thanks for the input.

hi victor, may you list out class AB monoblock amps for SQ purpose? want to know more on their existence and see how poisonous are them..hehe

Tru Hammer H1!

u can try out the following - proven!

class AB monoblock
1. mcIntosh MCC301M
2. mcIntosh MC443M
3. Genesis Monoblock series III
4. TRU Hammer H1

note: there isnt many amps out there which are class AB monoblock at 300RMS@4ohm +/-. they are pricey and its a small market for it.
most of the monoblock in the market are class D.

hmm what about JL audio class AB monoblocks?

u r referring to low power class ab mono for jl audio.
its 150rms@4ohm. Can mostly drive entry to mid level sub onli.
Not bad for the price..we have it too

hello guys... I'm a total idiot and newbie on car audio system settings ): so I need some help on few question as I own myvi and myvi had very terrible sound system as everyone knows too.. My question is...

1)Do i really 100% need amp to change a new speaker? What if I use the same head-unit originally from myvi but I changed the speakers w.o amp, is it possible?

2)what are the brands of speaker out there that produce quite decent sound? (The sound that I was aiming for my car is not really for the boombastic kind but more to a normal listening but when there's bass, of course there must be bass and doesn't produce bass like playing it on milo tins , and no breaking sounds for sure . possible not over rm500 just for speakers xD )

3) If I'm changing speakers on front and rear... does that mean I have to ask them drill holes on the door?

Sorry that I'm such an idiot in this field T.T

This post has been edited by lovedivine: Sep 14 2011, 08:20 PM

Sifus, need confirmation

Song 1: Akon - Beautiful
Song 2: Tatanka - GTP (Technoboy Remix) or Carnifex - Fireflash

When I play song 1, the song sounds alright.
But when I play song 2, it felt like there's a delay between the kick and the bass. Is it supposed to sound like that? Because the music is produced out in that kind of way?

Still a beginner in ICE. I used to listen to these songs using a computer speaker(barely hear any bass). But in the car, its like I'm exposed to more frequencies of sound and bass

This post has been edited by ILikePie: Sep 14 2011, 10:38 PM

1) possible, mid bass will however be weak, and may not be up to your standards on SQ. again, personal preference. if ur songs all classical/sentimental with no regards to bass, this could work for you

2) HU in general look for alpine/pioneer, speakers you may look through this thread, post from me/zenn/howiechoo/mywifecar/carcrazy/crazychild/bafukie/krayden etc (in no particular order, and awesome people i missed out mucho apologies ya? no offense meant)

try to budget rm500-800 if ur doing ONLY speakers. that would set you just right to get a reputable brand entry level component set.

though since you mentioned bass, again, depend on your requirement. bass have mids/lows, for the lows, you 100% need a subwoofer and if you have a subwoofer, at least an amp (or monoblock) will be needed to drive it. please bear this in mind.

3) you dont need change rear, if can, throw away the rear or just use fader to make them really soft.
for mids, year most likely need to drill holes on your door panel to have a proper installation.

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Added on September 14, 2011, 10:55 pmcar speakers are generally "in your face" and theres no wide space (your room, vs car cabin) for sound to disperse properly and in the case of car cabin, sound will reflect from surfaces causing distortions or even noise

bad setup/installation, and/or bad ICE equipments, will lead to really unpleasant SQ or even SPL (to your ear drums mainly, it doesnt need to be car shaking, heck, if ur listening over 100 decibels at constant rate, dont be surprise if you go deaf)

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Added on September 14, 2011, 10:56 pmhaha see how for my future ride

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Sep 14 2011, 10:56 PM

It doesn't sound distorted or noisy. I did soundproof too. And I don't blass my sound system, I love my ears lol. So does that mean the music is produced in that way? (kick, then bass)

- distortions and noise could mean many things in audio world and the term itself is also very subjective

- sound proof doesnt solve sound waves bouncing around your car cabin

- dont have to *blast* your sound system to experience distortions or noise. the only difference between blasting and not is the higher your volume goes, the easier and noticeable flaws (distortion/noise and/or more etc etc) on your sound system are

sound re-production is not a a then b thing, all the drivers have to work together in harmony to produce accurate (and "insert positive audiophile term here") sounds. if you would like to know more, i would suggest google/wiki on "sound reproduction" or "speakers" with relevant sources/references/links/"see also" from them

For my ears, the sound suits me. Whether I'm listening to hardstyle, R&B or rock. Guess I need to learn more on sound production. Thanks

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Added on September 15, 2011, 1:39 pmTested on some friend's ICE and home audio. Sounds the same. What does that mean?

This post has been edited by ILikePie: Sep 15 2011, 01:39 PM

Quazacolt: Thanks for the advice (: But i do have another few silly question T.T What's the meaning of 2way in car speaker? And 3 way in car speaker? Example, I've seen pictures of 2way speaker, and they state rm499 for it but I was still wondering does 2 wayspeaker meaning that at rm499 i get a 1 small speaker & 1 bigger size speaker? instead of 2 small and 2 big?

And another thing is,
For my car, there's 2 speaker build in on top of the dashboard.. Is it recommended to use back there if i change them? Because I realise that MYVI is very fragile lol and so, if you build in all the speaker on the doors, I think the doors will start to banging Any recommendation or advice on this?

assuming your friend's ICE and home audio is good, setup/done properly, then perhaps the song is meant to be played that way.

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Added on September 15, 2011, 6:12 pm2 way = tweeters + mid bass
3 way = tweeters + mid + mid bass

you can move the old speakers to back, and control them via fader to not disrupt your front sound stage

doors only 1 mid bass each. and thats why we do sound proofing on door panels

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Sep 15 2011, 06:12 PM

oh okay, i think i know what i need or what to get already thank you very much for the great advice and patience towards my clueless-ness

hi i am new here... anyone can tell what the differences between passive set up and active setup up...

thanks

the most obvious difference is

passive = fixed crossover point and gain
active = adjustable crossover point and gain

of course there's some more difference except above, but u better understand these first.

in more laymen terms:

passive = set/tune 1 time and thats the end of the story, less headaches
active = option to tune it anytime you want, however, headaches as you may most likely be tuning it all day erry day

passive also ca play with other various settings.....eq, phase and etc......can make ppl headache also :>

thanks for your information & feedback ...