Holy sweet sartorial jesus! I never thought I would see gshen from SF on Lowyat.net.
Your knowledge of Singaporean bespoke would really help most of the forumers in here.

Anyway, a warm welcome to you, gshen! 

Now you are being awfully humble, gshen. It is small timers like me who look up to people like you.

If I remember correctly, kotmj even showed some of your pictures to his tailor, Ah Loke as reference material.

Oh MAI gawd. It's indeed gshen. The real God has cometh. Move over GodStalkermj!

Iris Tailor sounds like a place my friend recommended. It could be him you ran into. I believe he came across some of his old RTW  suits when he was clearing his HK property for rent . I was not in Singapore last week.

We were colleagues in London , he subsequently relocated to Singapore while I was posted to HK before returning to Malaysia.

We were recommended to AMHC by another colleague ( who have since switch allegiance to WW Chan ) The same colleague came across a bale of vintage sea island which was sold as part of a liquidation exercise of a European firm. It was sold at a very ridiculously low price & some of us have fond memories of the wonderful shirts that were created as a result of that purchase.

Iris Tailor comes highly recommended by him as it's given some of his old suits a new life. I am waiting for him to commission something ( I think he was planning to make a hacking jacket in Harris Tweed & a Linen Jacket ) before I pay them a visit.

It helps that Nani, the fitter furnished him with some culinary recommendations from Indonesia in time for the World Cup which appealed to his inner gluttony. If you do happen to run into him, tell him to bring more of the Indonesian Cashews & Prawn Crackers when he comes up to Malaysia otherwise we won't let him cross the border!!

Sounds like you've met my friend.

...

Who is your current shirt maker?

I've used Ascot Chang & Davids in HK. Of the two , AC has the best fit & finish. David's isn't too shabby either . Jantzen is another name I hear about , opinions are highly polarized about their ability ( or lack of, depending on your experience with them )

Have you looked at Charvet? Beautiful shirts but they induce a sharp intake of breath when it come to pay for them.

Here are pictures of me wearing the jacket. Please bear in mind that this fitted 8 years ago.

Gshen,

What is your opinion regarding Tailor Chan at Starhub Centre?

I was meeting some clients nearby & was introduced to this tailor as Singapore's answer to  Savile Row Bespoke.

1. He quoted SIN$800 for labor excluding materials for a suit & SIN$80 for a shirt.
2. The shirts were not inspirational -he claims that it's not possible to tailor a shirt with non fused collar in Singapore
3. The jackets he made had a nice lapel roll with pick stitchings on the edges. He claims to only make non-fused fully canvas suits. The cut was fine but I would prefer the pick stitching to be more subtle & almost invisible.
4. When asked about matching patterns  ( especially around the jettings etc,) he didn't seem very pleased.

Any thoughts you have on this tailor is appreciated

Agreed. It takes time, effort & sometimes several suits to cultivate the relationship .

I'll probably need to have the jacket in the picture altered given my changed body shape.

I was put off by the tailor's attitude for the following reasons:-

1. He claimed that the lack of skilled labor made it virtually impossible to tailor non-fused collar shirts in HK or Singapore. This is clearly incorrect as my shirts from AC & David's from HK have non-fused collars.

2. Only one fitting was offered with the jacket closed to finish stage. The lack of labor  in Singapore was cited as a reason . Your postings on Styleforum & the conversations I had with my other Singapore based friends indicate that this is not the case. I fail to understand how the perfect fit is going to be achieved when most high end tailors on the Row, Italy or HK require a minimum of 2 to 3 fittings. He didn't seem happy when I suggested an initial fitting at the basting stage. There was a Caucasian customer in his shop at the same time wearing one of their products , the lack of fitting was telling by the gape between the collar & the shirt.

3. The coup de grace' was the request to have patterns aligned at the lapels , shoulder and jettings. His response was no tailor matches patterns at the jettings & the most important matching is at the rear of the jacket with the collar & back. I had the sad duty to inform him that Andersen & Shepherd 's trademark is matching patterns at jettings.

I would probably give the place a miss despite his reputation .

BTW I have passed the unconstructed jacket to my friend who will probably make it his next project at Iris ( see my pictures on this several threads back ). He made a pair of cross over pants in Scabal cotton there too & seem relatively pleased.

Yes it's similar to a shirt jacket. The sample I provided should provide your tailor with plenty of guidance on how to do one. The lack of structure means that the cut is critical .I may follow suit after my guinea pig successfully completes his jacket.

Which is the reason I would never show him the jacket as long as he's alive. In fact, he asked me to bring along my jacket for comparison few weeks ago. I refused by saying I left it somewhere in your place.

Here is the list of what I've done.
1. Resew all of his buttons
2. Slightly trim padding around the sleeve head
3. Pick-stitched all over the suit
4. Reset the lapel roll
5. Remove and re-stitch sleeve lining(also removed couple of tacks securing the lining along the sleeve seam)

1. What fabric are you using?

2. Have you considered having a slightly boat shaped breast pocket for a distinctive bespoke look?

3. Are you having single, double or no vents?

4. Although this is personal to me, my preference is for the jacket to be slightly longer ( up to the length of your knuckles ), more built up in the chest with greater waist suppression.

It's probably best to provide feedback with the trousers which I assume is a full cut to be worn with braces etc. It would give a more accurate depiction of the overall silhouette one is trying to achieve. I would suggest you have a fitting with the trousers in order to better assess the full picture.

Let us know how this works out.

p.s. I assume this is with Iris , your regular tailor. Is there a three way mirror available for you to conduct a self assessment during the fittings?

Good choice-Where did you buy your Minnis from?

Something is wrong with the back. Either the back balance is too long, or it is too short. I think it might be the latter.

There is also a horizontal ripple in the upper back under the collar. It's a common problem and can be made to go away.

I think the length is perfect. A DB is supposed to be shorter than a SB anyway.

Is there canvassing in there already?