Yeah possibly, sometimes there is a wiff of melted plastic, but goes away after afew mins.

Oh incase anyone is planning to print ABS, if you need to make ABS Juice/glue, thinner works well in the event you cant get your hands on acetone.


This post has been edited by KLKS: Jan 23 2015, 05:22 PM

Just ordered a Flame Red Flex Filament from Qwikfab as well. Hopefully it work smoothly on my printer.

It works on my printer but it can still buckle when printing too fast. My successful print speed was set to 40 mm/s for a 0.1 mm layer height print.

About Flexi filaments, I recently printed 2 sets of 36" GT2 timing belt and I haven't have the time to test it out. Anyone want to tryout the flexi filament printed GT2 timing belts? I can send it for free via poslaju express but you have to test it out with your reprep and let me know how it is.


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I just noticed a small problem with my printer, i tried printing a large square and noticed that the square isnt true. The layers all line up properly. I measured with an 90 degree L ruler and there is a small gap. I checked my X & Y belts for slop and they are fine. Any idea what else i can check for?

Hi,

I am interested in assembling or buying a 3d printer.
If possible, from taobao since I believe China should have the cheapest parts... Correct me if I'm wrong.
My aim is to set it up as cheaply as possible and possibly use it to provide 3d printing services for others. So, I might need the resolution to be quite high.

Technical problems either software or hardware is no problem.

Any suggestions?

Thank you!

Hi, KLKS
Would it be the frame of X-axis and Y-axis not square itself that we always don't have the proper tool to align while assembly?
Just curious too.

Hi, koonghx

I have not tried Taobao before, however there are few things to consider:
- Additional shipping cost
- Shipping damages/faulty parts
- Reliability study on other buyer comments
- Technical support from their community forum etc

Nowadays, everyone want the cheapest and the best quality of product.
But it always depends on your luck.
Lowest price I saw before is only RM1000, but I won't buy it.
Normal local kits would be around RM1400-2000, depends on the model/size you required.
For above RM2000, probably you won't consider to buy because you want the cheapest.
Bear in mind, cheapest is not the best; best cheapest is not easy to find.
However, "Everyone can 3D print at a cost!"
Hope you could buy and get shipped before April this year.

Welcome to the club!

If you going to provide 3D Printing services, I think you should invest a good printer such as Makerbot or Ultimaker. Reprap usually needs a lots of modding, fine tune and calibration, which repraper love its process of building it.

In terms of resolution, I assume most printer, even reprap can go up to 100micron. But even at same resolution, the printing quality will be varied depends on the printer itself (x-axis, y-axis, extruder, hotend, etc).

So, if you are maker who like to learn how to build your own printer, go for reprap. If you are aim for business purpose, go for off the shelf printer. Just my 2 cents.

Thank you for your reply.
The normal local kits that you mention, is it pre-assembled?
I'm thinking of assembling it myself. I had my hands dipped into bitcoin GPU mining last year and building it myself seems fun and I ought to be able to do it. I read a few posts before this that some forummers had some parts sourced from taobao, hence I asked about it. If there are local stocks for reprap parts, I would be happy if you could tell me some reconmendation.

Thanks!

I am fine with Reprap and build a whole unit seems to steal a lot of fun from it.
If I were to start with reprap, for the parts, are there any local source that I should know of?

Thank you!

depends where you live, I think most of the shop listed are from Klang Valley.
http://reprap.org/wiki/RUG/Malaysia#Local_Suppliers

i recall someone posted a listed as well in this forum.

not sure some of the part like hotend, ramps board, and polulu stepper motor controller is available local. i usually get it oversea. some of us get the parts from aliexpress also.

If you are getting a sort of skewed square (not true square) then it is likely due to the angle alignment between the X and Y frames. You might have to bend the X and Y frame so they are 90 degree adjacent to one another. You should get a set square as your 90 Degree reference when aligning the X and Y frames.

I agree with what cha.968 said about "Everyone can 3D print at a cost!". Its like a joke about Airasia, the more you pay, the better the service. The less you pay, the crappier the service. Also, the best cheapest may be out there but it is certainly not cheap in our currency.

You can jump right into the 3D printing business and provide the service to everyone but can everyone accept the service you are expected to provide?

My advice for a beginner is: go for a reprap, learn the necessary skill to operate and maintain a printer, get lots of experience from 3D printing hundreds of designs, learn to design your own 3D models, then after all that consider buying a good quality 3D printer and start your business. My 2 cents as a 3D printing service provider.

Also koonghx, welcome to the reprap forum, where we double as sources for sourcing 3D printer parts and support group...

The list of parts and links for sources are scattered across this topic. Have to go back several dozen pages to find them.

I got most of my stuff from Ebay, still alright but expect long shipping time.

This post has been edited by altan: Jan 25 2015, 09:20 PM

Day 2: Why 3D Printing Is Overhyped

Here is nice sharing online:

http://gizmodo.com/why-3d-printing-is-overhyped-i-should-know-i-do-it-fo-508176750

Excerpt from Nick Allen from gizmodo.com

Kits always refer to the parts supplied without assembled and tested.
You could refer to blomker.com if you are in Klang valley (mention me Cha recommended ); or 3dprinter.my if you are in Johor.
All the list of 3d printing in Malaysia, I did post before in post #345, dated Aug 7 2013.
https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/2249129/+344#

Thank you both for your friendly and warm replies. I will read up more on this.. Reprap seems to be on the top of my list right now. Going back overseas soon and hope to set it up before I leave til next year.

Morning guys!

I have finally managed to assemble my PRUSA i3 and get it to print but i have this very disturbing problem. The first time I switch on the printer, the RAMPS unit was producing white smoke! Yup! Scared the hell out of me. I switch off the printer immediately and found that the transistor which was hooked to the heatbed was the main culprit. It was too hot that it burned some plastic component near it. What i did was straighten the transistor so that it doesnt lean to any other component but looks like it is still too hot when its hooked up with the heatbed. When I unplug the heatbed from the RAMPS everything works fine.

Can anyone advice on what seems to be the issue here and what i should do about it???

Thanks in advance.

Managed to print a few stuff just for fun. 😝


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I'm having issue with my ramps. There's no power at my heater MOSFET after turning it on. It's fine when I touch the extruder heater to 12v source and able to read tempreture.

I'm using teacup.anyone know what when wrong? It was fine before I calibrate.

This post has been edited by feiming: Jan 26 2015, 11:27 AM

Is the thermistor working?

I am not certain. There seems to be only 1 line on the graph for temperature measurement and it is for the hotend thermistor so i assumed the heatbed thermistor is not working.

I think that could be the problem. It doesn't know the temperature and keep the power going