It looks like below..but as i know his rim is 15 inch one

Owh.... i stick back to my 17" hahahahaha

4g93t is the answer
at 6.5++kg, your 17" is a lightweight wheels. it was the tire diameter / wider contact that caused the slight increase in fc. any decrease in braking performance when carrying a heavy load?

was playing around with a few chips until i tested the unichip with gsrt ecu piggyback. the aggressive mivec top doesn't works well on single rail fuel feed. hence the custom made one. once the mivec feeding settled, it was easier on the piggyback. doesn't really open up like a complete mivec setup but at least, minimal intermittent.

If you have the mivec solenoid there i might able to create a mivec controller for you to merge with your ECU where you can control the mivec characteristic..

yup.. having a wider tyre diameter does have effect on FC.. my left front i think bocor beyond tampal.. so thinking of changing so wanna try 205/45/r17.. might wanna go for falken ziex.. and yes heavier load does decrease alot in braking.. that 6 people in the car.. i don't even go over 70km/h.. can really fell the worst braking performance.. twin-pot otw huhu.. donno when can fix to the car..
for 4g93t.. have to wait for awhile.. huhu

BorgWarner's new EFR turbos will be launched in three days time at SEMA autoshow

http://www.epmotorclub.com/index.php?topic=5991.0

this 1 very very dangerous....

currently out of budget to further mod my waja.
just spend a fortune on a 1jz-gte setup on main ride
look like i may let go off my old 16" gp wheels for extra funding.

falken 912 tread wear rate sux
but at least quieter than gsd3.
twin pot is the answer. that's the main reason i upgraded to twin pot front and gsr rear last time. was carrying 3 fat relatives from kampar to kl. 1st time braking i almost hit the car in front. car did not stop a normal braking style... and they warn me not to play around when in fact it was the lousy brake.

nice! but am already on old borgwarner s256 (waja) or something...

My waja 4g18 seems like mis-fire whenever my speed is around 70-90km/h.. Sometimes it started as early as 50km/h..
The mis-fire never happen when I let go my pedal to let it deaccelerate on its own from 90km/h

Before this happened, I only changed my 3pcs of Engine Mounting that is Front, Rear, and the one on the Gearbox Side. I even remove the battery to get the mouting replaced. Then I also used WD-40 to spray on the throttle valve and clean up by a cloth.

After that mis-fire comes in, I first replace the spark plugs. Problem not solved. Then I replace the fuel filter (I shake the fuel filter and pour out some brownish petrol). But till now the problem still occur.

Will it be the problem cause by disconnecting the battery terminal that makes the ECU or something else gone crazy??
Anyone please help~~

This post has been edited by king_coolice: Oct 28 2010, 11:54 PM

And so i'd suggest you try a bottle of threebond to clean up the wd40 first. Check my signature

and the reason is? do you mean that the wd-40 had clogged my intake system or injectors?

finally, i managed to sell off my LCP. i have bought 2 lcps for this waja, crazy...

This post has been edited by tjroy: Oct 29 2010, 04:53 PM

LOL... my upgrade spree for my car has been delayed by Nokia N8

today go search for tyre.. and can't seems to get the series i wanted.. actually 205/45/r17 not within my budget.. but bought 215/45/r17 azenis instead..

This post has been edited by mao2: Oct 29 2010, 07:56 PM

surfing mudah.com for waja accecories, then found this advertisement:



really can do this kind of modification just for rm1400??? recommended or not coz i'm going to do engine overhauled soon...or should i proceed with this conversion??

This one busted long time liow.... The cam timing all lari where can match with our crank. The ratio also different where you get your powerband early and end early too.. the rest of the power is residual power from the early torque. Most of the people after convert they will notice the power very weird when climbing the hill, they got power at low RPM but not high which you cant maintain your power at mid rev.

They felt the power good is because the timing is more advanced after replacing the crank sensor. It is very hard to reflash those car that converted the head to DOHC because the timing cannot match real time.
RM1400 is a waste. even there is a few guy posted before wanna to sell the head for rm 300 but swap with ori.

ic...thnx bro for ur warning......nice to have all the waja sifu here, easy to get good advice

knight kriss, why do you wanna overhaul?

if overhaul... better balance the engine up to 8k RPM and make it high compression by over size piston muahahahaha then flash a disaster rom edit by Elton and Steven....

hi,everyone......I'm waja owner ....
anybody know how to change the waja key light bulb....my waja keylight there no light le
(sorry,my english not good,hope all of you can understand me say what) thanks you


this picture me get from internet (not waja de)

This post has been edited by evolution10: Oct 30 2010, 04:27 PM