Congrate

show us the whole printer please

im still waiting for my other parts coming before i can start building

Going to post the rest of the pictures in Facebook around later in the afternoon. Still editing the pictures to look nice.

Short description, its a clone version of a Makerbot replicator but I am not too happy with the laser cut wooden frames they sent me in the kit.

I like the wood feel but the frames are badly warped on important pieces.

Whats your next 3D printer if you don't mind me asking

Isnt that the problem with wooden frame? Warpage due to moisture. Especially laser cut wood since they're thin. Is acrylic expensive to laser cut?

i didnt have a fb account can i still viewing it?

i build corexy like this



but a little bit modified on z axis.

at first i also think go for wood frame for cost, but i think wood will do something funny overtime so i decide to go with aluminum frame.
And i'll use acrylic to cover all side after complete the build, my plan is to build the printer slowly because i have so many time to spend to build this printer and watching anime

After that i find someone here in kuching who interest in my i3

This post has been edited by Prosperer: Mar 16 2016, 04:50 PM

Now onto the Z axis

anyone knows where to find lead screw?

Ya don't use wood. Even the aluminium extrusion don't use printed plastic L bracket to join them.
I've seen some people do that. It's pointless having a stiff aluminium profile being joint by some weak plastic.

Where do you get the rail?

Aliexpress, just search for MGN9C. Tonnes of hiwin clones out there. Priced reasonably at 16-20USD per rail .

I would probably go for MGN15 now if I can because of the extra width, I realised because the rail is only 9mm width it is able to fall sideways into the nut opening of the aluminium extrusion. Had to put a washer below it to prevent it from going into the aluminium extrusion gap.

This post has been edited by Drian: Mar 17 2016, 11:18 AM

awesome, and where do you get the L bracket, i still browsing for the bracket not yet buy anything to connect my frame

I bought mine from aliexpress.

However if you want cheap L bracket you can go to Mr DIY and get it really cheap like 5-6 ringgit or something like that for 10.
Problem is some of them are not exactly 90 degree so you probably won't be able to use some of them , maybe 3-4 pcs out of 10.

Noticed from your facebook that you printed using ninjaflex.

Do you think that it would make good motor dampers such as this ?

http://www.ultibots.com/nema-17-damper-astrosyn-my17rmdamp/

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1380368

Got link? i seems can't find the bracket that fit into the aluminum slot on aliexpress

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/50pcs-lot-D...2380750334.html

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/50PCS-L-Sha...2385164004.html

Yea, I do expect warping but not to a severe extend. I guess I wasn't lucky enough to get a nice piece. I have seen a wooden flash forge printer and those guys who maintain it was able to print in PC and the frames were not warped.

I am thinking of getting the melamine version which is actually particle board used in making low cost shelves. They claim it has no warpage but I think the strength is questionable.


I just check and yes anyone can view my Facebook, just click on the link in my signature below.


I would have gone for the aluminium extrusion/sheet or steel sheet if it was available but for a 450 dollars including shipping and tax, I just can't pass off this deal.

3D printed plastics isn't weak, rather its just flexible compared to metal which makes them not ideal frame/ joints. Acrylic flexes too, that's why I would avoid them for frames if possible. I have printed some U bars with PLA at 80% fill and 8 mm thickness, and these thing doesn't flex much but does twist radially by a lot. I think there must be a design that minimize the twisting effect. They are hard to break because the layers are on the longest length.

Yes I printed flexible fan mounts using FlexPLA and it keeps fan running smooth and quiet. I wouldn't use them on stepper motor since the footing would be loose. I wouldn't recommend Ninjaflex becasue it is very soft and stretchy, it's great for making flexible robot joints or grippy surfaces. FlexPLA is also flexible but much stiffer like rubberized phone cases. I would use that for generally anything and is slightly cheaper and more available than Ninjaflex.

On a side note, the printer I just built is producing wonderful results. I will post some pictures here once I get my spool holder done.

anybody here already make MPCNC?

Nope, you can try but you have to either source for 25mm linear rods or 25 mm aluminum tubes or conduits.

I think my other project after finished my second printer will be mpcnc, how your new printer? got ask replacement from folgertech for the wraped parts

Nope, didn't ask for the replacement parts but rather I gave them an honest feedback (no ranting, just pointing out stuff) and they gave me a $30 gift voucher. Can buy more stuff from them later. Considering getting another Cloner in Melamine and maybe an aluminum Kossel.

You can judge the print quality for yourself based on the attached pictures. I think its worth buying for the parts than the full printer itself.

I find the MK8 makerbot nozzle they provide is very good for bridging. The PLA doesn't sag at places unlike the J-Head nozzles.

Is the line show with the blue arrow normal cause my printer also sometimes got lines like that, and do you know what it called? and can we fix it?

I don't know what that is called

What I understand is that there is a slight under extrusion at certain layers, so they look like there are some minor voids making the layers discolored.

It is probably caused by the retraction parameters if turned on. I notice if the retraction distance or speed is set too high, it will pull in too much air into the melt chamber and mix with the melted plastic. Then when it extrudes, the air bubbles will cause voids in the layers. If the voids are seen on prints without any gap crossing, then its due to the moisture absorbed into the filament (happens for both PLA and ABS). You have to optimize the retraction setting by printing two cubes spaced apart so there is little stringing but doesn't pull too much air into the melt chamber.

Whether its normal or not, if it is little or not noticeable, then its fine but if there are a tons of voids, then that is not normal.