Let me be the first to piss here...piss...this is my territory now.

Someone should go buy this.

http://cgi.ebay.com/KID-MOHAIR-WOOL-SUITIN...=item519212d3f2

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Added on April 21, 2010, 11:13 pmThat navy DB is a seriously beautiful garment. Very sculptural. Definitely not Malaysian. He just doesn't wear it that well.

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/a/a9/NJBB.JPG

This post has been edited by kotmj: Apr 21 2010, 11:15 PM

You work as an undertaker?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Court_dress

Black seems to be an option, but if an advocate it has to be paired with grey striped trousers. Otherwise a "dark" suit, which means charcoal I suppose. Not quite black, but nearly.

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Added on April 21, 2010, 11:59 pmSeems to be three options

1. black jacket + grey striped trousers
2. dark 3-piece sb
3. dark 2-piece db

This post has been edited by kotmj: Apr 21 2010, 11:59 PM

depends on your perception of comfort. for me, comfort in the malaysian context means something cool. but both silencer and walnek think of comfort as pliancy and softness. you will not find any of the two in kid mohair. but you will get coolness, especially with the right lining.

for softness and a luxurious feel, go for a high super number.

yeah, 3.2m ought to be enough for your height. the best lining would be ermazine.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Apr 22 2010, 08:23 AM

This bulk order thing can be quite simple:

You give the article number and full description and quantity. Organiser collects all the orders, and then finds items and puts them in his shopping cart. He then proceeds to checkout without actually checking out, so he may see the quoted shipping. He then splits the shipping cost based on quanity ordered and sends each party the sum he has to pay. They pay. Organiser then does the checkout with his credit card. Shipping address could be ALT, and each party can pick it up there or just have AL store them until they are ready to bespeak their suits.

The organiser should preferably be someone who has prior contact with AL, if ALT is to be the shipping address.

Othwise get silk haboutai locally or Bemberg Ambiance through myvoguefabrics or something like that.

Bemberg is just the type of fiber. How this fiber is woven into cloth is even more important. Which is why I said "Bemberg Ambiance". Ambiance is the cloth, Bemberg the material. Ermazine is the cloth, viscose the material.

I don't think Ambiance is as breathable as ermazine. Ambiance is much lighter, it weights almost nothing. But isn't as sheer as ermazine. It is closely woven. It is very soft and luxurious, like silk charmeuse, unlike ermazine which is more synthetic in feel. But AL says the ermazine is a sturdy lining.

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Added on April 22, 2010, 7:04 pmHey silencer, Manton gets a lot of his cloths from Tip-Top in NYC. It's supposed to be quite cheap.

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Added on April 22, 2010, 8:05 pmYou might want to give AL your camera and get him to take pics of you. Front, side, back. He has lower standards about fit than me.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Apr 22 2010, 08:05 PM

What sort of cloth did you go for? Did you go for the extra features like working cuffs and pick stitching?

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Added on April 23, 2010, 12:03 amWalnek:

1. Try sitting down in your new trousers. Do you feel the fork cutting into your family jewels? (Tell him you plan on having children later.) And the thighs: Are they too constricted by the trousers? Are the trousers too tight around the waist? AL likes to cut very tight fitting trousers. I suggest you try side adjusters (no belt loops). Most people have never tried them. And let him make the pants very short, like just touching your shoe. This will be the last time you'll see your pants before they are done. Mine never has any back pockets.

2. Wear your favourite shirt and a good pair of dress shoes to the fitting. Essential.

3. Use your forefinger and press on 6 points along the shoulder seam. Every point should have your flesh directly below it, none should be unsupported.

4. Make sure the lapel crease on both sides are not jutting out. They should be very close to your chest. Use a finger and press on the opening of the lapel, where your shirt shows. Gap between lapel and shirt should be minimal, about 4mm at most.

5. Make sure the jacket collar grips your shirt collar. Zero gap.

The others are visible and should show up in the photos.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Apr 23 2010, 12:51 AM

Oh no! My linen jacket will not be ready tomorrow! AL says Monday.

:sob:

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Added on April 23, 2010, 7:55 pmThis is just the stuff that do not show up in pics.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Apr 23 2010, 07:55 PM

That's what he told me too. "Very busy these few days."

I wanted to give him my Bemberg lining on a Sunday evening. Just drop it into his postbox, I thought.

I went there, but could see no postbox, but AL was at the cutting board hand-sewing something. At 10 pm on a Sunday.

He came out and took the lining from me.

I hope my dear esteemed friend Calvin approves of the notch style...

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Added on April 26, 2010, 11:28 pmMore pics tomorrow. One a day until end of week. This jacket is incredible. The best so far.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Apr 26 2010, 11:28 PM

Why do you keep asking me to unbutton my clothes?

Damn you, Calvin.

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Added on April 27, 2010, 6:02 pmWRT the sleeve length: AL says the sleeves will wrinkle like the bellows of an accordion, and will thus ride higher with wear.

I have seen RLPL linen jackets with similarly see through backs. It is unavoidable and part of the look.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Apr 27 2010, 06:48 PM

As odd trousers or part of a suit?

And again, damn you Calvin. May your navy suit turn out all wrong.

i cant belive you merely have "no problems" with the jacket. admit it is incredible!

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Added on April 27, 2010, 10:10 pm

This post has been edited by kotmj: Apr 27 2010, 10:10 PM

The quarters are perfect and you know it. (Silencer and walnek will recall how I communicated to AL about them.) I have now started loving the single button silhouette. It makes the coat so symmetrical. From now on, either one button or three. Never two again.