I am very seriously wanting to get him to make my next suit fully canvassed. I'm trying to hatch a Cunning Plan to make that possible at a low cost.

And your price is getting lower ... and our pricing getting appreciated.....

I really like this concept, but do not know of an observer of caliber...

http://www.thelondonlounge.net/forum/viewt...php?f=32&t=9210

Have you thought of purchasing a garment steamer? Helps you save $$$ on dry cleaning bills. Works better on jackets and trousers than shirts .

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Added on July 24, 2010, 1:21 amHere's a thought- why don't we get several of us to approach ALT collectively & negotiate a lower price based on bulk purchase of service. The prospective of having one big order of several suits at a go may be attractive to him

p.s May have found the mystery of why AL cuts his pants in that crotch constricting manner. He learnt his tailoring from his dad & the shop originally made equestrian clothing. Perhaps he thinks that what we want are jodhpurs!!

This post has been edited by beau: Jul 24 2010, 01:21 AM

I just came back from AL. He said he will give my next suit to a sifu who does full canvassing. I asked him if he has seen his work, and if it was up to scratch.

"In the KL area there is only one sifu who does it. There are a few others, but they are small timers and not many tailors give them jobs. They are not that good. Only that one sifu does it well enough. Everyone uses him."

I asked him if the collar was padded as well, but he didn't know.

The premium I have to pay is exorbitant, and I will have to eat Cintan mee for the next half year to pay for it. Also, my landlady will have to agree to deferring some rent, but I think that's a small sacrifice for her to make for the sake of furthering the sartorial arts of this meritocratic nation.

I also warned AL that a friend of mine will be coming to see him in the next few weeks.

I: Hui chong yim chiem ko ngo ah.
AL: Oiyo, kam yeong kui huei hui Bespoked lah! Em ta han fuk si ah!

There was immediate stirring in the galleys, by which I mean his younger sister and brother, both of whom started making noises I cannot quite decipher.

AL: Kiew huei hui tai si lah.

But I said he really liked what he saw, and that he wanted to try him out with a shirt and trousers first. If he's happy, I said, he plans to have a suit made -- but also fully canvassed.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Jul 24 2010, 05:36 PM

You better pray that the shifu is still mentally and physically capable and not moving around in a wheelchair with a Filipino maid checking his heart rate every hour.

I'm sure he's in the pink of health. He sounds like someone formidable, as least by Malaysian standards.

Actually we talked about a lot more. About the hymo I received from the UK, about soaking the finished canvas+chest pad in water overnight, about the lead time, and of course haggling over the premium. He kept warning me that the chest will not be as clean as on a fused jacket.

We talked about the Tan Sri and his one-suit-every-three-weeks habit. We talked about collar canvas. Etc.

I don't understand. Please elaborate.

That there will be pulls and puckering.

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Added on July 24, 2010, 10:09 pmHere you see director Chris Nolan with a jacket which has all this corrugated look at the chest. A fused suit wouldn't look like this.



A fused jacket would never look this crinkly and unpressed.



Look at the puckering at the lapels and collar and below the breast pocket.



Look at DiCaprio's collapsed chest

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Added on July 24, 2010, 10:15 pmAnd finally, look at this blazer by Poole. Damn chau.

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Added on July 24, 2010, 10:29 pmHere, you see even the great Will with a pull in the shoulder.



I can't believe I'm paying so much to have pulls and puckers.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Jul 24 2010, 10:29 PM

Oh. Will the waistcoat be fully canvassed?

It's a 2-piece. Not enough cloth for a 3.

But I heard waistcoats are canvassed with linen.

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Added on July 25, 2010, 3:18 pmI put on my first AL suit last night to check the fit, and wow, I've really grown. It's so tight now, and there are divots on the sleeveheads because my deltoids have grown. My deltoids were sticking out from the sleeveheads. Haih. All that protein powder and gymming have really done something.

The navy DB will have to be much looser. Not just because I plan to put on another 3 kg of lean mass, but because I need to be able to wear a wool jumper under it.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Jul 25 2010, 03:18 PM

I thought you planned for a 3pc navy DB suit?

If the divots are that bad you can send the suit to me.

The 3pc was for the mohair cloth, of which I have 4m. What I need now is a warm suit, and there is not enough cloth:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NAVY-100-PURE-NEW-WO...=item3a5a8b2f1e

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Added on July 25, 2010, 6:04 pmYou can come and pick up the suit if you wish...

This post has been edited by kotmj: Jul 25 2010, 06:04 PM

Are the shoulders by any chance 17"?

You could have been my twin.

Hi Sir Kotmj, so r u going for peaked lapel, 6 buttons, ventless and full canvass DB...

Read in the SF forum, that the button positioning and lapel configuration is vital for an average height person... like me...

By the way, how hard to mantain a Super 150's wool if I'm going to wear it twice in a month...FOR a year....

This post has been edited by silencer: Jul 25 2010, 11:33 PM

What prices did he quote for a fully canvassed jacket?

For the next ALT challenge, I propose a de-constructed jacket in linen with minimal shoulder padding, extremely high arm holes and very little lining . The jacket should fit like a cardigan if fitted well.
Will post pictures shortly.

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Added on July 25, 2010, 11:43 pmThe jacket's going to be shinny in some places ( elbows etc ) unless the weight of the material is above 300gms.



This post has been edited by beau: Jul 25 2010, 11:43 PM

You've commissioned that or is that merely in the planning stage?

I wanted an unstructured jacket, but AL has no experience making one. He just wasn't up to it, from my conversation with him. He knew less than me about it. I went for a structured linen jacket because of this and because shapeliness is what I want from a jacket anyway.

However, I have since found a RTW unstructured jacket, and it certainly is constructed very cleverly. It would be easy for him to copy. Once you have a sample, it's no big deal.

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Added on July 25, 2010, 11:45 pmI was forbidden by AL to reveal the prices he charges me.

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Added on July 25, 2010, 11:47 pmI'm going for a double-vented 6X2 fully-canvassed DB with the most natural shoulder he has done to date and with swappable buttons.

I would never go for S150 myself, but I think infrequent wear is OK since their chief problem is the wrinkling. They would have 2 weeks to hang out between wear, so it's OK.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Jul 25 2010, 11:51 PM

wow...u were so fast replying...as i was going to say that.....

My structured linen jacket, in case anyone has forgotten about it