I have ideas of trying out dissolvable filaments but could not find a local supplier for both materials.

I don't know about printing in PVA but it is said PVA is really difficult to store due to the hygroscopic property, especially in our humid environment. Since support material not need to be nice but I wonder what the humidity can do to the material. Maybe it will cause the PVA to spit water vapour during prints.

It would be great support with PLA and Flexible filaments since they droop during prints. ABS bridging seems good without fan for me so I doubt it needs dissolvable support.

About storing filaments, I had issues with storing black ABS as it forms pores on the print surface due to water vapour. Apparently the black pigment is the cause as the pigment is hygroscopic. I have to bake the black ABS in an oven for a few hours just to improve the print quality.

i have a humidity chamber for my DSLRs. i've been keeping my filaments in there! they work great in stopping moisture ingress. you shud try getting a cheap one

Good suggestion, now need to clear some space and find one cheap one.    I thought of making a dry box using an array of thirsty hippo.

give it a whirl. Cost me nothing cause i already had it

Share picture bro or maybe link where you get it

PETG has higher working temp than PLA and does not warp compared to ABS. Apparently, it is claimed that it takes the best properties of both PLA and ABS while having high strength and flexibility.

You can read more about it by searching about Taulman Tech-G PETG filaments. There are some blogs and 3d news saying good things about it.
http://3d-printizer.com/blog/?p=268
http://3dprintingindustry.com/2015/10/30/t...ilament-tech-g/

I heard it is easier to print like PLA as compared to nylon and ABS but I have not tried them yet since I just got the filaments yesterday. So, I can't comment further on a material I just got but I have seen really impressive samples made with PETG.

Only cons is the difficult support removal.

Good suggestion, now need to clear some space and find one cheap one.    I thought of making a dry box using an array of thirsty hippo.

Do post a review.
Will probably need it when I'm done with the whole prototype.

Just finished my XY axis and now moving to Z axis.
Problem with hiwin rails is that there are not many designs out there using it and therefore have to design myself and I can't leech on anyone's design

Wouldn't it be easier just to use those vacuum bag from daiso and put it together with the thirsty hippo. Use the vacuum cleaner to suck the air out. No air , no chance for any moisture to get in.

14hrs printing with abs without bottom wrapping    really proud with my printer right now and it my first time printing something that take that long 

Really nice print there!  Is that a scanned model or hand modeled?

Your heated bed must have been set really high to minimize the warping. Does not appear to have used brim which I have to use in all my ABS print to prevent warping. 

Your 3D printer is enclosed in a box or was it printed in the open?

That is my customer uncle that he design i dont know with what program, he even show me the picture, and i glad it look the same

i set my heated bed 110C usually i print abs around 100-110C for longer print i choose 110C

my printer is open and i just block the back, upper and side with cardbox

That uncle must be a pro at modeling or he got someone to design it for him.

Lucky you can manage 110C unlike mine which maxes out to 90C in a really hot and unventilated room. 

I would have also thought of using cardboard as cover and heat insulator...

hahaha, i meant that the guy create the model is using zbrush( or something brush) if im not mistaken and he create his uncle 3d model for me to print

I already print 2 design for him and he said there more for me to print    and i hope he will become my regular customer

what printer do you use and why limit at 90C only? not enough amp?

edit: and my heat bed setting is cardboard that i wrap with aluminum foil below the heatbed itself in the middle and aluminum or glass platform above i can reach 100C in 5min if i cover all side of my printer except front side

Should be Zbrush, I don't know how to use that but I heard it's something to do with sculpting.

Good that you are getting regulars 

It's a Printrbot Simple Metal and the heatbed is a large heat sink causing the heat from the heater plate to disperse everywhere. If the room fan is running, I would max out to about 75C but without it its about 90C. I have a dedicated solid state switch with its own dedicated power supply for the heater bed but the internal resistance is higher compared to the MK2B heter plate. It takes me about 15 min to reach 90C. I thought of covering up with cardboard but my table is too small even for the printer itself. 

Do you install the heatbed on the pb metal?

i have a problem   someone just email me sketchup file and i use freecad for design my project and it can't import skp files, any easy way to convert skp file to stl file?

The heatbed is an addon, comes with a thicker aluminum bed.

Just like me, go get Sketchup. 

Maybe you should make heated chamber for your printer and of course all the electronic outside, maybe it will take less time and probably will go up to 100C
i already install sketchup with playonlinux but it too buggy so i rarely use it and the files i received earlier didnt even open when i import it, so i ask the sender send me other files with different extension .obj and .dae

Do you install the heatbed on the pb metal?

i have a problem   someone just email me sketchup file and i use freecad for design my project and it can't import skp files, any easy way to convert skp file to stl file?

Just a little 3D design quirk that I must share. There's a reason Sketchup doesnt export stl. STLs are solid data, called NURBS. Sketchup creates polygon meshes. Both of which are not the same thing. Yes you may be able to get away converting SKP to STL sometime. But any difficult or complex shapes may fail to correctly convert.

Just sharing in case you print for 15 hours and discover incorrect geometries. Learned this the hard way when trying to do windtunnel simulations with mesh data converted to STLs. Ended up chasing my own tail for weeks!