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 The suiting thread v2

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TSjind86
post Apr 21 2010, 07:38 PM, updated 16y ago

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There's just something about a suit which is so empowering, and ladies just love men in suits..
Here we talk anything and everything about suits suits and suits..
Post up pictures of you in your suit.. Accompany pictures with as much information as possible..

Here are details on how to buy a suit:

http://www.gq.com/how-to/fashion/200608/ho...-suit-slideshow

http://www.bnet.com/2403-13068_23-212782.html

http://www.luxury-insider.com/columns/Pete..._Breasted_Suit/

If you'd like a well-fitted custom-made suit at a reasonable price, read here: http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/1351948

v1: Suits (clothing) and others
kotmj
post Apr 21 2010, 07:48 PM

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Let me be the first to piss here...piss...this is my territory now.
crapoccur
post Apr 21 2010, 08:27 PM

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Hopefully someday we'll catchup with the OT thread..
silencer
post Apr 21 2010, 09:15 PM

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wow...a new thread.....here i am to stay....
Neek
post Apr 21 2010, 10:13 PM

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4th! Altho i dun contribute much tongue.gif
kotmj
post Apr 21 2010, 10:30 PM

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Someone should go buy this.

http://cgi.ebay.com/KID-MOHAIR-WOOL-SUITIN...=item519212d3f2


Added on April 21, 2010, 11:13 pmThat navy DB is a seriously beautiful garment. Very sculptural. Definitely not Malaysian. He just doesn't wear it that well.

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/a/a9/NJBB.JPG

This post has been edited by kotmj: Apr 21 2010, 11:15 PM
GrIM
post Apr 21 2010, 11:32 PM

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Hi guys,

Im interested in making my own suit. KOTMJ gave a few pointers and naturally i followed the lead.

Sorry for being ignorant but would a super 120's wool be more comfortable or wool mix with kid mohair?

Currently im thinking of either this:

100% Super 120

KID-MOHAIR-WOOL-SUITING

Also the reason why im picking only black is simply because of my profession and it being my first suit made. I will definitely have others made in the future.

last question, would 3.2 meters suffice for a height of 173cm? or better to get 3.5m? Thanks smile.gif
kotmj
post Apr 21 2010, 11:49 PM

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You work as an undertaker?
GrIM
post Apr 21 2010, 11:51 PM

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lol, definitely not. Im a litigation lawyer and it being my first suit..i would like to get a general day to day suit done, hence black. Maybe dark grey would be ok as well.

This post has been edited by GrIM: Apr 21 2010, 11:54 PM
cocopops
post Apr 21 2010, 11:51 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Apr 21 2010, 11:49 PM)
You work as an undertaker?
*
or maybe loyar?


Added on April 21, 2010, 11:54 pm
QUOTE(GrIM @ Apr 21 2010, 11:51 PM)
lol, definitely not. Im a litigation lawyer and it being my first suit..i would like to get a general day to day suit done, hence black. Maybe dark gray would be ok as well.
*
don't you hate being dressed in black/white everyday?

i do...

why not try dark navy?

This post has been edited by cocopops: Apr 21 2010, 11:54 PM
GrIM
post Apr 21 2010, 11:55 PM

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Well, black/white i guess is just our uniform...so to speak

kotmj
post Apr 21 2010, 11:57 PM

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http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Court_dress

Black seems to be an option, but if an advocate it has to be paired with grey striped trousers. Otherwise a "dark" suit, which means charcoal I suppose. Not quite black, but nearly.


Added on April 21, 2010, 11:59 pmSeems to be three options

1. black jacket + grey striped trousers
2. dark 3-piece sb
3. dark 2-piece db

This post has been edited by kotmj: Apr 21 2010, 11:59 PM
GrIM
post Apr 22 2010, 12:02 AM

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I Lol at that wiki article. I have seen QCs before, i doubt its a compulsory court attire to wear grey striped trousers.

Anyway i digress. Back to my question please?
Would a super 120's wool be more comfortable or wool mix with kid mohair? Any of the materials shown in my above post any good?

This post has been edited by GrIM: Apr 22 2010, 12:03 AM
kotmj
post Apr 22 2010, 12:06 AM

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depends on your perception of comfort. for me, comfort in the malaysian context means something cool. but both silencer and walnek think of comfort as pliancy and softness. you will not find any of the two in kid mohair. but you will get coolness, especially with the right lining.

for softness and a luxurious feel, go for a high super number.
GrIM
post Apr 22 2010, 12:16 AM

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Thanks for the clarification, kotmj. Appreciate it.

Hmmph, i think i will go for the mohair as walking around in a black suit in the hot afternoon malaysian sun is pretty shitty..

Guess i will get the 70% WOOL/30 % SUMMER KID MOHAIR fabric.

silk lining would be the best choice right? Also would 3.2 metres be adequate for for a height of 173cm? Thanks
kotmj
post Apr 22 2010, 12:20 AM

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yeah, 3.2m ought to be enough for your height. the best lining would be ermazine.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Apr 22 2010, 08:23 AM
walnek
post Apr 22 2010, 04:34 PM

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Wow, a new thread. It has been a long while since I last visited this site. Extremely busy with work.

Jind, are you planning to get the ermazine lining soon? Please let me know, hopefully latest by this weekend (the earlier the better). If not, I'll arrange for some other means.

Kotmj, I'll probably be heading over to ALT's on Saturday, but most likely late evening, being the last hour of his opening hours seeing that I have some unavoidable things to tend to.

Silencer, when do you plan to collect your Zegna 3p suit? I saw it there last weekend when I dropped off my fabric, pretty much in the same state as the week prior to.
silencer
post Apr 22 2010, 06:43 PM

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QUOTE(walnek @ Apr 22 2010, 04:34 PM)
Wow, a new thread. It has been a long while since I last visited this site. Extremely busy with work.

Jind, are you planning to get the ermazine lining soon? Please let me know, hopefully latest by this weekend (the earlier the better). If not, I'll arrange for some other means.

Kotmj, I'll probably be heading over to ALT's on Saturday, but most likely late evening, being the last hour of his opening hours seeing that I have some unavoidable things to tend to.

Silencer, when do you plan to collect your Zegna 3p suit? I saw it there last weekend when I dropped off my fabric, pretty much in the same state as the week prior to.
*
Wow walnek,u still haven't purchase the lining! About my suit,told alt not to rush it as I plan to commission my zegna navy suit in the same day I'm collecting the suit. And, alt is kinda busy too with so many order. The initial plan to go alt to see kotmj linen jacket on this Saturday had to be cancelled as I need to depart to NY on tomorrow evening. Sigh.....

This post has been edited by silencer: Apr 22 2010, 06:47 PM
kotmj
post Apr 22 2010, 06:46 PM

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This bulk order thing can be quite simple:

You give the article number and full description and quantity. Organiser collects all the orders, and then finds items and puts them in his shopping cart. He then proceeds to checkout without actually checking out, so he may see the quoted shipping. He then splits the shipping cost based on quanity ordered and sends each party the sum he has to pay. They pay. Organiser then does the checkout with his credit card. Shipping address could be ALT, and each party can pick it up there or just have AL store them until they are ready to bespeak their suits.

The organiser should preferably be someone who has prior contact with AL, if ALT is to be the shipping address.

Othwise get silk haboutai locally or Bemberg Ambiance through myvoguefabrics or something like that.
silencer
post Apr 22 2010, 06:53 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Apr 22 2010, 06:46 PM)
This bulk order thing can be quite simple:

You give the article number and full description and quantity. Organiser collects all the orders, and then finds items and puts them in his shopping cart. He then proceeds to checkout without actually checking out, so he may see the quoted shipping. He then splits the shipping cost based on quanity ordered and sends each party the sum he has to pay. They pay. Organiser then does the checkout with his credit card. Shipping address could be ALT, and each party can pick it up there or just have AL store them until they are ready to bespeak their suits.

The organiser should preferably be someone who has prior contact with AL, if ALT is to be the shipping address.

Othwise get silk haboutai locally or Bemberg Ambiance through myvoguefabrics or something like that.
*
Kotmj,based in your previous posting, u still favour the ermezine instead of bemberg ambiance. What is your opinion of bemberg cupro if compared with ermezine.
kotmj
post Apr 22 2010, 07:00 PM

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Bemberg is just the type of fiber. How this fiber is woven into cloth is even more important. Which is why I said "Bemberg Ambiance". Ambiance is the cloth, Bemberg the material. Ermazine is the cloth, viscose the material.

I don't think Ambiance is as breathable as ermazine. Ambiance is much lighter, it weights almost nothing. But isn't as sheer as ermazine. It is closely woven. It is very soft and luxurious, like silk charmeuse, unlike ermazine which is more synthetic in feel. But AL says the ermazine is a sturdy lining.


Added on April 22, 2010, 7:04 pmHey silencer, Manton gets a lot of his cloths from Tip-Top in NYC. It's supposed to be quite cheap.


Added on April 22, 2010, 8:05 pm
QUOTE(walnek @ Apr 22 2010, 04:34 PM)
Wow, a new thread. It has been a long while since I last visited this site. Extremely busy with work.

Jind, are you planning to get the ermazine lining soon? Please let me know, hopefully latest by this weekend (the earlier the better). If not, I'll arrange for some other means.

Kotmj, I'll probably be heading over to ALT's on Saturday, but most likely late evening, being the last hour of his opening hours seeing that I have some unavoidable things to tend to.

Silencer, when do you plan to collect your Zegna 3p suit? I saw it there last weekend when I dropped off my fabric, pretty much in the same state as the week prior to.
*
You might want to give AL your camera and get him to take pics of you. Front, side, back. He has lower standards about fit than me.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Apr 22 2010, 08:05 PM
terencetoo
post Apr 22 2010, 10:44 PM

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Ohh Yes....Im going for my first fitting on Sat @ Bespoke 1U
Cant hardly to see the masterpiece ......smile.gif excited yet worry the outcome~

This thread is growing fast man! u guys really make suit once a month? biggrin.gif
kotmj
post Apr 22 2010, 11:23 PM

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What sort of cloth did you go for? Did you go for the extra features like working cuffs and pick stitching?


Added on April 23, 2010, 12:03 amWalnek:

1. Try sitting down in your new trousers. Do you feel the fork cutting into your family jewels? (Tell him you plan on having children later.) And the thighs: Are they too constricted by the trousers? Are the trousers too tight around the waist? AL likes to cut very tight fitting trousers. I suggest you try side adjusters (no belt loops). Most people have never tried them. And let him make the pants very short, like just touching your shoe. This will be the last time you'll see your pants before they are done. Mine never has any back pockets.

2. Wear your favourite shirt and a good pair of dress shoes to the fitting. Essential.

3. Use your forefinger and press on 6 points along the shoulder seam. Every point should have your flesh directly below it, none should be unsupported.

4. Make sure the lapel crease on both sides are not jutting out. They should be very close to your chest. Use a finger and press on the opening of the lapel, where your shirt shows. Gap between lapel and shirt should be minimal, about 4mm at most.

5. Make sure the jacket collar grips your shirt collar. Zero gap.

The others are visible and should show up in the photos.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Apr 23 2010, 12:51 AM
kneok
post Apr 23 2010, 10:43 AM

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QUOTE(GrIM @ Apr 21 2010, 11:32 PM)
Hi guys,

Im interested in making my own suit. KOTMJ gave a few pointers and naturally i followed the lead.

Sorry for being ignorant but would a super 120's wool be more comfortable or wool mix with kid mohair?

Currently im thinking of either this:

100% Super  120

KID-MOHAIR-WOOL-SUITING

Also the reason why im picking only black is simply because of my profession and it being my first suit made. I will definitely have others made in the future.

last question, would 3.2 meters suffice for a height of 173cm? or better to get 3.5m? Thanks  smile.gif
*
GrIM: which firm whistling.gif
walnek
post Apr 23 2010, 11:04 AM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Apr 22 2010, 11:23 PM)
What sort of cloth did you go for? Did you go for the extra features like working cuffs and pick stitching?


Added on April 23, 2010, 12:03 amWalnek:

1. Try sitting down in your new trousers. Do you feel the fork cutting into your family jewels? (Tell him you plan on having children later.) And the thighs: Are they too constricted by the trousers? Are the trousers too tight around the waist? AL likes to cut very tight fitting trousers. I suggest you try side adjusters (no belt loops). Most people have never tried them. And let him make the pants very short, like just touching your shoe. This will be the last time you'll see your pants before they are done. Mine never has any back pockets.

2. Wear your favourite shirt and a good pair of dress shoes to the fitting. Essential.

3. Use your forefinger and press on 6 points along the shoulder seam. Every point should have your flesh directly below it, none should be unsupported.

4. Make sure the lapel crease on both sides are not jutting out. They should be very close to your chest. Use a finger and press on the opening of the lapel, where your shirt shows. Gap between lapel and shirt should be minimal, about 4mm at most.

5. Make sure the jacket collar grips your shirt collar. Zero gap.

The others are visible and should show up in the photos.
*
This should be stickied too. Thanks mate for taking the time to do a checklist. I still hope that I can make it tomorrow, if not, it will be delayed for yet another week.
kotmj
post Apr 23 2010, 06:54 PM

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Oh no! My linen jacket will not be ready tomorrow! AL says Monday.

:sob:


Added on April 23, 2010, 7:55 pm
QUOTE(walnek @ Apr 23 2010, 11:04 AM)
This should be stickied too. Thanks mate for taking the time to do a checklist. I still hope that I can make it tomorrow, if not, it will be delayed for yet another week.
*
This is just the stuff that do not show up in pics.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Apr 23 2010, 07:55 PM
silencer
post Apr 23 2010, 08:25 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Apr 23 2010, 06:54 PM)
Oh no! My linen jacket will not be ready tomorrow! AL says Monday.

:sob:


Added on April 23, 2010, 7:55 pm
This is just the stuff that do not show up in pics.
*
Business is booming at alt....
Kotmj...will check out tip top...I thought it is only wellknown for vast selection of shoes....
kotmj
post Apr 23 2010, 08:33 PM

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That's what he told me too. "Very busy these few days."

I wanted to give him my Bemberg lining on a Sunday evening. Just drop it into his postbox, I thought.

I went there, but could see no postbox, but AL was at the cutting board hand-sewing something. At 10 pm on a Sunday.

He came out and took the lining from me.
silencer
post Apr 23 2010, 09:59 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Apr 23 2010, 08:33 PM)
That's what he told me too. "Very busy these few days."

I wanted to give him my Bemberg lining on a Sunday evening. Just drop it into his postbox, I thought.

I went there, but could see no postbox, but AL was at the cutting board hand-sewing something. At 10 pm on a Sunday.

He came out and took the lining from me.
*
U mean at 10pm.....wow....the area looks a bit scary for me at nite time....omw to klia
kotmj
post Apr 26 2010, 11:02 PM

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I hope my dear esteemed friend Calvin approves of the notch style...

user posted image


Added on April 26, 2010, 11:28 pmMore pics tomorrow. One a day until end of week. This jacket is incredible. The best so far.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Apr 26 2010, 11:28 PM
bloke1
post Apr 27 2010, 12:19 AM

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Yes. Most exerent.
kotmj
post Apr 27 2010, 08:37 AM

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user posted image
malutapimau
post Apr 27 2010, 09:12 AM

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this is killing me
bloke1
post Apr 27 2010, 12:34 PM

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Unbutton those!
kotmj
post Apr 27 2010, 02:37 PM

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Why do you keep asking me to unbutton my clothes?
Grimm
post Apr 27 2010, 02:59 PM

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Real crazy people... you guys make how many suits in a month? biggrin.gif
kotmj
post Apr 27 2010, 03:45 PM

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user posted image
bloke1
post Apr 27 2010, 04:36 PM

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Wait, that PS looks very familiar...


Added on April 27, 2010, 4:37 pm
QUOTE(Grimm @ Apr 27 2010, 02:59 PM)
Real crazy people... you guys make how many suits in a month? biggrin.gif
*
I can only afford to make one every few years.


Added on April 27, 2010, 4:59 pmuser posted image

I'm okay with the rest apart from the sleeve length.


Added on April 27, 2010, 5:02 pmI'm not sure about the unlined back. It seems that your shirt and all the seams are very visible even though you're wearing a light shirt.

This post has been edited by bloke1: Apr 27 2010, 05:02 PM
kotmj
post Apr 27 2010, 05:58 PM

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Damn you, Calvin.


Added on April 27, 2010, 6:02 pmWRT the sleeve length: AL says the sleeves will wrinkle like the bellows of an accordion, and will thus ride higher with wear.

I have seen RLPL linen jackets with similarly see through backs. It is unavoidable and part of the look.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Apr 27 2010, 06:48 PM
bloke1
post Apr 27 2010, 08:26 PM

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I'm now convinced that a pair of unlined linen pants in beige(sans back pockets) can be very sexy.
kotmj
post Apr 27 2010, 09:37 PM

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As odd trousers or part of a suit?

And again, damn you Calvin. May your navy suit turn out all wrong.
kotmj
post Apr 27 2010, 09:41 PM

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Attached Image Attached Image Attached Image
bloke1
post Apr 27 2010, 09:50 PM

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Odd trousers would show the contour lines of my jockstraps perfectly.

Oh, thanks for the cussing. You've reminded me of my first appointment with him next Saturday.

This post has been edited by bloke1: Apr 27 2010, 09:51 PM
kotmj
post Apr 27 2010, 10:00 PM

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i cant belive you merely have "no problems" with the jacket. admit it is incredible!


Added on April 27, 2010, 10:10 pmuser posted image

This post has been edited by kotmj: Apr 27 2010, 10:10 PM
bloke1
post Apr 27 2010, 11:18 PM

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Now I'm starting to feel the quarters are too open.
kotmj
post Apr 27 2010, 11:27 PM

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The quarters are perfect and you know it. (Silencer and walnek will recall how I communicated to AL about them.) I have now started loving the single button silhouette. It makes the coat so symmetrical. From now on, either one button or three. Never two again.

user posted image


bloke1
post Apr 27 2010, 11:38 PM

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OK. The shape of those buttonholes is erm... let's talk about it some other time since you're very self-absorbed at the moment.
kotmj
post Apr 27 2010, 11:42 PM

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The buttonholes need improvement. I think the problem is with either the gimp or the seamstress.


Added on April 27, 2010, 11:46 pmHave you inspected your MBT du jour's buttonholes?

BTW, neither silencer nor walnek understand this obsession with buttonholes one bit. They think you're loony.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Apr 27 2010, 11:46 PM
bloke1
post Apr 27 2010, 11:48 PM

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Finally! I'm very positive that MBT can deliver awesome looking buttonholes this time. His last attempt using lousy thread and gimp...
user posted image

I have OCD.

This post has been edited by bloke1: Apr 27 2010, 11:50 PM
kotmj
post Apr 27 2010, 11:52 PM

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AL needs to fire his seamstress. Unfortunately she is his younger sister...


Added on April 27, 2010, 11:55 pmWere you serious about those quarters? You cannot be. They form a nice symmetrical X shape with the lapel opening.


Added on April 27, 2010, 11:56 pmuser posted image

This post has been edited by kotmj: Apr 27 2010, 11:56 PM
malutapimau
post Apr 28 2010, 09:58 AM

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i think alt buttonholes are nice and acceptable,,,,we dont have to pursue perfection everytime
the last thing we want people to label us when they see teh clothes we wear is to call us perfectionist

attention to detail is good thing, but sometimes too perfect seems unnatural
Grimm
post Apr 28 2010, 12:05 PM

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Everyone here is unnatural to me =X
kotmj
post Apr 28 2010, 12:21 PM

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QUOTE(Grimm @ Apr 28 2010, 12:05 PM)
Everyone here is unnatural to me =X
*
Good, then fark off and go back to wearing your black polyester RTW.


Added on April 28, 2010, 12:27 pm
QUOTE(malutapimau @ Apr 28 2010, 09:58 AM)
i think alt buttonholes are nice and acceptable,,,,we dont have to pursue perfection everytime
the last thing we want people to label us when they see teh clothes we wear is to call us perfectionist

attention to detail is good thing, but sometimes too perfect seems unnatural
*
I think we all pursue excellence here. Otherwise we wouldn't spend so much time discussing clothes. Beautiful buttonholes are quite a thing to behold. They're like hand-blued watch hands. When done right they are incredible.


Added on April 28, 2010, 1:29 pmuser posted image

This post has been edited by kotmj: Apr 28 2010, 01:29 PM
bloke1
post Apr 28 2010, 01:32 PM

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QUOTE(malutapimau @ Apr 28 2010, 09:58 AM)
i think alt buttonholes are nice and acceptable,,,,we dont have to pursue perfection everytime
the last thing we want people to label us when they see teh clothes we wear is to call us perfectionist

attention to detail is good thing, but sometimes too perfect seems unnatural
*
Unlike machine-made buttonoles, hand-made buttonholes must never be perfect. I call them Shibui. There is apparent difference between buttonholes made by an amateur and a master. A master is most exrent.


Added on April 28, 2010, 1:35 pm
QUOTE(kotmj @ Apr 28 2010, 12:21 PM)
...
Yawwn. Next!

This post has been edited by bloke1: Apr 28 2010, 01:35 PM
kotmj
post Apr 28 2010, 02:58 PM

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Damn you. Stole my thunder.


Added on April 28, 2010, 6:25 pmuser posted image


Added on April 28, 2010, 8:14 pmuser posted image

This post has been edited by kotmj: Apr 28 2010, 08:14 PM
malutapimau
post Apr 29 2010, 06:28 AM

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nice big patch pockets,,,,,,very unique

QUOTE(bloke1 @ Apr 28 2010, 01:32 PM)
Unlike machine-made buttonoles, hand-made buttonholes must never be perfect. I call them Shibui. There is apparent difference between buttonholes made by an amateur and a master. A master is most exrent.
thats what i said
kotmj
post Apr 29 2010, 10:16 AM

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So far, nobody has surpassed GDT's buttonholes...
user posted image
bloke1
post Apr 29 2010, 12:57 PM

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QUOTE(malutapimau @ Apr 29 2010, 06:28 AM)
nice big patch pockets,,,,,,very unique
thats what i said
*
Hand made ones are not perfect however they can be close to perfect when done right.


Added on April 29, 2010, 12:59 pm
QUOTE(kotmj @ Apr 29 2010, 10:16 AM)
So far, nobody has surpassed GDT's buttonholes...
user posted image
*
People in the past are really good with their hands.

This post has been edited by bloke1: Apr 29 2010, 12:59 PM
crapoccur
post Apr 29 2010, 01:30 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Apr 28 2010, 02:58 PM)


Added on April 28, 2010, 6:25 pmuser posted image

*
Are those green pants? And nice shoes btw.
kotmj
post Apr 29 2010, 10:39 PM

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Those pants are the grey ones AL made for me.

Shoes are a pair of vintage Cheaney's I bought off ebay.


Added on April 30, 2010, 12:08 amMichael Alden's linen DB. Notice that he likes his sleeves relatively long (he even said why once).

user posted image

user posted image

This post has been edited by kotmj: Apr 30 2010, 12:08 AM
xecton
post Apr 30 2010, 12:39 AM

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I went for my first fitting earlier tonight....
I chose what I understood to be charcoal gray, but it looks like black now that it's been made into a suit (compared to the small little piece of sample cloth)

Here's some badly taken pictures, edited to show more.

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


Comments please.
crapoccur
post Apr 30 2010, 12:56 AM

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The sleeves are too long in the 2nd pic, but seems to have been corrected in the last pic. Your shirt is too big for u btw, or was it the tailor's shirt?
I would ask for smaller armholes, or higher (seems to be the more often used term).
For some reason the back looks really bulky.. hmm.gif
Grimm
post Apr 30 2010, 10:59 AM

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Somehow it looks weird...
Maybe its the design.

And I just don't think higher armholes would suit his built.

xecton
post Apr 30 2010, 11:22 AM

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QUOTE(crapoccur @ Apr 30 2010, 12:56 AM)
The sleeves are too long in the 2nd pic, but seems to have been corrected in the last pic. Your shirt is too big for u btw, or was it the tailor's shirt?
I would ask for smaller armholes, or higher (seems to be the more often used term).
For some reason the back looks really bulky.. hmm.gif
*
Yes, the last picture is after we discussed what I want for the suit.
The shirt is mine, made by the tailor and indeed too big. I've already asked him to make it smaller.
I noticed the weirdness of the back as well, hopefully the alteration will make it looks better.

I think the tailor made everything bigger as a safety, rather than smaller and unable to correct them later.

QUOTE(Grimm @ Apr 30 2010, 10:59 AM)
Somehow it looks weird...
Maybe its the design.

And I just don't think higher armholes would suit his built.
*
Can you pin down the weirdness so that I might have them corrected?
bloke1
post Apr 30 2010, 01:03 PM

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Very weird pinning. I've never seen anything like this.
kotmj
post Apr 30 2010, 01:17 PM

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Xecton, let me guess at what you told the tailor:

More waist suppression
Shorter jacket
Narrower lapels

According to my suit ideals (since I don’t know yours), your tailor got two of them right. The lapels are beautiful the way he made them the first time: generous and nicely bellied. I wish AL made mine this way. I would give him a call to revert them to the original. The modification you asked for makes the lapels look out of whack: too thin on too big a body and head.

The jacket length started off plausible but ended up comically short. You need to understand that for a suit to remain classic, you do not have much latitude in the measurements. We’re talking 0.5” more or less here and there, not the 2.5 inches you got your tailor to take up the jacket. I’m not able to judge the jacket length because there is no full body shot (which includes the shoes) of you wearing the jacket. It is related to your height. I would ask the tailor to adjust the length to his liking, then reevaluate at the second fitting. Have it shorted by 0.5” then if you wish. The way it appears in the final pic, it is several inches too short.

You will notice that your cuffs peek out more on one arm than the other. Ask him to adjust each sleeve individually. Assure him it is OK for the jacket sleeves to be of slightly different lengths. Ah Loke cringed when I told him that.

You’ve instructed him to suppress the waist, so we shall see how he does it. I would take in the waist by at least 1.5” then reevaluate at the second fitting.

I would also redo the quarters. I would ask him to make them so open that the lower button cannot actually be buttoned. Notice that the tailor assumes you would button the lower of the two buttons. Tell him nobody does that nowadays, that he should go out more and read more GQ like Jind86 and that he should make them part like Moses the Red Sea. The quarters should begin to part at the first button. By the time they reach the lower button, they are 0.5” or more apart. This will be difficult for your tailor to grasp, so be compassionate.

There is also a fit issue with the upper back. There is too much cloth there, causing the drape you see. Ask him to take it in at the center back seam to make the upper back (around your spine) smooth. It should be more than 0.5” from what I can see. Any excess cloth should be limited to the armscye region, not the spine region. Don’t overdo it though. Raise your arms forwards, like reaching for a steering wheel and see if it is too tight.

The shoulders are very heavily padded and look unnatural but are not too objectionable. I don’t know how (or if) you want to deal with this because it is difficult to communicate and execute properly. I had a huge argument with my tailor about shoulder padding. He now makes them for me by hand instead of using pre-made ones. Maybe you can suggest this to your tailor. Thin bits of wadding, hand padded. Just enough to smooth over your shoulder without raising it too much.

There is also no horsehair that I can see. At the very least ask him to put horsehair canvas in the lapels for the padded lapel construction. If he is Cantonese, tell him you want a “sang” [lively] lapel and not “thong sei” [ironed to death]. For me, it makes a big difference.

Once he suppresses the waist, I expect more fit issues to turn up. Waist suppression makes fit more critical. The reason why many tailors get by with no or one fitting is because they make these stupid sack cuts (like your tailor) which drape down loosely and vertically from the shoulders. It’s like a baju melayu with shoulder and chest padding. But the moment you want a shapely jacket, multiple and very careful fittings become necessary because then you are sculpting cloth.

I would also have the trousers shortened by 2”.
bloke1
post Apr 30 2010, 01:23 PM

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Where's the gorge? Is it really that high up?
kotmj
post Apr 30 2010, 01:23 PM

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I was looking for it too, lol!
xecton
post May 1 2010, 11:33 AM

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Actually, at the last pictures the tailor had thinned down the right shoulder pad. The left is still there at full force.
kotmj
post May 1 2010, 11:49 AM

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Can't tell the difference man.
kneok
post May 1 2010, 09:06 PM

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hi guys. went to my first fitting for my suit today by accident. i didnt know it was ready for fitting, i dropped by because i came to discuss something else. the shoulders are too big and too wide and also the length. i asked him to reduce the length by 3/4 inches, smaller and higher armholes and also to pull in the shoulders slightly by half an inch. comments?

user posted image

user posted image


kotmj
post May 1 2010, 09:33 PM

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Pics are too big, can you pls size them down a bit? Thx.
alfredfx
post May 2 2010, 12:12 AM

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thinking to get a suit from wardrobe .. do you think its a good idea ?
crapoccur
post May 2 2010, 12:52 AM

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The one in...pavilion? Give it a try and let us know.. smile.gif
xecton
post May 4 2010, 12:32 AM

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2nd and last fitting.

My shirt
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


Suit
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


Back
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

specopsmarines
post May 4 2010, 08:45 PM

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The back looks kinda weird D:
kotmj
post May 4 2010, 09:16 PM

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It's OK for a first attempt.

You've asked for the jacket to be lengthened, yet it still looks short, for reasons I can just vaguely guess at. Maybe it is the lack of skirt flaring? Maybe because your trousers have a very low fork? Maybe it needs another 0.5"? I wouldn't know.

The quarters remain unchanged from last time. Well, A&S does them that way too, and some like the aesthetic.

The sleeves are cut badly, very badly. The worst I've seen so far. Look at the incredible bunching of cloth at the back of your sleeves. I've never seen cloth look this unhappy.

The trousers are still too long. Look at how my trousers touch the shoe. No bunching at the bottom.

user posted image

No matter how you look at it, there is too much drape at the upper back, and there are balance issues at the lower back. It is too "crooked".

Look at this guy's back and compare it with yours

http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=90990

His is smooth and clean and taut. That's what you want. Yes, it is tough to achieve this. Which is why a clean back is a hallmark of really good tailoring. (I believe he had 5 fittings to achieve this.)

The good news is, it will look much better once made up. Once the fusing and ironwork goes in, you'll look great in the mirror. And you'll look just great to most people. Few people worry about the last couple of percent of perfection like I do.
terencetoo
post May 8 2010, 12:57 AM

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Hey guys, was kind of bzz lately.

Here goes for my 1st fitting at Bespoke by Ian Chang biggrin.gif

Im not a very well versed when it comes to those clothing/cutting names but i trust Jerrick did his job well.
He answered most of my questions and provided good reason what can be done and what cant where the outcome will be in perfect slim fit.

Made a double-breasted suits with 3 piece full wool black suit + vest + trousers + 2 shirts with French Cuff [ 1x wing tip & 1x standard collar.]

I'm not a tall guy so he did consider some adjustment to make it look more comfortable.

Thing that he adjusted:
1) Slightly higher cut for the pants [ to show more V shape]
2) Slimmer shoulder pad [Readjust shoulder pad to bring up the skirts flaring]
3) Slightly shorter suit length [ just a minor cut to show more legs]
4) Slightly tighten the waist to have better shape
5) Trousers are just nice touching the shoes with no extra drape
6) Sleeves are just nice, not too long when i lift up my arm am still able to have a min length till my watch level. [No extra cloth falling down]
7) My sleeve from my left hand is slightly shorter due to my watch lifting up the excess cloth that causes my right sleeve shows slightly longer but this can be adjusted by pulling abit of sleeve out from my left hand.

As per photo shooting showing with slightly dim environment could not show perfectly how the suit look like. Hope u guys can throw in some feedback.

user posted image
Shoulder Pad seems to fit me well~ and will he cut slimmer if my memory serve me right.
user posted image
Full view from behind.
user posted image
Sorry for the bright pic. The environment is too dim...i got to edit the pic to brighten up the Exposure so that u guys can see the suit
user posted image
Front view

Final fitting will be 2 weeks time smile.gif

kotmj
post May 8 2010, 11:39 AM

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Looks very good overall, especially for a noobie and a first suit at that. Very clear pictures too.

The back needs a little bit of work. I doubt though that they will do anything. I think it will be left as it is. Which is a pity because it is very little work and would make the jacket among the best from a Malaysian tailor.

I would like the sleeves longer -- too much cuff showing now.

Great jacket, really. Maybe you can show Jerrick a pic of my back. He will understand instantly and he will give it to you.


Added on May 8, 2010, 11:45 amThese guys have a thoroughly modern cut. Enough drape behind the armscye to allow for movement. Sleeves done well. Collar grips the neck. Lapels not too narrow. Trousers not ridiculously long.

Compare them to other tailors and you realise just how much more sophisticated Bespokkt is.

kotmj
Marketing and Communications
Bespoked Group of Companies
comprising Bespoked
and ALT

This post has been edited by kotmj: May 8 2010, 11:45 AM
terencetoo
post May 8 2010, 12:23 PM

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hi kotmj,

yeah Jerrick is going do some minor "pulling" for the back...i wonder what is call...
And i miss that he's going to do smaller "a bit" for the armhole to look more prefect.

Regarding the sleeve, i was going through Version 1 for the thread...and was told that sleeve goes a little shorter will be great? oh gosh...i think is not too bad at the moment.

Anyway thanks for the feedback kotmj. i may use some of your suggestion on AL customization for another suit in this month.

Hope the whole set comes in prefect look. Will post up more pics on the final collection.

Guess doing a suit need alot of expertise smile.gif

This post has been edited by terencetoo: May 8 2010, 12:28 PM
bloke1
post May 8 2010, 12:43 PM

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Eh? I don't see any canvassing?
kotmj
post May 8 2010, 05:39 PM

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Only Ah Loke uses horsehair. And that only by special request.
bloke1
post May 10 2010, 12:42 PM

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Navy suit first fitting scheduled on the 26-28th this month.

The waistcoat will be a DB 6 button, pointed bottom, no breast pocket, peak lapels
bloke1
post May 10 2010, 04:56 PM

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I want kotmj to sniff, lick, touch and caress this!

[attachmentid=1569145]

This post has been edited by bloke1: May 11 2010, 01:03 PM
crapoccur
post May 10 2010, 07:30 PM

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Your floormat?
bloke1
post May 10 2010, 07:36 PM

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QUOTE(crapoccur @ May 10 2010, 07:30 PM)
Your floormat?
*
I don't know what are you trying to say.
crapoccur
post May 10 2010, 07:41 PM

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that fabric looks like floormat fabric..or is it supposed to be prince of wales checks? lol
bloke1
post May 10 2010, 07:44 PM

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What the hell? No man should step on any POW check. Blasphemy!


alfredfx
post May 10 2010, 07:55 PM

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normally how long does it take to get a suit tailored ?

do you think 3 weeks are sufficient ?
crapoccur
post May 10 2010, 08:13 PM

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QUOTE(bloke1 @ May 10 2010, 07:44 PM)
What the hell? No man should step on any POW check. Blasphemy!
*
biggrin.gif My bad, the way its stacked really looked like floormats.

Its a great find, deets on the fabric? Were there other colors of PoW checks where you found it?
kotmj
post May 10 2010, 08:14 PM

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pow must be another polyester number


Added on May 10, 2010, 8:21 pmbut sure, if you insist i can seed it.

This post has been edited by kotmj: May 10 2010, 08:21 PM
bloke1
post May 10 2010, 08:21 PM

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Stop being a wet blanket! I just don't understand you SF people! Why hate polyester? My dad used to have polyester pants made and it wears very well. And don't talk about heat when you can even stand for hours wearing jeans.
kotmj
post May 10 2010, 08:27 PM

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I received a wedding invitation from a friend yesterday. He says to dress "formally" in the colours of the wedding invitation card.

The card is beige.
crapoccur
post May 10 2010, 08:28 PM

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hey loke, actually i am looking for some polywool pow checks for pants..where to find?
kotmj
post May 10 2010, 08:28 PM

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You don't have to inform me of poly trousers. I have one from G2000 and I wear it often. Just ribbing you.
bloke1
post May 10 2010, 08:29 PM

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You can start rumpling your linen jacket now.


Added on May 10, 2010, 8:35 pm
QUOTE(crapoccur @ May 10 2010, 08:28 PM)
hey loke, actually i am looking for some polywool pow checks for pants..where to find?
*
Don't ask me. I got mine at a night market.

This post has been edited by bloke1: May 10 2010, 08:35 PM
silencer
post May 11 2010, 12:34 AM

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Wow..it has been so long..finally back from the duty..but my suit is still not ready...ouch
walnek
post May 11 2010, 01:14 AM

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QUOTE(silencer @ May 11 2010, 12:34 AM)
Wow..it has been so long..finally back from the duty..but my suit is still not ready...ouch
*
Welcome back, mate. And yes, I saw your jacket hanging at the back of his work desk. Though he did mention that he would be getting on to it soon when I was there mid last week.

How was the big apple? Anything fancy you brought home?
bloke1
post May 11 2010, 03:58 PM

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Bought a pair of Star side buckles for RM2 from the haberdasher. It's called 'lou yan kau' in Canto.


Added on May 11, 2010, 4:27 pmI went to another MBT this time for my kaPOW pants. He's an 80 year old man who works at home. Reluctant to open the door at first but finally give in.

Deets of kaPOW pants
-Single forward pleat
-1.5" cuffs
-2.5" extended waistband
-Side buckles


This post has been edited by bloke1: May 11 2010, 05:00 PM
kotmj
post May 11 2010, 09:40 PM

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Wah that haberdasher thong sei lei. RM1 a pair at Malaysia's largest button shop.


Added on May 11, 2010, 9:47 pmI think you meant lou yan KHAU. Kau would be glue.


Added on May 11, 2010, 9:59 pmThe largest button shop has these STAR buckles in chrome, brass and blue steel. I bought chrome and brass.

This post has been edited by kotmj: May 11 2010, 09:59 PM
silencer
post May 11 2010, 11:41 PM

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QUOTE(walnek @ May 11 2010, 01:14 AM)
Welcome back, mate. And yes, I saw your jacket hanging at the back of his work desk. Though he did mention that he would be getting on to it soon when I was there mid last week.

How was the big apple? Anything fancy you brought home?
*
Bought another Navy Zegna and black Armani fabric. It was darn cheap. Might be going for fitting for my Navy fabric next week. Been thinking on trying the Bespoked for my black Armani. I need more suits.... business is finally getting better this year..so lots of traveling in the coming months..... cry.gif
alfredfx
post May 12 2010, 12:03 AM

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what is navy zegna and black armani fabric ? where to get them ? how much ?
if you send them to armani, how much they charge for workmanship ?
silencer
post May 12 2010, 12:07 AM

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QUOTE(alfredfx @ May 12 2010, 12:03 AM)
what is navy zegna and black armani fabric ? where to get them ? how much ?
if you send them to armani, how much they charge for workmanship ?
*
Bought it in oversea...i believe they r also available here...kotmj...pls correct me if I'm wrong.....by the way..the linen jacket..is awesome..i wish alt can do the same for me...

send them to armani???? I cannot afford it at all.....just sending to home-based local tailor......
bloke1
post May 12 2010, 11:31 AM

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I never knew Armani made fabrics.
kotmj
post May 12 2010, 09:08 PM

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Please just ignore this super low IQ "alfredfx" guy. Pestered me with some very low quality questions and showed no ability to understand simple things. I think his IQ is 60 or 70.


Added on May 12, 2010, 9:12 pm
QUOTE(bloke1 @ May 12 2010, 11:31 AM)
I never knew Armani made fabrics.
*
That's because you're a small timer.


Added on May 12, 2010, 9:23 pm
QUOTE(silencer @ May 12 2010, 12:07 AM)
Bought it in oversea...i believe they r also available here...kotmj...pls correct me if I'm wrong.....by the way..the linen jacket..is awesome..i wish alt can do the same for me...

send them to armani???? I cannot afford it at all.....just sending to home-based local tailor......
*
I'll be breaking in the linen jacket this Sunday at an afternoon wedding banquet.

I misstated things earlier: The wedding card had elements of pink and light green. So I'll wear a light pink shirt I collected from MBT3 the past weekend, and a green tie and pocket square both from Daiso.

I'm now living in Anggerikville, so plan to drive to a particular port town this Sat to sniff out exceptional tehlers.

This post has been edited by kotmj: May 12 2010, 09:27 PM
alfredfx
post May 12 2010, 11:42 PM

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thanks for your comment Mr Kotmj, i guess you are proud with your so call high IQ. I hope you are all rounded with high IQ.
bloke1
post May 13 2010, 12:09 AM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ May 12 2010, 09:08 PM)

I misstated things earlier: The wedding card had elements of pink and light green. So I'll wear a light pink shirt I collected from MBT3 the past weekend, and a green tie and pocket square both from Daiso.

I'm now living in Anggerikville, so plan to drive to a particular port town this Sat to sniff out exceptional tehlers.
*
I hope you don't mean a solid green tie.
xecton
post May 13 2010, 12:52 AM

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Talking about ties, what sort of tie goes well for an almost black suit?
What colour, pattern?
crapoccur
post May 13 2010, 12:58 AM

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QUOTE(xecton @ May 13 2010, 12:52 AM)
Talking about ties, what sort of tie goes well for an almost black suit?
What colour, pattern?
*
Practically all ties can go with an almost black suit.
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post May 13 2010, 09:49 AM

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QUOTE(alfredfx @ May 12 2010, 12:03 AM)
what is navy zegna and black armani fabric ? where to get them ? how much ?
if you send them to armani, how much they charge for workmanship ?
*
Almost all designer brands have their own in house fabric. But some of these fabric could be made by another factory for one reason or another. The fabrics like Zegna can be bought at Euro Moda or Gulatis. These shops are in Jalan TAR KL. You cannot just send a fabric to any Armani store or Zegna store and ask them to make suits out of them. Usually they have times in a year for special fittings from highly select tailors using their own in house fabrics. Priced run from few thousand to five figures. During this times, you can see the big spenders come for fittings. Unless you have a lot of 5 figures to spare for a few suits, its definitely out of reach to most people.

Zegna, Armani and such does not do tailoring in the boutiqes. But if you are in the country where the main store is, they do accept orders. But then you aleady paid a few thousand to fly there. Or you would like to pay more to fly them here? rclxub.gif


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post May 13 2010, 11:57 AM

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QUOTE(netmatrix @ May 13 2010, 09:49 AM)
Almost all designer brands have their own in house fabric. But some of these fabric could be made by another factory for one reason or another. The fabrics like Zegna can be bought at Euro Moda or Gulatis. These shops are in Jalan TAR KL. You cannot just send a fabric to any Armani store or Zegna store and ask them to make suits out of them. Usually they have times in a year for special fittings from highly select tailors using their own in house fabrics. Priced run from few thousand to five figures. During this times, you can see the big spenders come for fittings. Unless you have a lot of 5 figures to spare for a few suits, its definitely out of reach to most people.

Zegna, Armani and such does not do tailoring in the boutiqes. But if you are in the country where the main store is, they do accept orders. But then you aleady paid a few thousand to fly there. Or you would like to pay more to fly them here? rclxub.gif
*
Zegna do tailoring but they would not accept fabrics, you got to use their own they have an in house tailor which is well trained . another store that has an in house tailor is Canali,They are both Malaysians and they do have some excellant quality in them. price starts from RM9000 for a suit and RM 5000 for a sport jacket, if you have more money to burn you can wait for Angello Petrucci from Brioni's who should be down in September, prices start from RM 25000 for a suit and if you are lucky he might throw in a shirt or a tie. It would take between 2 weeks to 2 months for a complete suit it depends on how much they love you! simply means how much you have burn there!

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post May 13 2010, 07:32 PM

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wow. thanks for the info.
kotmj
post May 13 2010, 09:28 PM

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QUOTE(bloke1 @ May 13 2010, 12:09 AM)
I hope you don't mean a solid green tie.
*
Light green with small mustard paisleys.


Added on May 13, 2010, 9:29 pm
QUOTE(alfredfx @ May 13 2010, 07:32 PM)
wow. thanks for the info.
*
And what are you going to do with the info? How does it help you? Does it even help you? Is anything capable of helping you?


Added on May 13, 2010, 9:31 pm
QUOTE(sliver2c @ May 13 2010, 11:57 AM)
Zegna do tailoring but they would not accept fabrics, you got to use their own they have an in house tailor which is well trained . another store that has an in house tailor is Canali,They are both Malaysians and they do have some excellant quality in them. price starts from RM9000 for a suit and RM 5000 for a sport jacket, if you have more money to burn you can wait for Angello Petrucci from Brioni's who should be down in September, prices start from RM 25000 for a suit and if you are lucky he might throw in a shirt or a tie. It would take between 2 weeks to 2 months for a complete suit it depends on how much they love you! simply means how much you have burn there!
*
If I'm not mistaken, both houses only do MTM, not bespoke. And if SF reports are anything to go by, there is no "successful" MTM. They are all technically unsatisfactory.

This post has been edited by kotmj: May 13 2010, 09:31 PM
alfredfx
post May 13 2010, 10:22 PM

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i am learning and who knows when i will have the chance to use it?

or do you think i am a poor guy who doesnt have a chance to wear suit ?

what is the problem with learning common knowledge ? weirdo

last time i never thought of remembering name of management from annual reports, and now i need to remember them because i often meet them up. isnt it too late ?
bloke1
post May 13 2010, 10:24 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ May 13 2010, 09:28 PM)
Light green with small mustard paisleys.
EW

I'm going to try single inverted pleats and an extended waistband with pointed end for my 'linen' pantaloons.
malutapimau
post May 14 2010, 08:48 AM

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will it has belt loops?

This post has been edited by malutapimau: May 14 2010, 08:48 AM
netmatrix
post May 14 2010, 11:20 AM

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QUOTE(sliver2c @ May 13 2010, 11:57 AM)
Zegna do tailoring but they would not accept fabrics, you got to use their own they have an in house tailor which is well trained . another store that has an in house tailor is Canali,They are both Malaysians and they do have some excellant quality in them. price starts from RM9000 for a suit and RM 5000 for a sport jacket, if you have more money to burn you can wait for Angello Petrucci from Brioni's who should be down in September, prices start from RM 25000 for a suit and if you are lucky he might throw in a shirt or a tie. It would take between 2 weeks to 2 months for a complete suit it depends on how much they love you! simply means how much you have burn there!
*
Ahhh.... i forgot about Zegna in KLCC. I almost always forgot they have a bunch of tailored stuff hanging back there for clients. Say... Silver2C, didn't you asked us to group tailor some suits in Zegna or Brioni way back last year?
bloke1
post May 14 2010, 01:18 PM

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QUOTE(malutapimau @ May 14 2010, 08:48 AM)
will it has belt loops?
*
Hate loops
sliver2c
post May 14 2010, 05:25 PM

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QUOTE(netmatrix @ May 14 2010, 11:20 AM)
Ahhh.... i forgot about Zegna in KLCC. I almost always forgot they have a bunch of tailored stuff hanging back there for clients. Say... Silver2C, didn't you asked us to group tailor some suits in Zegna or Brioni way back last year?
*
It was brioni, keen to do this year? i received an email from him saying he will be down somewhere in June, I wont be making any suits but if anyone is keen do let me know.


Added on May 14, 2010, 5:28 pm
QUOTE(kotmj @ May 13 2010, 09:28 PM)
Light green with small mustard paisleys.


Added on May 13, 2010, 9:29 pm
And what are you going to do with the info? How does it help you? Does it even help you? Is anything capable of helping you?


Added on May 13, 2010, 9:31 pm
If I'm not mistaken, both houses only do MTM, not bespoke. And if SF reports are anything to go by, there is no "successful" MTM. They are all technically unsatisfactory.
*
you are right both zegna and canali are MTM, but I am a very satisfied customer of Brioni and I swear by it if my pocket permits if not I stick to my loyal and humble tailor Rashidi!

This post has been edited by sliver2c: May 14 2010, 05:28 PM
kotmj
post May 14 2010, 09:32 PM

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Do you guys actually go into these severely expensive boutiques? I feel hesitant to do so because I know there's no way I'll be buying anything there.

I mostly just look at their window displays.
crapoccur
post May 14 2010, 09:38 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ May 14 2010, 09:32 PM)
Do you guys actually go into these severely expensive boutiques? I feel hesitant to do so because I know there's no way I'll be buying anything there.

I mostly just look at their window displays.
*
ditto. if i see something nice, i'll look for the version without the branding tongue.gif
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post May 14 2010, 09:41 PM

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This is the thread I was looking for:

http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=174955

This post has been edited by kotmj: May 14 2010, 09:46 PM
netmatrix
post May 15 2010, 12:22 AM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ May 14 2010, 09:32 PM)
Do you guys actually go into these severely expensive boutiques? I feel hesitant to do so because I know there's no way I'll be buying anything there.

I mostly just look at their window displays.
*
Depends. if they have something i really really want. I shall skip the suits as i can say, i will never ever look good in them since i don't have mannequin body. rolleyes.gif
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post May 15 2010, 12:59 AM

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huhuhu...going to collect my suit at alt this morning...hope he is also ready for the 1st fitting of my navy suit....seems like i am short 0f 5 small buttons for my waistcoat...as I bought the larger size....thinking on getting the same color button at Jln TAR..but it seems like only kotmj knows where exactly is that so called "kedai butang" ...
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post May 15 2010, 05:37 PM

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Silencer, ask AL to source the waistcoat buttons for you.

I am in Coffee Bean Cap Square now, and about to get AL to make me a pair of trousers and a shirt.

I was in a certain port town this morning and went to all the tailors there. I come to realise now that only a few tailors in KL practise "fine" tailoring --- the others make stuff for peasants, i.e. farmers.

I've not yet found a better pair of trousers than what AL makes. Also, while Ron has a more sophisticated cut for his shirts, AL's workmanship is sublime and Jermyn Street worthy. People like ISTT, MBT2, and MBT3 (which is located very near to ALT) simply cannot match this level of tailoring.

This post has been edited by kotmj: May 15 2010, 05:53 PM
walnek
post May 15 2010, 08:39 PM

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As a matter of fact, ALT is indeed Jermyn Street worthy. I just gave him one of my Charles Tyrwhitt shirts for altering (even for slim fit shirts, the chest's too big, and the armhole too low) and from what I saw so far after picking it up last night was good. One thing I noticed different from his shirt compared to those I have is that the cuffs are extremely stiff. Will it soften after a number of washes?

I saw your suit sitting majestically in the shop last night, Silencer. I'm sure you will like it.
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post May 15 2010, 09:14 PM

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Went to AL just now. To spare himself from having to listen to my Cantonese, he brought out a bag of Jermyn Street stuff (Hilditch & Key, Thyrwhitt, etc.) that a Mat Salleh left to have repaired. He said he will make my shirt like those, and that the collar will NOT be fused. He said he used to make them that way, but that since the introduction of fusing, the shirtmaker complains that no fusing is more work, so he bought a collar machine from Singapore and has been fusing happily since.


Added on May 15, 2010, 9:17 pmThat bag had some really old shirts. One was from 1989. The collars were all worn, and he was asked to replace them with similar cloth.


Added on May 15, 2010, 9:26 pmI wouldn't know about the cuffs, I asked for everything to be supersoft the last time.

This post has been edited by kotmj: May 15 2010, 09:26 PM
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post May 15 2010, 11:05 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ May 15 2010, 05:37 PM)
Silencer, ask AL to source the waistcoat buttons for you.

I am in Coffee Bean Cap Square now, and about to get AL to make me a pair of trousers and a shirt.

I was in a certain port town this morning and went to all the tailors there. I come to realise now that only a few tailors in KL practise "fine" tailoring --- the others make stuff for peasants, i.e. farmers.

I've not yet found a better pair of trousers than what AL makes. Also, while Ron has a more sophisticated cut for his shirts, AL's workmanship is sublime and Jermyn Street worthy. People like ISTT, MBT2, and MBT3 (which is located very near to ALT) simply cannot match this level of tailoring.
*
Thanks kotmj, AL told me that he is expecting the same color of horn buttons to be sent from Spore next week....going to commission 3 dress shirt with stay and french cuff at alt sometimes this month...when I'm back from fabric shopping in NY again- Im in luv with Zegna clothes.......


Added on May 15, 2010, 11:08 pm
QUOTE(walnek @ May 15 2010, 08:39 PM)
As a matter of fact, ALT is indeed Jermyn Street worthy. I just gave him one of my Charles Tyrwhitt shirts for altering (even for slim fit shirts, the chest's too big, and the armhole too low) and from what I saw so far after picking it up last night was good. One thing I noticed different from his shirt compared to those I have is that the cuffs are extremely stiff. Will it soften after a number of washes?

I saw your suit sitting majestically in the shop last night, Silencer. I'm sure you will like it.
*
I'm in luv with my 3 piece Zegna suit from alt.....will post the pictures when I have the time... going to wear it next friday during the signing ceremony of S&P agreement of takeover of GLC at Mimos...I hope my Zegna Navy suit will be ready for the upcoming BOD meeting....

This post has been edited by silencer: May 15 2010, 11:08 PM
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post May 15 2010, 11:53 PM

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He'll have horn buttons and ermazine lining soon because he will carry the full range of Dugdale cloth and trimmings soon. One of few in Malaysia (Bespoked, of course, is the other. No really, I'm serious) and the first too.

QUOTE

Added on May 15, 2010, 11:08 pm
I'm in luv with my 3 piece Zegna suit from alt.....will post the pictures when I have the time... going to wear it next friday during the signing ceremony of S&P agreement of takeover of GLC at Mimos...I hope my Zegna Navy suit will be ready for the upcoming BOD meeting....
*
I wonder how many long-legged models have been sent to how many hotel suites to sit atop execs to get this deal to happen...

This post has been edited by kotmj: May 16 2010, 03:29 AM
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post May 16 2010, 08:31 PM

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Gentlemen, I went to the much anticipated afternoon wedding reception today.

Almost every suit was black.

Never wear a tie to a banquet like this. I dipped mine in a very nice sauce. Thankfully, it's only a Daiso number.

People asked me about my pocket square. They wanted to know what it was. "What is that in your pocket?" I had to demonstrate to a table how to stuff a PS a la Michael Alden.

My jacket made an impression on all. "How many suits do you actually have?" I was asked. "Here comes the Man of the Year" said another. "Very nice," said the groom. I did not hear remarks made about the other suits, and almost every male was wearing one.

My jacket did not rumple as much as i would like. It still looks kinda tame.

Thankfully, nobody there reads this thread. I live in fear of someone coming up to me and asking, "Excuse me, are you kotmj?"

This post has been edited by kotmj: May 16 2010, 08:34 PM
silencer
post May 16 2010, 08:42 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ May 15 2010, 11:53 PM)
He'll have horn buttons and ermazine lining soon because he will carry the full range of Dugdale cloth and trimmings soon. One of few in Malaysia (Bespoked, of course, is the other. No really, I'm serious) and the first too.
I wonder how many long-legged models have been sent to how many hotel suites to sit atop execs to get this deal to happen...
*
hmmm..... icon_question.gif
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post May 16 2010, 11:27 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ May 16 2010, 08:31 PM)
Gentlemen, I went to the much anticipated afternoon wedding reception today.

Almost every suit was black.

Never wear a tie to a banquet like this. I dipped mine in a very nice sauce. Thankfully, it's only a Daiso number.

People asked me about my pocket square. They wanted to know what it was. "What is that in your pocket?" I had to demonstrate to a table how to stuff a PS a la Michael Alden.

My jacket made an impression on all. "How many suits do you actually have?" I was asked. "Here comes the Man of the Year" said another. "Very nice," said the groom. I did not hear remarks made about the other suits, and almost every male was wearing one.

My jacket did not rumple as much as i would like. It still looks kinda tame.

Thankfully, nobody there reads this thread. I live in fear of someone coming up to me and asking, "Excuse me, are you kotmj?"
*
Stalker alert.
crapoccur
post May 17 2010, 01:14 AM

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Oh, what colour pants did you wear with the linen jacket?

kotmj is much better than h*mo..
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post May 17 2010, 07:35 PM

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QUOTE(crapoccur @ May 17 2010, 01:14 AM)
Oh, what colour pants did you wear with the linen jacket?

kotmj is much better than h*mo..
*
user posted image

This was the inspiration (though whoopee was wearing flannel):
Attached Image

But I could have also done it this way if I wanted to (mannequin to the left):
Attached Image

This post has been edited by kotmj: May 17 2010, 07:36 PM
crapoccur
post May 17 2010, 11:31 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ May 17 2010, 07:35 PM)
But I could have also done it this way if I wanted to (mannequin to the left):
Attached Image
*
Your jacket would look great with a pair of jeans, even better than the former pic tbh..
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post May 18 2010, 10:09 AM

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This ones for this thread.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PNOG3XIX4Xg&feature=fvsr


kotmj
post May 18 2010, 01:41 PM

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QUOTE(crapoccur @ May 17 2010, 11:31 PM)
Your jacket would look great with a pair of jeans, even better than the former pic tbh..
*
Well, the dress code was "formal".
xecton
post May 19 2010, 11:12 AM

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I've gotten my suit from the tailor.

Everything seems to be fine (as far as I can tell) except that the bottom half of the jacket seems to be "floating".
It gives me a bigger belly that what I already have sad.gif
I think this is due to me asking the for a smaller waist, which is what the tailor not used to do.

I actually noticed something wrong on my 2nd fitting, but thought that it was due to the adjustments and pins.
Mentioned it to the tailor too, but he said not to worry, it'll be alright once its done.
I guess not.....

Anyway, I asked him to slim down the side of the jacket.
Faced a lot of opposition, since its already a finished suit. Lots of work needed to be done to take apart the jacket.
Hope it works.


» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

No picture taken, cause I thought I'll be taking it home.
This is the previous picture with highlighted problem area.
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post May 19 2010, 08:01 PM

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No idea what you're referring to with floating. Might be skirt flare.
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post May 19 2010, 10:04 PM

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My "So you want to get a suit made" sticky is about to have been read 1000X.

A celebration of some sort is in order.
xecton
post May 19 2010, 10:46 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ May 19 2010, 08:01 PM)
No idea what you're referring to with floating. Might be skirt flare.
*
Sorry, not familiar with the terms.
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post May 19 2010, 10:51 PM

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QUOTE(xecton @ May 19 2010, 10:46 PM)
Sorry, not familiar with the terms.
*
user posted image
xecton
post May 20 2010, 03:13 PM

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I meant that I failed to communicate out my points because of my lack of words to use.

Rather than a skirt's flare, I think mine looks more like this;

user posted image
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post May 20 2010, 09:39 PM

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Oi Loke-chai, when is your Rubynacci going to be ready la?
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post May 20 2010, 09:46 PM

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Aiyah, next month only first fitting. I'm going to korrect my lavender shirt and white pants on the 26th.


Added on May 20, 2010, 9:50 pmI told him to make those first as I need more shirts and trousers!


Added on May 21, 2010, 4:31 pmI've donated all my jeans!

This post has been edited by bloke1: May 21 2010, 04:31 PM
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post May 21 2010, 08:45 PM

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QUOTE(bloke1 @ May 20 2010, 09:46 PM)

Added on May 21, 2010, 4:31 pmI've donated all my jeans!
*
I don't believe a word of that. You, donating?
bloke1
post May 21 2010, 09:03 PM

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You don't know? I was promoted to take care of the cattles.
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post May 21 2010, 09:07 PM

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All cowboys wear jeans.

Cows eat grass BTW, don't feed them fertilizer.
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post May 21 2010, 11:27 PM

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I'm a lousy cameraman...taken in a hurry...using canon s90 and re-sized the image paintshop pro
My zegna 3 piece by alt...

Attached Image

Attached Image

so far..i'm pretty satisfied..with alt.....
oppss..should ensure that suit fall nicely before taking the picture doh.gif ...didnt realize about the 2nd button

This post has been edited by silencer: May 21 2010, 11:35 PM
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post May 21 2010, 11:39 PM

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Suit looks great on you. I would go with 0.5" wider lapels the next time.

But you need shirts with a more European colour palette. Light blue solids, whites, blue stripes, pink stripes, etc. Not these dark shirts. And while DSN likes his pocket square to be of the same fabric as his tie, people don't usually do that.
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post May 21 2010, 11:45 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ May 21 2010, 11:39 PM)
Suit looks great on you. I would go with 0.5" wider lapels the next time.

But you need shirts with a more European colour palette. Light blue solids, whites, blue stripes, pink stripes, etc. Not these dark shirts. And while DSN likes his pocket square to be of the same fabric as his tie, people don't usually do that.
*
it was the alt idea that i should go for darker colour...my first choice was the light blue solids...even my wife had the same consensus with alt doh.gif

the next commissioning of navy 3 piece will be a single button suit....it was alt idea again.....

will put the pocket square in my shopping list when im travelling again.....thanks kotmj

This post has been edited by silencer: May 21 2010, 11:47 PM
kotmj
post May 21 2010, 11:51 PM

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All my single breasteds will be single button from now. The single button allows for a longer lapel, making for a more elongating effect. It also makes the jacket symmetrical -- the opening of the lapel mirrors the opening of the quarters, making for a harmonious look.

user posted image

You should get shirts like these:

Attached Image

This post has been edited by kotmj: May 21 2010, 11:57 PM
silencer
post May 22 2010, 11:14 PM

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Had a wonderful meeting and evening tea at coffee bean with kotmj after my 1st fitting of 3 piece Zegna Navy suit. Was told that there was a forumer came to alt for 3 piece suit ....but he was such in a hurry....

Pls ignore the pants as the fitting for pants is not necessary with the same measurement of the previous suit...and apologise for the low quality pic taken using Blackberry Bold 9700....

Attached Image

Attached Image

Cant wait to commission the dress shirt ...after seeing the ONE made by alt for kotmj.....

This post has been edited by silencer: May 22 2010, 11:19 PM
kotmj
post May 23 2010, 12:37 AM

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Wow, I'm such a lousy photographer!
xecton
post May 25 2010, 09:32 AM

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Okay.... here's my completed suit....

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


It still looks kind of weird to me... but its already the case of nasi sudah jadi bubur.
crapoccur
post May 25 2010, 01:00 PM

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Hey, a sideview pic would be great..
bloke1
post May 25 2010, 01:07 PM

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The final results are much better. Give a pat on your shoulder.
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post May 25 2010, 01:23 PM

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The front looks good enough. The armholes are indeed high. A tad short overall.
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post May 26 2010, 01:24 PM

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Well.... thanks for the help guys.
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post May 26 2010, 11:25 PM

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QUOTE(silencer @ May 22 2010, 11:14 PM)
Had a wonderful meeting and evening tea at coffee bean with kotmj after my 1st fitting of 3 piece Zegna Navy suit. Was told that there was a forumer came to alt for 3 piece suit ....but he was such in a hurry....

Pls ignore the pants as the fitting for pants is not necessary with the same measurement of the previous suit...and apologise for the low quality pic taken using Blackberry Bold 9700....

Attached Image

Attached Image

Cant wait to commission the dress shirt ...after seeing the ONE made by alt for kotmj.....
*
So I was there waiting for Mr Zegna (the man formerly known as silencer) to arrive, when this boy and this girl walk in. Quite beddable, that girl.

The boy says he wants a 3-piece. This got my attention. I mean, who ever orders a 3-piece nowadays?

I asked him what he wants to do with the suit -- it's his wedding suit he replies. He chose a light grey mix wool. RM1200.

It was all over in 10 minutes. It was a most uninspiring way to bespeak a suit. The couple seemed to be in a hurry to copulate. The only instruction he gave AL was that it should be narrow in the waist. Also took out a stack of GQ magazines a la Jind.

He asked me if I was from the lowyat forum. I said I don't know.

This post has been edited by kotmj: May 26 2010, 11:35 PM
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post May 26 2010, 11:37 PM

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LOL, my mind just switched off after you mentioned the girl.

Actually, it took me only 15mins to get everything passed on to al and mentioning the general direction. However, the first, second (even third) fittings were long. Loads of self-checking-out (felt rather pretentious, but heck, who wouldn't want their suit to look good), discussion with al asking questions regardless of how silly they sounded, and trying to convince him otherwise. It was definitely (as cliche as it sounds) an experience.

Al could be quite chatty too when in his right frame of mind, and it was nice to hear him giving his take on certain things.
malutapimau
post May 27 2010, 09:09 AM

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AL must be surrounded by many ly.n menbers these days,,,,

//i shall never visit AL on weekends-----

This post has been edited by malutapimau: May 27 2010, 09:12 AM
crapoccur
post May 27 2010, 12:12 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ May 26 2010, 11:25 PM)
So I was there waiting for Mr Zegna (the man formerly known as silencer) to arrive, when this boy and this girl walk in. Quite beddable, that girl.

The boy says he wants a 3-piece. This got my attention. I mean, who ever orders a 3-piece nowadays?

I asked him what he wants to do with the suit -- it's his wedding suit he replies. He chose a light grey mix wool. RM1200.

It was all over in 10 minutes. It was a most uninspiring way to bespeak a suit. The couple seemed to be in a hurry to copulate. The only instruction he gave AL was that it should be narrow in the waist. Also took out a stack of GQ magazines a la Jind.

He asked me if I was from the lowyat forum. I said I don't know.
*
I think he knows now..
kotmj
post May 27 2010, 09:57 PM

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I have found a source of the thickest, most bowl-shaped horn buttons in Malaysia. RM4.50/piece regardless of size. Stock, however, is severely limited and I ask for your understanding if I keep it secret for now.

This post has been edited by kotmj: May 27 2010, 10:07 PM
silencer
post May 27 2010, 10:25 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ May 27 2010, 09:57 PM)
I have found a source of the thickest, most bowl-shaped horn buttons in Malaysia. RM4.50/piece regardless of size. Stock, however, is severely limited and I ask for your understanding if I keep it secret for now.
*
That is DARN cheap......another round of coffe break at Coffee Bean after I coming back ... icon_question.gif
crapoccur
post May 28 2010, 01:14 PM

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user posted image
kotmj
post May 28 2010, 07:32 PM

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QUOTE(silencer @ May 27 2010, 10:25 PM)
That is DARN cheap......another round of coffe break at Coffee Bean after I  coming back ...  icon_question.gif
*
Send your driver to pick me up...
kotmj
post May 29 2010, 06:13 PM

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It was hot and dark, that slum of a bundle shop. Chock full of Levis 505s, which is the most terrible jeans Levis make The denim is spongy and short yarn. Awful.

The good thing is that 80% of the jeans there are very light blue, something that has gone out of fashion lately and therefore unobtainable at retail Levis stores.

After an hour of rummaging, I found a much better alternative to the low-end Levis:

user posted image

The fabric is of noticeably better quality than the 505s, but not as good as 511s. About the level of a 501. It was much cheaper too: RM8 instead of RM25 to RM 30 for the Levis.

I also picked this up for RM3:

user posted image

Dark jeans do not match my linen jacket. What was needed is a light colour palette. Dark indigo, like my 501s, is too visually heavy. Hence this whole kedai bundle adventure.

user posted image

Jacket: Ultra-bespoke linen, a Godmj collaboration with ALT
Shirt: Icy blue Kamdar cotton, bespoke
Tie: Navy polyester knit, kedai bundle
Jeans: Something, kedai bundle

This post has been edited by kotmj: May 29 2010, 06:35 PM
TSjind86
post May 29 2010, 06:35 PM

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wow best 11 bucks anyone could ever spend biggrin.gif

did they have a huge variety of stuff?
kotmj
post May 29 2010, 06:38 PM

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They have everything your can put on your body. Hats, caps, suits, chinos, shirts, jeans, etc.
bloke1
post May 29 2010, 08:02 PM

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Why don't you tell me earlier? I have a nice pair of faded blue jeans from Giordano. I would have donated them to you otherwise.
malutapimau
post May 29 2010, 09:25 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ May 29 2010, 06:13 PM)
user posted image

Jacket: Ultra-bespoke linen, a Godmj collaboration with ALT
Shirt: Icy blue Kamdar cotton, bespoke
Tie: Navy polyester knit, kedai bundle
Jeans: Something, kedai bundle
*
jeans looks kinda baggy,,, did you sized up?

i think a superfastic linen jacket should be matched w/ a faded selvage denim---not an rm8 jeans

QUOTE(bloke1 @ May 29 2010, 08:02 PM)
Why don't you tell me earlier? I have a nice pair of faded blue jeans from Giordano. I would have donated them to you otherwise.
*
whats the size? we all know im teh most cheapest in here so im always open for donations

This post has been edited by malutapimau: May 29 2010, 09:26 PM
kotmj
post May 29 2010, 10:15 PM

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QUOTE(bloke1 @ May 29 2010, 08:02 PM)
Why don't you tell me earlier? I have a nice pair of faded blue jeans from Giordano. I would have donated them to you otherwise.
*
Please, do send them to me after you've worn them for a week. I shan't ever wash them.


Added on May 29, 2010, 10:18 pm
QUOTE(malutapimau @ May 29 2010, 09:25 PM)
jeans looks kinda baggy,,, did you sized up?

i think a superfastic linen jacket should be matched w/ a faded selvage denim---not an rm8 jeans
*
I neither size up nor down. I only do Size Perfect.

There was a 505 that was very skin hugging, but really, I'm not a rempit and I like to be able to sit comfortably.

The jeans is very high quality. There is no such thing as light blue raw denim.


Added on May 29, 2010, 10:46 pmWow, almost 1000 people have read my suit article.

This post has been edited by kotmj: May 29 2010, 10:46 PM
kotmj
post May 29 2010, 10:59 PM

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Have you fan cheongs seen this thread?

http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=182696
bloke1
post May 30 2010, 12:21 AM

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My navy jacket will fit exactly like that!
kotmj
post May 30 2010, 12:05 PM

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QUOTE(bloke1 @ May 30 2010, 12:21 AM)
My navy jacket will fit exactly like that!
*
Dream on...
3ff3z8e
post May 30 2010, 02:23 PM

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Hi everyone!

It's my first post here after sorting through 120+ pages from the first and second thread over the weekend (yes..... I actually did it... sweat.gif ). It's been a really informative 2 days for me especially in regards to Ah Loke and Bespoke @ 1 utama, so thanks heaps everyone. notworthy.gif

So where do I start....,

I'm planning to fly up to malaysia sometime soon for about a month and would like to commission a few suits with both Ah Loke and Bespoke (probably 2 each), as I probably wanted to find out who makes a better suit for my slightly overweight build (170cm, 75kgs..... trying to work myself down to 70kgs), so I have a few questions I hope you guys don't mind filling me on.

In regards to ALT and Bespoke, how much time will it usually take between, measurement to the first fitting, and then from the first to the second, and possibly second to completion?

Also, I read somewhere that AL may have planned to retire sometime in the near future. Is that true? I certainly hope not.. as his retirement will be a great loss to the local tailoring scene.

Lastly, does Bespoke use a full floating canvas in their suits? I'm wondering if it's most likely this may be requested at additional cost?

I know it may seem ridiculous that I'm actually willing to fly all the way from aust. but with the price of a decent fully canvassed tailored suit starting from AUD$2.5k, I think that's still out of my league, being a relatively new entrant to the workforce.

Well, thanks guys for your willingness to hear me out...

Regards,


Added on May 30, 2010, 2:26 pmOoooh, and I forgot to mention I love your linen jacket kotmj!! rclxms.gif and silencer's 3 piece as well... looking forward to the day I can have suits n blazers like these..... drool.gif

Cheerios....

This post has been edited by 3ff3z8e: Aug 22 2010, 07:42 AM
kotmj
post May 30 2010, 05:18 PM

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It takes 2-3 working days between the fittings, and 2 weeks from the last fitting to completion of the suit. So you're looking at 3 weeks from first to last visit.

The last I heard, Bespoked charges RM500 extra for full canvassing.

I would also consider getting odd trousers and dress shirts made. Also, consider a trip to P.Lal for English welted shoes at incredible prices.

Is this your first foray into bespoke or have you had cheap and dirty Thai bespoke before this?


This post has been edited by kotmj: May 30 2010, 05:31 PM
3ff3z8e
post May 30 2010, 06:50 PM

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Hi kotmj,

Thanks for the reply. I'm actually looking at the PLal webbie just now... cool, now I know where to get my shoes as well...

In regards to fittings so if it's about 2-3 days per fitting, I suppose it's best to keep my schedule flexible for the 1st week and a half while I'm there for the fittings?

Well, I had my last suit done by the crew at Sparkmanshop a few years back, last I heard they've changed their name or something. But all I can say is, back then being my ignorant self, all I just needed was a suit for work, and hence got myself served a fused "sackcloth". Now I've been enlightened to the process of a decent bespoke tailor, I am aware that I am in need of a wardrobe/ image refresher. I'll post up a pic one of these days to show you guys the "sack" one day.

I'm still a novice which such affairs though so, I'm also planning to purchase a book or two from amazon.com, namely "Dressing the Man". I was wondering if anyone might have any other recommendations in terms of books to further my sartorial studies?

Thanks & regards,

This post has been edited by 3ff3z8e: Aug 22 2010, 07:43 AM
Cheenoo
post May 30 2010, 06:55 PM

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I don't think you need a book for sartorial studies. The world wide web is good enough..
kotmj
post May 30 2010, 10:49 PM

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QUOTE(3ff3z8e @ May 30 2010, 06:50 PM)
Hi kotmj,

Thanks for the reply. I'm actually looking at the PLal webbie just now... cool, now I know where to get my shoes as well...

In regards to fittings so if it's about 2-3 days per fitting, I suppose it's best to keep my schedule flexible for the 1st week and a half while I'm there for the fittings?

Well, I had my last suit done by the crew at Sparkmanshop a few years back, last I heard from my dad they've changed their name or something. But all I can say is, back then being my ignorant self, all I just needed was a suit for work, and hence got myself served a fused "sackcloth". Now I've been enlightened to the process of a decent bespoke tailor, I am aware that I am in need of a wardrobe/ image refresher. I'll post up a pic one of these days to show you guys the "sack" one day.

I'm still a novice which such affairs though so, I'm also planning to purchase a book or two from amazon.com, namely "Dressing the Man". I was wondering if anyone might have any other recommendations in terms of books to further my sartorial studies?

Thanks & regards,
*
Hang around the Klang Valley the first week.

BTW, AL's stuff is fused. I don't think you'll find it that bad. The trick is to use very good cloth. Always use good cloth. Nothing makes a bigger difference.


Added on May 30, 2010, 11:02 pmAlso, if you have a spare tire around your midsection, no tailor can give you the silhouette of a person with about 10% body fat (me). With a high BMI, it's about damage minimization, not about enhancing a good physique.

If you have broad shoulders, it is still possible to create the illusion of a trimmer waist. But that's not possible with a negative drop (when your waist is wider than your shoulders).

I want you to go in with the right expectations.

This post has been edited by kotmj: May 30 2010, 11:07 PM
jasonchchteik
post May 31 2010, 05:02 PM

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i have a navy blazer and im not sure what colour should my pants be for a good match. was hoping to get opinions from the gentlemen in this thread.
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post May 31 2010, 06:53 PM

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white, beige, grey, anything but black (and colours darker than ur blazer).
3ff3z8e
post May 31 2010, 07:29 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ May 31 2010, 12:49 AM)
Hang around the Klang Valley the first week.

BTW, AL's stuff is fused. I don't think you'll find it that bad. The trick is to use very good cloth. Always use good cloth. Nothing makes a bigger difference.


Added on May 30, 2010, 11:02 pmAlso, if you have a spare tire around your midsection, no tailor can give you the silhouette of a person with about 10% body fat (me). With a high BMI, it's about damage minimization, not about enhancing a good physique.

If you have broad shoulders, it is still possible to create the illusion of a trimmer waist. But that's not possible with a negative drop (when your waist is wider than your shoulders).

I want you to go in with the right expectations.
*
Thanks Kotmj, I don't really have a spare tyre to speak off, but I can really do better in terms of my weight. I've started to exercise more often now hoping I could lose a little more to get my BMI to about 25 or lower (currently around 27). At the current stage my silhoutte looks like a rectangular block at the moment, so hopefully I can work on the arms and the waist a little over the next few months (fingers crossed). but you've raised a good point on expectations.

Interesting point as well on AL fusing his suits. I guess that's okay as the ones I need for work, I'm not too fussed with the construction. Though I was just wondering how you managed to convince AL on partial canvassing? Will it be hard to convince him as a new customer?(Also when asking him to cut differrently from his house cut)"?

Cheers,
kotmj
post May 31 2010, 07:38 PM

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AL does a very nice suit nowadays. Just go in, say you're my best friend, and want natural shoulders, high armholes, perfectly clean back, open quarters, slightly longer jacket, a collar that grips the neck no matter what, lapel openings that do not gap open, shirtsleeve cuffs, somewhat wider lapels than he is comfortable making, side adjuster trousers with 2" cuffs which are painfully short for him with a low fork and extra drape in the buttcrack for comfortable sitting 11 hours a day, etc. Whew.
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post Jun 1 2010, 12:10 PM

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First, let me say I probably learnt more about suits reading the last 10 page of this thread and "So you want to get a suit made" then my last 30+ years of existence smile.gif

I read ALT should be able to churn out a suit in 3 weeks, that's about the date line I have for my wedding (yeah I know I was procrastinating..). I'm actually aiming for a Mao/Mandarin Suit of maybe dark navy colour. Material.. no idea.. probably go for super wool as suggested in this thread.

Anyway, I would like to know if I'm making some sort of fashion boo boo with this choice, and is there anything I should pay special attention to for this type of suit or just leave myself in Ah Loke's capable hands?

ps : kotmj, does your "special cut" at ALT's work for this kinda suit as well?

This post has been edited by MeToo: Jun 1 2010, 12:16 PM
jasonchchteik
post Jun 1 2010, 12:51 PM

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QUOTE(Cheenoo @ May 31 2010, 06:53 PM)
white, beige, grey, anything but black (and colours darker than ur blazer).
*
thnx Cheenoo biggrin.gif
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post Jun 1 2010, 06:47 PM

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QUOTE(jasonchchteik @ May 31 2010, 05:02 PM)
i have a navy blazer and im not sure what colour should my pants be for a good match. was hoping to get opinions from the gentlemen in this thread.
*
hmm, any color which is clearly not navy (e.g. dark blue, black).. otherwise it will look like your trying to wear a suit.. i think the best combination would be with white or khaki chinos.. but why dont u post a pix of ur blazer..
kotmj
post Jun 1 2010, 08:51 PM

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QUOTE(MeToo @ Jun 1 2010, 12:10 PM)
First, let me say I probably learnt more about suits reading the last 10 page of this thread and "So you want to get a suit made" then my last 30+ years of existence smile.gif

I read ALT should be able to churn out a suit in 3 weeks, that's about the date line I have for my wedding (yeah I know I was procrastinating..). I'm actually aiming for a Mao/Mandarin Suit of maybe dark navy colour. Material.. no idea.. probably go for super wool as suggested in this thread.

Anyway, I would like to know if I'm making some sort of fashion boo boo with this choice, and is there anything I should pay special attention to for this type of suit or just leave myself in Ah Loke's capable hands?

ps : kotmj, does your "special cut" at ALT's work for this kinda suit as well?
*
I've never seen a Mao or Nehru suit I like. Hope you will not find me presumptuous if I suggest you stick with either a SB or DB. If you want to avoid that business look, choose a fancy fabric or have a contrasting waistcoat. Or have a tuxedo made.

I don't know about AL's "capable hands". You have to ask for my cut or else you will get the sack cut. Mine is not just a cut, it is a different level of make. Obsessive attention to fit, more materials, etc. Ask for my cut and you will get it.

Actually, I suggest kid mohair, not super wool. Tailors are the ones suggesting super wool, preferably from Zegna or H&S. It pays the rent.
3ff3z8e
post Jun 1 2010, 09:40 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Jun 1 2010, 10:51 PM)

Actually, I suggest kid mohair, not super wool. Tailors are the ones suggesting super wool, preferably from Zegna or H&S. It pays the rent.
*
Lol, I'll literally cook myself in my own fat if I wore a wool suit in the malaysian heat. It's gotta be a kid mohair wool mix or linen for me for summer suits. And oh, BTW, anyone has any idea about these 90+% wool and 10 to 1 % cashmere mix fabrics? I'm getting a feeling they may be for cooler climates since I've always associated cashmere with winter scarves and sweaters.....

This post has been edited by 3ff3z8e: Jun 1 2010, 09:43 PM
kotmj
post Jun 1 2010, 11:04 PM

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Tan Sri Dato' Zegna is currently having a 3 piece made of 100% wool. It's a, heh, Zegna tropical worsted which is incredibly porous and light yet firm and strong. A navy shadow check. Lined with the gayest pink ermazine.

I would wear that.

I would not wear any of those cashmere stuff. They are supposed to have popular appeal due to how soft the handle is.
silencer
post Jun 2 2010, 11:57 PM

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back at last.....with Zegna fabric for 5 dress shirts and 1 pant....with several pocket square too... Too bad...th enavy suit is still not ready yet but alt told me that he will try to make it ready by this Saturday....AND my fabulous black Armani fabric for the next suit is already in alt's hand...with pink ermazine and black horn button...it will be a single button suit again....but i do wonder why alt keep asking me the same questions over n over-"Is this for official function?"....i guess maybe bec its black in color but with the V pattern (not heeringbone)..its the best fabric that I have ever bought so far....


Added on June 3, 2010, 12:02 am
QUOTE(kotmj @ Jun 1 2010, 11:04 PM)
Tan Sri Dato' Zegna is currently having a 3 piece made of 100% wool. It's a, heh,  Zegna tropical worsted which is incredibly porous and light yet firm and strong. A navy shadow check. Lined with the gayest pink ermazine.

I would wear that.

I would not wear any of those cashmere stuff. They are supposed to have popular appeal due to how soft the handle is.
*
oppps...the kid mohair and tropical wool fabric r sold like "goreng pisang panas" in US...as a preparation for summer season.....

This post has been edited by silencer: Jun 3 2010, 12:05 AM
joywilliams
post Jun 3 2010, 12:18 AM

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Hey guys, not sure if this is the right thread but may I ask where can I rent a prom suit and how much does it cost approximately? Thanks in advance!
3ff3z8e
post Jun 3 2010, 06:19 AM

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[quote=silencer,Jun 3 2010, 01:57 AM]
back at last.....with Zegna fabric for 5 dress shirts and 1 pant....with several pocket square too... Too bad...th enavy suit is still not ready yet but alt told me that he will try to make it ready by this Saturday....AND my fabulous black Armani fabric for the next suit is already in alt's hand...with pink ermazine and black horn button...it will be a single button suit again....but i do wonder why alt keep asking me the same questions over n over-"Is this for official function?"....i guess maybe bec its black in color but with the V pattern (not heeringbone)..its the best fabric that I have ever bought so far....


Added on June 3, 2010, 12:02 am
oppps...the kid mohair and tropical wool fabric r sold like "goreng pisang panas" in US...as a preparation for summer season.....
*

[/quote


Wow....it's pretty darned hard to find a fabric distributor here in sydney. Most people here either buy off the rack or have the cash for a bespoke suit. But even off the rack, the markups are horrendous. One of my only option at the moment is british fabrics on ebay for my inaugaral pilgrimage to Ah Loke. Hoping their stuff is decent.

Silencer, if you don't mind me asking, while I'm more familiar with kid mohair for summer, the tropical wool, is it within the 7-8oz per metre region?
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post Jun 3 2010, 01:33 PM

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what sort of colours/ weaves are you looking for?

This post has been edited by kotmj: Jun 3 2010, 01:34 PM
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post Jun 3 2010, 04:56 PM

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QUOTE(3ff3z8e @ Jun 3 2010, 06:19 AM)
Wow....it's pretty darned hard to find a fabric distributor here in sydney. Most people here either buy off the rack or have the cash for a bespoke suit. But even off the rack, the markups are horrendous. One of my only option at the moment is british fabrics on ebay for my inaugaral pilgrimage to Ah Loke. Hoping their stuff is decent.

Silencer, if you don't mind me asking, while I'm more familiar with kid mohair for summer, the tropical wool, is it within the 7-8oz per metre region?
*
That question should be answered by bespoked gurus, kotmj....as I always make a generalization of fabric into light, medium or heavy....as for tropical wool..it falls under the first category....
fish@5311
post Jun 3 2010, 07:13 PM

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Hi I would like to know the approximate price range for the suiting fabrics....eg super 100/120, kid mohair....and where are the recommended places to buy them

Thanks
kotmj
post Jun 3 2010, 09:32 PM

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i have a secret project going on which i shall never ever divulge. it is most cunning and will result in a superlative jacket. i will not be using al for this.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Jun 3 2010, 09:42 PM
silencer
post Jun 3 2010, 09:41 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Jun 3 2010, 09:32 PM)
i have a secret project going on which i shall never ever divulge. it is most cunning and will result in a superlative jacket.
*
shocking.gif thumbup.gif


Added on June 3, 2010, 9:43 pm
QUOTE(fish@5311 @ Jun 3 2010, 07:13 PM)
Hi I would like to know the approximate price range for the suiting fabrics....eg super 100/120, kid mohair....and where are the recommended places to buy them

Thanks
*
i guess no one bother to read the pinned Thread... http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/1351948

This post has been edited by silencer: Jun 3 2010, 09:44 PM
kotmj
post Jun 3 2010, 09:48 PM

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the project is most secret. i cannot even post pics of the end result.
Cheenoo
post Jun 3 2010, 09:56 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Jun 3 2010, 09:48 PM)
the project is most secret. i cannot even post pics of the end result.
*
u know the drill.. pics or.. smile.gif
3ff3z8e
post Jun 3 2010, 11:08 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Jun 3 2010, 03:33 PM)
what sort of colours/ weaves are you looking for?
*
hi kotmj & silencer,

Well, basically I'm building my wardrobe from almost scratch, besides my old sparkmanshop navy narrow pinstripe sacksuit being assigned to the "only use in serious emergencies status"...lol

I guess I'll be looking at starting with 2 summer and 2 winter suits, or if I can stretch my budget (by cutting out all my eating out expenses for a few months) a special "dinner date" suit.

For the summer suits I'm sticking close to my favorite colours like light grays, charcoals, tans and browns. For the winter wear, i have navy, charcoal and dark brown in mind. British Fabrics seem to have a few decent kid mohair/ wool blends on offer for my summer suit material. For winter suits, I'll probably come up to Binwanis when I drop by to see if any decent Super 100 - 120s fabrics around. Not sure how Binwani's prces compare to british fabrics. Overall for my "General Purpose/ workhorse suits" as long as the quality is decent, that's good with me. Not too fussed as they're mostly for weekday and work wear.

The dinner dinner date suit though I guess, I intend to get something more special, perhaps a lighter (in weight/ density terms) perhaps like Super 130 - 140 in Navy or charcoal.


Cheers peeps,
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post Jun 4 2010, 03:27 AM

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QUOTE(silencer @ Jun 3 2010, 09:41 PM)
shocking.gif  thumbup.gif


Added on June 3, 2010, 9:43 pm

i guess no one bother to read the pinned Thread...  http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/1351948
*
The pinned thread DID NOT state what was a "reasonable amount" for buying your own cloth.
kotmj
post Jun 4 2010, 01:34 PM

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QUOTE(3ff3z8e @ Jun 3 2010, 11:08 PM)
hi kotmj & silencer,

Well, basically I'm building my wardrobe from almost scratch, besides my old sparkmanshop navy narrow pinstripe sacksuit being assigned to the "only use in serious emergencies status"...lol

I guess I'll be looking at starting with 2 summer and 2 winter suits, or if I can stretch my budget (by cutting out all my eating out expenses for a few months) a special "dinner date" suit.

For the summer suits I'm sticking close to my favorite colours like light grays, charcoals, tans and browns. For the winter wear, i have navy, charcoal and dark brown in mind. British Fabrics seem to have a few decent kid mohair/ wool blends on offer for my summer suit material. For winter suits, I'll probably come up to Binwanis when I drop by to see if any decent Super 100 - 120s fabrics around. Not sure how Binwani's prces compare to british fabrics. Overall for my "General Purpose/ workhorse suits" as long as the quality is decent, that's good with me. Not too fussed as they're mostly for weekday and work wear.

The dinner dinner date suit though I guess, I intend to get something more special, perhaps a lighter (in weight/ density terms) perhaps like Super 130 - 140 in Navy or charcoal.
Cheers peeps,
*
dinner dates are expensive and don't work


Added on June 4, 2010, 7:52 pmi would suggest this wardrobe

dark semi-milled textured charcoal medium weight 3 piece sb
a medium gray twill medium weight 3 piece sb
a kid mohair navy tropical weight 2 piece db with swappable buttons
a colourful and loud sports jacket
light gray flannel trousers

This post has been edited by kotmj: Jun 4 2010, 07:55 PM
kotmj
post Jun 5 2010, 03:42 PM

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was just about to enter alt when i saw this couple from 2 weeks back sitting at the counter, their backs to me. i retraced my steps and am now in coffee bean having a coffee to avoid having to meet them.

the boy is STILL wearing a stupid t-shirt for fittings.
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post Jun 5 2010, 03:49 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Jun 5 2010, 03:42 PM)
was just about to enter alt when i saw this couple from 2 weeks back sitting at the counter, their backs to me. i retraced my steps and am now in coffee bean having a coffee to avoid having to meet them.

the boy is STILL wearing a stupid t-shirt for fittings.
*
hahahaha..will only be going to alt to collect my 3 piece zegna navy at 6pm..as al told me that it will only be ready around6-7pm.......the fitting for myblack armani will only be ready on next saturday....

Kotmj... needs your precious help...as I run out of idea for my next 4 suits...as I have to get rid of all of my OTR suits......bespoked is the way..... Currently, I have charcoal,tan,navy and black bespoked suits....what will be the next fabric color????? rclxub.gif
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post Jun 5 2010, 04:01 PM

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Please, Tan Sri, have some modesty! You already have more bespoke suits than most people will have suits in their lives.

But to answer your question, you need some stripes. Maybe a mid grey with white chalkstripes.

Attached Image

Also, consider a Prince of Wales check.

Attached Image

And a gunclub sportsjacket.

Attached Image

This post has been edited by kotmj: Jun 5 2010, 04:06 PM
silencer
post Jun 5 2010, 04:15 PM

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Thank U Sir kotmj....
That tan check is famous for Dormeuil fabric.....
How many yards is required for the sport jacket......and how about the material...linen or tropical wool.....
kotmj
post Jun 5 2010, 09:28 PM

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1.7m will be sufficient for just a jacket. linen or tropical is entirely up to you, but wool is more formal.
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post Jun 5 2010, 11:01 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Jun 4 2010, 03:34 PM)
dinner dates are expensive and don't work


Added on June 4, 2010, 7:52 pmi would suggest this wardrobe

dark semi-milled textured charcoal medium weight 3 piece sb
a medium gray twill medium weight 3 piece sb
a kid mohair navy tropical weight 2 piece db with swappable buttons
a colourful and loud sports jacket
light gray flannel trousers
*
Haha kotmj, you raise a good point about dinner dates sweat.gif .... probably explains why I'm still rather poor cry.gif

Thanks for the wardrobe recs... really some food for thought for me. Will google up some of the terms before bothering you further about it.....

Cheers,
kotmj
post Jun 6 2010, 06:28 PM

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Dressed for a night out...

user posted image

I'm late! Bye.
silencer
post Jun 6 2010, 10:13 PM

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Sir kotmj..let me guess...dinner at 5 star hotel restaurant..and finishing it with listening to the Live Band at the lounge.... smile.gif
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post Jun 6 2010, 11:34 PM

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Actually, it was celebrating a pretty chick's birthday at a Korean restaurant followed by a round of pubbing.
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post Jun 6 2010, 11:53 PM

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Anyone else wore a blazer?
silencer
post Jun 7 2010, 03:15 AM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Jun 6 2010, 11:34 PM)
Actually, it was celebrating a pretty chick's birthday at a Korean restaurant followed by a round of pubbing.
*
wow..raw meat and half-cooked..... drool.gif
kotmj
post Jun 7 2010, 09:57 AM

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QUOTE(Cheenoo @ Jun 6 2010, 11:53 PM)
Anyone else wore a blazer?
*
Of course not.


Added on June 7, 2010, 10:00 am
QUOTE(silencer @ Jun 7 2010, 03:15 AM)
wow..raw meat and half-cooked..... drool.gif
*
sounds hamsap grumble.gif

This post has been edited by kotmj: Jun 7 2010, 10:25 AM
MeToo
post Jun 8 2010, 10:57 AM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Jun 5 2010, 03:42 PM)
was just about to enter alt when i saw this couple from 2 weeks back sitting at the counter, their backs to me. i retraced my steps and am now in coffee bean having a coffee to avoid having to meet them.

the boy is STILL wearing a stupid t-shirt for fittings.
*
Wah! kotmj seems to be ALT stalker.... remind me not to turn my back to the door when I go for my fitting this saturday.

ps : You guys noticed the lack of parking in that area?!
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post Jun 8 2010, 11:15 AM

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QUOTE(ceo684 @ Jun 4 2010, 03:27 AM)
The pinned thread DID NOT state what was a "reasonable amount" for buying your own cloth.
*
kotmj
post Jun 8 2010, 12:25 PM

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QUOTE(MeToo @ Jun 8 2010, 10:57 AM)
Wah! kotmj seems to be ALT stalker.... remind me not to turn my back to the door when I go for my fitting this saturday.

ps : You guys noticed the lack of parking in that area?!
*
I park at Cap Square. RM2 flat rate on weekends.


Added on June 8, 2010, 12:26 pmWhat time will you be there this Saturday? So I can avoid you, you understand.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Jun 8 2010, 12:26 PM
silencer
post Jun 8 2010, 12:35 PM

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QUOTE(ceo684 @ Jun 4 2010, 03:27 AM)
The pinned thread DID NOT state what was a "reasonable amount" for buying your own cloth.
*
huh...what was with the "reasonable amount" thing??? kotmj had written it in details...and should be fully understandable..... doh.gif
MeToo
post Jun 8 2010, 12:36 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Jun 8 2010, 12:25 PM)
I park at Cap Square. RM2 flat rate on weekends.


Added on June 8, 2010, 12:26 pmWhat time will you be there this Saturday? So I can avoid you, you understand.
*
I'm cheap... i park right infront of ALT, or across the street (less likely get hit by some ah beng racing).

So if you see a car park right outside.... start stalking..

This post has been edited by MeToo: Jun 8 2010, 12:46 PM
kotmj
post Jun 8 2010, 12:55 PM

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Is that a Mao suit you'll be getting?

Our Tan Sri here likes Saturday team meetings...
MeToo
post Jun 8 2010, 01:12 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Jun 8 2010, 12:55 PM)
Is that a Mao suit you'll be getting?

Our Tan Sri here likes Saturday team meetings...
*
Yup, Mao here. AL actually suggested striped, i think that's when my wife started backing out towards the door... i ended up deciding on plain navy blue.

Well, if I can pick up some dressing tips... let's do coffee hmm.gif

ps : Will try not to wear a Tshirt for the fitting session..
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post Jun 8 2010, 05:10 PM

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QUOTE(silencer @ Apr 22 2010, 06:53 PM)
Kotmj,based in your previous posting, u still favour the ermezine instead of bemberg ambiance. What is your opinion of bemberg cupro if compared with ermezine.
*

There's just something about a suit which is so empowering,ed hardy bags and ladies just love men in suits.. Here we talk anything and everything about suits suits and suits..ed hardy watches
Post up pictures of you in your suit.. Accompany pictures with as much information as possible..ed hardy swimwear
bloke1
post Jun 8 2010, 07:33 PM

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QUOTE(MeToo @ Jun 8 2010, 01:12 PM)
Yup, Mao here. AL actually suggested striped, i think that's when my wife started backing out towards the door... i ended up deciding on plain navy blue.

Well, if I can pick up some dressing tips... let's do coffee  hmm.gif

ps : Will try not to wear a Tshirt for the fitting session..
*
I think kotmj is interested in your wife.
Cheenoo
post Jun 8 2010, 07:47 PM

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saw what u did there.
MeToo
post Jun 8 2010, 10:48 PM

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QUOTE(bloke1 @ Jun 8 2010, 07:33 PM)
I think kotmj is interested in your wife.
*
Well atleast I know he have taste then cool2.gif
kotmj
post Jun 8 2010, 11:02 PM

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You mean to say she has no mass appeal?

This post has been edited by kotmj: Jun 9 2010, 02:17 PM
deriku
post Jun 10 2010, 10:21 PM

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Would like to ask if anyone has used merino wool for a suit before? How's the feel like?

kotmj
post Jun 12 2010, 11:21 PM

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I tried on a navy Mandarin collar suit today, or what is generally known as the Mao suit. It fits me very well, except lengthwise. I think I look most formidable in it, like Neo in The Matrix. Like some assassin for hire. An Oriental kung fu master. I might even get myself one someday.

The Tan Sri was there. Every time I meet with him, he reveals something new about himself. I think one day he will tell me over coffee that besides taking over the world, he has a side business, that he runs an escort agency for high-income clients, and that he would like me to sample his portfolio of girls. Something like that.

Oh the Tan Sri has basically perfected his pattern. His suits need no more touch ups -- everything fits 98%. The Armani "V" black suit will look great for evening wear. Unlike plain black (polyester) suits, the Armani designers understood that there is a need for more visual interest in a black suit. Hence the V pattern on it. The V shimmers slightly under spotlight.

My pink shirt is fantastic! I have finally found my cut. And the Cunning Plan is in full action.


Added on June 12, 2010, 11:33 pm
QUOTE(deriku @ Jun 10 2010, 10:21 PM)
Would like to ask if anyone has used merino wool for a suit before? How's the feel like?
*
Merino feels more luxurious than wiping your arse with silk.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Jun 12 2010, 11:33 PM
silencer
post Jun 13 2010, 12:09 AM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Jun 12 2010, 11:21 PM)
I tried on a navy Mandarin collar suit today, or what is generally known as the Mao suit. It fits me very well, except lengthwise. I think I look most formidable in it, like Neo in The Matrix. Like some assassin for hire. An Oriental kung fu master. I might even get myself one someday.

The Tan Sri was there. Every time I meet with him, he reveals something new about himself. I think one day he will tell me over coffee that besides taking over the world, he has a side business, that he runs an escort agency for high-income clients, and that he would like me to sample his portfolio of girls. Something like that.

Oh the Tan Sri has basically perfected his pattern. His suits need no more touch ups -- everything fits 98%. The Armani "V" black suit will look great for evening wear. Unlike plain black (polyester) suits, the Armani designers understood that there is a need for more visual interest in a black suit. Hence the V pattern on it. The V shimmers slightly under spotlight.

My pink shirt is fantastic! I have finally found my cut. And the Cunning Plan is in full action.
kotmj in mao suit...for his coming kungfu movie......pls ignore the alt's daimler behind his back...

Attached Image

by the way..it was a great evening.....and nice pink dress shirt..... vmad.gif still refuse to tell me about your secret project...Sir Kotmj

This post has been edited by silencer: Jun 13 2010, 12:13 AM
malutapimau
post Jun 13 2010, 07:40 AM

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how many mao suits are currently being prepared at alt?
kotmj
post Jun 13 2010, 03:12 PM

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QUOTE(malutapimau @ Jun 13 2010, 07:40 AM)
how many mao suits are currently being prepared at alt?
*
AFAIK only one.
MeToo
post Jun 13 2010, 05:18 PM

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QUOTE(silencer @ Jun 13 2010, 12:09 AM)
kotmj in mao suit...for his coming kungfu movie......pls ignore the alt's daimler behind his back...

Attached Image

by the way..it was a great evening.....and nice pink dress shirt..... vmad.gif still refuse to tell me about your secret project...Sir Kotmj
*
hmm.... that looks extremely familiar somehow....... blink.gif
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post Jun 13 2010, 06:43 PM

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QUOTE(MeToo @ Jun 13 2010, 05:18 PM)
hmm.... that looks extremely familiar somehow....... blink.gif
*
shocking.gif cool2.gif
kotmj
post Jun 13 2010, 06:57 PM

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Silencer made me do it. sad.gif
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post Jun 13 2010, 07:20 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Jun 13 2010, 06:57 PM)
Silencer made me do it. sad.gif
*
Ah Loke said it first...... blush.gif
bloke1
post Jun 13 2010, 08:59 PM

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QUOTE(MeToo @ Jun 13 2010, 05:18 PM)
hmm.... that looks extremely familiar somehow....... blink.gif
*
Well if I were you...


Added on June 13, 2010, 9:12 pmI think I've just said something nasty. never mind.

This post has been edited by bloke1: Jun 13 2010, 09:12 PM
kotmj
post Jun 14 2010, 01:53 AM

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QUOTE(silencer @ Jun 13 2010, 07:20 PM)
Ah Loke said it first...... blush.gif
*
Yes it's AL's fault.
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post Jun 14 2010, 02:17 AM

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hi, any recommendation for a suit for wedding, for best man. and how to choose a suitable suit ( NOT TAILOR MADE )...how the suit should fit me ?
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post Jun 14 2010, 08:52 AM

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http://thestar.com.my/metro/story.asp?file...696&sec=central

go double park at Pudu Plaza area for good deals
MeToo
post Jun 14 2010, 11:18 AM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Jun 14 2010, 01:53 AM)
Yes it's AL's fault.
*
I think I have a fan..... hmm... maybe I can pass u some old shirts to use as linings in your suits? Then you can feel closer to me wub.gif

ps : Oh I tightened up the back, reduced the shoulder pads (there was FOUR in there!), higher armholes, and made the bottom part narrower (looks like I'm wearing a minidress currently!).

This post has been edited by MeToo: Jun 14 2010, 11:24 AM
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post Jun 14 2010, 11:40 AM

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Would you happen to have a few used underwears instead?

Will you be collecting the finished suit next or will you have another fitting?
MeToo
post Jun 14 2010, 11:52 AM

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Will be collecting the finished suit unless it turns out to be a total wreck.

ps : Will leave the used (unwashed, I heard those are more popular) underwear with AL for you.
kotmj
post Jun 14 2010, 12:04 PM

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Yes, please, unwashed. Preferably stained. Such matters are too delicate to involve the hapless tailor. You can hand them to me personally. I would also like to take off the one you're wearing then.

PS: There is 0.0% chance it will be a wreck.
deriku
post Jun 16 2010, 12:49 AM

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I read that it typically takes 3 weeks for a suit to be made at ALT. Is there a faster turnover time? I will be back in Malaysia for only 2 weeks and I am thinking of getting his services for a suit.

Appreciate an answer from the ALT regulars, thanks.
kotmj
post Jun 16 2010, 11:49 AM

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The World's Most Expensive Suit

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zxJ8NV4Qc7w


Added on June 16, 2010, 11:51 am
QUOTE(deriku @ Jun 16 2010, 12:49 AM)
I read that it typically takes 3 weeks for a suit to be made at ALT. Is there a faster turnover time? I will be back in Malaysia for only 2 weeks and I am thinking of getting his services for a suit.

Appreciate an answer from the ALT regulars, thanks.
*
Give him a call at 0326924206.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Jun 16 2010, 11:51 AM
sliver2c
post Jun 16 2010, 03:11 PM

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[quote=kotmj,Jun 16 2010, 11:49 AM]
The World's Most Expensive Suit

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zxJ8NV4Qc7w


Added on June 16, 2010, 11:51 am

I dont know if its worth 70,000 pounds! but again people tend to do something stupid all the time
sk2000
post Jun 16 2010, 04:32 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Jun 16 2010, 11:49 AM)
The World's Most Expensive Suit

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zxJ8NV4Qc7w


Added on June 16, 2010, 11:51 am
Give him a call at 0326924206.
*
Where is ALT located?
kotmj
post Jun 16 2010, 05:58 PM

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QUOTE(sk2000 @ Jun 16 2010, 04:32 PM)
Where is ALT located?
*
At an undisclosed location in KL, accessible only to those who know the secret handshake.
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post Jun 17 2010, 02:01 AM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Jun 16 2010, 05:58 PM)
At an undisclosed location in KL, accessible only to those who know the secret handshake.
*
actually i found it by accident when i decided to have pizza. Very big sign boards.
Anyway, went to pick up my suit today. I asked for a three piece suit and one peach shirt. The peach shirt's fit was excellent, although i had difficulty buttoning the two-collar buttons. Tailor told me he'd make the buttonholes a bit bigger. I also asked the tailor to do a double-pocket trousers. He told me he's never seen anything like it before and it was very hard to do. The trousers also fit like a glove, very snug and accentuates my really cute ass.

But the jacket was dissapointing. During the last fitting, i asked him to pull it in a bit, make it a bit more tighter around the waist. He didn't do it. So i asked him to pull it in by another 2 inches on each side. This is what it looks like after he pinned it.


user posted image

the suit also didn't come with a lapel buttonhole but a lapel loop. should i ask for a buttonhole as well?

This post has been edited by kneok: Jun 17 2010, 02:22 AM
kotmj
post Jun 17 2010, 08:35 AM

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QUOTE(kneok @ Jun 17 2010, 02:01 AM)
actually i found it by accident when i decided to have pizza. Very big sign boards.
Anyway, went to pick up my suit today. I asked for a three piece suit and one peach shirt. The peach shirt's fit was excellent, although i had difficulty buttoning the two-collar buttons. Tailor told me he'd make the buttonholes a bit bigger. I also asked the tailor to do a double-pocket trousers. He told me he's never seen anything like it before and it was very hard to do. The trousers also fit like a glove, very snug and accentuates my really cute ass.

But the jacket was dissapointing. During the last fitting, i asked him to pull it in a bit, make it a bit more tighter around the waist. He didn't do it. So i asked him to pull it in by another 2 inches on each side. This is what it looks like after he pinned it.
user posted image

the suit also didn't come with a lapel buttonhole but a lapel loop. should i ask for a buttonhole as well?
*
Jacket looks good from the front. Have the sleeves shortened by a quarter inch and the trousers by a whole inch.


This post has been edited by kotmj: Jun 18 2010, 09:58 AM
kotmj
post Jun 18 2010, 09:59 AM

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Some interesting looks to draw inspiration from

http://www.brooksbrothers.com/BlackFleeceL...3&topParent=Men
kotmj
post Jun 19 2010, 11:10 PM

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Japonaise national team. First time I heard of samurai blue. Notice not much cuff show. At most 0.25". Shoulders too padded for my taste. Oh yeah, the Tan Sri and I saw a Dunhill navy linen jacket at ALT last week. Nothing special, really.

user posted image

The English national team in Marks and Spencer 3 pieces. Skinny lapels, hacking pockets, flat front trousers. Nothing English about it. No drape anywhere.

user posted image

The Italian national team in Dolce and Gabbana. 3 pcs peaked lapels, skinny ties, thin collars.
user posted image


Added on June 19, 2010, 11:23 pmUS national team. Sartorial basket case. This is what happens when Nike sponsors you.

user posted image

This post has been edited by kotmj: Jun 19 2010, 11:26 PM
bloke1
post Jun 20 2010, 10:14 AM

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The boys in the US team are wearing your shoes.
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post Jun 21 2010, 11:33 AM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Jun 18 2010, 09:59 AM)
Some interesting looks to draw inspiration from

http://www.brooksbrothers.com/BlackFleeceL...3&topParent=Men
*
I checked out the Brooks Bros. link. A little too much cuff showing eh? hmm.gif
kotmj
post Jun 21 2010, 12:20 PM

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QUOTE(BikerVoodoo @ Jun 21 2010, 11:33 AM)
I checked out the Brooks Bros. link. A little too much cuff showing eh?  hmm.gif
*
Those were designed by Thom Browne for BB. He was already reining himself in.
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post Jun 21 2010, 01:14 PM

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Apart from the no lapel buttonhole, i also have concerns with the buttons. It looks really plasticky. Where can i get my own buttons to match the suit i made?
BikerVoodoo
post Jun 21 2010, 04:09 PM

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Ah, Thom Browne! I found this on the net ...

user posted image

He has some rules apparently:

Rule #1: “Only the middle button on the jacket should be buttoned when you are wearing it closed.”
Rule #2: “The pocket square in the breast pocket should be just peeking out (no more than 1/8 of an inch).”
Rule #3: “The last button on the cuff of the jacket should be left unbuttoned.”
Rule #4: “The button-down collar of the white oxford shirt should remain unbuttoned.”
Rule #5: “Please do not iron the oxford shirts after washing.”
Rule #6: “The trousers should be worn high-waisted so that the cuff of the trouser falls above the ankle.”
Rule #7: “The neckties have been pretied, but please remember to keep the knot very tight when tying the necktie.”
Rule #8: “The necktie should be worn long, with the tip of the tie tucked into the waist of the trousers.”
Rule #9: “The tie bar should be clipped so that it falls halfway between the collar of your shirt and the waistband of the trousers.”
Rule #10: “The shoes should be worn without socks.”

Fascinating, but not for me.
BikerVoodoo
post Jun 21 2010, 04:46 PM

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What's an SF by the way? Pardon my ignorance.

Rule #3, #4, #5, #6, #8, #10 are no fly zones in my department. Especially rule #10!

Thom Browne's runway stuff - if you show that to people who can afford 5000 and up for a suit, they would just be puzzled and think "Are these guys insane?". doh.gif

Am I being too harsh in thinking that no right-thinking person would consider these shrunken look, Pee-Wee Herman style suits. rclxub.gif

IMHO clothes should transcend 'fashion'.

This post has been edited by BikerVoodoo: Jun 21 2010, 05:59 PM
bloke1
post Jun 21 2010, 07:43 PM

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Here's a preview of what you will see in SF
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

kotmj
post Jun 21 2010, 08:26 PM

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First, that's Godmj for you.

Second, I have no pictures of bikini-clad girls. They're all naked, and in various stages of being penetrated.

No wait, I think I do have one after all. I even got it from SF itself.Attached Image
BikerVoodoo
post Jun 21 2010, 10:22 PM

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Thanks for explaining SF.
BikerVoodoo
post Jun 21 2010, 10:41 PM

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Too late ... I already joined SF!
netmatrix
post Jun 22 2010, 12:51 AM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Jun 21 2010, 10:43 PM)
Is there ANYONE here who isn't gay?
*
Happy and gay. Not just gay. laugh.gif laugh.gif
kotmj
post Jun 22 2010, 11:30 PM

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This will be the only pic of The Secret Project I will ever post. Only Lokechai my dearest will know what it is about.

user posted image


Added on June 22, 2010, 11:59 pmI'll give any of you a kiss who can guess what that pic depicts.


Added on June 23, 2010, 12:03 amAlright, just another pic, but this is the last! Stop asking for more!

user posted image

This post has been edited by kotmj: Jun 23 2010, 12:03 AM
bloke1
post Jun 23 2010, 09:19 PM

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Those buttonholes may have surpassed ALT's.
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post Jun 23 2010, 10:28 PM

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Of course. This new tailor of mine does full canvassing and super buttonholes.
bloke1
post Jun 24 2010, 09:11 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Jun 23 2010, 10:28 PM)
Of course. This new tailor of mine does full canvassing and super buttonholes.
*
You wish!



This post has been edited by bloke1: Jun 25 2010, 03:20 PM
BikerVoodoo
post Jun 25 2010, 10:26 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Jun 22 2010, 11:30 PM)
This will be the only pic of The Secret Project I will ever post. Only Lokechai my dearest will know what it is about.

user posted image


Added on June 22, 2010, 11:59 pmI'll give any of you a kiss who can guess what that pic depicts.


Added on June 23, 2010, 12:03 amAlright, just another pic, but this is the last! Stop asking for more!

user posted image
*
That's a very nice buttonhole.
kotmj
post Jun 25 2010, 10:31 PM

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Guess what the first pic is about?
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post Jun 25 2010, 10:41 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Jun 25 2010, 10:31 PM)
Guess what the first pic is about?
*
Tiny stitches holding layers of fabric together? hmm.gif
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post Jun 25 2010, 10:50 PM

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Those are pad stitches. You will see them again later once my navy suit is completed. But triple the stitches.
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post Jun 25 2010, 10:52 PM

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QUOTE(bloke1 @ Jun 25 2010, 10:50 PM)
Those are pad stitches. You will see them again later once my navy suit is completed. But triple the stitches.
*
rclxms.gif

And mine will be triple yours. flex.gif
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post Jun 25 2010, 11:06 PM

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Shoulder pads? So is that a shot of the inside or outside?
kotmj
post Jun 25 2010, 11:17 PM

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I'm pretty sure that apart from Loky and me, nobody on this forum knows what that pic is about.
BikerVoodoo
post Jun 25 2010, 11:37 PM

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I don't, that's for sure.
kotmj
post Jun 25 2010, 11:42 PM

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That pic suggests a suit that requires about 3X more labour and skill to get right than your standard fuse job. It is the sign of a hand-made garment.
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post Jun 25 2010, 11:50 PM

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Sounds good to me. My work suit has puckered up and bubbled at the front around the pocket area. Not good.
kotmj
post Jun 26 2010, 12:01 AM

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That was probably fused with an iron, not a steam press.

Traditional suits don't even have any glue in them. Apart from that, their lapels and collars are given shape through the small little stitches you see above. Takes days, requires concentration, and tires the eyes and fingers. Until 3 decades ago, it was the defacto method of make of Malaysian tailors. It has all but disappeared.

We're all hoping that the sifu up north Rubinacci will be using for Loky's suit is not dead or anything, and not infirm and crapping his diaper every hour, etc.
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post Jun 26 2010, 12:57 AM

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We need more good tailors in Malaysia that's for sure. Fused suits are no good.
kneok
post Jun 29 2010, 01:10 PM

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picked up my suit last week

user posted image

user posted image

back:

user posted image

i didnt rotate the right arm-sleeves properly when taking the pic.


ticke
post Jun 29 2010, 10:26 PM

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no offense but shoddy workmanship...pants abit too long. any plan to grow taller? j/k.
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post Jun 29 2010, 11:58 PM

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Something within me jumped when I saw that back.

The suit is not technically perfect, but the tailor obviously is formidable. A little bit of coaching would make him the best so far.

I've exchanged PMs with kneok, and there were 3 fittings altogether.
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post Jun 30 2010, 12:17 AM

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The back looks like its another suit compared viewing from the front.
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post Jun 30 2010, 01:32 AM

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i was too lazy to wear a belt during the fitting, and wore the pants at the hips, a bit below my cute pot-belly. but i've tried the pants again with the belt and the breaks were considerably lesser.

i think the back is a bit weird, although i can't pinpoint exactly what it is but i love how it accentuates my figure.

here are pictures of the pants pockets i asked the tailor to do:

user posted image



user posted image

user posted image

i dunno what it's called. double pocket? both pockets are full pockets with similar room. but its only on the right, the left pocket only has one pocket. Got the idea from my ted baker smart jeans. can't find the original jeans maybe ill post it up later.

This post has been edited by kneok: Jun 30 2010, 02:16 AM
sliver2c
post Jun 30 2010, 03:26 PM

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QUOTE(kneok @ Jun 30 2010, 01:32 AM)
i was too lazy to wear a belt during the fitting, and wore the pants at the hips, a bit below my cute pot-belly. but i've tried the pants again with the belt and the breaks were considerably lesser.

i think the back is a bit weird, although i can't pinpoint exactly what it is but i love how it accentuates my figure.

here are pictures of the pants pockets i asked the tailor to do:

user posted image
user posted image

user posted image

i dunno what it's called. double pocket? both pockets are full pockets with similar room. but its only on the right, the left pocket only has one pocket. Got the idea from my ted baker smart jeans. can't find the original jeans maybe ill post it up later.
*
Did you get it done from Richard's in Ampang Park?
lanatir
post Jun 30 2010, 03:28 PM

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QUOTE(kneok @ Jun 30 2010, 01:32 AM)
i was too lazy to wear a belt during the fitting, and wore the pants at the hips, a bit below my cute pot-belly. but i've tried the pants again with the belt and the breaks were considerably lesser.

i think the back is a bit weird, although i can't pinpoint exactly what it is but i love how it accentuates my figure.

here are pictures of the pants pockets i asked the tailor to do:

user posted image
user posted image

user posted image

i dunno what it's called. double pocket? both pockets are full pockets with similar room. but its only on the right, the left pocket only has one pocket. Got the idea from my ted baker smart jeans. can't find the original jeans maybe ill post it up later.
*
the cloth looks familiar... i may have a pair of pants made from the same material or similar pattern/texture.

This post has been edited by lanatir: Jun 30 2010, 03:31 PM
kneok
post Jun 30 2010, 05:06 PM

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QUOTE(sliver2c @ Jun 30 2010, 03:26 PM)
Did you get it done from Richard's in Ampang Park?
*
lol how did you know??
MeToo
post Jul 1 2010, 11:59 AM

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QUOTE(kneok @ Jun 30 2010, 05:06 PM)
lol how did you know??
*
The last pic kinda gave it away bro
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post Jul 1 2010, 02:41 PM

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only for hard core ampang parkers i suppose. did you also figure it out?
MeToo
post Jul 1 2010, 03:50 PM

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QUOTE(kneok @ Jul 1 2010, 02:41 PM)
only for hard core ampang parkers i suppose. did you also figure it out?
*
Ampang Parker.... lol ... I like the term..

I have to go there pretty often since my ex-company's panel doctor is there.... and we have our yearly bowling game there too
bloke1
post Jul 2 2010, 12:09 PM

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user posted image

What do you all think of the button stance? Too low?
bloke1
post Jul 2 2010, 01:32 PM

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What about moving them 1/2inch higher?
netmatrix
post Jul 2 2010, 01:38 PM

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QUOTE(FusioneX @ Jun 30 2010, 12:38 AM)
Greetings, Agent Smith No.2. I see you have cloned yourself. What happened to your original copy?
*
I'm in the process of cloning myself quietly. So until i become uncontrollably cloned then LYP admin named NEO can come and beat me up ala Dragon Ball style fight and save the day. But i got my reasons to do this. And its not anything illegal. Its just to circumvent some stupid features in LYP. wink.gif
kotmj
post Jul 2 2010, 02:19 PM

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That suit jacket is a paragon of perfection. Just copy it precisely and you will be well taken care of.
bloke1
post Jul 2 2010, 02:25 PM

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Can I? Would a fully canvassed jacket yield slightly better results?


Added on July 2, 2010, 2:29 pmI think I want a higher buttoning point.

This post has been edited by bloke1: Jul 2 2010, 02:29 PM
kotmj
post Jul 2 2010, 04:37 PM

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You should go for a single button.
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post Jul 2 2010, 05:14 PM

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suit looks perfect for business wear.
bloke1
post Jul 2 2010, 05:52 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Jul 2 2010, 04:37 PM)
You should go for a single button.
*
But the first few suits of Lordmj are all two buttons.
kotmj
post Jul 2 2010, 05:56 PM

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The latest policy is to have all SBs as single buttons, c.f. BeigeLinenJacket. The Tan Sri is also now a convert.
kotmj
post Jul 2 2010, 06:38 PM

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The volume of stupid questions has gone down dramatically ever since I published my suit sticky.


Added on July 2, 2010, 6:39 pmNow, people come here with fit pics, a development I very much encourage.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Jul 2 2010, 06:39 PM
bloke1
post Jul 2 2010, 10:45 PM

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Can we all know the make of the jacket? rolleyes.gif

This post has been edited by Fusion[eX]: Oct 8 2010, 12:05 AM
kotmj
post Jul 2 2010, 10:59 PM

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This is a long shot, but Fusionsex were you in Kinokuniya on Wed evening?
U+FFFD
post Jul 2 2010, 11:01 PM


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I tried rummaging through my wardrobe and it seems that the jacket isn't with me anymore. Either I gave it away or sold it to some forumer, cannot really recall. What I remember though is that it was a heavy tweed vintage jacket, either fully or half canvassed.
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post Jul 2 2010, 11:03 PM

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Wait, it's a heavy tweed, you even wore it with a cardigan?!

You Sir, are indeed a baller!
kotmj
post Jul 2 2010, 11:09 PM

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That tweed jacket looks great.

I thought I saw someone like you there. He has pointy Italian leather shoes (good ones), skinny dark jeans, a white shirt and trendy hair.

They have vrought in a new magazine about maintenance of men's clothes and accessories. Heavily illustrated, all about how to brush your wool trousers, jackets, how to revitalize shoes, bags, remove stains from shirts, how to iron shirts, etc. But it costs RM80+.
bloke1
post Jul 2 2010, 11:20 PM

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So this Cowmj likes stalking well-dressed men at Kinokuniya every Wednesday evening. That explains why he doesn't have a girlfriend yet.
U+FFFD
post Jul 2 2010, 11:22 PM


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QUOTE(kotmj @ Jul 2 2010, 11:09 PM)
That tweed jacket looks great.

I thought I saw someone like you there. He has pointy Italian leather shoes (good ones), skinny dark jeans, a white shirt and trendy hair.

They have vrought in a new magazine about maintenance of men's clothes and accessories. Heavily illustrated, all about how to brush your wool trousers, jackets, how to revitalize shoes, bags, remove stains from shirts, how to iron shirts, etc. But it costs RM80+.
*
My memory is somewhat murky but I remember it was a good bespoke piece from Britain based on how the whole thing was put together but what drove me to pass it off to another soul was that the jacket was too tight of a fit (the reason why I wore it with the button undone in the picture). There wasn't any fabric allowance for adjustments by the local tailor.
bloke1
post Jul 2 2010, 11:25 PM

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Haiyah! That might just fit me perfectly, nobody else. Damn you Fusion.

This post has been edited by bloke1: Jul 2 2010, 11:26 PM
bloke1
post Jul 2 2010, 11:30 PM

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QUOTE(FusioneX @ Jul 2 2010, 11:26 PM)
Are you testing the waters in order to find out if you have the chance to hook up with him, Loke-chai?  brows.gif
Oh please, he already had wrinkles starting from his forehead all the way down to his saggy thighs.
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post Jul 2 2010, 11:31 PM

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Lokemui hasn't a chance.
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post Jul 2 2010, 11:42 PM

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I just soaked a blazer I bought from the bundle shop, and the laundry water is very red?! How can that be? It's a grey blazer with grey lining.

The blazer was very dirty and smelled terrible. I wish someone would just throw it away for me now. I daren't touch it.
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post Jul 2 2010, 11:47 PM

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I think you've just bought a blazer previously worn by a Taiwanese assassin.
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post Jul 2 2010, 11:50 PM

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Taiwanese butcher is mode likely. But there was a reddish stain at the bottom hem that was caked hard. It cannot be blood can it? After clotting, blood no longer disperses in water, right?


Added on July 2, 2010, 11:51 pmf***, I hate shit like this. Someone please get that jacket out of my bathroom.


Added on July 3, 2010, 12:06 amWhat do I do with it now? It's soaking in a pail in the bathroom.

Do I just bring it out and throw it away?

This post has been edited by kotmj: Jul 3 2010, 12:06 AM
kotmj
post Jul 3 2010, 12:17 AM

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It was really red! It's soaking in a second fill of water + detergent now.

I think I'll just go to sleep and decide tomorrow.
bloke1
post Jul 3 2010, 11:14 AM

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QUOTE(FusioneX @ Jul 3 2010, 01:23 AM)
...
By far the best photo we've seen! Nice work, Mr Sam Agent FSex.
kotmj
post Jul 3 2010, 12:31 PM

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That pic is so bizarre I don't even know what to say.
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post Jul 3 2010, 01:05 PM

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All dressed up and going to pick up zuperpent now.
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post Jul 3 2010, 04:04 PM

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I see that AL also turns the basted cuff hem outside instead of inside, same thing happened to me with MBT. It really annoys me as I couldn't see the width of the cuff hem properly during fitting.

This post has been edited by bloke1: Jul 3 2010, 04:15 PM
bloke1
post Jul 3 2010, 06:44 PM

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user posted image

But Steed can't be wrong!


Added on July 3, 2010, 6:46 pmuser posted image

Everyone seems to be doing it that way, with the exception of Malaysian tailors.

This post has been edited by bloke1: Jul 3 2010, 06:46 PM
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post Jul 3 2010, 07:28 PM

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I would go:

"Wai Dai Lou, I'm not doing a french cuffed suit leh, how to see how wide is my cuff with all those turned up sei yan fabric block kao my view?"

This post has been edited by bloke1: Jul 3 2010, 07:30 PM
kotmj
post Jul 3 2010, 07:54 PM

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"Leng chai, ngo hoi chi cho sam lei tou mei chut sai ah!"
netmatrix2
post Jul 3 2010, 08:25 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Jul 3 2010, 07:54 PM)
"Leng chai, ngo hoi chi cho sam lei tou mei chut sai ah!"
*
This one blurted by the tailor or u? whistling.gif
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post Jul 3 2010, 11:10 PM

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There were two other new developments at AL today.

First, he has received all the Dugdale stuff. I spent some time leafing through the books. Very old fashioned English stuff. The cloths do not have the soft hand of Italian stuff.

Second, our Tan Sri has commissioned (yet) another suit.
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post Jul 3 2010, 11:59 PM

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Just thought I'd share a suit i made at a local tailor last year

user posted image

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

feel free to criticise.
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post Jul 4 2010, 12:34 AM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Jul 3 2010, 11:10 PM)
There were two other new developments at AL today.

First, he has received all the Dugdale stuff. I spent some time leafing through the books. Very old fashioned English stuff. The cloths do not have the soft hand of Italian stuff.

Second, our Tan Sri has commissioned (yet) another suit.
*
Just recovered from a long fever.........that 5th suit by AL is inline with your pattern recommendation...a gray color with striped pattern....I'm really impressed with AL works for both of my suit and dress shirts.... cant wait to collect my 3rd dress shirt with stay and french cuff from him next week.....anyone here is planning to order ermazine lining online...!!!


Added on July 4, 2010, 12:35 am
QUOTE(Kidicarus @ Jul 3 2010, 11:59 PM)
Just thought I'd share a suit i made at a local tailor last year

user posted image

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

feel free to criticise.
*
i like the background picture.....+1

This post has been edited by silencer: Jul 4 2010, 12:35 AM
kotmj
post Jul 4 2010, 12:30 PM

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QUOTE(Kidicarus @ Jul 3 2010, 11:59 PM)
Just thought I'd share a suit i made at a local tailor last year

user posted image

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

feel free to criticise.
*
It doesn't look that good. Not curvaceous enough, not distinctive, no personality. The lapels are too skinny, the hacking pockets are too sloping as to look sad, and the sleeves are not done optimally.

Also it seems to have some issues at the waist, but that may be due to your posture. I would like to see the back.

Please also never wear that shirt with this suit ever again.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Jul 4 2010, 12:32 PM
Adell G
post Jul 4 2010, 11:31 PM

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suiting related matter, can anyone recommend a good dry-cleaning place for suits?
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post Jul 4 2010, 11:42 PM

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QUOTE(Adell G @ Jul 4 2010, 11:31 PM)
suiting related matter, can anyone recommend a good dry-cleaning place for suits?
*
http://www.jeevesmalaysia.com/member%20club/index.html
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post Jul 4 2010, 11:47 PM

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Have you used Jeeves? How much?

AL recommended me to a place at Jln Imbi next to SAI or something like that. But nobody goes to Jln Imbi.
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post Jul 5 2010, 12:04 AM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Jul 4 2010, 11:47 PM)
Have you used Jeeves? How much?

AL recommended me to a place at Jln Imbi next to SAI or something like that. But nobody goes to Jln Imbi.
*
not yet..just use the normal dry cleaning at sect 13...and its a franchised dry cleaning svc with several branches in klang valley....only xcosts me rm12 persuit.....but i believe, Jeeves svc charge will be triple...
netmatrix2
post Jul 5 2010, 12:52 AM

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QUOTE(silencer @ Jul 5 2010, 12:04 AM)
not yet..just use the normal dry cleaning at sect 13...and its a franchised dry cleaning svc with several branches in klang valley....only xcosts me rm12 persuit.....but i believe, Jeeves svc charge will be triple...
*
I concur. If Jeeves does use those newfangled cleaning agent, it will cost a whole lot more. Impossible they would charge the regular RM12 rate for suits.
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post Jul 5 2010, 06:21 AM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Jul 4 2010, 12:30 PM)
It doesn't look that good. Not curvaceous enough, not distinctive, no personality. The lapels are too skinny, the hacking pockets are too sloping as to look sad, and the sleeves are not done optimally.

Also it seems to have some issues at the waist, but that may be due to your posture. I would like to see the back.

Please also never wear that shirt with this suit ever again.
*
Just my 2 Sen. Actually you don't look bad but here are my humble observations.

1. I concur with kotmj. The pocket slope may be a bit too extreme. It's been said a 15-degree slant should be the maximum (can anyone verify please?)
2. Lapels look a bit out of proportion with this suit.
3. Breast pocket - forgive me if I'm wrong but is it slanting to your left? I believe it should be angled slightly down toward the lapel. This is to make up for the distortion caused by the curvature of the chest: It looks slanted on the hanger, but when you put it on, it looks straight.
4. I may be wrong but visually your jacket looks a little long. I'm just a beginner but I believe it's been written that a properly-fitting jacket will have its waist button just below the wearer's actual waist. Is that true on your jacket?
5. You may have a long torso and a 3-button might suit you better.

Pardon me if I mentioned anything wrong, just my humble contribution.
netmatrix2
post Jul 5 2010, 09:48 AM

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The pockets do look very extremely slanted. But he can't do anything to change it. The suit seems more narrower on top than bottom. Hmmm....
BikerVoodoo
post Jul 5 2010, 10:07 AM

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Perhaps if he keeps the flaps inside it will be fine. No use worrying too much about it.
netmatrix2
post Jul 5 2010, 10:09 AM

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Keeping the flaps inside would make it look much like those Korean things.
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post Jul 5 2010, 10:11 AM

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Makes it easier to blend in at Koong Jung for Soh Kahlbi and O Ching Eh Dub Pab. wink.gif
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post Jul 5 2010, 10:12 AM

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I like his pink flip flop.
netmatrix2
post Jul 5 2010, 10:13 AM

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Hey i didn't even spot that! Why is a girly sole in there? hahaha.
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post Jul 5 2010, 10:16 AM

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He's a closet cross dresser.
netmatrix2
post Jul 5 2010, 10:21 AM

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I'm so tempted to say spank the monkey. tongue.gif

This post has been edited by netmatrix2: Jul 5 2010, 10:21 AM
Kidicarus
post Jul 5 2010, 10:40 AM

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The pink slippers belong to my wife who was sitting down when she took that picture... They look very comfy though, might have to hunt them down in my size.

Actually thanks for the observations, I actually do have disproportionately long body relative to my legs. A lot of the design decisions on that were copied and modified over the years from a reiss suit i got about years back.

The back of the suit actually does capture the curvature of the back, unfortunately, it also captures the curvature of the front which is unfortunate as i had just come back from a big dinner.

Also, I can't afford to have my suits more fitted as I have to wear my suit outdoors in the tropics due to the work that i do. So i actually have to make sure that they are breathable.

I have to admit though, i don't normally pay too much attention to the lapels, pockets as i tend to worry more about the overall shape of my suit and how it drapes over my body.

U+FFFD
post Jul 5 2010, 11:01 AM


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QUOTE(Kidicarus @ Jul 5 2010, 10:40 AM)
Also, I can't afford to have my suits more fitted as I have to wear my suit outdoors in the tropics due to the work that i do.  So i actually have to make sure that they are breathable.

I have to admit though, i don't normally pay too much attention to the lapels, pockets as i tend to worry more about the overall shape of my suit and how it drapes over my body.
*
You should never sacrifice proper fit - knowing that you need to wear a suit outdoors for your job, you should have gotten yourself a half-lined light cotton or linen suit instead.
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post Jul 5 2010, 12:28 PM

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guys, need your help. i would like to send my suit for altering on its cuts coz i think it's too big for me. any recommended tailors who'll do a superb job with reasonable price around klang valley? thanks!
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post Jul 5 2010, 12:31 PM

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I remember a forumer here did his double breasted suit at bespoked. Would love to see how that turned out. I am looking to make a double breasted suit for work
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post Jul 5 2010, 12:40 PM

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QUOTE(FusioneX @ Jul 5 2010, 11:01 AM)
You should never sacrifice proper fit - knowing that you need to wear a suit outdoors for your job, you should have gotten yourself a half-lined light cotton or linen suit instead.
*
No, not cotton, but certainly kid mohair or fresco or some of the new innovative tropical weaves.


Added on July 5, 2010, 12:41 pm
QUOTE(kneok @ Jul 5 2010, 12:31 PM)
I remember a forumer here did his double breasted suit at bespoked. Would love to see how that turned out. I am looking to make a double breasted suit for work
*
No, that guy mistook a 2-button suit for a double breasted.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Jul 5 2010, 12:41 PM
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post Jul 5 2010, 12:59 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Jul 5 2010, 12:40 PM)
No, not cotton, but certainly kid mohair or fresco or some of the new innovative tropical weaves.


Added on July 5, 2010, 12:41 pm
No, that guy mistook a 2-button suit for a double breasted.
*
shocking.gif

Planning to do one, but not sure to do it at Richards. I've seen some of his double breasted suits, they are all old fashioned and im looking for a slimmer, modern fit.

Saw a shop at Great Eastern Mall called Tux and Blazers ( i think) they have a promotion rm 900 for a suit and one trousers. Will probably check that out
silencer
post Jul 5 2010, 03:49 PM

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QUOTE(kneok @ Jul 5 2010, 12:59 PM)
shocking.gif

Planning to do one, but not sure to do it at Richards. I've seen some of his double breasted suits, they are all old fashioned and im looking for a slimmer, modern fit.

Saw a shop at Great Eastern Mall called Tux and Blazers ( i think) they have a promotion rm 900 for a suit and one trousers. Will probably check that out
*
rm900 for the workmanship charge..or for the whole thing???? what is so special at Richards for db suits?
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post Jul 5 2010, 04:14 PM

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900 for the whole thing. i did my first suit at richards.
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post Jul 5 2010, 04:14 PM

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The whole thing, obviously. You get some polyester stuff.

(Then they complain it's suicide to wear it.)

Tux and Blazer is a chain, and I have written unflattering things about them before.
kneok
post Jul 5 2010, 04:18 PM

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what's wrong with them?
sliver2c
post Jul 5 2010, 04:31 PM

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QUOTE(kneok @ Jun 30 2010, 05:06 PM)
lol how did you know??
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Got a shirt done there before, not bad but require a bit of coaching otherwise its ok
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post Jul 5 2010, 04:45 PM

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QUOTE(kneok @ Jul 5 2010, 04:18 PM)
what's wrong with them?
*
Well, I like going into tailoring shops and asking questions no tailor has ever had to answer from customers.

Went into the T&B at Alpha Angle. They were selling these RM6k Zegna cloth suits. I asked the "tailor" there a few very basic questions about the internal construction of his suits. He knew nothing about them. All he could answer was that they are all "suiting materials".

The guy knows less about tailoring than me. All he does is take measurements, fill out a form, then fax that form to Wardrobe.
netmatrix2
post Jul 5 2010, 04:49 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Jul 5 2010, 04:45 PM)
Well, I like going into tailoring shops and asking questions no tailor has ever had to answer from customers.

Went into the T&B at Alpha Angle. They were selling these RM6k Zegna cloth suits. I asked the "tailor" there a few very basic questions about the internal construction of his suits. He knew nothing about them. All he could answer was that they are all "suiting materials".

The guy knows less about tailoring than me. All he does is take measurements, fill out a form, then fax that form to Wardrobe.
*
Standard operating procedure. Its like sub-contracting a job. Places like Spark manshop and such does that too. There are no cutting or stitching done there. just measure and wait. shocking.gif But its new thing la in Malaysia. Not like those single china man run shops. They do that all here. My place, the tailor does the measuring and cutting. But the stitching is done by Indonesians. unsure.gif
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post Jul 6 2010, 12:52 AM

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Anyone wanna tumpang order ermazine lining from lining company? Pls PM me..so we can share the shipping cost.... smile.gif
kotmj
post Jul 6 2010, 10:32 PM

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I might be interested in some buttons and horsehair for my fully canvassed DB navy mohair fresco 3-piece.
netmatrix2
post Jul 9 2010, 01:57 AM

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I was clearing off some images from my phone and i found this inside. I think this book was spotted in Time Bookshop in Pavilion.

user posted image
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post Jul 10 2010, 01:07 AM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Jul 6 2010, 10:32 PM)
I might be interested in some buttons and horsehair for my fully canvassed DB navy mohair fresco 3-piece.
*
wow..a fully canvased suit....sir kotmj ..do u have any source for memberg cupro lining..thinking on changing the lining material...

kotmj
post Jul 10 2010, 01:44 AM

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Here
http://www.voguefabricsstore.com/store/cat...-p-1-c-994.html


Added on July 10, 2010, 8:46 pmReview: Richard's Tailor Ampang Park

From a basted jacket: Collar interlinng is sew-in polyester, not linen. Buttonholes machine-made, badly. Lapels non-padded. Interior finishing underwhelming, unlike Granoff or Bespoked. The thickest pre-fab shoulder pads I've seen in my life, about 1" thick at the ends. House silhouette: NFL player shoulders, slightly open quarters, thin droopy lapels, mild waisting (more than AL). Very clean back and sleeves, but no drape at back of armsyce which means arm movement forwards is impossible. Armholes medium height (neither high nor low).g

This post has been edited by kotmj: Jul 10 2010, 08:46 PM
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post Jul 10 2010, 08:46 PM

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Review: Richard's Tailor Ampang Park

From a basted jacket: Collar interlining is sew-in polyester, not linen. Buttonholes machine-made, badly. Lapels non-padded. Interior finishing underwhelming, unlike Granoff or Bespoked. The thickest pre-fab shoulder pads I've seen in my life, about 1" thick at the ends. House silhouette: NFL player shoulders, slightly open quarters, thin droopy lapels, mild waisting (more than AL). Very clean back and sleeves, but no drape at back of armsyce which means arm movement forwards is impossible. Armholes medium height (neither high nor low).

The thing about buttonholes is that, if you have any aspiration towards "fine tailoring", they need to be hand-sewn. Machine sewn on a specialized suit-button making machine is bad enough, but machine sewn on a normal sewing machine is the most terrible crime of all. It is essentially a shirt buttonhole, only larger.

He kept reminding me that what I was seeing is a jacket for fitting. The finished jacket, he said, will look different and will not have all the guts hanging around. He said it 4 times. I kept saying "Of course, of course." On the fifth time he said it, I said "BUT OF COURSE, MAN. I HAVE BEEN TO MANY FITTINGS AND HAVE HAD MANY SUITS MADE SO PLEASE KEEP QUIET!" He kept quiet.

He also showed me a finished suit. RM550 for labour, but faux cuffs, no this no that forgetaboutit.

He showed me a shirt. No collar bone pocket, low density sewing, no French seams, machine-sewn buttons, bleh bleh yawn. RM100 for labour.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Jul 10 2010, 10:06 PM
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post Jul 10 2010, 10:35 PM

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Kneok should post pictures of his buttonholes. Let the battle of the buttonholes begin!


Added on July 10, 2010, 10:39 pmSo should Jind. I'm eager to see Lord's work.

This post has been edited by bloke1: Jul 10 2010, 10:39 PM
pendekar111
post Jul 10 2010, 10:59 PM

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Gentlemen,

Sorry to make an abrupt change in topic.

I'm seeking some advice on making a classic tuxedo for a close friends wedding. Have any of you had any experience ?

Does ALT (who seems to be quite the preferred tailor here) do dinner jackets (well)?

Also what would you suggest in procuring the material, e.g buying my own, if it is possible to find any. Or go with what the tailor has.

U+FFFD
post Jul 10 2010, 11:21 PM


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QUOTE(pendekar111 @ Jul 10 2010, 10:59 PM)
Gentlemen,

Sorry to make an abrupt change in topic.

I'm seeking some advice on making a classic tuxedo for a close friends wedding. Have any of you had any experience ?

Does ALT (who seems to be quite the preferred tailor here) do dinner jackets (well)?

Also what would you suggest in procuring the material, e.g buying my own, if it is possible to find any. Or go with what the tailor has.
*
Very bold move indeed and I salute your for that. Rarely do we get to see a gent in here who wants to have a classic tuxedo bespoke.

If possible, try hunting down your own midnight blue fabric to breathe life into a more interesting garment.
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post Jul 10 2010, 11:26 PM

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QUOTE(pendekar111 @ Jul 10 2010, 10:59 PM)
Gentlemen,

Sorry to make an abrupt change in topic.

I'm seeking some advice on making a classic tuxedo for a close friends wedding. Have any of you had any experience ?

Does ALT (who seems to be quite the preferred tailor here) do dinner jackets (well)?

Also what would you suggest in procuring the material, e.g buying my own, if it is possible to find any. Or go with what the tailor has.
*
I've never seen ALT do a tuxedo. You can be the first to give it a go, I suppose.

I would in this case just go with what the tailor has.

Your friend is most demanding.
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post Jul 10 2010, 11:34 PM

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Those two threads are really just for Miss Loke and me.
netmatrix2
post Jul 10 2010, 11:43 PM

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QUOTE(pendekar111 @ Jul 10 2010, 10:59 PM)
Gentlemen,

Sorry to make an abrupt change in topic.

I'm seeking some advice on making a classic tuxedo for a close friends wedding. Have any of you had any experience ?

Does ALT (who seems to be quite the preferred tailor here) do dinner jackets (well)?

Also what would you suggest in procuring the material, e.g buying my own, if it is possible to find any. Or go with what the tailor has.
*
If you hunt for your own fabric, you get what you want. Shops generally have limited colors. They would have black, but the fabric quality would differ and the prices change. The color FusionEx mentioned is actually a weird blue black kind of color. With bright light its blue, and under low light its black. This is actually a politically correct color for tuxedo. But its very rarely seen. Black is the generally accepted one. I do not know if most tailors stock midnight blue fabrics. Its best you check out how midnight blue looks like first.

Or you could opt for ready made ones. I've seen the ready made ones from Louis Remogue (Spark Manshop) in Metrojaya Mid Valley. They cost RM850. I do not know if alteration charges are included. But if you want to go that way, this is an option. Or BONIA. But getting it tailored is WAAYYY much better. The only argument detractors could come up, is you won't get to wear it more than once, and they make you get off the rack ones.

Its not necessary to follow the flock in getting your stuff tailored. Sure you think that AL seems to be the choice awards here. But not necessary as this shop is actually accommodating politically correct stuff to some forumers here. If you live near BU its Bespoked. If you live near Mid Valley its Granoff. If you live in Subang its Kinslager. If u are in KL then you could opt for AL. But really its just to accomodate where its convenient for you. If you are finicky on details, then its AL. Even then AL might not accommodate you like they accommodate Kotmj or bloke1.

Good luck.
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post Jul 10 2010, 11:50 PM

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Now that you mentioned it netmatrix, I was at Isetan KLCC and saw the Sparkmanshop counter there doing a fitting on a real customer!!!!!!!! Today!

Muahahahahah!! Ahahahaha!

THE WORST SUIT I HAVE SEEN IN MY LIFE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

......IN MY LIFE!!!

It didn't fit AT ALL, and two "tailors" were fussing over the customer who wore ......... a skinny fit T-shirt and looks totally clueless (as you have to be to use SparkMS).


Added on July 10, 2010, 11:53 pmIt was a black suit too.


Added on July 10, 2010, 11:58 pm
QUOTE(netmatrix2 @ Jul 10 2010, 11:43 PM)
If you hunt for your own fabric, you get what you want. Shops generally have limited colors. They would have black, but the fabric quality would differ and the prices change. The color FusionEx mentioned is actually a weird blue black kind of color. With bright light its blue, and under low light its black. This is actually a politically correct color for tuxedo. But its very rarely seen. Black is the generally accepted one. I do not know if most tailors stock midnight blue fabrics. Its best you check out how midnight blue looks like first.

Or you could opt for ready made ones. I've seen the ready made ones from Louis Remogue (Spark Manshop) in Metrojaya Mid Valley. They cost RM850. I do not know if alteration charges are included. But if you want to go that way, this is an option. Or BONIA. But getting it tailored is WAAYYY much better. The only argument detractors could come up, is you won't get to wear it more than once, and they make you get off the rack ones.

Its not necessary to follow the flock in getting your stuff tailored. Sure you think that AL seems to be the choice awards here. But not necessary as this shop is actually accommodating politically correct stuff to some forumers here. If you live near BU its Bespoked. If you live near Mid Valley its Granoff. If you live in Subang its Kinslager. If u are in KL then you could opt for AL. But really its just to accomodate where its convenient for you. If you are finicky on details, then its AL. Even then AL might not accommodate you like they accommodate Kotmj or bloke1.

Good luck.
*
I don't think you understand the pricing level of Granoff or Bespoked. They are 60%-80% more expensive than ALT.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Jul 10 2010, 11:58 PM
netmatrix2
post Jul 10 2010, 11:59 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Jul 10 2010, 11:50 PM)
Now that you mentioned it netmatrix, I was at Isetan KLCC and saw the Sparkmanshop counter there doing a fitting on a real customer!!!!!!!! Today!

Muahahahahah!! Ahahahaha!

THE WORST SUIT I HAVE SEEN IN MY LIFE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

......IN MY LIFE!!!

It didn't fit AT ALL, and two "tailors" were fussing over the customer who wore ......... a skinny fit T-shirt and looks totally clueless (as you have to be to use SparkMS).


Added on July 10, 2010, 11:53 pmIt was a black suit too.
*
Hey, i'm giving the guy options. Its not like i'm hard selling SMS to him. He could try. Don't like and move on. Like i said, if he was in some location that has tailors, he could look around for options.
mark2036
post Jul 11 2010, 12:09 AM

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Quick question, anyone know where to get vests/waistcoats in Kuala Lumpur? I mean off the rack, not tailor-made?

Also looking for a good 3 piece grey suit (designer or whatever) off the rack. My experience with tailors are that the finished product tends to be rubbish, rather see what I'm getting when I buy it. But I can't find anywhere in KL that sells three piece suits?

Thanks guys if anyone can help!

kotmj
post Jul 11 2010, 12:11 AM

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I know.

I encourage people to go forth, try new tailors, and give us (pictorial) reports. I asked the Tan Sri to try Henry Poole to compare it with ALT, I told the rascal rebecks to try Binwanis for trousers (but instead, he went to ALT and copied my ideas endlessly) , and I generally try steering people to use tailors whose work I am interested to know about. I myself will be using a new tailor (Miss Loke's) for my next suit.

kneok tried Richard's, and the reason I went there today was because he is a more masterful fitter than AL.

However, if you want to play it safe, just stick to Bespoked if you are rich and ALT if you are poor.


Added on July 11, 2010, 12:13 am
QUOTE(mark2036 @ Jul 11 2010, 12:09 AM)
Quick question, anyone know where to get vests/waistcoats in Kuala Lumpur? I mean off the rack, not tailor-made?

Also looking for a good 3 piece grey suit (designer or whatever) off the rack. My experience with tailors are that the finished product tends to be rubbish, rather see what I'm getting when I buy it. But I can't find anywhere in KL that sells three piece suits?

Thanks guys if anyone can help!
*
There is no such thing as a good OTR suit. They range from barely acceptable to hideous.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Jul 11 2010, 12:44 AM
netmatrix2
post Jul 11 2010, 01:16 AM

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QUOTE(mark2036 @ Jul 11 2010, 12:09 AM)
Quick question, anyone know where to get vests/waistcoats in Kuala Lumpur? I mean off the rack, not tailor-made?

Also looking for a good 3 piece grey suit (designer or whatever) off the rack. My experience with tailors are that the finished product tends to be rubbish, rather see what I'm getting when I buy it. But I can't find anywhere in KL that sells three piece suits?

Thanks guys if anyone can help!
*
I don't think its the correct month to find 3 piece stuff. Designer or otherwise. Its not fall or winter. The only place i could think off now to match 3 pieces off the rack is JUSCO of their in house SUAVE brand. i don't think even Emergildo Zegna or Canali has them. Unless you want to visit Brioni. Oh hell, go walk in Pavilion and see. hahaha.
silencer
post Jul 11 2010, 01:39 AM

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Sir kotmj, any luck finding horn buttons in Klang Valley area...had to cancell my intention to purchase it from onlinelining company after purchasing the Bemberg Cupro lining from another site....
kotmj
post Jul 11 2010, 01:39 AM

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Zegna has gone crazy! Their mannequins are all dressed in shorts and T-shirts.


Added on July 11, 2010, 1:45 am
QUOTE(silencer @ Jul 11 2010, 01:39 AM)
Sir kotmj, any luck finding horn buttons in Klang Valley area...had to cancell my intention to purchase it from onlinelining company after purchasing the Bemberg Cupro lining from another site....
*
I kennot tell you ler...it's a secret.

Very, very nice horn buttons in KL. RM4.50/piece. Very limited stock, you will buy up everything I'm sure.


Added on July 11, 2010, 1:49 amBut walnek knows. You can ask him.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Jul 11 2010, 01:49 AM
silencer
post Jul 11 2010, 02:04 AM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Jul 11 2010, 01:39 AM)
I kennot tell you ler...it's a secret.

Very, very nice horn buttons in KL. RM4.50/piece. Very limited stock, you will buy up everything I'm sure.


Added on July 11, 2010, 1:49 amBut walnek knows. You can ask him.
*
arghhhhh.....walnek had been missing for soo long.....will try to sms him.....thnx

By the way...went to AL yesterday....and he show me a full canvassing suit made by Savile Row....thinking on trying a full canvassing suit for my next suit..at ALT.....

This post has been edited by silencer: Jul 11 2010, 02:09 AM
kotmj
post Jul 11 2010, 02:08 AM

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Walnek isn't missing, he just PM'd me a few days ago to complain about AL price-gouging him on a pair of trousers.


Added on July 11, 2010, 2:11 am
QUOTE(silencer @ Jul 11 2010, 02:04 AM)
arghhhhh.....walnek had been missing for soo long.....will try to sms him.....thnx

By the way...went to AL yesterday....and he show me a full canvassing suit made by Savile Row....thinking on trying a full canvassing suit for my next suit..at ALT.....
*
Noooo! Where did he get that suit from? Name of tailor?

This post has been edited by kotmj: Jul 11 2010, 02:11 AM
silencer
post Jul 11 2010, 02:12 AM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Jul 11 2010, 02:08 AM)
Walnek isn't missing, he just PM'd me a few days ago to complain about AL price-gouging him.
*
He is not only one gettin affected by it....but AL workmanship quality really satisfy me so far...
kotmj
post Jul 11 2010, 02:15 AM

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Think of it as charity.
silencer
post Jul 11 2010, 02:21 AM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Jul 11 2010, 02:15 AM)
Think of it as charity.
*
charity...??? his shop land costs millions..if he sell it.....


Added on July 11, 2010, 2:29 am
QUOTE(kotmj @ Jul 11 2010, 02:08 AM)
Noooo! Where did he get that suit from? Name of tailor?
*
Couldnt remember the name....one of AL customer sent it to AL for alteration..and I was speechless when touching it for the first time....must be very comfortable wearing it.....

This post has been edited by silencer: Jul 11 2010, 02:29 AM
bloke1
post Jul 11 2010, 11:13 AM

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QUOTE(netmatrix2 @ Jul 10 2010, 11:43 PM)
If u are in KL then you could opt for AL. But really its just to accomodate where its convenient for you. If you are finicky on details, then its AL. Even then AL might not accommodate you like they accommodate Kotmj or bloke1.

Good luck.
*
Actually, I'm not an AL client.

QUOTE
I myself will be using a new tailor (Miss Loke's) for my next suit.


I see that you're dreaming again. sweat.gif
kotmj
post Jul 11 2010, 11:46 AM

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You are certainly moving in the right direction. You've finally woken up to my immense sense of personal style and I encourage you to keep using my fit pics as avatars.
bloke1
post Jul 11 2010, 12:09 PM

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I like the woody. So strong, Kuatmj.
mark2036
post Jul 11 2010, 01:40 PM

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QUOTE(netmatrix2 @ Jul 11 2010, 01:16 AM)
I don't think its the correct month to find 3 piece stuff. Designer or otherwise. Its not fall or winter. The only place i could think off now to match 3 pieces off the rack is JUSCO of their in house SUAVE brand. i don't think even Emergildo Zegna or Canali has them. Unless you want to visit Brioni. Oh hell, go walk in Pavilion and see. hahaha.
*
Thanks netmatrix, yep I did the Pavillion walk yesterday tongue.gif. Your right, Canali or any other designer shops i went to had no vests or 3 pieces sad.gif. But most do have summer sales which are tempting!

Will check out Brioni? Else bite the bullet and just go to Bespoke to get one made. Hope they are good!

Pictured below is what I was kinda aiming for....

user posted image
kotmj
post Jul 11 2010, 02:27 PM

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QUOTE(bloke1 @ Jul 11 2010, 12:09 PM)
I like the woody. So strong, Kuatmj.
*
Gay kuo long...

I saw an unlined/self-lined linen jacket just now. It is constructed very differently indeed. Wanted to buy it as a sample for my tailor to copy, but it costs RM60. Haih.


Added on July 11, 2010, 3:46 pmuser posted image

Damn I like this.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Jul 11 2010, 03:46 PM
bloke1
post Jul 11 2010, 06:35 PM

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Yawwnn

Please show us something inspiring like this...
user posted image
netmatrix2
post Jul 11 2010, 11:09 PM

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QUOTE(mark2036 @ Jul 11 2010, 01:40 PM)
Thanks netmatrix, yep I did the Pavillion walk yesterday tongue.gif. Your right, Canali or any other designer shops i went to had no vests or 3 pieces sad.gif. But most do have summer sales which are tempting!

Will check out Brioni? Else bite the bullet and just go to Bespoke to get one made. Hope they are good!

Pictured below is what I was kinda aiming for....

user posted image
*
I like the fabric and color. But i do not like the high vest. It seems like the vest is unattached to the suit. From what i know, the best it getting just 1 top vest button showing, so it does not seem the vest is trying to gain advantage over the suit jacket. The pic you show is more of modern kind of thing. I see a lot of Korean look like this. But if it works for you then go ahead. Maybe the tailor could show you how to do it. Because seriously stuff from pictures may or may not work for everyone. Good luck.

This post has been edited by netmatrix2: Jul 11 2010, 11:10 PM
silencer
post Jul 11 2010, 11:17 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Jul 11 2010, 02:27 PM)
Gay kuo long...

I saw an unlined/self-lined linen jacket just now. It is constructed very differently indeed. Wanted to buy it as a sample for my tailor to copy, but it costs RM60. Haih.


Added on July 11, 2010, 3:46 pmuser posted image

Damn I like this.
*
i know u like the guy in the picture.......Miss Loke might feeling a bit down now...bec of your statement sweat.gif


Added on July 11, 2010, 11:18 pm
QUOTE(mark2036 @ Jul 11 2010, 01:40 PM)
Thanks netmatrix, yep I did the Pavillion walk yesterday tongue.gif. Your right, Canali or any other designer shops i went to had no vests or 3 pieces sad.gif. But most do have summer sales which are tempting!

Will check out Brioni? Else bite the bullet and just go to Bespoke to get one made. Hope they are good!

Pictured below is what I was kinda aiming for....

user posted image
*
Trust me....it will only take 3 weeks at most for u to bespoke 3 piece suit from AL...

This post has been edited by silencer: Jul 11 2010, 11:18 PM
kneok
post Jul 12 2010, 01:42 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Jul 10 2010, 08:46 PM)
Review: Richard's Tailor Ampang Park

From a basted jacket: Collar interlining is sew-in polyester, not linen. Buttonholes machine-made, badly. Lapels non-padded. Interior finishing underwhelming, unlike Granoff or Bespoked. The thickest pre-fab shoulder pads I've seen in my life, about 1" thick at the ends. House silhouette: NFL player shoulders, slightly open quarters, thin droopy lapels, mild waisting (more than AL). Very clean back and sleeves, but no drape at back of armsyce which means arm movement forwards is impossible. Armholes medium height (neither high nor low).

The thing about buttonholes is that, if you have any aspiration towards "fine tailoring", they need to be hand-sewn. Machine sewn on a specialized suit-button making machine is bad enough, but machine sewn on a normal sewing machine is the most terrible crime of all. It is essentially a shirt buttonhole, only larger.

He kept reminding me that what I was seeing is a jacket for fitting. The finished jacket, he said, will look different and will not have all the guts hanging around. He said it 4 times. I kept saying "Of course, of course." On the fifth time he said it, I said "BUT OF COURSE, MAN. I HAVE BEEN TO MANY FITTINGS AND HAVE HAD MANY SUITS MADE SO PLEASE KEEP QUIET!" He kept quiet.

He also showed me a finished suit. RM550 for labour, but faux cuffs, no this no that forgetaboutit.

He showed me a shirt. No collar bone pocket, low density sewing, no French seams, machine-sewn buttons, bleh bleh yawn. RM100 for labour.
*
told you, man. un-coach-able?
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post Jul 12 2010, 02:19 PM

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QUOTE(kneok @ Jul 12 2010, 01:42 PM)
told you, man. un-coach-able?
*
Definitely coachable. He has potential.
beau
post Jul 12 2010, 06:23 PM

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QUOTE(mark2036 @ Jul 11 2010, 01:40 PM)
Thanks netmatrix, yep I did the Pavillion walk yesterday tongue.gif. Your right, Canali or any other designer shops i went to had no vests or 3 pieces sad.gif. But most do have summer sales which are tempting!

Will check out Brioni? Else bite the bullet and just go to Bespoke to get one made. Hope they are good!

Pictured below is what I was kinda aiming for....

user posted image
*
Was in KLCC yesterday .

Didn't see any 3 piece suits at Brioni

Perhaps you would like to go Bespoke
pendekar111
post Jul 12 2010, 08:25 PM

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Dear all,

Thanks for the prompt replies. I figured maybe a tuxedo might not be worth the investment due to possible one-time wear. I have just a couple more questions:

1) Where is a good place in the Klang valley to buy material for a suit? I am assuming that I should buy the accompanying buttons as well?

2) Are the tailors always ok that you use your own material. Would I have to check with them 1st?

3) Has anyone has any experience with Kinslager?

Thanks yet again!
kotmj
post Jul 12 2010, 10:38 PM

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Most tailors have an extensive stock of cloth for you to choose from. Sourcing them yourself will be cheaper, but it requires profound knowledge to make the right choice.

It's perfectly OK to bring own material.

Why Kinslager? You in love with them or something?
hitokai
post Jul 13 2010, 01:59 PM

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knew where i can get tis tailored? need the exact colour and cut tho...


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image
kotmj
post Jul 14 2010, 10:26 AM

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On page N2 of The Star today, you get to see DSN with the Sultan of Brunei. Both are wearing navy SBs with white shirts. The SoB's sleeves are very long, and show no cuffs whatsoever.
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post Jul 14 2010, 10:43 AM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Jul 14 2010, 10:26 AM)
On page N2 of The Star today, you get to see DSN with the Sultan of Brunei. Both are wearing navy SBs with white shirts. The SoB's sleeves are very long, and show no cuffs whatsoever.
*
Last month's August Man's magazine carried an article on malaysian tailoring. Recommended a few tailor shops according to respective budgets. Vincent tailor was recommended for making suits below RM1000
netmatrix
post Jul 14 2010, 01:15 PM

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QUOTE(pendekar111 @ Jul 12 2010, 08:25 PM)
Dear all,

Thanks for the prompt replies. I figured maybe a tuxedo might not be worth the investment due to possible one-time wear.  I have just a couple more questions:

1) Where is a good place in the Klang valley to buy material for a suit? I am assuming that I should buy the accompanying buttons as well?

If you want to hunt for fabrics, Jln Tuanku Abdul Rahman. But for suiting fabrics, its really limited to your imagination. But once you reach that section, be bombarded by white, grey, blue and black, the general color. From there on, you just look at the fabric you want. If you like the color, and how it feels then proceed to use some more info gathered from the internet. Like polyester vs wool. Linen vs cotton and such. But really is you are first timer it is very difficult. Unless you have gone and make clothes with your own fabrics before, its kind of tough. Most fabric shops does not sell buttons. You need to find tailoring supplies shop for that. Jln TAR has some but most close on Sundays. If its difficult, you could use their in house stuff and save the shopping time.

2) Are the tailors always ok that you use your own material. Would I have to check with them 1st?

Most of the time they will be ok with it. Unless you bring them fabric that is hard to work with, they might turn you down. Or make you pay more.


3) Has anyone has any experience with Kinslager?

This shop actually is being told first by Lanatir another forummer. He didn't have anything made there before. I think neither of us have too. But at times their promo prices look pretty good. Last time they advertised a tuxedo for only RM12xx something, forgot already. But its really just a tailor shop option closes to anyone living in Subang Jaya. We don't know their workanship level too. The ones that are experienced by some forummers here are the ones you hear everytime. Bespoke, AL and such. Why not you be the first? tongue.gif

Thanks yet again!
*
This post has been edited by netmatrix: Jul 14 2010, 01:16 PM
beau
post Jul 14 2010, 09:52 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Jul 14 2010, 10:26 AM)
On page N2 of The Star today, you get to see DSN with the Sultan of Brunei. Both are wearing navy SBs with white shirts. The SoB's sleeves are very long, and show no cuffs whatsoever.
*
DSN is not a very adventurous dresser is he? Matching PS & tie?

BTW , have you managed to get Ah Loke to improve the quality of his button holes where suits are concerned?

I would be interested in trying him out if you have.

I had a quick peek at Bespoked and they seem to have very well finished button holes on their jackets.

I have just purchased some fabric (1.5 m) in kid mohair & wool from Ebay and was thinking of having ALT make trousers in a similar design to yours with the inclusion of a fish tail back.
How much material did you purchase for the trouser lining?
I am thinking of having the trousers lined to below the knee.
kotmj
post Jul 14 2010, 11:22 PM

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QUOTE(beau @ Jul 14 2010, 09:52 PM)
DSN is not a very adventurous dresser is he? Matching PS & tie?

BTW , have you managed to get Ah Loke to improve the quality of his button holes where suits are concerned?

I would be interested in trying him out if you have.

I had a quick peek at Bespoked and they seem to have very well finished button holes on their jackets.

I have just purchased some fabric (1.5 m) in kid mohair & wool from Ebay and was thinking of having ALT make trousers in a similar design to yours with the inclusion of a fish tail back.
How much material did you purchase for the trouser lining?
I am thinking of having the trousers lined to below the knee.
*
His trouser buttonholes are machine-sewn. On my next suit, I will make the buttonholes myself.

He provides the trouser lining.

A fish tail back can only be worn with braces. You will look like Larry King if you do not wear a jacket with it.
mango27
post Jul 15 2010, 12:44 AM

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any suggestion for places to rent a suit? reasonable price and nice... hehe...
im just using it for convocation in 2 weeks time... dun want to rush scared the workmanship will be affected...

im staying in Puchong area... anywhere in kl and sleangor area would be fine for me...
beau
post Jul 15 2010, 10:54 AM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Jul 14 2010, 11:22 PM)
His trouser buttonholes are machine-sewn. On my next suit, I will make the buttonholes myself.

He provides the trouser lining.

A fish tail back can only be worn with braces. You will look like Larry King if you do not wear a jacket with it.
*
Thanks-I like the "V" cut at the rear of the trousers as it allows some flexing of the waistline especially after one too many bowls of laksa
malutapimau
post Jul 15 2010, 05:16 PM

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you'll need hidden elastic waistbands then-----------
kotmj
post Jul 15 2010, 08:59 PM

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QUOTE(beau @ Jul 15 2010, 10:54 AM)
Thanks-I like the "V" cut at the rear of the trousers as it allows some flexing of the waistline especially after one too many bowls of laksa
*
A split waistband is quite different from a fishtail back. This is a split waistband

user posted image

while this is a fishtail back

user posted image
bloke1
post Jul 15 2010, 09:09 PM

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Isn't that my thumb? Oh, there you go again.
kotmj
post Jul 15 2010, 09:12 PM

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Just trying to cheer you up.
bloke1
post Jul 15 2010, 09:30 PM

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Even a Caraceni jacket won't make me any happier.


Added on July 15, 2010, 9:46 pmOn a more happier note, I think my thumb looks nice.

This post has been edited by bloke1: Jul 15 2010, 09:46 PM
kotmj
post Jul 15 2010, 09:47 PM

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i doubt that statement


Added on July 15, 2010, 9:56 pm
QUOTE(bloke1 @ Jul 15 2010, 09:30 PM)
Even a Caraceni jacket won't make me any happier.


Added on July 15, 2010, 9:46 pmOn a more happier note, I think my thumb looks nice.
*
You should show your face someday.


Added on July 15, 2010, 10:02 pmuser posted image
user posted image

The best so far by yfyf.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Jul 15 2010, 10:02 PM
U+FFFD
post Jul 16 2010, 12:25 AM


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QUOTE(kotmj @ Jul 15 2010, 09:47 PM)

Added on July 15, 2010, 10:02 pm
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


The best so far by yfyf.
*
Yes, his latest pic left me in awe as I thought yfyf only spots interesting tie/lapel pins. Now he even puts on a cutesy flower.

This post has been edited by Fusion[eX]: Jul 17 2010, 10:51 AM
lanatir
post Jul 16 2010, 09:25 AM

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the suits in Inception are really nice
beau
post Jul 16 2010, 11:18 AM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Jul 15 2010, 08:59 PM)
A split waistband is quite different from a fishtail back. This is a split waistband

user posted image

while this is a fishtail back

user posted image
*
Thank. It makes sense to have a split waist band as opposed to a fish tail back ( unless one plans to wear the trousers as part of a suit with braces )

Did you make yours with a split waist band?

Will Ah Loke tear out his hair if I make that request?
beau
post Jul 16 2010, 11:20 AM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Jul 15 2010, 09:47 PM)
i doubt that statement


Added on July 15, 2010, 9:56 pm
You should show your face someday.


Added on July 15, 2010, 10:02 pmuser posted image
user posted image

The best so far by yfyf.
*

Nice-
1. Where did you make/purchase that suit?
2. Where did you get that knitted tie?
3. Is that a JLC Reverso watch on your wrist?
MeToo
post Jul 16 2010, 11:33 AM

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QUOTE(beau @ Jul 16 2010, 11:20 AM)
Nice-
1. Where did you make/purchase that suit?
2. Where did you get that knitted tie?
3. Is that a JLC Reverso watch on your wrist?
*
I'm more interested to know if the flower comes with the pocket square...
bloke1
post Jul 16 2010, 11:35 AM

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QUOTE(beau @ Jul 16 2010, 11:20 AM)
Nice-
1. Where did you make/purchase that suit?
2. Where did you get that knitted tie?
3. Is that a JLC Reverso watch on your wrist?
*
In his dreams. Kakmj leased the outfit from yfyf.
U+FFFD
post Jul 16 2010, 11:59 AM


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QUOTE(beau @ Jul 16 2010, 11:20 AM)
Nice-
1. Where did you make/purchase that suit?
2. Where did you get that knitted tie?
3. Is that a JLC Reverso watch on your wrist?
*
That is not kokmj. yfyf is a far superior being.

And yes, he is wearing a JLC Reverso

Attached Image

This post has been edited by Fusion[eX]: Jul 16 2010, 12:05 PM
beau
post Jul 16 2010, 12:08 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Jul 14 2010, 11:22 PM)
His trouser buttonholes are machine-sewn. On my next suit, I will make the buttonholes myself.

He provides the trouser lining.

A fish tail back can only be worn with braces. You will look like Larry King if you do not wear a jacket with it.
*
[img=http://img45.imagevenue.com/loc396/th_51401_L1000823_122_396lo.JPG]
[img=http://img11.imagevenue.com/loc156/th_51677_L1000824_122_156lo.JPG]

These are sleeve button holes when they are done well.


Added on July 16, 2010, 12:11 pm
QUOTE(FusioneX @ Jul 16 2010, 11:59 AM)
That is not kokmj. yfyf is a far superior being.

And yes, he is wearing a JLC Reverso

Attached Image
*
Nice

Would you happen to know where he tailored/purchased his suit ( as the case may be )?

This post has been edited by beau: Jul 16 2010, 12:11 PM
bloke1
post Jul 16 2010, 01:19 PM

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QUOTE(FusioneX @ Jul 16 2010, 11:59 AM)
That is not kokmj. yfyf is a far superior being.

And yes, he is wearing a JLC Reverso

*
Have I told you I share the same birthday with him?
kotmj
post Jul 16 2010, 02:15 PM

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QUOTE(beau @ Jul 16 2010, 12:08 PM)
[img=http://img45.imagevenue.com/loc396/th_51401_L1000823_122_396lo.JPG]
        [img=http://img11.imagevenue.com/loc156/th_51677_L1000824_122_156lo.JPG]
     
These are sleeve button holes when they are done well.


Added on July 16, 2010, 12:11 pm

Nice

Would you happen to know where he tailored/purchased his suit ( as the case may be )?
*
Most of his suits are from WWChan in Hong Kong, but the specimen I posted is atypical of a Chan.
beau
post Jul 16 2010, 06:30 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Jul 16 2010, 02:15 PM)
Most of his suits are from WWChan in Hong Kong, but the specimen I posted is atypical of a Chan.
*
Thanks

Finish of suit from the picture appears fine with the following exceptions:-

1. Stripes do not seem to be aligned on lapel & arm
2. Pipping on pocket (jettings) do not seem to have aligned stripes

I have not tried WW Chan but have read & heard wonderful reviews about them.

The samples I have seen were reasonably impressive.

May try them if my HK trips stretch for a week instead of the current 1 / 2 day jaunts.

My HK tailor experience have not been pleasant:-
I have deliberately omitted the prices as it was sometime back (pre 1997 ) when I visited the establishments below:-
1. H Baroman
This was allegedly the best tailor ( & the most expensive ) in HK once upon a time. Frequented by Tai-Pans, it had a reputation that rivaled the Row.
I visited the shop ( the mall between Standard Chartered & HSBC Building ) & was attended to by some officious individual. When I requested to view samples of their work ( I do this with every tailor I visit irregardless of country), the officious individual gave me a look & quoted a price in a tone that implied that I couldn't afford their services. In almost the same breath , he told me that I should have a dark 2 piece suit-So much for bespoke services. Needless to say I did not make anything there. I am of the view that they are living on their past glory similar to some houses on the Row.

2. Sams tailor , Burlington House, TST
Sams allegedly makes cheap suits for the famous & uniforms for HM's Arm Forces You will see pictures of Prince Charles, George Bush (Sr) & Bill Clinton adorning his wall. The prices he quoted me was cheap even by HK standards . When asked when the next fitting will be, the Indian gentleman who attended to me said that there is no need for one as they are very experienced in assessing a customer's figuration!! ( I was a bespoke virgin then & didn't know better )The measurement process etc was very quick & the man nodded in agreement to all my requests ( higher arm holes , waisted jacket etc)
The suit arrived in the mail a week later . The only 2 things positive I can say was the suit was cheap ( & looked correspondingly with the price paid ) & the trousers was well tailored.
I will post pictures at a later date as evidence of my folly.

3. Ah Man Hin Cheong, Mandarin Oriental Mall.
I was recommended by a friend who swears by this establishment.
I took the opportunity to sample their services when I was in HK for 1 week.
The service was reasonably polite ( this is HK BTW) & they spent some time talking to me to assess my needs etc before reverting with their recommendations. The thing that struck me was the comment " I think we can do better " when the cutter who measured me looked at the suit I was wearing.
He recommended an English Fabric ( 130s wool ) which was reasonably crease resistant and a scarlet lining of Shantung Silk. He also made notes of the usual details & requirements ( single or double breasted, how many buttons on cuffs, pleated or flat front trousers etc.
He then proceeded to measure me & spoke in a dialect I did not comprehend ( I think it was Shanghainese ) to a younger individual who duly noted the details. This went on for quite a while & I reckon that at least 30 to 40 measurements were taken before he called it a day & informed me that I could have my first fitting in 2 days.
Time came for the fitting and I was reasonably pleased with the works in progress. The crunch came when I started asking some questions on whether the length of the jacket could be left as is. The sifu was not very pleased as he felt that the jacket was too long & should be shorten ( I like my Jacket slightly on the long side ) , higher & smaller arm holes , less padding on shoulder etc.
The exchange I had was similar to your initial encounter with Ah Loke. Si Fu shook his head retorting in English & Cantonese (not nice sir etc.. or words to that effect.
Nevertheless , he took down what I thought were my instructions & feedback.
Second fitting came 2 days later with the semi finished suit & I was surprised that my feedback was largely ignored in favor of the Si Fu's !!
I made my requests again and another polite exchange in Cantonese & English, along with the occasional Shanghainese phrases ensued.
" How you move your arms like that if I make jacket the way you want?" etc..
Nevertheless, he took down what I thought was my feedback & request & ask me to return 2 days later for the final fitting. I asked for the suit not to be finished to enable adjustments to be made, if necessary.
The final fitting was that- a finished suit with the exception of the cuff buttonholes . I was shocked to discover than none of my feedback was taken into account at which point I was so exasperated ( I was supposed to leave HK that day )
The prices , I remember were not cheap even for those days . The best way to describe the suit is it's made for a much older individual. Not one of my favorite suits which is a pity given the reasonably fine finish ( with the exception of the cuff button holes which could have been better )
Not a repeat customer here!!

Nevertheless I've had some good experiences as well with regards to bespoke shirts in HK.

1. David's shirts ( Mandarin Oriental Mall near Ah Man Hin Cheong )
I have some shirts from there which are 10 years old ( which I still wear occasionally ) The finish of the shirts are excellent ( matching panels & stripes etc ) but the fit could have been better.

2. Ascot Chang ( various locations -I go to the one at Princes Building )
Ascot Chang claims to be the best shirt maker in HK and ranks itself with the world's best with corresponding prices to match. The fit & finish of the final product is excellent as it the service. The only bugbear is the constant
push to have shirts made in the most expensive fabric with the highest thread count ( D & J Andersen etc ) . A sure way to see disdain on the face of the sales person is to request for "lesser" fabrics eg Acorn 100s 2 ply.
I might as well asked to have shirts made in polyester!!

Thanks for providing feedback & sharing your experiences with us. I am still new on the local scene & hope to benefit from your knowledge

kotmj
post Jul 16 2010, 07:20 PM

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QUOTE(beau @ Jul 16 2010, 06:30 PM)
Thanks

Finish of suit from the picture appears fine with the following exceptions:-

1. Stripes do not seem to be aligned on lapel & arm
2. Pipping on pocket (jettings) do not seem to have aligned stripes

I have not tried WW Chan but have read & heard wonderful reviews about them.

The samples I have seen were reasonably impressive.

May try them if my HK trips stretch for a week instead of the current 1 / 2 day jaunts.

My HK tailor experience have not been pleasant:-
I have deliberately omitted the prices as it was sometime back (pre 1997 ) when I visited the establishments below:-
1. H Baroman
    This was allegedly the best tailor ( & the most expensive ) in HK once upon a time. Frequented by Tai-Pans, it had a reputation that rivaled the Row.
    I visited the shop ( the mall between Standard Chartered & HSBC Building ) & was attended to by some officious individual. When I requested to view samples of their work ( I do this with every tailor I visit irregardless of country), the officious individual gave me a look & quoted a price in a tone that implied that I couldn't afford their services. In almost the same breath , he told me that I should have a dark 2 piece suit-So much for bespoke services. Needless to say I did not make anything there. I am of the view that they are living on their past glory similar to some houses on the Row.

2. Sams tailor , Burlington House, TST
    Sams allegedly makes cheap suits for the famous & uniforms for HM's Arm Forces You will see pictures of Prince Charles, George Bush (Sr) & Bill Clinton adorning his wall. The prices he quoted me was cheap even by HK standards . When asked when the next fitting will be, the Indian gentleman who attended to me said that there is no need for one as they are very experienced in assessing a customer's figuration!! ( I was a bespoke virgin then & didn't know better )The measurement process etc was very quick & the man nodded in agreement to all my requests ( higher arm holes , waisted jacket etc)
   The suit arrived in the mail a week later . The only 2 things positive I can say was the suit was cheap ( & looked correspondingly with the price paid ) & the trousers was well tailored.
   I will post pictures at a later date as evidence of my folly.

3. Ah Man Hin Cheong, Mandarin Oriental Mall.
    I was recommended by a friend who swears by this establishment.
    I took the opportunity to sample their services when I was in HK for 1 week.
    The service was reasonably polite ( this is HK BTW) & they spent some time talking to me to assess my needs etc before reverting with their recommendations. The thing that struck me was the comment " I think we can do better " when the cutter who measured me looked at the suit I was wearing.
   He recommended an English Fabric ( 130s wool ) which was reasonably crease resistant and a scarlet lining of Shantung Silk. He also made notes of the usual details & requirements ( single or double breasted, how many buttons on cuffs, pleated or flat front trousers etc.
   He then proceeded to measure me & spoke in a dialect I did not comprehend ( I think it was Shanghainese ) to a younger individual who duly noted the details. This went on for quite a while & I reckon that at least 30 to 40 measurements were taken before he called it a day & informed me that I could have my first fitting in 2 days.
   Time came for the fitting and I was reasonably pleased with the works in progress. The crunch came when I started asking some questions on whether the length of the jacket could be left as is. The sifu was not very pleased as he felt that the jacket was too long & should be shorten ( I like my Jacket slightly on the long side ) , higher & smaller arm holes , less padding on shoulder etc.
   The exchange I had was similar to your initial encounter with Ah Loke. Si Fu shook his head retorting in English & Cantonese (not nice sir etc.. or words to that effect.
   Nevertheless , he took down what I thought were my instructions & feedback.
   Second fitting came 2 days later with the semi finished suit & I was surprised that my feedback was largely ignored in favor of the Si Fu's !!
   I made my requests again and another polite exchange in Cantonese & English, along with the occasional Shanghainese phrases ensued.
   " How you move your arms like that if I make jacket the way you want?" etc..
   Nevertheless, he took down what I thought was my feedback & request & ask me to return 2 days later for the final fitting. I asked for the suit not to be finished to enable adjustments to be made, if necessary.
   The final fitting was that- a finished suit with the exception of the cuff buttonholes . I was shocked to discover than none of my feedback was taken into account at which point I was so exasperated ( I was supposed to leave HK that day )
   The prices , I remember were not cheap even for those days . The best way to describe the suit is it's made for a much older individual. Not one of my favorite suits which is a pity given the reasonably fine finish ( with the exception of the cuff button holes which could have been better )
  Not a repeat customer here!!

Nevertheless I've had some good experiences as well with regards to bespoke shirts in HK.

1. David's shirts ( Mandarin Oriental Mall near Ah Man Hin Cheong )
   I have some shirts from there which are 10 years old ( which I still wear occasionally ) The finish of the shirts are excellent ( matching panels & stripes etc ) but the fit could have been better.

2. Ascot Chang ( various locations -I go to the one at Princes Building )
    Ascot Chang claims to be the best shirt maker in HK and ranks itself with the world's best with corresponding prices to match. The fit & finish of the final product is excellent as it the service. The only bugbear is the constant
push to have shirts made in the most expensive fabric with the highest thread count ( D & J Andersen etc ) . A sure way to see disdain on the face of the sales person is to request for "lesser" fabrics eg Acorn 100s 2 ply.
I might as well asked to have shirts made in polyester!!

Thanks for providing feedback & sharing your experiences with us. I am still new on the local scene & hope to benefit from your knowledge
*
Sam's is a tourist trap. You can read about him on styleforum. Nobody has anything good to say about him.

I actually showed Ah Loke a pic of a AMHC suit to give him an idea of what I wanted at the first fitting. It was made for whoopee, a young American-Chinese guy formerly based in HK and Singapore with an uncanny ability to make tailors give him what he wants. Here is the AMHC suit of his I printed out for Ah Loke to take inspiration from:

Attached Image Attached Image Attached Image Attached Image Attached Image

As you can see, the fit is technically perfect and the silhouette is most youthful.

The no. 1 problem bespeakers have when guiding their tailors is to make their tailors take them seriously as capable bespeakers. 99.999% of customers are perfectly clueless, but try guiding their tailors anyhow, and tailors pretend to listen. If they are insistent, tailors try to demonstrate that they know better. There is always a point in a conversation (I hold such conversations with engineers, technicians, purchasers etc. everyday as part of my job) when someone subtly tries to brush off your demands. You will only notice this from the body language -- a short break in eye contact, a somewhat stiff posture. You must catch the person at this point and BORE IN. "No, you don't understand," you say, "on Tuesday when I put this on again I want to see a waist so f***ing narrow it can hardly fit me." Then you pause. And pause. "Do you get it?" you ask him. You dwell on this. Never let him brush it off.

It is great to have such a big timer as you on this forum.


Added on July 16, 2010, 8:12 pm
QUOTE(beau @ Jul 16 2010, 12:08 PM)
user posted image
user posted image
     
Those buttonholes are orgasm-inducing. Who made them?

This post has been edited by kotmj: Jul 16 2010, 08:38 PM
bloke1
post Jul 16 2010, 09:17 PM

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Phat Guido is in Malaysia.
beau
post Jul 17 2010, 10:06 AM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Jul 16 2010, 07:20 PM)
Sam's is a tourist trap. You can read about him on styleforum. Nobody has anything good to say about him.

I actually showed Ah Loke a pic of a AMHC suit to give him an idea of what I wanted at the first fitting. It was made for whoopee, a young American-Chinese guy formerly based in HK and Singapore with an uncanny ability to make tailors give him what he wants. Here is the AMHC suit of his I printed out for Ah Loke to take inspiration from:

Attached Image Attached Image Attached Image Attached Image Attached Image

As you can see, the fit is technically perfect and the silhouette is most youthful.

The no. 1 problem bespeakers have when guiding their tailors is to make their tailors take them seriously as capable bespeakers. 99.999% of customers are perfectly clueless, but try guiding their tailors anyhow, and tailors pretend to listen. If they are insistent, tailors try to demonstrate that they know better. There is always a point in a conversation (I hold such conversations with engineers, technicians, purchasers etc. everyday as part of my job) when someone subtly tries to brush off your demands. You will only notice this from the body language -- a short break in eye contact, a somewhat stiff posture. You must catch the person at this point and BORE IN. "No, you don't understand," you say, "on Tuesday when I put this on again I want to see a waist so f***ing narrow it can hardly fit me." Then you pause. And pause. "Do you get it?" you ask him. You dwell on this. Never let him brush it off.

It is great to have such a big timer as you on this forum.


Added on July 16, 2010, 8:12 pm
Those buttonholes are orgasm-inducing. Who made them?
*
Thanks for the compliment but I'm learning new things all the time .

The buttonholes was made by an Italian lady who lives in a village outside Linate. It was extremely time consuming & can take up to 8 hours depending on the client's specifications.

She first machines the holes with fine thread & remove the machine thread & repeats the process by hand. She's been doing button holes for the last 15 years ( or so I'm told ) & underwent training for 3 years before she was allowed to make for customers.

The effect is excellent as it has a slightly raised 3 D effect.

If you can persuade or train Ah Loke to replicate this to the same quality., we should nominate you for some honor at the next Agung's birthday.

Sam's is a real disaster but an expensive one given the fact that the prices he charged then were similar to that of Thai tailors.

Your friend seem to have better luck & perhaps more time ( & patience ) in dealing with Ah Man. If I were living in HK, I would have constantly beat on the Si Fu until I got my way, much like what you did to Ah Loke. Friends who went for 4 to 5 fittings eventually got what they wanted !!Tailoring in a sense is building a relationship between the craftman or artisan & the customer. I'll post pictures of a jacket that took 9 months in the making by an Italian artisan that was 9 months in the making.

In the meantime please find enclosed pictures of my AMHC suit.

If the jacket was sufficiently long to cover the base of my seat & the cuff button holes better finished, it would be almost perfect!!
[img=http://img109.imagevenue.com/loc410/th_27376_L1000794_122_410lo.JPG][img=http://img168.imagevenue.com/loc661/th_27530_L1000796_122_661lo.JPG][img=http://img220.imagevenue.com/loc752/th_27689_L1000797_122_752lo.JPG]
[img=http://img179.imagevenue.com/loc415/th_27819_L1000798_122_415lo.JPG][img=http://img23.imagevenue.com/loc93/th_27980_L1000799_122_93lo.JPG][img=http://img254.imagevenue.com/loc116/th_28135_L1000800_122_116lo.JPG]
[img=http://img203.imagevenue.com/loc3/th_28293_L1000802_122_3lo.JPG][img=http://img22.imagevenue.com/loc178/th_28451_L1000804_122_178lo.JPG][img=http://img265.imagevenue.com/loc99/th_28618_L1000805_122_99lo.JPG]



bloke1
post Jul 17 2010, 01:28 PM

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Do you have any fit pics of the suit on you?

This post has been edited by bloke1: Jul 17 2010, 01:51 PM
beau
post Jul 17 2010, 03:41 PM

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QUOTE(bloke1 @ Jul 17 2010, 01:28 PM)
Do you have any fit pics of the suit on you?
*
It's been some time since I wore that suit ( for reasons stated in my postings )

I'll try it on & take pictures if time permits
lanatir
post Jul 17 2010, 09:15 PM

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here are some comparison shots of buttonholes on working sleeves

Ah Loke's work which many of you have seen

user posted image

user posted image

Granoff

user posted image

user posted image

Bespoked (I believe they are machined)

user posted image

user posted image
kotmj
post Jul 17 2010, 09:53 PM

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WTF you went to AL?

The Granoff has the best buttonholes. Can't believe Bespoked at their incredible prices would thau kung kam liew like that.

Please show your AL jacket on you, I want to see the fit.
netmatrix
post Jul 17 2010, 11:10 PM

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Lanatir does awesome Macro shots. I think he will only be happy until he lands a nanoscope. brows.gif

This post has been edited by netmatrix: Jul 17 2010, 11:11 PM
beau
post Jul 18 2010, 12:58 AM

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QUOTE(lanatir @ Jul 17 2010, 09:15 PM)
here are some comparison shots of buttonholes on working sleeves

Ah Loke's work which many of you have seen

user posted image

user posted image

Granoff

user posted image

user posted image

Bespoked (I believe they are machined)

user posted image

user posted image
*
Thanks for sharing. Is it possible to furnish a picture of the ALT cuffs with the buttons undone in order to better assess the quality of the finish?
kotmj
post Jul 18 2010, 01:26 AM

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Jesus I get it now. That AL jacket was made with the Thomas Fisher Cape Breeze cloth! Did you get the cloth through him or directly from Dugdale yourself?
lanatir
post Jul 18 2010, 02:29 AM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Jul 17 2010, 09:53 PM)
WTF you went to AL?

The Granoff has the best buttonholes. Can't believe Bespoked at their incredible prices would thau kung kam liew like that.

Please show your AL jacket on you, I want to see the fit.
*
yes i did the jacket in ALT early in 2010. some 'tropical wool' he had in store. not any thomas fisher cloth. when i get a chance, i'll take a fit shot.

beau, here u go

user posted image


Added on July 18, 2010, 2:32 am
QUOTE(netmatrix @ Jul 17 2010, 11:10 PM)
Lanatir does awesome Macro shots. I think he will only be happy until he lands a nanoscope.  brows.gif
*
got nanoscope ah? blink.gif

This post has been edited by lanatir: Jul 18 2010, 02:32 AM
kotmj
post Jul 18 2010, 04:03 AM

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Of the 3, who makes the fairest jacket?
beau
post Jul 18 2010, 08:54 AM

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QUOTE(lanatir @ Jul 18 2010, 02:29 AM)
yes i did the jacket in ALT early in 2010. some 'tropical wool' he had in store. not any thomas fisher cloth. when i get a chance, i'll take a fit shot.

beau, here u go

user posted image


Added on July 18, 2010, 2:32 am

got nanoscope ah?  blink.gif
*
Thanks-I agree with kotmj that Granoff's efforts appear to be the best although ALT's isn't too bad either.
lanatir
post Jul 18 2010, 11:57 AM

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well imho, since Jerrick at Bespoked has done my clothes for about a decade or so, he knows my fit and requires the least coaching. but as mentioned, they are pricey and the detailing requires additional modular pricing.

ALT is great for people who know what they want and can take the extra effort to obtain materials themselves to bring it to him. I would not hesitate to commission him to do more clothes.

I really like Granoff's attention to detail and their inhouse choice of materials is the most varied. but they are the priciest. furthermore, i like their fit the least (on the only product i have from them) probably because their clientele consists of politicians and datuks/tan sris.


bloke1
post Jul 18 2010, 12:15 PM

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We should contribute fit pictures. I promise I won't crop anyone's crotch as avatar again.
bloke1
post Jul 18 2010, 12:41 PM

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He should be proud for using such a great avatar.

This post has been edited by bloke1: Jul 18 2010, 12:42 PM
kotmj
post Jul 18 2010, 12:41 PM

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The sweet face in my avatar is Cheenoo's.
U+FFFD
post Jul 18 2010, 12:53 PM


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QUOTE(kotmj @ Jul 18 2010, 12:41 PM)
The sweet face in my avatar is Cheenoo's.
*
hmm.gif That gingham shirt...
Cheenoo
post Jul 18 2010, 03:26 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Jul 18 2010, 12:41 PM)
The sweet face in my avatar is Cheenoo's.
*
I was that easy to find huh.
But would u pls remove it from ur avatar because:-
1. I might get multiple stab wounds when I go out by people thinking I'm you.
2. It's scary being stalked by an uncle
3. I'm a shy guy.

QUOTE(FusioneX @ Jul 18 2010, 12:53 PM)
hmm.gif  That gingham shirt...
*
is a casual short sleeve.
kotmj
post Jul 18 2010, 05:29 PM

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pls follow procedures. fill out the form to have your pic removed and your application will be processed (with russian efficiency).
kotmj
post Jul 18 2010, 05:41 PM

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Is Andrew cute or is he hot or is he a loser?
kotmj
post Jul 18 2010, 05:59 PM

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---

This post has been edited by kotmj: Jul 18 2010, 07:16 PM
bloke1
post Jul 18 2010, 06:26 PM

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Ouch
kotmj
post Jul 18 2010, 06:37 PM

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QUOTE(bloke1 @ Jul 18 2010, 06:26 PM)
Ouch
*
Dun worry you look just fine.
bloke1
post Jul 18 2010, 08:05 PM

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It's not funny. sad.gif
bloke1
post Jul 18 2010, 11:25 PM

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No. I think I'll just use a spritzer bottle.
kotmj
post Jul 18 2010, 11:57 PM

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user posted image
kotmj
post Jul 19 2010, 12:15 AM

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user posted image
Cheenoo
post Jul 19 2010, 06:54 AM

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QUOTE(FusioneX @ Jul 18 2010, 06:09 PM)
[attachmentid=1681869]

I have no idea how you can easily unearth their pictures but I really salute you for the time and effort.

Now, any nice fit pictures of Loke-chai in his Facebook?
*
You should not encourage the stalker in him!

This is the true gentleman's water bottle.
user posted image
kotmj
post Jul 20 2010, 11:07 PM

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I'm on the brink of buying a trouser length of light grey flannel and a suiting length of mid-weight navy worsted.
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post Jul 21 2010, 03:02 AM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Jul 20 2010, 11:07 PM)
I'm on the brink of buying a trouser length of light grey flannel and a suiting length of mid-weight navy worsted.
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What weights are they in ? Any other details you can provide?

Sounds like a very versatile purchase which will allow you to mix & match outfits.

I personally prefer 10 to 12 oz fabrics -Depending on how they are constructed, they tend to be more crease resistant and is able to withstand greater abuse .
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post Jul 21 2010, 03:11 AM

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QUOTE(beau @ Jul 21 2010, 03:02 AM)
What weights are they in ? Any other details you can provide?

Sounds like a very versatile purchase which will allow you to mix & match outfits.

I personally prefer 10 to 12 oz fabrics -Depending on how they are constructed, they tend to be more crease resistant and is able to withstand greater abuse .
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OT : It's strange to see peopel discussing trouser materials at 3am in the morning tongue.gif
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post Jul 21 2010, 09:32 AM

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QUOTE(MeToo @ Jul 21 2010, 03:11 AM)
OT : It's strange to see peopel discussing trouser materials at 3am in the morning tongue.gif
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It's limited to persons of good taste who have to engage in teleconferences with the US in the middle of our night!!

It's encouraging to see a community of individuals here trying to elevate & encourage the bespoke arts instead of depending on the West for their tailoring needs. Or fall prey to the mass market appeal of designer suits.
kotmj
post Jul 21 2010, 11:06 AM

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QUOTE(beau @ Jul 21 2010, 03:02 AM)
What weights are they in ? Any other details you can provide?

Sounds like a very versatile purchase which will allow you to mix & match outfits.

I personally prefer 10 to 12 oz fabrics -Depending on how they are constructed, they tend to be more crease resistant and is able to withstand greater abuse .
*
I halted myself last night and have asked the seller to provide more details on two of his cloths before I pull the trigger.

A few months ago I would have provided the links to the cloths, but if I were to do so 2 things will happen:

1. Both would have been bought before I myself have the opportunity to.
2. Next week when I drop by AL's, both lengths would be there, waiting to be made up into DBs with swappable buttons.

I'm looking for a heavier cloth. I used to feel perfectly fine in merely a twill shirt and jeans at 20 degrees Celcius, but now that I'm acclimatized to the Malaysian climate I shiver at 24 degrees.
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post Jul 21 2010, 11:14 AM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Jul 21 2010, 11:06 AM)
I halted myself last night and have asked the seller to provide more details on two of his cloths before I pull the trigger.

A few months ago I would have provided the links to the cloths, but if I were to do so 2 things will happen:

1. Both would have been bought before I myself have the opportunity to.
2. Next week when I drop by AL's, both lengths would be there, waiting to be made up into DBs with swappable buttons.

I'm looking for a heavier cloth. I used to feel perfectly fine in merely a twill shirt and jeans at 20 degrees Celcius, but now that I'm acclimatized to the Malaysian climate I shiver at 24 degrees.
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Wise move. Hwa Seng (HST) has a good selection of heavier cloths but you can obtain a better price if you come to the shop ( in Singapore ) in person & negotiate . The website prices are a tad high. The other option is to wear long johns with your existing suits. Uniglo does these ultra thin versions which seem to keep the body warm but not uncomfortable in centrally heated rooms. I bought a pair which I used earlier this year in Northern China & found it effecttive.
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post Jul 21 2010, 12:05 PM

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Been stalking this thread for a bit & finally got off my lazy ass to register and say hi to my comrades across the causeway. You guys have got a pretty good discussion going on, compared to my local folk bickering on a certain h w z forum about which polyester suit is cheaper & better..

Beau - were you at Iris tailor in SG last week? Some of the points you raised sound awfully familiar - esp the part about the HK tailors & WISC shirtings.
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post Jul 21 2010, 12:14 PM


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QUOTE(gshen @ Jul 21 2010, 12:05 PM)
Been stalking this thread for a bit & finally got off my lazy ass to register and say hi to my comrades across the causeway. You guys have got a pretty good discussion going on, compared to my local folk bickering on a certain h w z forum about which polyester suit is cheaper & better..

Beau - were you at Iris tailor in SG last week? Some of the points you raised sound awfully familiar - esp the part about the HK tailors & WISC shirtings.
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Holy sweet sartorial jesus! I never thought I would see gshen from SF on Lowyat.net.
Your knowledge of Singaporean bespoke would really help most of the forumers in here.

Anyway, a warm welcome to you, gshen! smile.gif
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post Jul 21 2010, 12:24 PM

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QUOTE(FusioneX @ Jul 21 2010, 12:14 PM)
Holy sweet sartorial jesus! I never thought I would see gshen from SF on Lowyat.net.
Your knowledge of Singaporean bespoke would really help most of the forumers in here.

Anyway, a warm welcome to you, gshen!  smile.gif
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Gee, thank you! Warm welcome indeed.

I'm just another small timer sharing my thoughts and experiences that will hopefully help others out. smile.gif


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post Jul 21 2010, 12:36 PM


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QUOTE(gshen @ Jul 21 2010, 12:24 PM)
Gee, thank you! Warm welcome indeed.

I'm just another small timer sharing my thoughts and experiences that will hopefully help others out.  smile.gif
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Now you are being awfully humble, gshen. It is small timers like me who look up to people like you. nod.gif

If I remember correctly, kotmj even showed some of your pictures to his tailor, Ah Loke as reference material.
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post Jul 21 2010, 01:06 PM

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QUOTE(FusioneX @ Jul 21 2010, 12:36 PM)
Now you are being awfully humble, gshen. It is small timers like me who look up to people like you. nod.gif

If I remember correctly, kotmj even showed some of your pictures to his tailor, Ah Loke as reference material.
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Yup, vaguely remember seeing that post somewhere here. It was actually kotmj who led me to this forum quite a while ago too.

That said, I have a 6x2 DB suit in the works, using the very last bits of Minnis' Rangoon in mid-gray. Sweet cloth & a real pity that it's been discontinued.. Hope to have some pics to show in the next couple of weeks!
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post Jul 21 2010, 02:14 PM

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post Jul 21 2010, 02:22 PM

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Oh MAI gawd. It's indeed gshen. The real God has cometh. Move over GodStalkermj! wub.gif


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post Jul 21 2010, 02:43 PM

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QUOTE(gshen @ Jul 21 2010, 12:05 PM)
Been stalking this thread for a bit & finally got off my lazy ass to register and say hi to my comrades across the causeway. You guys have got a pretty good discussion going on, compared to my local folk bickering on a certain h w z forum about which polyester suit is cheaper & better..

Beau - were you at Iris tailor in SG last week? Some of the points you raised sound awfully familiar - esp the part about the HK tailors & WISC shirtings.
*
Iris Tailor sounds like a place my friend recommended. It could be him you ran into. I believe he came across some of his old RTW suits when he was clearing his HK property for rent . I was not in Singapore last week.

We were colleagues in London , he subsequently relocated to Singapore while I was posted to HK before returning to Malaysia.

We were recommended to AMHC by another colleague ( who have since switch allegiance to WW Chan ) The same colleague came across a bale of vintage sea island which was sold as part of a liquidation exercise of a European firm. It was sold at a very ridiculously low price & some of us have fond memories of the wonderful shirts that were created as a result of that purchase.

Iris Tailor comes highly recommended by him as it's given some of his old suits a new life. I am waiting for him to commission something ( I think he was planning to make a hacking jacket in Harris Tweed & a Linen Jacket ) before I pay them a visit.

It helps that Nani, the fitter furnished him with some culinary recommendations from Indonesia in time for the World Cup which appealed to his inner gluttony. If you do happen to run into him, tell him to bring more of the Indonesian Cashews & Prawn Crackers when he comes up to Malaysia otherwise we won't let him cross the border!!
kotmj
post Jul 21 2010, 09:49 PM

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This is #5, a plain weave
user posted image

and this is #29, a twill
user posted image


Hi Karl, I am trying to decide between this #5 and the #29.

1) What weights are the cloths?
2) What ply are they? 2x2 or 1x1?
3) Which do you think will be the longer-lasting cloth?

Thanks for taking the time.

Cheers,
kotmj


Hi kotmj,

Both cloths are 2 ply 11/12oz and my opinion cloth #29 would be harder wearing but cloth #5 is the better cloth... I bought a full piece very cheap, this cloth sould be £55-59 a suit length

Thanks, Karl


Added on July 21, 2010, 10:38 pmAnd this is the flannel from another seller

user posted image

This post has been edited by kotmj: Jul 21 2010, 10:38 PM
beau
post Jul 21 2010, 11:19 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Jul 21 2010, 09:49 PM)
This is #5, a plain weave
user posted image

and this is #29, a twill
user posted image
Hi Karl, I am trying to decide between this #5 and the #29.

1) What weights are the cloths?
2) What ply are they? 2x2 or 1x1?
3) Which do you think will be the longer-lasting cloth?

Thanks for taking the time.

Cheers,
kotmj
Hi kotmj,

Both cloths are 2 ply 11/12oz and my opinion cloth #29 would be harder wearing but cloth #5 is the better cloth... I bought a full piece very cheap, this cloth sould be £55-59 a suit length

Thanks, Karl


Added on July 21, 2010, 10:38 pmAnd this is the flannel from another seller

user posted image
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Nice stuff-Cloth #29 would be my preferred choice followed by #5

The flannel looks a bit light colored in the photograph. Looking forward to seeing the end results from ALT ( assuming your purchase goes through )


Added on July 21, 2010, 11:21 pm
QUOTE(kotmj @ Jul 21 2010, 09:49 PM)
This is #5, a plain weave
user posted image

and this is #29, a twill
user posted image
Hi Karl, I am trying to decide between this #5 and the #29.

1) What weights are the cloths?
2) What ply are they? 2x2 or 1x1?
3) Which do you think will be the longer-lasting cloth?

Thanks for taking the time.

Cheers,
kotmj
Hi kotmj,

Both cloths are 2 ply 11/12oz and my opinion cloth #29 would be harder wearing but cloth #5 is the better cloth... I bought a full piece very cheap, this cloth sould be £55-59 a suit length

Thanks, Karl


Added on July 21, 2010, 10:38 pmAnd this is the flannel from another seller

user posted image
*
p.s. Better give ALT the heads up and warn him that another pedantic SOB of a customer will be heading his way to make usual & challenging demands on him


This post has been edited by beau: Jul 21 2010, 11:21 PM
kotmj
post Jul 21 2010, 11:53 PM

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Beau, the best pair of traditionally-cut trousers (full, high-waisted, and with an unbroken line) I have was made for me by a grandma in a very small town above a wet market. They really should only be worn with a jacket because the thing by itself is so big and so archaic people stare at them. But they so comfortable. Perfect for 13-hour flights.

AL, OTOH, likes to cut slim trousers with a high fork. He is right in thinking they are elongating -- but they are unwearable for those of us who squat in the gym and who sit for 10+ hours a day. Too narrow, especially in the thighs, tight in the seat and the fork cuts into the family jewels. He is incredibly reluctant to make the fork lower. These are great trousers to be worn with just a shirt and standing. They look like those worn by RL models in GQ.

But maybe you will be more successful in steering him towards the right cut.
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post Jul 22 2010, 12:25 AM

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QUOTE(bloke1 @ Jul 21 2010, 02:22 PM)
Oh MAI gawd. It's indeed gshen. The real God has cometh. Move over GodStalkermj! wub.gif
*
God does not wear Allen Edmonds as I unfortunately do blush.gif


QUOTE(beau @ Jul 21 2010, 02:43 PM)
Iris Tailor sounds like a place my friend recommended. It could be him you ran into. I believe he came across some of his old RTW  suits when he was clearing his HK property for rent . I was not in Singapore last week.

We were colleagues in London , he subsequently relocated to Singapore while I was posted to HK before returning to Malaysia.

We were recommended to AMHC by another colleague ( who have since switch allegiance to WW Chan ) The same colleague came across a bale of vintage sea island which was sold as part of a liquidation exercise of a European firm. It was sold at a very ridiculously low price & some of us have fond memories of the wonderful shirts that were created as a result of that purchase.

Iris Tailor comes highly recommended by him as it's given some of his old suits a new life. I am waiting for him to commission something ( I think he was planning to make a hacking jacket in Harris Tweed & a Linen Jacket ) before I pay them a visit.

It helps that Nani, the fitter furnished him with some culinary recommendations from Indonesia in time for the World Cup which appealed to his inner gluttony. If you do happen to run into him, tell him to bring more of the Indonesian Cashews & Prawn Crackers when he comes up to Malaysia otherwise we won't let him cross the border!!
*
Yup, I can confirm we are talking about the same gent from your mention of the prawn crackers! AFAIK he has not commissioned anything other than shirts at Iris tailor, which is not their forte anyway. It's no secret that Singaporean tailors all outsource their work to factories..unless you get the rare tailor that shanks your buttons or hand stitches buttonholes (both exceedingly rare), the higher end tailors are all pretty much the same. That said, their shirts are made by one of the better factories that does a pretty good job with single needle stitching & high density stitches. Cloth selection isn't too bad either.

If your friend is used to the tailors in HK, I think Iris tailor's suits will give him a pleasant surprise if he has time to invest in a couple of fitting sessions. I've seen a few Chan suits and I'm convinced Iris tailor's stuff measures up pretty well against them. Speaking from my personal experience rather than others' of course smile.gif


beau
post Jul 22 2010, 06:12 AM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Jul 21 2010, 11:53 PM)
Beau, the best pair of traditionally-cut trousers (full, high-waisted, and with an unbroken line) I have was made for me by a grandma in a very small town above a wet market. They really should only be worn with a jacket because the thing by itself is so big and so archaic people stare at them. But they so comfortable. Perfect for 13-hour flights.

AL, OTOH, likes to cut slim trousers with a high fork. He is right in thinking they are elongating -- but they are unwearable for those of us who squat in the gym and who sit for 10+ hours a day. Too narrow, especially in the thighs, tight in the seat and the fork cuts into the family jewels. He is incredibly reluctant to make the fork lower. These are great trousers to be worn with just a shirt and standing. They look like those worn by RL models in GQ.

But maybe you will be more successful in steering him towards the right cut.
*
It's that or I shall speak in a high falsetto!! It sounds like I should bring a sample and let him adjust accordingly.

High waisted pants like the one you mention are comfortable but ideally need to be worn with braces to enable them to fall properly.

It's loose fitting clothes or a track suit for me where long haul flights are concerned.


Added on July 22, 2010, 6:39 am
QUOTE(gshen @ Jul 22 2010, 12:25 AM)
God does not wear Allen Edmonds as I unfortunately do  blush.gif
Yup, I can confirm we are talking about the same gent from your mention of the prawn crackers! AFAIK he has not commissioned anything other than shirts at Iris tailor, which is not their forte anyway. It's no secret that Singaporean tailors all outsource their work to factories..unless you get the rare tailor that shanks your buttons or hand stitches buttonholes (both exceedingly rare), the higher end tailors are all pretty much the same.  That said, their shirts are made by one of the better factories that does a pretty good job with single needle stitching & high density stitches. Cloth selection isn't too bad either.

If your friend is used to the tailors in HK, I think Iris tailor's suits will give him a pleasant surprise if he has time to invest in a couple of fitting sessions. I've seen a few Chan suits and I'm convinced Iris tailor's stuff measures up pretty well against them. Speaking from my personal experience rather than others' of course  smile.gif
*
Sounds like you've met my friend.

He had your mutual tailor copy the fittings for an Ascot Chang shirt ( our favorite in terms of fit thus far ). The efforts I have seen are passable with the exception of the following:-

1. The front placket patterns on one of the shirts do not seem to be properly spaced out. The patterns should look as if they come from a single piece of cloth ( see Hilditch & Key & Charvet shirts as examples ) . The strange thing is , the versions he commission without the placket seems fine.

2. One of the earlier versions had a "V" split yoke as opposed to the traditional inverted "V" from Jermyn Street shirt makers.

3. The cuffs of the barrel cuff version which was supposedly based on the T & A ( Turnbull & Asser ) shirt he left as a sample does not have the gathered sleeve feature at the cuff typical of T & A shirts.

The efforts seem better that CYC shirts which lays claims to be the best shirt maker in Singapore.

He had some minor grouse of not having the shirt labels placed at the back of the neck as opposed to having it on shirt tails ( we are both victims of poor hotel laundry in Third World locations -shirts have been returned with frayed labels which results in irritation to the skin & cannot be easily removed without the aid of a thread picker )

I'll wait for his first bespoke commission before passing judgement. Your mutual tailor has done a good job in altering his RTW suits -he turned to the dark world of RTW after failing in his efforts in finding a satisfactory tailor in HK.

ps The Prawn Crackers were a god send during the recent world cup!!

This post has been edited by beau: Jul 22 2010, 06:39 AM
kotmj
post Jul 22 2010, 09:05 AM

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The first time a politician is sighted in something non-navy/charcoal: Georgia's President Michail Saakaschwili in royal blue.

user posted image


gshen
post Jul 22 2010, 10:30 AM

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QUOTE(beau @ Jul 22 2010, 06:12 AM)
Sounds like you've met my friend.

...
Yup, I did mention that their shirts aren't the best. Much better deals to be found in HK.. CYC as the top shirtmaker?? Probably from people who don't know better and believe that dear L K Y's shirtmaker must be the best.. Pure rubbish laugh.gif My first custom shirt was done with them when I knew much, much less.. but still the fit was extremely poor & sleeves made at least 1" too short. Double needle (chain)stitched too. Would've rejected the shirt completely had I known better!

I've inspected H&K, N&L as well as T&A shirts and frankly speaking - no big deal. I admit their attention to detail is good, but with some serious guidance to my current shirtmaker, I can achieve ~95% of the quality at about 10% of the price after a couple of semi-acceptable 'experiments'. Non-fused (self-lined) collars, OCD pattern-matching, shanked buttons etc. inclusive! thumbup.gif
kotmj
post Jul 22 2010, 07:31 PM

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QUOTE(gshen @ Jul 22 2010, 12:25 AM)
God does not wear Allen Edmonds as I unfortunately do  blush.gif
God wears Church's; the Devil wears Prada.
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post Jul 22 2010, 09:09 PM

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The I-peasant wears Bonia.
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post Jul 22 2010, 09:31 PM

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Yup, how many pairs do you have?
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post Jul 22 2010, 09:42 PM

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I once had two pairs. Got rid of my first pair few years ago. Now I'm wearing a pair of pointy blucher by their sister brand, Sembonia. Full pigskin leather insole. Very comfortable.
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post Jul 22 2010, 10:05 PM

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You should buy this pair the Singaporean is selling. I wanted to myself once, but backed out of the auction. If only they fit me.

user posted image
user posted image
user posted image
user posted image
user posted image


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post Jul 22 2010, 11:22 PM

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Some people passionately hate longwings..
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post Jul 22 2010, 11:24 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Jul 22 2010, 10:05 PM)
You should buy this pair the Singaporean is selling. I wanted to myself once, but backed out of the auction. If only they fit me.
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post Jul 22 2010, 11:30 PM

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QUOTE(gshen @ Jul 22 2010, 10:30 AM)
Yup, I did mention that their shirts aren't the best. Much better deals to be found in HK.. CYC as the top shirtmaker?? Probably from people who don't know better and believe that dear L K Y's shirtmaker must be the best.. Pure rubbish  laugh.gif My first custom shirt was done with them when I knew much, much less.. but still the fit was extremely poor & sleeves made at least 1" too short. Double needle (chain)stitched too. Would've rejected the shirt completely had I known better!

I've inspected H&K, N&L as well as T&A shirts and frankly speaking - no big deal. I admit their attention to detail is good, but with some serious guidance to my current shirtmaker, I can achieve ~95% of the quality at about 10% of the price after a couple of semi-acceptable 'experiments'.  Non-fused (self-lined) collars, OCD pattern-matching, shanked buttons etc. inclusive!  thumbup.gif
*
Who is your current shirt maker?

I've used Ascot Chang & Davids in HK. Of the two , AC has the best fit & finish. David's isn't too shabby either . Jantzen is another name I hear about , opinions are highly polarized about their ability ( or lack of, depending on your experience with them )

Have you looked at Charvet? Beautiful shirts but they induce a sharp intake of breath when it come to pay for them.
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post Jul 23 2010, 12:43 AM

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QUOTE(beau @ Jul 22 2010, 11:30 PM)
Who is your current shirt maker?

I've used Ascot Chang & Davids in HK. Of the two , AC has the best fit & finish. David's isn't too shabby either . Jantzen is another name I hear about , opinions are highly polarized about their ability ( or lack of, depending on your experience with them )

Have you looked at Charvet? Beautiful shirts but they induce a sharp intake of breath when it come to pay for them.
*
I am hesitant to reveal the maker for various reasons, but I have some pictures to show if you scroll further.

Have not seen AC's stuff, but I hear good things about them. I've had quite a few Jantzen shirts - fabric quality is hit & miss as they are mostly unbranded stuff probably from China. Customer service is shite though, and they are good at missing/changing details on your shirts. Can't expect much from guys doing such large internet volume.. Try Lee Baron in HK if you visit again. He has ex-AC cutters working for him and does very nice non-fused collars.

I don't ever intend to pay so much for a shirt, so Charvet is obviously out of the question..

Pics as promised - one of my earlier experiments, fabric by Acorn:
user posted image
user posted image
user posted image
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BonVivant
post Jul 23 2010, 04:10 AM

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Hello

I've already introduced myself in the men's shoes thread. On that thread, I talked a little about suits and shirts in the UK, where I live and that has generated some interest. As I'm still a student, I'm yet to purchase any MTM or bespoke suits there. However, I am quite pleased with the RTW range there. Clearly, they are nowhere as good as MTM or bespoke ones but at the price I am paying, I have no complaints. Here are a few pictures of one of my Charles Tyrwhitt suits. It's a navy twill, 3 piece suit. Surprisingly, it's half-canvassed with horse and goat hair and has working albeit machine stitched cuffs.

In case anyone wants to know, the tie is from Eton, shirt from T.M. Lewin and pocket square from Hilditch & Key. The suit has been heavily altered to fit. Also, i couldn't get a back and side profile! I was getting irritated with my camera timer and prancing around in a 3-piece wool suit in summer is far from fun.

user posted image

Barely passable button holes.....

user posted image

It's not made in London tongue.gif Fabric is milled in Yorkshire and the suit itself is made in Tunisia.
user posted image

Please be kind to my ego.
kotmj
post Jul 23 2010, 09:53 AM

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Can't really comment of the fit of the jacket, but it looks like it fits well enough. You've made all the right choices: navy cloth, light blue shirt, PS, etc. Very SF-conform. One thing which is obviously off is the trousers. The next time you're back in Malaysia on holiday, bring them along and have them altered to fit you better in the seat.
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post Jul 23 2010, 10:11 AM

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QUOTE(gshen @ Jul 23 2010, 12:43 AM)
I am hesitant to reveal the maker for various reasons, but I have some pictures to show if you scroll further.

Have not seen AC's stuff, but I hear good things about them. I've had quite a few Jantzen shirts - fabric quality is hit & miss as they are mostly unbranded stuff probably from China. Customer service is shite though, and they are good at missing/changing details on your shirts. Can't expect much from guys doing such large internet volume.. Try Lee Baron in HK if you visit again. He has ex-AC cutters working for him and does very nice non-fused collars.

I don't ever intend to pay so much for a shirt, so Charvet is obviously out of the question..

Pics as promised - one of my earlier experiments, fabric by Acorn:
user posted image
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user posted image
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Great finish-How is the fit? I'll post some AC's when it is convenient to do so.

1. Apart from your secret source are there other shirt makers you would recommend in Singapore?
2. What are the places you go for fabrics/trims,linings etc in Singapore? I've tried Hwa Seng in Katong but their prices are a tad high. The ones on Arab Street don't seem interesting.

Thanks for your HK recommendation. Will pay them a visit on my next trip there. Most HK shirt makers are similar to Jantzen -inconsistent quality.
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post Jul 23 2010, 11:59 AM

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Thanks - small adjustments to be made to fit due to shrinkage, but overall I am very pleased. I am going to prewash all my lengths of cloth before sending them to the tailor in future.

1. Unfortunately the scene here for shirtmaking is not great. kotmj's pics of AL's shirts seem very decent - and a local option is always favorable. Maybe because they know you will forever be on their ass if they screwup!

2. I've given up on that - Richard James Weldon serves all my needs and shipping is cheap as chips for small quantities. I have probably a lifetime supply of 3.5mm MOP shirt buttons that I am selling, so that's one less worry as well!




kotmj
post Jul 23 2010, 12:49 PM

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QUOTE(gshen @ Jul 23 2010, 11:59 AM)
Thanks - small adjustments to be made to fit due to shrinkage, but overall I am very pleased. I am going to prewash all my lengths of cloth before sending them to the tailor in future.

1. Unfortunately the scene here for shirtmaking is not great. kotmj's pics of AL's  shirts seem very decent - and a local option is always favorable. Maybe because they know you will forever be on their ass if they screwup!

2. I've given up on that - Richard James Weldon serves all my needs and shipping is cheap as chips for small quantities. I have probably a lifetime supply of 3.5mm MOP shirt buttons that I am selling, so that's one less worry as well!
*
Gshen, do you know where I can source sew-in collar interfacing for collars and cuffs? I bought some from Minerva Fabrics in eBay, but I believe they do not understand the product -- the canvas has horsehair in it, and I think it is for suit collars, not shirts.
beau
post Jul 23 2010, 12:53 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Jul 23 2010, 12:49 PM)
Gshen, do you know where I can source sew-in collar interfacing for collars and cuffs? I bought some from Minerva Fabrics in eBay, but I believe they do not understand the product -- the canvas has horsehair in it, and I think it is for suit collars, not shirts.
*
Hwa Seng has cotton interlining for collars-have a look at their website
gshen
post Jul 23 2010, 12:53 PM

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http://hst.com.sg/acatalog/Soft_Finished_N...nterlining.html - not cheap, but there you go.

Anyways, you can try self-lining (using the shirting material) your collars/cuffs with an additional layer or two, depending on the fabric weight. No extra cost involved and works just as well for me.

Swiss interlining tends to be a bit harder/stiffer if that is what you prefer. I like the softness and fluidity of my self-lined collars, so i'm sticking with that.
beau
post Jul 23 2010, 12:58 PM

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QUOTE(gshen @ Jul 23 2010, 11:59 AM)
Thanks - small adjustments to be made to fit due to shrinkage, but overall I am very pleased. I am going to prewash all my lengths of cloth before sending them to the tailor in future.

1. Unfortunately the scene here for shirtmaking is not great. kotmj's pics of AL's  shirts seem very decent - and a local option is always favorable. Maybe because they know you will forever be on their ass if they screwup!

2. I've given up on that - Richard James Weldon serves all my needs and shipping is cheap as chips for small quantities. I have probably a lifetime supply of 3.5mm MOP shirt buttons that I am selling, so that's one less worry as well!
*
I received mix feedback on Lee Baron. The consistent tone was the need to pre-wash the fabrics too. They seem to be a notch above Jantzen but seem to be inconsistent in terms of quality.

The button threads on your shirt look similar to the ones I've seen in Italy. I hope you will share the source with us one day.
gshen
post Jul 23 2010, 01:05 PM

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I dont know - I was introduced by an old customer of Lee Baron's and he mentioned that there are various sifu's doing the work for him. Maybe it was because of the introduction that I got the ex-AC guy? Not too sure about others, but all my 10 or so shirts from him are consistent in quality.

My MOP buttons are available for sale here - http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=174715

And I use cotton glace thread for my shirts, super strong and probably will never need replacement in my lifetime. I bought the wrong size (#16 is a bit too thick) unfortunately, but this is the right one - http://www.wardrobesupplies.com/store/m2_thread_hymark.html

beau
post Jul 23 2010, 01:07 PM

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QUOTE(gshen @ Jul 23 2010, 11:59 AM)
Thanks - small adjustments to be made to fit due to shrinkage, but overall I am very pleased. I am going to prewash all my lengths of cloth before sending them to the tailor in future.

1. Unfortunately the scene here for shirtmaking is not great. kotmj's pics of AL's  shirts seem very decent - and a local option is always favorable. Maybe because they know you will forever be on their ass if they screwup!

2. I've given up on that - Richard James Weldon serves all my needs and shipping is cheap as chips for small quantities. I have probably a lifetime supply of 3.5mm MOP shirt buttons that I am selling, so that's one less worry as well!
*
BTW, the London bespoke shirt makers always insist that you wear & wash your initial test shirt for at least 3 months before returning with the same shirt for the second fitting before they make the balance of the initial order. Have a chat with my Singapore based friend when you next see him:-he's made shirts in London, HK, France, Italy & the US and can share his war stories.


silencer
post Jul 23 2010, 01:39 PM

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ouch..its become so technical now... rclxub.gif
kotmj
post Jul 23 2010, 02:18 PM

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I bought some Gueterman button thread with what was supposed to be collar canvas (but which really is hymo). They arrived this morning, and I inspected the goods at home just now and found the button thread to be excellent. I bought white, light blue and light pink. AL initially refused to hand-sew buttons for me because they are very labour-intensive, but when he found out I removed his buttons at home and sewed on MOPs by myself (poor me) he started doing them for me by hand.

I do not want to deal with HST. I am unimpressed with their business practices and their exaggerated pricing. Gshen and others, would you happen to know of yet another source for Swiss cotton interlining?

Here's a link to the thread I bought:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...e=STRK:MEWNX:IT

This post has been edited by kotmj: Jul 23 2010, 02:23 PM
gshen
post Jul 23 2010, 02:40 PM

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I am using this in white - http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/1-GLACE-THREAD-HY-MA...=item4cebbe9a8a

The glace finish and 4ply makes the thread extremely durable. Try this stuff when you are done with your small spools. It's available in #24 and #16, but I have no idea which is the thinner one.. mine at 16 is already about 4x the thickness of your typical polyester threads.

Why do you say that about HST? Like most businesses, they sell their stuff to retail at a higher price than to the trade.. Their stuff is a bit more expensive than most, but I guess that's to do with their small volume and expensive freight costs since we are miles and miles away from manufacturers.

Maybe you can try these guys: http://www.steinlaufandstoller.com/Interfa...Non%20Woven.htm
kotmj
post Jul 23 2010, 02:50 PM

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Gshen, I bought 2 sets of buttons and paid RM30+ for postage. When the envelope arrived, it had a stamp value of about RM3. I asked them about the discrepancy, and they said "Oh, that's because our website assumes that the weight is 1kg at least." They offered no refund of the extra postage I paid.

On one set of buttons, the cuff buttons were one grade darker than larger ones. That's because they sell more cuff buttons than the large ones, and hence ran out of the lighter shade. They did not ask me beforehand if that was OK.


Added on July 23, 2010, 2:51 pmAlso, everything is more expensive at HST. They are the highest-cost provider.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Jul 23 2010, 02:51 PM
gshen
post Jul 23 2010, 02:55 PM

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Ouch - understandable why you are not too happy with them I guess. If you are desperate to get hold of something from them in future, let me know and I'll try to help without ripping you off on postage.

Try Richard James Weldon in future. Their buttons are the nicest I've seen and cost a lot less than HST's. They supply Savile Row with trimmings, so they should probably be good enough for you. Shipping is also only about 2 GBP even when I ordered nearly 100 buttons in total.
kotmj
post Jul 23 2010, 04:37 PM

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Thanks gshen, I'l keep your offer in mind.

What were you doing ordering 100 buttons from RJW?! All for your own consumption? I didn't know their postage was that cheap.

About pre-laundering your shirting lengths, kabbaz says the problem is with the ironing later. It's apparently difficult to keep the stripes straight.

After my last pair of bespoke trousers shrunk considerably after the first dry clean, I plan to have to have even my suiting lengths dry cleaned prior to being tailored. At exactly the same dry cleaners who caused my trousers to shrink.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Jul 23 2010, 04:37 PM
gshen
post Jul 23 2010, 06:00 PM

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LOL - well yeah basically for my own consumption.. and for a coat my GF commissioned.

Hmm.. I think you will only notice if you are super OCD and scrutinize every inch of your shirt. I just washed a few lengths of striped seersucker and did not notice such an occurrence.

I would change a dry cleaner rather than pre-dryclean your suitings as that is obviously not supposed to happen! Dry clean as little as possible because the harsh chemicals used negatively affect the hand and performance of the natural fibres/oils in your suitings.
silencer
post Jul 23 2010, 07:39 PM

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QUOTE(gshen @ Jul 23 2010, 02:55 PM)
Ouch - understandable why you are not too happy with them I guess. If you are desperate to get hold of something from them in future, let me know and I'll try to help without ripping you off on postage.

Try Richard James Weldon in future. Their buttons are the nicest I've seen and cost a lot less than HST's. They supply Savile Row with trimmings, so they should probably be good enough for you. Shipping is also only about 2 GBP even when I ordered nearly 100 buttons in total.
*
oooppps....they charged me abt 6 pound just for 27 horn buttons!!! vmad.gif
lanseyouyu7688
post Jul 23 2010, 08:00 PM

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It seems very interesting. BUMP,BUMP,BUMP.
gshen
post Jul 23 2010, 08:39 PM

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Just checked the invoice to be sure - my bad! More like 60 buttons, but still shipping was just GBP1.65...
kotmj
post Jul 23 2010, 08:55 PM

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The problem with the Tan Sri is he always uses his title.
silencer
post Jul 23 2010, 09:20 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Jul 23 2010, 08:55 PM)
The problem with the Tan Sri is he always uses his title.
*
That title was first quoted by King kotmj..... and I had no idea where it came from....

Hei...i was even clearly indicated that I only require the cheapest postage in my purchase inquiry e-mail...

Trust me, for postage to Malaysia, it's a default charge of Pound 6.04 for anything lower than:
WGT 100 GRMS
SENT INTERNATIONAL SIGNED FOR
AIRMAIL

doh.gif

This post has been edited by silencer: Jul 23 2010, 09:22 PM
kotmj
post Jul 23 2010, 09:26 PM

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Are the buttons any good?


Added on July 23, 2010, 9:28 pmWhy didn't you go for the local source I mentioned to you?

This post has been edited by kotmj: Jul 23 2010, 09:28 PM
silencer
post Jul 23 2010, 09:31 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Jul 23 2010, 09:26 PM)
Are the buttons any good?
*
I made the purchase after reading a good review of RichardJamesWeldon by gshen...which is today.... biggrin.gif

will make the comparison with the ones from lining online company, once i receive it....


Added on July 23, 2010, 9:36 pm
QUOTE(kotmj @ Jul 23 2010, 09:26 PM)

Added on July 23, 2010, 9:28 pmWhy didn't you go for the local source I mentioned to you?
*
only brown color available at the local source....as next month...i might commission 2 more suits and a sport jacket .... and I'm sticking with the bemberg cupro lining instead of ermazine.....

This post has been edited by silencer: Jul 23 2010, 09:36 PM

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