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 The suiting thread v2

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BonVivant
post Jul 23 2010, 04:10 AM

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Hello

I've already introduced myself in the men's shoes thread. On that thread, I talked a little about suits and shirts in the UK, where I live and that has generated some interest. As I'm still a student, I'm yet to purchase any MTM or bespoke suits there. However, I am quite pleased with the RTW range there. Clearly, they are nowhere as good as MTM or bespoke ones but at the price I am paying, I have no complaints. Here are a few pictures of one of my Charles Tyrwhitt suits. It's a navy twill, 3 piece suit. Surprisingly, it's half-canvassed with horse and goat hair and has working albeit machine stitched cuffs.

In case anyone wants to know, the tie is from Eton, shirt from T.M. Lewin and pocket square from Hilditch & Key. The suit has been heavily altered to fit. Also, i couldn't get a back and side profile! I was getting irritated with my camera timer and prancing around in a 3-piece wool suit in summer is far from fun.

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Barely passable button holes.....

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It's not made in London tongue.gif Fabric is milled in Yorkshire and the suit itself is made in Tunisia.
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Please be kind to my ego.
BonVivant
post Jul 26 2010, 12:55 AM

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Any thoughts of having roped shoulders as well? They're not the most common thing but it might look good on a double breasted suit by giving it a slight military look. I have a black, single buttoned, peak lapel suit with slightly roped shoulders. It looks nice but I'm not too sure if I can actually pull it of. Bought it on impulse. Will post pics at some point.
BonVivant
post Aug 2 2010, 12:03 AM

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QUOTE(FusioneX @ Aug 1 2010, 12:09 PM)
The smoking jacket I lounge around in is in velvet.
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If you're not joking, the I salute you. I always wanted a burgundy smoking jacket for those occasions where I partake in the pleasures of a Montecristo no. 4 and a tipple of single malt........ actually.... not really.
BonVivant
post Oct 31 2010, 12:39 AM

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Met an ex-Savile Row tailor and he got me this for close to nothing. It's an ex-shop sample.

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The hanger is Huntsman but the dinner jacket is not. Just wanted to create some suspense. It's made by Chris Kerr, another bespoke tailor. http://www.chriskerr.com/# The bespoke tailoring scene is very close knitted hence he was able to get me the Huntsman hanger just for cheap thrills. The quality is just amazing - fully canvassed and pick stitched lapels. Strange enough, it fits me really well although it wasn't tailored for me. Only the bit below the arm holes need to be taken in by 1/4 of an inch. Even then, that's only if I'm being pedantic. My contact will keep a look out for more samples for me!

This post has been edited by BonVivant: Oct 31 2010, 01:12 AM
BonVivant
post Oct 31 2010, 06:14 PM

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It was a chance meeting in the East End. The crowd there tends to quite friendly so I do sometimes chat to random people as I buy records and other vintage goods. I initially didn't know that the chap I was talking to was a tailor as he was the owner of an interior design shop but our conversation soon drifted to suiting. He used to be a tailor in Nutters of Savile Row.

The only dilemma I have now is that I do not have matching trousers for the dress suit jacket. I'm planning to go to the tailor who made it so that I can get a pair of trousers that would match the jacket exactly but that would set me back a small fortune and it would not be made in time for my annual Christmas ball. Any suggestions?

Oh.... did I also forget the need for a cummerbund and silk socks.


Also, I will be back in Malaysia for slightly more than a week in January. Do you think ALT or Bespoked will be able to make me a decent suit with minimal instruction in that time?

This post has been edited by BonVivant: Oct 31 2010, 06:20 PM
BonVivant
post Oct 31 2010, 08:41 PM

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QUOTE(3ff3z8e @ Oct 31 2010, 10:24 AM)
Hmm... I'm actually thinking of ordering a stopgap tuxedo (Until I have the opportunity to have one made for myself) for my Company's Christmas party as well. Theme says Black and White party, which I looked up the meaning;.... and to save myself from the indignity of showing as a penguin or a submachinegun toting nun, it'll be a tuxedo sweat.gif

But since it's a stopgap tux which will be relegated to "reserve" role, I'm actually looking at Marks and Spencer as Tom Mahon from the english cut recommended. They sell the tux jacket and pants seperately so perhaps you might want to look into that.

I'm really wondering now if I should just get the GBP99 one button notch lapel polyester or fork out another 100GBP for a pure wool peak lapel?

Oh and I'm actually looking out for a cummerbund and bow-tie and a pair of patent leather which I've Identified two options..... Sanders from pediwear has a pair for about 90GBP and herring shoes has one from Barker for about GBP120-ish... will decide 2moro....

http://www.pediwear.co.uk/sanders/products/1817.php

http://www.herringshoes.co.uk/product-info...tID=3&seconds=0

btw, Bon, did you manage to try the code out for Herringshoes yet?
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I guess I probably wouldn't be getting another pair of shoes as getting a decent black tie kit is not the cheapest thing. My colleagues just dropped the bomb that almost all men will be in black tie so I can't possibly just wear a 3-piece suit. Regarding your question on shoes, I think that pair of Barker's is a little too squarish at the toes for my liking so I will go for the Sander's. I'm just going to wear a pair of well-polished Oxfords to save on cost.

Don't go for M&S evening suits. All their trousers have belt-loops. Also, since I can't imagine myself wearing polyester, I wouldn't suggest it as well.
BonVivant
post Nov 1 2010, 04:07 PM

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I did consider wearing a silk waistcoat. Does the silk/satin on the lapel need to match the waistcoat? I know that it has to match the bow-tie and cummerbund. However, given the size of the bow-tie and cummerbund, it would probably go unnoticed if they didn't match the lapel. A waistcoat is on the other hand a different story. Perhaps an ivory waistcoat although it may make the outfit too formal. Also, any ideas where I can buy a RTW dinner waistcoat other than Ede and Ravenscroft?
BonVivant
post Nov 2 2010, 04:10 PM

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Beau, you have an encyclopaedic knowledge of all the best menswear shops in London! I must say I'm impressed. Favourbook seems like the best bet but I've seen their shop window display and most of the time, I get a feeling that it's a little too ostentatious. Their website did contain more sober options though. Anyone with recommendations on colour/ pattern for the waistcoat?
BonVivant
post Nov 3 2010, 03:46 AM

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Misspent youth? Sartorial (I can't believe I'm using this word) enlightenment is a long journey best when one is young.

Too bad I can't wait for the post-Christmas sales. All the balls and dinners would be before Christmas. There goes another chunk of this month's salary - that's if I even have the time to go to the shops.

I propose that we organise a LowYat suiting-thread meeting in London at some point! Ideally sometime in January to take advantage of £60 Turnbull & Asser shirts amongst other equally fantastic deals. I will buy a round of drinks if it happens.

This post has been edited by BonVivant: Nov 3 2010, 03:47 AM
BonVivant
post Dec 3 2010, 07:31 AM

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A snippet from a to be released documentary on tailoring in Napoli. The cinematography and soundtrack is sublime.

http://vimeo.com/16443611

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