QUOTE(beau @ Sep 25 2010, 07:56 PM)
Good stuff-I look forward to viewing pictures of your forthcoming commissions .
Muji is really a rip off outside Japan.
Added on September 25, 2010, 7:58 pmVBC is an entry level Italian fabric which should serve you well as an occasional wearer.
However the local tailor is ripping you off big time. It would be cheaper for you to buy the fabric & take it to another tailor
Would you know of any place to find this VBC fabric in KL? My time there will be limited so it would help me a great deal if you can point me to the places i should go.
Added on September 25, 2010, 8:01 pmThe suit makes your friend look like President Ahmadinejad of Iran. The suit seems to be beyond redemption.
Go to another tailor
Added on September 25, 2010, 8:02 pmOr better yet, let us have the name of the tailor so we can avoid the place or send our worse enemies there
You will have to buy them an air ticket to Sibu Sarawak
Added on September 27, 2010, 1:07 amQUOTE(kotmj @ Sep 26 2010, 04:10 AM)
The lapel treatment is ridiculous. Too bellied, and the gorge execution is so awful. Also, there is a technical problem with the lapel crease edge. It is rounded, almost like it is gaping open without even being provoked.
Your friend is in serious need of a haircut and a fat loss regime. The tailor tried to create a waist with imperfect success: it is the RTW sort of waisting -- mild, indistinct, tubular. Because of the fat in his mid-section, there is simply insufficient space in the waist for the suit to be comfortable. I wore my suit jacket all the time during a 16-hour journey. I watched countless movies in the thing, ate the magnificent food (I never suspected the food was this good in business class), and slept in it. It would have been uncomfortable if the jacket was too close to my waist.
There is zero back of armsyce drape.
The shoulders are like speed bumps. I mean, WTF, they look like the humps on camels. Any tailor who makes shoulders like these can be safely written off immediately with no recourse for pleas.
Some additional info on the side:
"Slim fit" stuff do not work. If you look at the suits that accomplished tailors themselves wear, they are really loose. But they are not shapeless. The shoulders are wide enough that the sleeves fall vertically down without touching your deltoids. There is a generous amount of drape in the chest and upper back area. These two factors make for a big upper body -- which makes it possible to nip it in the waist without making the jacket too close-fitting in the waist. Following the nip is a flaring of the skirt which creates the symmetrical hourglass silhouette. There is plenty of drape in the back of the armscye to facilitate movement of the arms. Armholes are high.
The opening of the quarters is as tasteless as AL's before his reformation.
Then comes the issue of workmanship. It is not clear what amount of handwork is in the jacket. But I have learnt to be pessimistic in this regard. The buttonholes are most probably machine sewn. Lapels are not padded. The lining may even be put in by machine. Buttons are plastic. Lining is polyester.
In essence, not much better than a Bangkok suit.
So does this mean the shoulder width is too tight? It should be let out a little to allow the sleeves to fall from the shoulder in an unbroken line all the way to the sleeve. Do you think the sleeves should be tapered some more.
The tailor did mention that the shoulder width is too tight but did not follow his advise.
Regarding the shoulder padding, i am not sure if there are various types of materials. His normal shoulder padding consisted of 5 layers and for this suit, it was reduced to 3 layers at clients request. The tailor mentioned that the thinning of the padding would cause this bump and some pulling of the fabric at the collar. I cannot imagine having 5 layers of padding..i think it will be too thick. Again, could there be different types of material which would lead to different effects?
For the lapels, any specific advise on how to make it better?
Another friend went there to make another suit yesterday and fitting should be in a few days time... (no choice.this is probably the "best tailor" in this small town). Maybe with your advise we can re-invent this tailor like what you did with AL?
So..I will take this opportunity to learn as much as I can before I make mine in KL.
This post has been edited by genesis826: Sep 27 2010, 01:07 AM