I did I supplier visit yesterday and the guy who showed us around said, "Please excuse me for the way I'm dressed. I would normally be in a shirt with a tie. But today was a bit cold so I'm dressed like this [V-neck pullover on bare skin]. But that doesn't mean I take you any less seriously." LOL.

FCDB is really warm. It is twice as warm as GDT's POW. The DB is truly an ideal cold weather garment: It exposes very little of your chest, unlike a SB. Just wear an ascot and you have everything covered. The quarters are completely closed. Not only are the quarters closed but the overlap on the front means that even when one of the flaps is blowing in the wind, the other flap keeps your all important crotch covered and warm. The overlap on the front gives you twice the insulation. The wider lapels provide additional insulation.

With the POW I would need to wear a pullover underneath. With the DB, just a shirt on bare skin. In weather like this (16 celcius, moderate winds).

With the POW, I rarely wear a PS. I think the pattern on the cloth provides sufficient visual interest. With the plain navy DB, I always have a white linen PS because without it, the jacket looks very forbidding.

I went to a job shop today. This is the first time I've been to one, and it is like being in what I would imagine to be a high class harem.

There were all sorts of stuff in there. There were many of the elusive wool/linen/silk mixes in summery tones. There was a small selection of kid mohair. There were wool/silk mixes that were shiny and prone to wrinkling. There were many types of flannell, one of them was very much like the trousers I was wearing. There were heavy suiting linens. There were cotton poplins, acetate and silk linings, canvassing, shirting linens, cotton muslins, etc. Everything! Most of the cloths have no selvedge because they were made for the RTW/MTM industry, but the Scabals (25 Euros/m) have selvedges. Every roll of cloth has a label on which is the price, the composition, and where applicable, the brand. There were lots of Strelson's (a local suiting brand one tier below Hugo Boss), surprisingly many YSLs, Gucci's, one lone length of a Reid & Taylor jacketing, one Loro Piana, about a dozen Scabals, and one Ralph Lauren tweed. Zegnas everywhere. Many others have no brand.

I bought:

1. 2.2m of a very dense, heavy, light grey woolen flannell. This is about twice the weight of my trousering flannell, and I plan to have this made up as a knee-length overcoat. But I will only start with this project if it is ever confirmed that I will need to go someplace very cold in the depths of winter. The label says "Gucci", there is no selvedge. Though very heavy, the cloth is not thick. It is quite thin. But so dense that I think it requires no canvassing.

2. A trousering length of a light navy/French blue wide herringbone melange "Loro Piana" (says the label, but no selvedge). It is a light cloth, about 8-9 oz. I kept wondering if I should buy a suiting length, but it is a French blue -- probably too light for a business suit. The handle and drape is wonderful (for the weight) -- this is obviously a high performance cloth. This is the weight of the cloth the guy who came out of the first class lounge in Dubai wore.

3. 3.5m of a mid-grey narrow (micro) herringbone in a melange (i.e. mottled). 10 oz. The label did not have a brand on it. This cloth has the best drape of all I handled today. There is enough here for a 3-piece.

4. 2m of the densest cotton muslin I found in the shop. It was all they had left. The quality is breathtaking. It's very smooth, very densely woven with fine yarns, which give the cloth a lot of body and spring (for a panama weave cotton muslin, that is). I think this is ideal for cuffs. Maybe even collars -- but I'll need to ask MBT.

The total damage was some 113 Euros. The real challenge is how to transport this back. The cloths are bulky. And heavy.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Sep 19 2010, 02:40 AM

I want your DB pic.........and when r u coming back??? Went to ALT yest...and he was mentioning of the extra charge for your DB suit.......that interchange buttons holes..cost an extra..

Your Highness, I'll be back early next month. The swappable buttons ought to cost Your Highness a surcharge, not a humble nobody like me. I have no camera with me, but will endeavor to change that situation in the coming week.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Sep 19 2010, 02:21 AM

Check with your local DHL for the jumbo box rates. Do post some pictures of the fabrics.

I did a search for the manufacturer of the cotton muslin. The selvedge says "Ploucquet Markenstoff". This is the company:

http://ploucquet.eu/de/customers/

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Added on September 19, 2010, 8:30 pmI'm thinking that I should just go with a DHL Jumbo Junior box. Flat rate 10 kg. That way, I can buy more cloths. And also the iron frying pan, the French vintage copper saucepan, and the selection of dildos for when Lokemui comes visiting.

The prices at the job shop is laughable, and the ability to pick the cloths in person is much superior to buying over the internet. By buying in person, I can seek out the very best amongst the vast selection, and I know exactly what I am buying.

BTW I used the overcoat flannell as a blanket last night. The temperature was 8 degrees Celcius. (I always sleep with the window open, even in the depths of winter.) It failed miserably as a blanket. I felt the cold air passing through it. Meh.

I spent some time getting to know the cloths I bought. The Loro Piana is a very high super number, at least a 120s if not a 150s. The grey micro herringbone is probably a 120s. I have never seen cloth springier and livelier than the grey micro herringbone. It simply stood out amongst all the other cloths I handled yesterday.

This coming Saturday, I am thinking of buying a trousering length of the grey micro herringbone, one or two shirting linens, and one of the wool/linen/silk mixes for making into casual trousers. Maybe also a trousering length of suiting linen, and off-white cotton drill for chinos (my poor Padini chino is showing its age). Also, I will buy some of the fusibles available in this country. They are made by Freudenberg and sold under the brand Vilene. It is one of the best fusibles available for home sewers and can really be fused with just a home iron. The website gives precise instructions. I may have to use them to make collar composites. I like my collars to be pliant, yet stand up proudly. No collapsing collars for me.

I'll also buy the widely available silk buttonhole threads for both the overcoat and the 3-piece. The Guetermann silk threads here are multipurpose. They look identical to the Kanagawa stuff. Every haberdasher here stocks them. MBT keeps telling me that these silk threads will fade with age. This is probably the reason why Amann sells a specialty synthetic buttonhole thread called Seralon. It is widely available. But it's going to be silk for me.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Sep 19 2010, 08:30 PM

anychance u guys know what time does ALT close? was thinking of going there after working hours for a consult on suit

I managed to kidnap a camera this morning. I went into the nearest restroom with it. It was too risky taking pics of myself in the mirror in front of the sinks because someone might come in at any time. I smuggled it into the nearest toilet stall and took the following pics just for you little sweet things.

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Added on September 20, 2010, 10:55 pmNotice the dart under the lapel? I am convinced now that all DBs should have it. I do not have a jacket where the lapel crease edge stays as close to the chest regardless of circumstance.

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Added on September 20, 2010, 10:58 pmHe closes at 7 p.m.

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Added on September 20, 2010, 11:24 pmBTW my DB has been drenched by the rain 4 times in the past week. Despite having an umbrella, the lower half of the jacket gets completely drenched whenever it rains because my umbrella is small and the winds are strong.

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Added on September 20, 2010, 11:34 pmSeveral months back, I bid on but lost the auction for 3.32m of the following cloth. The highest bidder would not pay, so I am now given the option of buying this piece for 16 pounds + shipping.

I'm not sure if I should buy it. If any of you are interested, tell me and I will purchase it for you.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...E:X:SCO:GB:1123

This post has been edited by kotmj: Sep 20 2010, 11:34 PM

That double overcheck is very unusual. If it's old skool stuff, probably 11-12oz. Go for it!

They don't look like jeffreyd's buttonholes!

[quote=kotmj,Sep 20 2010, 10:47 PM]
I managed to kidnap a camera this morning. I went into the nearest restroom with it. It was too risky taking pics of myself in the mirror in front of the sinks because someone might come in at any time. I smuggled it into the nearest toilet stall and took the following pics just for you little sweet things.



A vast improvement over what I've seen in the shop. Obviously not done by one of the galley slaves

I'd end up buying half the cloths on ebay if I were to listen to you.

Hi all,
Am new to this forum but have been reading the threads on tailors and suits for the past few days.

I am looking for a wedding suit for my wedding in December and am thinking a grey suit with cream vest, cream cravat for the morning church ceremony. Similar to the grey suit in the pic but the vest would not be so high up.

For the dinner, am thinking of a black suit with either cream vest/cream cravat (as per morning session) , black vest/black cravat, silver vest/silver cravat, black vest/red cravat or just a cream bow tie.

Black suit to be similar with the photos (shiny effect).

Appreciate any comments.

Also, as I am not from KL but make frequent trips there, I am still thinking which tailor to use. From the forum, I understand ALT and Bespoked are the recommended ones. Another tailor recommended by a friend is Anthony Tay at Binwanis BSC.

I have actually met all 3 during my last trip to KL about a week ago. I feel Anthony from Binwanis is very approachable and proactive, etc. For ALT, he did not say very much when I met him. Furthermore, he may need a lot of technical instructions to get a good modern cut which I may be incompetent with. For Bespoked...good suits, nice shop..but somehow feel a little intimidated there.

Would appreciate any advise on which tailor i should go for.

Thanks.


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so ..the Question is ... r u seriously looking for a competent tailor or social escort service???? What did u expect that old guy to say?..that he would make a suit that will transform your look like a model in the picture??? Why don u judge the person by looking through all of the suits that r available in that particular tailors' shops......

Do you plan to use your suits after your wedding ( work, functions etc )

Do you remember the white 3 piece suit that John T wore on "Saturday Night Fever" ? I recall attending a spate of weddings as a pre-teen where elder cousins wore similar outfits for their nuptial rites. These old wedding photos now provide much mirth during family gatherings & events of such ilk.

If you don't wish to become fodder for humor 10 years down or feel embarrassed everytime your old classmates show your wedding pictures during a reunion, think "classic" & "less is more."

Although this reflects my personal taste, I would suggest the following:-

1. Mid / light Grey 2 piece in a light weight wool , single breasted with a plain pattern weave tie in silver paired with a white or sky blue pure cotton shirt , black Oxford lace ups . The fabric of the suit should be around 8 to 9 oz max with a Fresco weave. You'll be glad for something light weight to see you through the Church ( which presumably is not air conditioned ) , the tea reception as well as the other day festivities.

Ditch the waist coat if you don't wish to look like a gay flamenco dancer & suffer in the heat & humidity. 2.

2. Either a single breasted peak lapel dinner jacket in midnight blue ( tuxedo )-worn with a proper black silk bow tie or a Navy Blue double breasted suit 6 button show 2 worn with a silver houndstooth tie paired again with a white cotton shirt with French cuffs & black polished Oxford shoes for the evening event. MIdnight blue is great as it appears black without the shine in artificial lighting.

No colored bow tie or band with black tie.

Remember:-
1. It's the bride's day to stand out, not the grooms and
2. Think Cary Grant & not John Travolta.
3. Less is more.
4. Don't become fodder for the next stand up comedian in your family a few years down the road!!

The lapel buttonhole seems too small. It should be at least an inch wide.

Hi,
Very seldom to have a chance to wear suits. Maybe only 1-2 times a year.
Definitely no white suits for me.

For the mid/light grey suit you mentioned, is it something like in the photo? Or lighter.
I am not familiar with cloth. Fresco weave, do you have a photo of it? and any where to get it in KL? The church is fully air conditioned. Tea reception will be in air conditioned ball room as well.

Midnight blue such as the Brosnan photo? never considered midnight blue till i saw this photo.

Design wise I think more or less I have an idea.

Now is the tailor..which one would you recommend?

Have you tried or heard of Anthony from Binwanis? Any comments/feedback re this tailor?


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The mid grey is as depicted in the photo.
1. What is your budget?
2. How much time do you have before the wedding?
3. Would you prefer a non-fused fully canvassed suit?
4. How much features ( colored linings, working cuffs etc ) do you required on your suits?

It will be difficult to post a picture as fresco is a description of a weave.

Go to Binwani's ( the one on Tunku Abdul Rahman ), Euromoda & Jackal to get some idea of what fabrics are available.

Aside from ALT & Bespooked ( no pun intended ) there's Granoff at The Gardens . Judging from your earlier requirements , Mansor of Granoff would enjoy having a go at your wedding outfits.

No experience with Anthony but Rashidi , a former tailor from Binwanis is supposed to be setting up in Bangsar.

I've not seen any samples of his work but some on the forum seem to be pleased with his efforts.

Here's a tip-go to all the tailors again & ask for samples of their work.

If you have money to blow why don't you try Zegna's made to measure service at the Pavilion or Brioni at KLCC? The suits will arrive approximately 2 months later & in Brioni's case, you will have something similar to Pierce Brosnan's midnight blue tuxedo .

1. Budget around RM2k per suit
2. Wedding is end December but I will have to travel to KL as I am from E.Msia
3. Preferably a non fused suit but will have to see the price.
4. Not really that particular on features. Would want working cuffs but most importantly will be the cut/design.

Granoff will cost a bomb i heard.

I did drop by Zegna. Their MTM is 9k and above..there is one suit..their latest one..fabric no 1...suit alone cost RM18k
I am not willing to spend that much on suits since i seldom wear them.

I think I will try ALT for the grey suit and see how it goes. Any idea if he will have the mid grey fresco cloth you mentioned?

Tks.

I went to another job shop today.

It was full of shitty cloth. The worse worsteds I've seen. They are so poor: thin, anemic, but without the fineness to even begin to compensate for it. The prices are lower than in the other job shop, but these cloths are just not something you bring to a bespoke tailor.

I did however managed to find the thickest muslin ever there. It has even more body than the Plouchet, and is quite voluminous -- almost as thick as denim. But unlike denim, which is a twill, this is a Panama. The label says "double face muslin". I will have this put into collars.

I also bought a clothes brush. It was really expensive --20 Euros. Horsehair set into a pear wood handle. It is beautiful to look at and works very well. There was a cheaper version, also in pear wood, but it was without a handle. Like a shoe brush (but for specifically for clothes). I really like the version with the handle so bought it instead. The bristles are shorn short and are quite stiff.

This manufacturer also has some truly excellent shoe brushes at very realistic prices, but alas I already have all the shoe brushes a person needs in a lifetime.