or U2.
So your U1 and U2 will be your customized mode.
Example: I use "M" mode, and customize my own settings like Picture Control, Metering, etc. then save it into U1. So U1 will be my customized "M" mode.

Usually many people will say use lowest ISO possible to prevent noise, but it also depend on situation, like amduser mention, when you need to capture action, what's the point if you cannot even get the picture?
First, try to capture the moment, rather than picture all blur due to movement, so here you need to understand the minimum shutter speed to freeze action/movement. The faster the movement, you need faster shutter speed.
You have a VR lens which can help to use slower shutter speed and prevent vibration/shake, but it won't help you freeze movement when you're using slow shutter speed.
I would suggest you to experiment yourself, use "S" mode, set the shutter speed to say 1/50, try to capture people laughing or slow movement and see for yourself, then slowly increase and see which shutter speed has good/higher rate of capturing/freezing the moment without any blur. Using "S" mode, the camera will auto adjust the exposure for you. You can review the photos and you may see different ISO values as you increase the shutter speed.
Then you may later try to learn "M" mode, which you need to adjust the exposure manually to get a proper exposure (there is a ISO button, press and hold it, then move the dials at the back of the camera to change the ISO)

One more thing, generally people saw use lower ISO to prevent noise, BUT, if you shoot underexpose, the noise will be worst than using higher ISO and properly exposed. You also need to understand the noise in image, it's most visible or worst in dark areas. If you shot underexpose and try to brighten it later, the noise will be worst. Hence, it's more important to get the exposure right.
Also, what's the purpose of the camera you're using for, e.g. if you're at birthday party and you want to capture the moment, what's the point if the images come out all blur due to movements? What's the difference with phone camera or digital camera?


Yes, the faster shutter speed, means the shutter open and closes faster, allowing less light to enter the sensor. The open here not means like door opening, not sure how to explain, but you can go YouTube and watch how it works, basically there is 2 shutter curtain, so if you're at very fast shutter speed, the curtain are close to one another, thus there's very small opening only, which will give problem for Flash and you will need high speed sync where the flash will fire simultaneously. You can also watch YouTube video for more clear explanation.

To experience the shutter difference, try set the shutter speed to slower like 1/5 or slower, take a picture, notice the shutter sound is longer, then set to fast shutter like 1/250 or faster? And notice the shutter sound difference.

Because your lens is variable aperture, e.g. f/3.5-5.6
which means, it's not fixed and as you zoom the f number will increase.
Your kit lens 18-105mm f/3.5-5.6 means at 18mm the max aperture is f/3.5 and at 105mm, the max aperture will be at f/5.6
If you're using "M" mode, shutter speed or ISO will not compensate for the aperture changes, so if you zoom and the aperture changed, your exposure will no longer be the same, for this situation you can use other mode like "A" (Aperture Priority) mode; not sure if Auto-ISO can work in "M" mode for this as I haven't really tried before or forgotten.

When using Auto-ISO, you can set the minimum shutter speed and maximum ISO. Set a minimum shutter speed so that the camera won't use below the minimum shutter speed specified until the maximum specified ISO is reach. Meaning that, if you set min shutter speed of 1/80, the camera will first use shutter speed for the exposure and if 1/80 is not enough, it will then start increasing ISO. If the maximum ISO specified is reach and still no proper exposure, it will then lowers the shutter speed further. You can also set the base ISO while you're shooting.

In regard to the exposure, the default metering used will be Matrix Metering which should work for most general situation. You can experiment and learn this later. Basically the metering will show you what the camera thinks is the proper exposure for the scene.

New model may also be more expensive, and not sure when will be available. If buy early, you will pay higher price before it drop. So, buy when the product is release or wait until it drop price first? Which mean wait longer?
Or just get what's available at good price and enjoy it?

Got difference in image quality, you can see some detail review comparison from some sites. The G have rounded aperture blades, so the bokeh balls will be different too. Also from my experience, D lenses generally output cooler images while G lenses output more warm images shooting the same scene with AWB. Though, it's just a simple test.

The new G Lens, AF is also silent and allows Manual Override, and the focus ring does not move when focusing, unlike the D version which will move/rotate when focusing.

Closer focusing distance will be more obvious due to the more shallow DOF, you will be able to detect even slight error; but the slight error might not be noticeable by everyone, or perhaps it's more obvious when you're the user; Hence when going to the service centre, sometimes they might not be able to see the problem of very slight error.

But your case is really obvious, hope they can fix it properly and not leaving any slight error.

Depend on the scene and also metering mode.
The exposure meter basically serves as a guide, but for non-manual mode, the camera will expose based on the exposure meter. So, if using non-manual mode, using different metering mode may yield different result.

As explained by Mr. Akay, RAW is unprocess, RAW format (in films, it's like the negatif file)
For easy understanding, it's like RAW meat, not yet cook.
JPEG is processed image, it's like a Cook Meat, which cooked using an Oven. So if you're using Nikon, imagine using a Nikon's Oven which will cook the meat based on Nikon's settings. Some people prefer Canon's Oven processed meat.
Then in this Oven, you can choose different types of cooking (e.g. like your camera picture control, you have Standard, Portrait, Vivid, etc which will output different result for the processed JPEG), and you can also customize each settings (e.g. in your camera, you can customize the pre-defined picture control, adjust the contrast, sharpness, etc).

So, JPEG and RAW. If your meat is processed and cooked, and if it's OVER Cooked, you can't do much about it. So, similarly, if your JPEG you choose VIVID mode and took a picture of a flower, you love the output and vivid color, then you saw a pretty/hot girl (or hot man, if you're a girl), you quickly take a picture forgetting you're in VIVID mode... OMG, the skin color is over-saturated, it's over-cooked. You can try to fix and recover, but as mentioned, when a meat is already processed and over-cooked, it's not easy to fix and there's not much room left for you to fix.

It all depends on what you want to shoot, what's your preference, are you satisfied with the output. Most people they're happy with the direct output from the camera, while some feels it can further add more punch, thus they edit the processed jpeg to enhance what's already been processed (or fix some part). It really depends on each individual.

I you standing exactly in the middle with the car facing you in the middle middle, if the car is parking sideways, even if you're shooting in the middle, the left and right headlamp will be in different focus plane. It will be more obvious when using large aperture and shooting up close because the DOF will be very shallow.

However, there is another problem whereby one side of the lens exhibit problem with the focusing, you can test this by shooting straight to a flat suface of picture; if you focus in the middle point, by right the entire picture should be in focus.

Pre-Focus is half-press shutter, it will focus and lock, you can do this with digital camera and some phone camera which comes with dedicated shutter key.

With small sensor camera, pre-focus to lock focus then shift your position of you subject, it may still look sharp or in focus because of the LARGE Depth Of Field. Google Depth Of Field (DOF) to see some examples.
For small sensor, if you pre-focus something very near, the you shift your position and try to shoot something far away, you will see it's blur. With big sensor like DSLR (and using large aperture), even small distance you will notice blur.
One more thing is, with digital camera or smartphone, the display is small, you may not notice the picture is not in focus, it may look acceptable viewing the picture small, when you transfer to a PC with huge monitor and set to high resolution, you may see the problem, especially if you view it in 100% zoom.

There's a lot of thing you haven't explore, do read up the manual of the type of focusing, there's also AF-C for AF-Continuous and AF-S for AF-Single, 3D Tracking, Auto, etc. It's all in the manual and some also come with pictures.
You can find tutorials online also if you need more clear understandings.

Yes, it's normal (out of focus blur) especially if you're using bigger sensor. For small sensor like point and shoot digital cameras or even handphone which has dedicated shutter for pre-focus, you can try pre-focus something VERY near, after focus lock, try move your camera and see distant/far subject, you will see blur.

If using DLSR, you using bigger aperture, the Depth Of Field is more shallow, means LESS is in focus. Due to the DOF difference between big sensor and small sensor, it will cause more common "out-of-focus" blur (especially when using big aperture).
Focal length also will affect the DOF, the longer focal length, the DOF will be shallow. Focal Length in other way to explain is your zoom, if you zoom in (further) the DOF will be more shallow.