[quote=kotmj,Sep 12 2010, 01:51 AM]
I went to Oxfam #1 today.

The weekend or flea markets might yield some good finds.

Unfortunately our Bier loving friends are usually much taller or of the large bone persuasion ( & in many cases both ) so shopping for Asia size attire in both the RTW sales or pre owned market is challenging.

More luck in France or Italy where some of the men are built more diminutively .

Please post pictures of your DB especially close ups of the button holes etc when you receive the item.

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Added on September 12, 2010, 9:59 pm[quote=gshen,Sep 9 2010, 11:39 PM]
Oh yeah, i forgot that we were going to add 1/4" on each end of the shoulders. Don't like the rope shoulders, but thanks for the suggestion anyways. The current bit of cotton wadding (no shoulder padding at all) in the sleevehead is probably going to break down over time for an even softer look. Noice.

Yeah, I mentioned previously that they used unsold old cloth for their 'muslin' fittings. Check the selvedge and you might be surprised - the current stuff is Harrisons of Edinburgh S100s but in a weird color.

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Gshen,

Is your DB completed? Would appreciate some pictures especially close up shots of the finish if possible. I am thinking of a mid grey chalk stripe in a fabric around 300 to 320 gms in a DB

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Added on September 12, 2010, 10:01 pm[quote=kotmj,Sep 12 2010, 03:31 PM]
DHL faxed my company asking if they should deliver it. Apparently, it is normal to ask for confirmation from the recipient before delivering something that will be taxed (corporate stuff are taxed). But they were supposed to send it to my hotel. There was a mix up because my hotel is on the same street as my workplace, and I had both my company name as a c/o and then the hotel name as proper address.

It should arrive soon.

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Added on September 12, 2010, 4:20 pmThe moment I saw this shoulder I saw the light. A Steven Hitchcock.

It's soft, as you can see, but not unpadded.


But it has a clean angular line when uncompressed.


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His stripes are a tad too wide for my liking. One would be dubbed as a "wide boy" in City parlance.

This post has been edited by beau: Sep 12 2010, 10:01 PM

kotmj - Thanks. I know what you are saying - my shoulder muscles aren't so developed at the base of the neck, which results in the observed flat-ish line. I think Mr Hitchcock doesn't have this issue, so he can get away with minimal padding.

If I were to get any padding, I'd want to pad only the base of the neck to get a slight angular slope downwards. Also, i think the effect is more pronounced now because the collar isn't attached yet. The white canvas probably throws things off right now.

I don't know though, it is quite liberating to have nothing in there. So light, so free. I'll probably keep this jacket without pads and think about this change on my next commission.

beau - I have yet to collect the suit. Don't worry, pics will be up when I get hold of it.

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Added on September 13, 2010, 4:41 pmThis is what there is (or isn't) in the shoulders:



This post has been edited by gshen: Sep 13 2010, 04:41 PM

Gshen,

I agree & would leave it as it. The fabric is heavier than what is normally used locally and any additional padding would add more weight & increase the thickness of the garment. Given the fact that the said garment is going to be used as casual wear it might make an interesting change from the normal structured jacket.

p.s. Here's hoping you don't turn to the dark side & buy Armani !!

Thanks. The fabric weight at 10oz is fairly common at my tailor actually, given that a sizable proportion of the current (read:new) customers are coming from the interwebz and do not believe in paperweight Italian cloths. They have even gotten used to working with 15+oz tweeds...

Their standard canvas is fairly lightweight (but with good spring due to high % of hair), but I brought in my own canvas from RJW that is lighter this time, just to try it out. It does feel a bit lighter and softer, but I'll have to wait for the finished product to decide if it's worth that extra hassle and $$ ordering from RJW in future. FWIW, Iris' canvas costs more than RJW's product if you take shipping costs out of the equation, so they are not definitely not skimping on the hidden bits. I know that most tailors in Singapore buy their canvas from a big supplier of uniform fabrics.. costs like, nothing.

Oh, no worries. Unlike that chap who had the $$ to buy an Armani suit, I am a small-timer and can only afford cheap Azn bespoke!!

Opened the door to my room, and found a brown parcel on my bed.

I was right about how the jacket begets shape during the making up.

The buttonholes are made by someone else. They are better than GDT's.

The hand padding on the lapel underside is pretty high density and done reasonably neatly.

I would do this again.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Sep 13 2010, 11:55 PM

Post some pics!

BTW - just got a message on FB from Ambrosi.. they are coming to SG from 14-16 Oct WTF!

Spent the last few hours looking at myself in the mirror. Swapped out the horn buttons for gilt ones. Looks great with all that gold glinting, but I felt very self conscious when I was out shopping with it just now. People were looking at me, even though lots of people wear suits in this city. I might be reminding them of their militaristic past.

The DB looks best as a suit with horn buttons, my burgundy Stefano Ricci tie, and a white linen PS.

There is a ton of handwork in the jacket. The thing is very heavy; it says 1.5 kg on the parcel. The only problem is that the sleeves are very long and obscure the cuffs. But really it's no big deal. Every buttonhole was sewn by hand, even the holes that take the swappable buttons. They are done to a very high standard. The buttonholes on the front are done to a ridiculously high standard. All the glory of old Malayan/Singaporean tailoring is here.

The jacket DOES NOT look too big. It is just right, really. This is the way a jacket should fit. Again, it is not so much as a quarter inch too big anywhere. It is just right.

I am so very very very happy with this suit. I am glad I forked out the money for an FC like this, and equally glad I was man enough to go for a DB. Now I know what a DB is all about.

All ye who are weak of faith, let it be known that the DB silhouette is incredible.

I would like to take pics, but the camera my company loaned me has run out of battery. The charger is with the secretary of the MD.

I deliberately stay up this late to check out pictures of your DB and now you tell me the battery is flat. Damn you, kakmj.

Makes sense since they already visit Seoul & Japan. Any details on the trip? What are their costs likely to be?

FYI they were charging around USD$800 per pair ( SIN$1,000 /RM $2,400 ) for their New York trips .

My friend informs me that Lanvin is re-introducing their MTM service at the Hilton Singapore this weekend.

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Added on September 14, 2010, 10:36 amGet her to take your fit shots for you.

So AL got someone else to do the button holes / finishing instead of one of the galley slaves?

This post has been edited by beau: Sep 14 2010, 10:36 AM

I've no idea what Ambrosi is charging these days.. but too rich for my blood. If you decide to go for it, I'm very keen to see the results!

I don't see how Lanvin (or any big companies') MTM program can tempt anyone who has tasted the fruit of bespoke. From what I've been told, the guys measuring you for MTM have only been through a short crash course on tailoring. I would not trust them with a measuring tape, much less when it comes to fitting me...

Been there , done that , got burnt-Expensive Lessons learnt ( Armani Hand Made to Measure, Zegna Couture etc )

In any event it will never be as good as bespoke given the fact that there's no fitting , no flexibility as to style etc

It's great for those who like a particular style & want to have something slightly unique.

Lanvin was one of the great bespoke houses in its hey days & it's bespoke shirts were allegedly better than Charvet.

It's probably a pale shadow of it's former self .

Please let me have the details on Ambrosi's visit i.e. how to fix appointment etc.

If he is charging the same as New York, it would be in the same range as the high end designer brands.

Once a well fitting copy is made it will be up to ALT to duplicate at a much lower costs. With Ambrosi, it's the handwork & the internal innards that make the trousers special

Best to find his thread on SF and ask him to PM or email you, as his profile is set such that you cant PM him.

He's also on Facebook.

I am very impressed with you guys. Anyways, I am considering to get a suit tailor made for a dinner that makes me look like Mr Bond minus the height - but im quite confused with the American, Italian and English suits differences. What would you guys recommend me I am at 1.72cm Tanned Medium Size Old Bollock =p

This post has been edited by kopking10: Sep 14 2010, 03:32 PM

I assume you do not require the suit in a hurry & would prefer to invest in something classical, good quality & long lasting that is versatile in order to maximize it's utility ? ( work & pleasure ? )
It would also help if you could share your weight & physical build ( stocky, slim, generously built etc )

Would you have any budgetary constraint?

The suit differences referred to are generalizations based on pre-conceived designs of what an American,English or Italian suits looks like.

1. American suits- Generally cut loose with sloping natural shoulders, a straight drop "sack " look Google Brooks Brother's Sack Suit for examples what is generally termed as an American suit.
2. What is generally regarded as English is the Savile Row look where the jackets are made with a distinct waist.
3. The Italians on the other hand generally cut their jackets closer to the body.

The above distinctions, if they do exist should not concern you should you decide to move towards bespoke suits. Your focus should be on having something made to suit your needs.

The right suit should amplify your physical attributes & diminish your short comings ( please excuse the pun )

I would therefore recommend a single breasted navy suit which will see you through a variety of circumstances.

I am very impressed with your seemingly unlimited patience, Mr Beau.

kopking10 - the best advice one could give you is to take 1 month (at least) and spend copious amounts of time on the men's clothing section of styleforum, and absorb as much as you can.

Do not approach a tailor until you have a clear idea of what you want to achieve. Any attempts to get a decent garment before that will result in a less than satisfactory garment down the road.

God bless your wallet!

Based upon the information you gave about your physique, I would recommend you go for the silhoutte most representative of the Genovese, particularly that from the 11th arrondissement of the town.

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Added on September 14, 2010, 11:56 pmIt seems to be a mix. The front two buttonholes are every bit the equal of jefferyd's if I dare say so, while the cuffs buttonholes do have the signature of AL's usual make, but a grade or two better.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Sep 14 2010, 11:56 PM

That is a bold claim. PICS!

Would definitely go for a feature like this if I ever get a tweed jacket made. Would keep the neck warm.

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Added on September 16, 2010, 1:43 amAre all Singaporeans this impatient? There may be pics next week.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Sep 16 2010, 01:43 AM

Interestion variation to a hacking jacket. Might be interesting to have it commissioned in Corduroy or Moleskins instead of the traditional tweed