I am not sure, but the shop say can

Windscreen i tint like 10% dark
Front glass 30%
2nd n 3rd row 70%
Rear glass 100%

Got stop by jpj yesterday, he ask why tint dark dark...I say got carry baby then he let me go

cool excuse but plausible indeed . bcos my 2 year old son always complain panas when the sun shines directly at him.. so insyaAllah my next car gonna do a rear glass 100% to

i use 5w40 (syntium 3000) for engine oil seems to work better for me. wheather here is sooo hot and talk about oil degrading during car engine running at highest temp.

Hi guys,

As promised, I'm back for some update on my wife's EB.. Today I went to Ipoh to get the EB which been in the Proton SC
for almost 2 weeks.. Had tested & everything are back to normal. Had attached the job description for the EB.. Looks like
they have changed quite a no. of parts!!




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hi bro

i see there is a "to do recall campagin - reverse camera lcd"

so this is like a full recall excercise on all EB in the field?

just ignore the first number..its for cold weather rating

Hi Bro Tan,

Well i was informed that this is indeed a recall exercise. Whether it is faulty or not, it will be replaced
during servicing. I reckon the camera view on the mirror is better, in sense of parallel lines to the parking lines

I know. But what puzzles me is, Proton could have written it as 0W30, 5W30 and 10W30. But they did not, instead, they only wrote 10w30 (which is more likely to be Mineral rather than Semi or Synthetic). Furthermore, in the Lotus document, it was stated as "lower viscosity Mineral Oil" with no mention of Synthetic.

So my question is, why keep emphasizing or implying to use Mineral oil? This the part I am trying to work out.

i believe..this is minimum..means can use mineral
dont have to crack our head just because of this..just as long as XW30 should be ok..regardless mineral or full syn

hi bro,
thanx a lot for sharing this. will make sure they dun include unnecessary item during my 2nd service

btw, u bought ur car from dealer/eon/proton edar?

Did some search and it seems X1R contains high level of Extreme Pressure/Anti Wear additives ZDDP. If I wanted more ZDDP, I would simply use an API-SL rated oil instead of SM rated oil rather than getting it from X1R. SL rated oil has higher level of ZDDP than SM oil. In fact, this may be one reason why Proton/Lotus asked you to use Mineral Oil because the Mach 5 10w50 is SL rated.

By using the high ZDDP in X1R, you run the risk of killing your catalytic convertor much faster. The high sulfur in X1R will also kill your gearbox copper/bronze parts much faster also.

If I were you, I will insist the mechanic take the X1R out of the engine.


http://pub27.bravenet.com/faq/show.php?use...5418&catid=1397
I have not heard much about x1r so i decieded to try a little experiment. i use oil analysis on my truck and know what my oil additives, wear metals, and other basic levels run on the average. in talking with race car drivers and engine builders, they all laid claim as to how good this stuff really works. well here is what i come to learn from this experience. i run schaeffers 15w40 in my truck, at about 200 miles before i was to change my oil, i put a bottle of x1r in as directed from them. now since schaeffers already has an excellent barrier lubricant in the oil, i never noticed any difference when i put the x1r in. after 200 miles of normal use, i drained and pulled the sample. when the lab results came back my concerns were a reality. with 6600 miles on my oil the results showed my ep/antiwear (zinc/ph) levels really high (zinc-1180/ph-1078 norm would be around 730-850). also the detergents (cal) was through the roof at over 3660ppms (norm 730-850ppm). now what that did is elevate my oxidation level that was norm at 19 to a 33. i also found sulfur levels that was never a problem (always at 0 out of 100%) now at 30%. my viscosity level was higher than normal, (15cst) where as it would be around 13.47-14. my thought on this is, i will personally never run x1r in anything i own again. i can see where in a race application, this is an excellent way to add some extra protection but, then the oil is changed after a few races and race engines are subject to rebuilds more often than personal car engines so the oxidation doesn't have time to do any damage to the soft metals. with higher levels of oxidation, your soft metals would begin to show possible damage by using this technology in a conventional engine. my personal observation of the x1r additive is it's an overload of ep's z/ph and a high level of cal detergent that causes a rise in visc due to higher levels of oxidation. this has been my thoughts that an overload of ep including mos2 would cause oxidation levels to rise causing the visc to increase as well. another thing i find interesting is the x1r is an additive that is used in gear boxes, rearends, manual transmissions, and powerstearing units. as most of you know, all those applications haven't got the blowby gases in them like an engine produces and in gearboxes and rearends as well as other things, they are usually using a higher level of ep.since this is touted to be a versital additive from engine to rearend, it is using nothing more than the same basic additives in oils by overloading them. this is nothing more than a personal experience/opion of what i feel about this product. this isn't to say it can't be good, but i believe that in the average vehicle situation, i'd tread lightly when it comes to this and most other ep additives. bob
Category: OIL ADDITIVES

ya, i did some research long time ago, and came out to the conclusion that most additives are either useless or dangerous. just use good (& ori) oil + change oil on time. thats all.

except maybe for - lubegard

agree..regular oil change is the best

I don't use additives nor do I believe in using Synthetic oil because I don't drive a Ferrari nor living in Alaska. This "Synthetic last 10K but Mineral 5K" is the biggest load of rubbish around Malaysia but don't see that around in overseas forum.

i bought mine at Eon. n i bring my car to eon sc too. coz proton edar sc wont allow to bring my own oil.
feeling very sad now, paying extra money for unnecessary item and maybe will harm my engine....

This post has been edited by vinorgouki: Jun 8 2012, 12:34 PM

first and last bro..after this must insist no additive whatsoever

btw..just booked my exora..silver
maybank offer 2.83% 9 years
missed WWW

Does the service record shows you using your own oil? If yes, I wouldn't want to do that because of warranty issue.

the service booklet didnt record anything about using own oil.
the customer copy / receipt didnt show the item / price of engine oil.
the rest are same.

Agree with u.. I dun believe fully-syn engine oil be used for a new car as well.. But i do believed that fully-syn oil is more
superior than mineral engine oil..
As for me, I still stick to my dad's advice.. For normal use vehicle, clock approx 40k ~ 50k mileage per year, mineral
engine oil is used for (7~8 years). Follows by semi-syn oil (8~16 years). Then lastly fully-syn oil (17 years above old car).
I did asked him why, he said if u use fully-syn oil for a brand new car now, u will have no upgrading on later when the
engine gets old. Coz old engine needs more protection..

Cheers..

1 question,
izit normal for the underneath of my eb to have body color? (refer to pix)
wasnt it suppose to be black? this is what they call anti-rust, izit? sorry for noob question


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