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 The suiting thread v2

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genesis826
post Sep 22 2010, 12:23 AM

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Hi all,
Am new to this forum but have been reading the threads on tailors and suits for the past few days.

I am looking for a wedding suit for my wedding in December and am thinking a grey suit with cream vest, cream cravat for the morning church ceremony. Similar to the grey suit in the pic but the vest would not be so high up.

For the dinner, am thinking of a black suit with either cream vest/cream cravat (as per morning session) , black vest/black cravat, silver vest/silver cravat, black vest/red cravat or just a cream bow tie.

Black suit to be similar with the photos (shiny effect).

Appreciate any comments.

Also, as I am not from KL but make frequent trips there, I am still thinking which tailor to use. From the forum, I understand ALT and Bespoked are the recommended ones. Another tailor recommended by a friend is Anthony Tay at Binwanis BSC.

I have actually met all 3 during my last trip to KL about a week ago. I feel Anthony from Binwanis is very approachable and proactive, etc. For ALT, he did not say very much when I met him. Furthermore, he may need a lot of technical instructions to get a good modern cut which I may be incompetent with. For Bespoked...good suits, nice shop..but somehow feel a little intimidated there.

Would appreciate any advise on which tailor i should go for.

Thanks.


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genesis826
post Sep 22 2010, 09:16 PM

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QUOTE(beau @ Sep 22 2010, 09:39 AM)
Do you plan to use your suits after your wedding ( work, functions etc )

Do you remember the white 3 piece suit that John T wore on "Saturday Night Fever" ? I recall attending a spate of weddings as a pre-teen where elder cousins wore  similar outfits for their nuptial rites. These old wedding photos now provide much mirth during family gatherings & events of such ilk.

If you don't wish to become fodder for humor 10 years down or feel embarrassed everytime your old classmates show your wedding pictures during a reunion, think "classic" & "less is more."

Although this reflects my personal taste, I would suggest the following:-

1. Mid / light Grey 2 piece in a light weight wool , single breasted with a plain pattern weave tie in silver paired with a white or sky blue pure cotton shirt , black Oxford lace ups . The fabric of the suit should be around 8 to 9 oz max with a Fresco weave. You'll be glad for something light weight to see you through the Church ( which presumably is not air conditioned ) , the tea reception as well as the other day festivities.

Ditch the waist coat if you don't wish to look like a gay flamenco dancer & suffer in the heat & humidity. 2.

2. Either a single breasted peak lapel dinner jacket in midnight blue ( tuxedo )-worn with a proper black silk bow tie  or a Navy Blue double breasted suit 6 button show 2 worn with a silver houndstooth tie paired again with a white cotton shirt with French cuffs & black polished Oxford shoes for the evening event. MIdnight blue is great as it appears black without the shine in artificial lighting.

No colored bow tie or band with black tie.

Remember:-
1. It's the bride's day to stand out, not the grooms and
2. Think Cary Grant & not John Travolta.
3. Less is more.
4. Don't become fodder for the next stand up comedian in your family a few years down the road!!
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Hi,
Very seldom to have a chance to wear suits. Maybe only 1-2 times a year.
Definitely no white suits for me.

For the mid/light grey suit you mentioned, is it something like in the photo? Or lighter.
I am not familiar with cloth. Fresco weave, do you have a photo of it? and any where to get it in KL? The church is fully air conditioned. Tea reception will be in air conditioned ball room as well.

Midnight blue such as the Brosnan photo? never considered midnight blue till i saw this photo.

Design wise I think more or less I have an idea.

Now is the tailor..which one would you recommend?

Have you tried or heard of Anthony from Binwanis? Any comments/feedback re this tailor?


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genesis826
post Sep 23 2010, 08:18 PM

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QUOTE(beau @ Sep 23 2010, 09:52 AM)
The mid grey is as depicted in the photo.
1. What is your budget?
2. How much time do you have before the wedding?
3. Would you prefer a non-fused fully canvassed suit?
4. How much features ( colored linings, working cuffs etc ) do you required on your suits?

It will be difficult to post a picture as fresco is a description of a weave.

Go to Binwani's ( the one on Tunku Abdul Rahman ), Euromoda & Jackal  to get some idea of what fabrics are available.

Aside from ALT & Bespooked ( no pun intended ) there's Granoff at The Gardens . Judging from your earlier requirements , Mansor of Granoff would enjoy having a go at your wedding outfits.

No experience with Anthony but Rashidi , a former tailor from Binwanis is supposed to be setting up in Bangsar.

I've not seen any samples of his work but some on the forum seem to be pleased with his efforts.

Here's a tip-go to all the tailors again & ask for samples of their work.

If you have money to blow why don't you try Zegna's made to measure service at the Pavilion or Brioni at KLCC? The suits will arrive approximately 2 months later & in Brioni's case, you will have something similar to Pierce Brosnan's midnight blue tuxedo .
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1. Budget around RM2k per suit
2. Wedding is end December but I will have to travel to KL as I am from E.Msia
3. Preferably a non fused suit but will have to see the price.
4. Not really that particular on features. Would want working cuffs but most importantly will be the cut/design.

Granoff will cost a bomb i heard.

I did drop by Zegna. Their MTM is 9k and above..there is one suit..their latest one..fabric no 1...suit alone cost RM18k
I am not willing to spend that much on suits since i seldom wear them.

I think I will try ALT for the grey suit and see how it goes. Any idea if he will have the mid grey fresco cloth you mentioned?

Tks.
genesis826
post Sep 25 2010, 12:13 AM

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Hi guys,
A friend just made a suit in one of our local tailor.
Please feel free to comment.

This post has been edited by genesis826: Sep 25 2010, 12:21 AM


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genesis826
post Sep 25 2010, 05:22 PM

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QUOTE(beau @ Sep 25 2010, 01:08 AM)
The Zegna No 1 fabric is a 15 Mil 15 reproduction of their original fabric. Not recommended for frequent wear & requires expert dry cleaning. Given your particular circumstances perhaps I would suggest the following:-

1. Go for classics which will allow you to wear the suit over a few years. This means a fully hand canvassed , non fused suit.
2. Do you travel to Singapore & are you able to travel at least 4 to 5 times for fittings? A good friend as well as someone on the forum has used a tailor there with some success. Singapore has less choices when it comes to fabrics but VBC an Italian textile is readily available & is sold at reasonable prices there.
3. Perhaps a VBC Super 120's in mid or charcoal grey for the day in a notch lapel single breasted 3 button roll 2 configuration followed with a peak lapel 2 button single breasted in Navy blue for the evening in a similar fabric. By getting that you may find more use for your suits & jacket as opposed to getting a tuxedo / dinner jacket.

ALT has Dugdales but I'm not sure if there are frescos in that book.


Added on September 25, 2010, 1:10 am

You should think of getting your suits from Anderson & Sheppard at Savile Row , London. They sew their labels in the inner pocket of their jackets so there is little chance of the label falling off!!


Added on September 25, 2010, 1:16 am

1. Shoulders a tad padded & too wide. Needs to be narrowed slightly with less padding.
2. Jacket seems too short & could do with some waist suppression to give it shape
3. Sleeves seem too wide , too much shirt cuff showing
4. Trouser length too long & trouser needs to be tapered.
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This local tailor is carrying VBC.
Charging RM2500 for 2 pc and extra rm300 for full canvass.


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genesis826
post Sep 25 2010, 06:27 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Sep 25 2010, 05:36 PM)
RM2.5K for a 2pc like that is ridiculous. Buy your own cloth and tell him you will pay RM600 for that talentless idiot to make it up (he will say yes). Tell him to take it or leave it. You can get a stupid cut like that in any alley in KL. My fully canvassed DB with a ton of handwork with fishtail trousers that went through two fittings costs several hundred ringgit less than 2K in total. I don't know WTF is wrong with you people.


Added on September 25, 2010, 5:43 pmYour friend, BTW, will not be able to move in his stupid suit.
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Any advise how to improve the cut?
His workmanship seems not too bad.
Just his design sense not up to date
genesis826
post Sep 26 2010, 11:23 PM

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QUOTE(beau @ Sep 25 2010, 07:56 PM)
Good stuff-I look forward to viewing pictures of your forthcoming commissions .

Muji is really a rip off outside Japan.


Added on September 25, 2010, 7:58 pm

VBC is an entry level Italian fabric which should serve you well as an occasional wearer.

However the local tailor is ripping you off big time.  It would be cheaper for you to buy the fabric & take it to another tailor

Would you know of any place to find this VBC fabric in KL? My time there will be limited so it would help me a great deal if you can point me to the places i should go.


Added on September 25, 2010, 8:01 pm

The suit makes your friend look like President Ahmadinejad of Iran. The suit seems to be beyond redemption.

Go to another tailor


Added on September 25, 2010, 8:02 pm

Or better yet, let us have the name of the tailor so we can avoid the place or send our worse enemies there

You will have to buy them an air ticket to Sibu Sarawak

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Added on September 27, 2010, 1:07 am
QUOTE(kotmj @ Sep 26 2010, 04:10 AM)
The lapel treatment is ridiculous. Too bellied, and the gorge execution is so awful. Also, there is a technical problem with the lapel crease edge. It is rounded, almost like it is gaping open without even being provoked.

Your friend is in serious need of a haircut and a fat loss regime. The tailor tried to create a waist with imperfect success: it is the RTW sort of waisting -- mild, indistinct, tubular. Because of the fat in his mid-section, there is simply insufficient space in the waist for the suit to be comfortable. I wore my suit jacket all the time during a 16-hour journey. I watched countless movies in the thing, ate the magnificent food (I never suspected the food was this good in business class), and slept in it. It would have been uncomfortable if the jacket was too close to my waist.

There is zero back of armsyce drape.

The shoulders are like speed bumps. I mean, WTF, they look like the humps on camels. Any tailor who makes shoulders like these can be safely written off immediately with no recourse for pleas.

Some additional info on the side:
"Slim fit" stuff do not work. If you look at the suits that accomplished tailors themselves wear, they are really loose. But they are not shapeless. The shoulders are wide enough that the sleeves fall vertically down without touching your deltoids. There is a generous amount of drape in the chest and upper back area. These two factors make for a big upper body -- which makes it possible to nip it in the waist without making the jacket too close-fitting in the waist. Following the nip is a flaring of the skirt which creates the symmetrical hourglass silhouette. There is plenty of drape in the back of the armscye to facilitate movement of the arms. Armholes are high.

The opening of the quarters is as tasteless as AL's before his reformation.

Then comes the issue of workmanship. It is not clear what amount of handwork is in the jacket. But I have learnt to be pessimistic in this regard. The buttonholes are most probably machine sewn. Lapels are not padded. The lining may even be put in by machine. Buttons are plastic. Lining is polyester.

In essence, not much better than a Bangkok suit.
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So does this mean the shoulder width is too tight? It should be let out a little to allow the sleeves to fall from the shoulder in an unbroken line all the way to the sleeve. Do you think the sleeves should be tapered some more.
The tailor did mention that the shoulder width is too tight but did not follow his advise.
Regarding the shoulder padding, i am not sure if there are various types of materials. His normal shoulder padding consisted of 5 layers and for this suit, it was reduced to 3 layers at clients request. The tailor mentioned that the thinning of the padding would cause this bump and some pulling of the fabric at the collar. I cannot imagine having 5 layers of padding..i think it will be too thick. Again, could there be different types of material which would lead to different effects?

For the lapels, any specific advise on how to make it better?

Another friend went there to make another suit yesterday and fitting should be in a few days time... (no choice.this is probably the "best tailor" in this small town). Maybe with your advise we can re-invent this tailor like what you did with AL?

So..I will take this opportunity to learn as much as I can before I make mine in KL.



This post has been edited by genesis826: Sep 27 2010, 01:07 AM

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