just picked up my suit from dry cleaning

it was straight as hell! was so happy that it is iron able has no idea how they do it tho

but i can see some threads poking out inside .. is this normal?

and the made in italy label on the back 1 side stiching fell off

Hi guys,
A friend just made a suit in one of our local tailor.
Please feel free to comment.

This post has been edited by genesis826: Sep 25 2010, 12:21 AM


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The Zegna No 1 fabric is a 15 Mil 15 reproduction of their original fabric. Not recommended for frequent wear & requires expert dry cleaning. Given your particular circumstances perhaps I would suggest the following:-

1. Go for classics which will allow you to wear the suit over a few years. This means a fully hand canvassed , non fused suit.
2. Do you travel to Singapore & are you able to travel at least 4 to 5 times for fittings? A good friend as well as someone on the forum has used a tailor there with some success. Singapore has less choices when it comes to fabrics but VBC an Italian textile is readily available & is sold at reasonable prices there.
3. Perhaps a VBC Super 120's in mid or charcoal grey for the day in a notch lapel single breasted 3 button roll 2 configuration followed with a peak lapel 2 button single breasted in Navy blue for the evening in a similar fabric. By getting that you may find more use for your suits & jacket as opposed to getting a tuxedo / dinner jacket.

ALT has Dugdales but I'm not sure if there are frescos in that book.

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Added on September 25, 2010, 1:10 amYou should think of getting your suits from Anderson & Sheppard at Savile Row , London. They sew their labels in the inner pocket of their jackets so there is little chance of the label falling off!!

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Added on September 25, 2010, 1:16 am1. Shoulders a tad padded & too wide. Needs to be narrowed slightly with less padding.
2. Jacket seems too short & could do with some waist suppression to give it shape
3. Sleeves seem too wide , too much shirt cuff showing
4. Trouser length too long & trouser needs to be tapered.



This post has been edited by beau: Sep 25 2010, 01:16 AM

The front is the ugliest I've seen in a very long while.

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Added on September 25, 2010, 6:11 amI went back to the first job shop today. Bought a trousering length of a thickish, very high quality greyish brown fancy herringbone worsted. It looks a bit like Zegna's No. 1. It is about 11 oz. About a Super 100s.

Bought white shirting linen.

Bought Cupro lining for the overcoat. Couldn't find the right colour of Cupro (limited availability) for the grey micro herringbone. One bolt of Cupro there was the best ever lining I have held in my hands. Thick, smooth, so very luxurious. But it was in wine (like red wine). Not quite the colour for anything in particular.

There are generally two types of Cupro: thick and thin. Both feels better than viscose, and viscose feels better than polyester.

Bought Guetermann silk thread (for buttonholes) in the right colour for both the overcoat and the micro herringbone.

Went to Muji. Everything rather expensive and not very high quality. I have higher expectations at that pricing level. They are 20% better than Ikea but cost 400% more. Their umbrellas in particular are disappointing. At Knirps' pricing level but below Knirps' quality. Their alarm clocks are laughable compared to Junghans' but priced several multiples of Junghans'. Objectively speaking, without comparison to the incredible Junghans, the alarm clocks look like cheapo China stuff you would buy for maybe RM10. But they try to sell them for RM260. Stupid shop. Stupid franchise. Another one of those places that tries to blind you with its marketing.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Sep 25 2010, 06:11 AM

This local tailor is carrying VBC.
Charging RM2500 for 2 pc and extra rm300 for full canvass.


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RM2.5K for a 2pc like that is ridiculous. Buy your own cloth and tell him you will pay RM600 for that talentless idiot to make it up (he will say yes). Tell him to take it or leave it. You can get a stupid cut like that in any alley in KL. My fully canvassed DB with a ton of handwork with fishtail trousers that went through two fittings costs several hundred ringgit less than 2K in total. I don't know WTF is wrong with you people.

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Added on September 25, 2010, 5:43 pmYour friend, BTW, will not be able to move in his stupid suit.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Sep 25 2010, 05:48 PM

Any advise how to improve the cut?
His workmanship seems not too bad.
Just his design sense not up to date

Good stuff-I look forward to viewing pictures of your forthcoming commissions .

Muji is really a rip off outside Japan.

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Added on September 25, 2010, 7:58 pmVBC is an entry level Italian fabric which should serve you well as an occasional wearer.

However the local tailor is ripping you off big time. It would be cheaper for you to buy the fabric & take it to another tailor

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Added on September 25, 2010, 8:01 pmThe suit makes your friend look like President Ahmadinejad of Iran. The suit seems to be beyond redemption.

Go to another tailor

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Added on September 25, 2010, 8:02 pmOr better yet, let us have the name of the tailor so we can avoid the place or send our worse enemies there

This post has been edited by beau: Sep 25 2010, 08:02 PM

The lapel treatment is ridiculous. Too bellied, and the gorge execution is so awful. Also, there is a technical problem with the lapel crease edge. It is rounded, almost like it is gaping open without even being provoked.

Your friend is in serious need of a haircut and a fat loss regime. The tailor tried to create a waist with imperfect success: it is the RTW sort of waisting -- mild, indistinct, tubular. Because of the fat in his mid-section, there is simply insufficient space in the waist for the suit to be comfortable. I wore my suit jacket all the time during a 16-hour journey. I watched countless movies in the thing, ate the magnificent food (I never suspected the food was this good in business class), and slept in it. It would have been uncomfortable if the jacket was too close to my waist.

There is zero back of armsyce drape.

The shoulders are like speed bumps. I mean, WTF, they look like the humps on camels. Any tailor who makes shoulders like these can be safely written off immediately with no recourse for pleas.

Some additional info on the side:
"Slim fit" stuff do not work. If you look at the suits that accomplished tailors themselves wear, they are really loose. But they are not shapeless. The shoulders are wide enough that the sleeves fall vertically down without touching your deltoids. There is a generous amount of drape in the chest and upper back area. These two factors make for a big upper body -- which makes it possible to nip it in the waist without making the jacket too close-fitting in the waist. Following the nip is a flaring of the skirt which creates the symmetrical hourglass silhouette. There is plenty of drape in the back of the armscye to facilitate movement of the arms. Armholes are high.

The opening of the quarters is as tasteless as AL's before his reformation.

Then comes the issue of workmanship. It is not clear what amount of handwork is in the jacket. But I have learnt to be pessimistic in this regard. The buttonholes are most probably machine sewn. Lapels are not padded. The lining may even be put in by machine. Buttons are plastic. Lining is polyester.

In essence, not much better than a Bangkok suit.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Sep 26 2010, 04:15 AM

Can't you all see that his friend is wearing the pants way to low? I can see his budcrack even with the jacket on.

This post has been edited by bloke1: Sep 26 2010, 03:04 PM

I would never fail to notice any exposed buttcrack. They are not visible here.

But the sleeves are waaay too long. How is one expected to use one's hands?

Can the sifus here advise what to look out for during the first suit fitting? Will be going for mine in the next few days.

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Added on September 27, 2010, 1:07 amSo does this mean the shoulder width is too tight? It should be let out a little to allow the sleeves to fall from the shoulder in an unbroken line all the way to the sleeve. Do you think the sleeves should be tapered some more.
The tailor did mention that the shoulder width is too tight but did not follow his advise.
Regarding the shoulder padding, i am not sure if there are various types of materials. His normal shoulder padding consisted of 5 layers and for this suit, it was reduced to 3 layers at clients request. The tailor mentioned that the thinning of the padding would cause this bump and some pulling of the fabric at the collar. I cannot imagine having 5 layers of padding..i think it will be too thick. Again, could there be different types of material which would lead to different effects?

For the lapels, any specific advise on how to make it better?

Another friend went there to make another suit yesterday and fitting should be in a few days time... (no choice.this is probably the "best tailor" in this small town). Maybe with your advise we can re-invent this tailor like what you did with AL?

So..I will take this opportunity to learn as much as I can before I make mine in KL.



This post has been edited by genesis826: Sep 27 2010, 01:07 AM

That is the perfect lala sleeve length ler. The convention is to wear it with french cuffs flipped out of the jacket sleeves. No cufflinks required.

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Added on September 27, 2010, 2:22 amBut then he follows the half an inch linen show rule. I think your friend needs to start with his shirts first, not suits.

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Added on September 27, 2010, 2:24 amAnd tell him to wear his pants higher, not hipster.

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Added on September 27, 2010, 2:48 amAlso, the balance of his pants are off.Look at how the fabric clings onto the back of his legs and thighs.

This post has been edited by bloke1: Sep 27 2010, 02:48 AM

haha its just the made in italy label tho behind the neck .. the stitching is similar to Gucci shirts label, its quite weak and i think with abit force can pull it out , i asked my maid to resew it , but i am still wondering how did it came of after sending it for dry cleaning, perhaps i should switch to other dry cleaner as previously my Giorgio Armani dress shirt's 1 side of the collar holder or something went missing ...

the main Giorgio Armani label inside the chest is still intact

but i am kinda addicted to wear jackets these days and i feel next time i would love to get a brighter color one.. but not in the near future i am way too broke now and i still have to complete my staple wardrobe

I spent the day out in the city with one of my bosses. He gets his shirts and suits from the tailor that made jind his suit. Also a big fan of ties -- he kept looking at them in the windows (shops are closed on Sunday). I think I will get him something from Drakes.

The guy is beset by a deep mistrust of other human beings. Refuses to talk about his native country, his parents, his family. It's like he tries to erase these elements from his memory. He sees people in an adversarial light.

I have this other boss who is really sweet, psychologically-stable, and comes from parents he likes. But I have always found there to be a distance between us. And I realised today that distance is due to one reason only: the watches he wears.

Big timer watches. VERY big timer watches. The most expensive out there in the market. And that made him superhuman in my eyes. I saw him as someone operating above my league.

And then I learnt today from this boss that the other guy's watches are fakes. That he is too young to afford such watches.

And all of a sudden, he looks so much more human to me.

Lesson? The stuff you wear can dramatically skew people's perception of you.

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Added on September 27, 2010, 3:44 amIt's one of the reasons why I try not to dress too well. It is very easy, since I know how and have the clothes, to dress to kill. But it would make me look inapproachable: too sophisticated, too monied, too out-of-the-ordinary.

It is good to look a little shabby always, to look not quite colour-coordinated, to look casual even when wearing "formal" clothes. It makes you look normal, human, approachable.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Sep 27 2010, 03:44 AM

any idea where to get shirt with collar like this..

This post has been edited by hanhanhan: Sep 27 2010, 05:01 PM

Guido fashions!

Must be a most exerent tailor with a name like that..

Has to be tailor made.

My new pants would be using a reverse coil zipper.