No not yet still waiting for parts to arrive from china.

the wavy lines on the X/Y axis are called ringing. Caused by lack of rigidity or a slack belt or springiness from mass acceleration. Back when i was doing machining, we get ringing too when doing heavy cuts. Its mostly due to rigidity issues.

Interesting was reading about it more and it seems going slower and lowering acceleration improves it.
Was reading a few more post and it was mentioned that the print bed in normal cartesian printers is also a factor. It rings as it changes direction as the print bed has quite a lot of weight to it.

https://ultimaker.com/en/community/3532-pre...r-sharp-corners

I really do think coreXY movements improves the performance of the print. With no moving motors and no moving print bed, I do think it will resolve all these issues.

some interesting article about Z axis artifacts

Taxonomy of Z axis artifacts in extrusion-based 3d printing

I think even with the corexy design it will not eliminate so called ringing or print artifacts caused by fast movement. The long length of GT2 belts used will stretch and compress with acceleration of the heavy extruder motor so ringing will still exist. There might be an optimum acceleration value but going slow is undeniably the best solution but in reality not worth the value. Another solution is to go Bowden but that will introduce even more problems and limit some materials. Take the Ultimaker 2 as an example in solving some of the issues with corexy design.

In case you didn't know the corexy was around a long time and was found in a children drawing toy called etch a sketch which uses wires instead of belts. Historically we should called it etch a sketch but corexy sounds nicer. Also, idk if anyone made a firmware for the corexy yet but I understand each energized steppers will move the end effector (the part that holds the extruder, correct me if I am wrong) diagonally and needs both steppers to move along the cartesian x and y axis.

I have been looking into this design for a long time since I saw someone made a small 3D printer with that setup. He had the platform on the xy axis and the extruder on the z axis. Anyway you should build one and tell us about it. I am building another using particle board/MDF and an incomplete Prusa i3.

It will not totally eliminate of course nothing is zero mass , but it will significantly reduce it. In a normal cartesian printer you have the bed mass and extruder motor weight to worry about. In a Core XY you only have extruder motor to worry about, so that's half of a factor removed. The bed mass is not exactly low, like mine I have the aluminium plate + pcb heatbed + glass weight to worry about that reduces your maximum speed you can go. You can imagine if the whole bed/aluminium/ glass moves at 150mm/s and then stops suddenly(deaccelerate),(eg:- when printing a box and reaching a corner). And it doesn't help when the whole heated bed is held by springs and screws, it sort of helps oscillation. Theoretically if you cut your moving mass by half, you can increase your acceleration by 2X and max speed by 4X.

The GT2 belt will also stretch but the amount being stretched(force) is proportional to the mass and acceleration. The lower the mass the less force it will impose on the GT2 belt and you can set higher acceleration values.

It's interesting that you mention ultimaker 2, initially i was planning on benchmarking with my office rm60k stratasys printer but looks like ultimaker2 is also a good choice to benchmark based on speed.

Why are you building an army of 3d printers?

This post has been edited by Drian: Mar 22 2016, 02:05 PM

Nice find, I just made a pdf of it

Sounds like everything you are searching for but I find the compilation a little outdated (even if it was updated this months but the sources are like 2014).

Technically cutting down mass can cut down on backlash, vibration, and such but that isn't the only solution. You could try getting wider belts that will cut down on the XY artifacting (wider belt, less elastic/stretching, less pressure over a larger cross sectional area).

That's why I mention Ultimaker 2 as a benchmark for desktop 3D printer (Makerbot is just an overglorified piece of ). Its a bit unfair to compare a commercial 3D printer to a desktop 3D printer since it like comparing airplanes to cars. Also, I don't have access to commercial grade 3D printers so the best I could compare to is an Ultimaker 2+ extended. Still Ultimaker also has its own set of problems, especially nozzle jams due to the bowden setup and running it too fast will introduce surface rippling. AFAIK, 3mm filaments are only used for Ultimaker and the more common 1.75mm filaments are more wide available. Even my filament supplier is phasing out 3 mm filaments.

Not really an army yet . More like a small specialist force.

Right now I am working with 5 different materials on one 3D printer (I swap hotends for each material: PLA, ABS, Flexible, Conductive PLA, and PETG), so now its a good time to expand my assets and dedicate one printer for PLA/Flexible/Conductive, a backup printer (in case too many orders), and one for ABS/PETG/Nylon with built in air filter/exhaust. I find the oil based thermoplastics environmentally unbearable

In case you didn't know, I run a small time 3D printing business, see my siggy below. Recently, too many orders coming in and my lead time went from 3 days to 8 days.

kenapa jadi macam ni, z atau layer yang masalah


Attached thumbnail(s)

Ada pic dari luar tak?

Nampak macam tak ada retraction.

Yang ini bahagian luar



Attached thumbnail(s)

bahagian dalam macam print terlalu cepat atau temperature kurang , selalu terjadi pada object saya (macam cone) apabila print terlalu cepat, bahagian luar macam overextrusion

Most of my order already arrived and my nema 17 is waiting for delivery after stepper motor arrived i can start build my xy axis

Picture of the hardware please

This is what i have and wait for stepper motor and i can control xy axis, right now i still use printed connector to connect the profile, will change after i decide what i should order again from ali

I really want to use 32bit controller but not enough budget to buy 1 yet so ramps and mega is for me right now

Really? Looks like the printer is trying and failing to bridge or something rather because of the excessive slope. If you see the problem only occured on the high slope side and it doesnt happen on the lower slope side.

Btw. cant u use one of these ? https://www.diy-india.com/shop/257-thickbox...t/l-bracket.jpg i've seen them around but i cant recall where (as always)

This post has been edited by izzudinhafiz: Mar 22 2016, 08:02 PM

I dont know, cause that what happened to my object if i print so fast on object like that, but my experience with 3d printing is not that long so i might be wrong, so more experience sifu like you should know more about something like that because if not for you i didnt know that i have banding problem on my printer.

I can use it and i already put something like that on my cart on aliexpress and wait for my coin is enough for aliexpress anniversary coupon

my goal is try building this printer as cheap as i can ofcourse not with shabby things
what do you guys thing using impregnated bronze bushing to replace lm8uu?

Nice, 32bit controller, you mean a Raspberry Pi? You can get a RPi zero for RM 30 like that . Element 14 and RS don't even stock it anymore.

No, i mean something like rambo or something similar like that

Umm, that is not a 32 bit microcontroller, its still an 8bit microcontroller.

If its integrated controller boards, there is the Sanguinololu (http://reprap.org/wiki/Sanguinololu) or the Printrboard. Also there is the Ultimaker PCB as well.

32 bit microcontroller is quite overkill for a 3D printer unless want to to setup a built in computer in the 3D printer, with OS, wifi, controller, and etc.

I would suggest using Octoprint, install OctoPi in a Rpi with Raspbian OS and hook it to your arduino ramps setup. Also you can attach wifi to the Rpi and have it run off a phone charger adapter. My current setup right now which makes printing very convenient over Wifi.

i guess you right i only use raspberry pi when i printing for someone and it took long hours to complete,