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 The suiting thread v2

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beau
post Sep 27 2010, 08:35 PM

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QUOTE(bloke1 @ Sep 27 2010, 07:00 PM)
My new pants would be using a reverse coil zipper.
*
What's that?


Added on September 27, 2010, 8:36 pm
QUOTE(hanhanhan @ Sep 27 2010, 05:01 PM)
user posted image

any idea where to get shirt with collar like this..
*
Didn't know they were making "Godfather Part 4"


Added on September 27, 2010, 8:38 pm
QUOTE(deriku @ Sep 26 2010, 06:33 PM)
Can the sifus here advise what to look out for during the first suit fitting? Will be going for mine in the next few days.
*
Why don't you take some pictures of the fitting for us to respond to? Unless we know what you had bespoken it would be difficult for us to advise


Added on September 27, 2010, 8:40 pm
QUOTE(genesis826 @ Sep 26 2010, 11:23 PM)

Added on September 27, 2010, 1:07 am

So does this mean the shoulder width is too tight? It should be let out a little to allow the sleeves to fall from the shoulder in an unbroken line all the way to the sleeve. Do you think the sleeves should be tapered some more.
The tailor did mention that the shoulder width is too tight but did not follow his advise.
Regarding the shoulder padding, i am not sure if there are various types of materials. His normal shoulder padding consisted of 5 layers and for this suit, it was reduced to 3 layers at clients request. The tailor mentioned that the thinning of the padding would cause this bump and some pulling of the fabric at the collar. I cannot imagine having 5 layers of padding..i think it will be too thick. Again, could there be different types of material which would lead to different effects?

For the lapels, any specific advise on how to make it better?

Another friend went there to make another suit yesterday and fitting should be in a few days time... (no choice.this is probably the "best tailor" in this small town). Maybe with your advise we can re-invent this tailor like what you did with AL?

So..I will take this opportunity to learn as much as I can before I make mine in KL.
*
I think all the information & tips you need are contained in the threads-The suit in the pictures is beyond redemption

This post has been edited by beau: Sep 27 2010, 08:40 PM
bloke1
post Sep 27 2010, 08:41 PM

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QUOTE(beau @ Sep 27 2010, 08:35 PM)
What's that?
user posted image
Just imagine the inside coil of your zipper is on the outside. It makes for a less bulky fly.
Cheenoo
post Sep 27 2010, 09:32 PM

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Dear lokechai, zip with caution!
kotmj
post Sep 28 2010, 02:10 AM

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Penis guillotine.


Added on September 28, 2010, 2:21 am
QUOTE(genesis826 @ Sep 26 2010, 11:23 PM)

Added on September 27, 2010, 1:07 am

So does this mean the shoulder width is too tight? It should be let out a little to allow the sleeves to fall from the shoulder in an unbroken line all the way to the sleeve. Do you think the sleeves should be tapered some more.
The tailor did mention that the shoulder width is too tight but did not follow his advise.
Regarding the shoulder padding, i am not sure if there are various types of materials. His normal shoulder padding consisted of 5 layers and for this suit, it was reduced to 3 layers at clients request. The tailor mentioned that the thinning of the padding would cause this bump and some pulling of the fabric at the collar. I cannot imagine having 5 layers of padding..i think it will be too thick. Again, could there be different types of material which would lead to different effects?

For the lapels, any specific advise on how to make it better?

Another friend went there to make another suit yesterday and fitting should be in a few days time... (no choice.this is probably the "best tailor" in this small town). Maybe with your advise we can re-invent this tailor like what you did with AL?

So..I will take this opportunity to learn as much as I can before I make mine in KL.
*
Too much needs to be done to bring this tailor up to scratch. Life is too short for that.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Sep 28 2010, 02:21 AM
beau
post Sep 28 2010, 08:50 AM

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QUOTE(Cheenoo @ Sep 27 2010, 09:32 PM)
Dear lokechai, zip with caution!
*
Can't go commando


Added on September 28, 2010, 8:51 am
QUOTE(kotmj @ Sep 28 2010, 02:10 AM)
Penis guillotine.


Added on September 28, 2010, 2:21 am
Too much needs to be done to bring this tailor up to scratch. Life is too short for that.
*
+1

This post has been edited by beau: Sep 28 2010, 08:51 AM
Cheenoo
post Sep 29 2010, 12:22 AM

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Man, if I ever make a DB, it must fit like this. So sweet..

user posted image

edit:pic belongs to luckystrike of SF

This post has been edited by Cheenoo: Sep 29 2010, 12:23 AM
kotmj
post Sep 29 2010, 01:33 AM

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My DB fits like that.

Man, I discovered a fantastic store. Imagine a shop that has no delusions about out being able to specify products. A shop that merely looks at what is being made by a variety of companies around the world. And which then sets about to buy the best.

The best here does not mean the most luxurious (Hermes) or branded (Dunhill, EZ). The best in the sense of unparalled quality and design values at realistic prices. Stuff that I, too, would buy.

And to do this for almost every category of product from kichenware to bicycles to stationary to clothes and footwear.

The thickest suit hangers around. Shoe horns made of real buffalo horns. Fully-canvassed tweed and linen jackets by Regent. Raincoats by Macintosh. Burgol shoe waxes. Albert Thurston braces. Mauviel copper pans. De Buyer iron pans. Japanese handmade saws. Handmade genuine French soaps.

I'm going there again tomorrow to buy someone a bar of soap.
attacusatlas
post Sep 29 2010, 10:24 AM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Sep 29 2010, 01:33 AM)
My DB fits like that.

Man, I discovered a fantastic store. Imagine a shop that has no delusions about out being able to specify products. A shop that merely looks at what is being made by a variety of companies around the world. And which then sets about to buy the best.

The best here does not mean the most luxurious (Hermes) or branded (Dunhill, EZ). The best in the sense of unparalled quality and design values at realistic prices. Stuff that I, too, would buy.

And to do this for almost every category of product from kichenware to bicycles to stationary to clothes and footwear.

The thickest suit hangers around. Shoe horns made of real buffalo horns. Fully-canvassed tweed and linen jackets by Regent. Raincoats by Macintosh. Burgol shoe waxes. Albert Thurston braces. Mauviel copper pans. De Buyer iron pans. Japanese handmade saws. Handmade genuine French soaps.

I'm going there again tomorrow to buy someone a bar of soap.
*
sounds like you are hitting a jackpot.

i want this so badly:
Shoe horns made of real buffalo horns
beau
post Sep 29 2010, 05:25 PM

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QUOTE(attacusatlas @ Sep 29 2010, 10:24 AM)
sounds like you are hitting a jackpot.

i want this so badly:
Shoe horns made of real buffalo horns
*
Expensive
attacusatlas
post Sep 29 2010, 06:25 PM

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that was why i said i need it so badly.
beau
post Sep 29 2010, 07:17 PM

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QUOTE(attacusatlas @ Sep 29 2010, 06:25 PM)
that was why i said i need it so badly.
*
Get someone to make one for you out of polished teak until you buy one abroad
kotmj
post Sep 30 2010, 03:16 AM

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Yeah shoe horns of real buffalo horns are very expensive. I cannot recall how much they cost, but it was too much for me to justify buying one. One horn only yields one shoe horn because the shoe horn is cut from the tip of the horn.

I was there just now and ended up buying a few bars of artisanal soaps as gifts. I bought French lavender stuff for the girls but for myself I bought a chunk of soap that looked like it was cut from a big bar then roughly stamped with a mediaval-looking insignia. It's made of olive oil with 16% bay leaf oil (WTF?) and comes from an old soap-making town in Syria.

I saw a white linen shirt there. The buttons were MOPs and very, very different from normal buttons. It had this complex and very appealing shape. Each and every one was a star.

And each one was hand sewn with a proper shank. Unbelievable in a RTW product. This shop has taste.

Then there was this ridiculously heavy jacket of a blackish wool. It had the colour of horseshit mixed with a bit of straw. I looked inside and a label announced "Fox Flannels. Made in England." The underside of the gorge had each a button. Inside the jacket was two buttons which secured a kidney-shaped piece of wool. You flipped the collar and lapels to cover your chest and fastened them with this kidney-shaped piece of wool.

I went to job shop #1 and bought brown Cupro and light Cupro and went to an upscdale retailer and bought brown Guetermann silk thread and thick (#40) mercerised cotton thread for sewing on shirt buttons. I also bought a bunch of other stuff but they are not even remotely related to clothes.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Sep 30 2010, 03:50 AM
beau
post Sep 30 2010, 02:43 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Sep 30 2010, 03:16 AM)
Yeah shoe horns of real buffalo horns are very expensive. I cannot recall how much they cost, but it was too much for me to justify buying one. One horn only yields one shoe horn because the shoe horn is cut from the tip of the horn.

I was there just now and ended up buying a few bars of artisanal soaps as gifts. I bought French lavender stuff for the girls but for myself I bought a chunk of soap that looked like it was cut from a big bar then roughly stamped with a mediaval-looking insignia. It's made of olive oil with 16% bay leaf oil (WTF?) and comes from an old soap-making town in Syria.

I saw a white linen shirt there. The buttons were MOPs and very, very different from normal buttons. It had this complex and very appealing shape. Each and every one was a star.

And each one was hand sewn with a proper shank. Unbelievable in a RTW product. This shop has taste.

Then there was this ridiculously heavy jacket of a blackish wool. It had the colour of horseshit mixed with a bit of straw. I looked inside and a label announced "Fox Flannels. Made in England." The underside of the gorge had each a button. Inside the jacket was two buttons which secured a kidney-shaped piece of wool. You flipped the collar and lapels to cover your chest and fastened them with this kidney-shaped piece of wool.

I went to job shop #1 and bought brown Cupro and light Cupro and went to an upscdale retailer and bought brown Guetermann silk thread and thick (#40) mercerised cotton thread for sewing on shirt buttons. I also bought a bunch of other stuff but they are not even remotely related to clothes.
*
Horn can be fragile.

Fox Brothers reputedly makes the best flannels, far too warm for our climate but wonderful for winter use & lovely drape .Sounds like an interesting variation to a hacking jacket.
kotmj
post Oct 1 2010, 03:47 AM

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I live in fear of the day I might have to come here again in January/February. I have all sorts of nightmares of cycling 30 minutes to some stupid off-campus lecture hall at 6:30 a.m. with mountains of snow everywhere at -20 degrees Celcius.

Hence the overcoat project in the pipeline. And the tweed jacket project for which I know exactly what sort of tweed (brown herringbone) and for which I've bought the lining (brown Cupro) and buttonhole thread. But these are truly expensive projects and lets hope they won't be necessary.


Added on October 1, 2010, 3:58 amBTW I felt fresco for the first time yesterday at the job shop. It says FRESCO MADE IN ENGLAND on the selvedge, but no brand. I assume it was made by Minnis who I believe has the rights to the name Fresco.

It certainly was very sheer. But it was rough like coarse sandpaper. It's going to be tough dropping a few grands on a suit made of what amounts to sackcloth.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Oct 1 2010, 03:58 AM
beau
post Oct 1 2010, 09:31 AM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Oct 1 2010, 03:47 AM)
I live in fear of the day I might have to come here again in January/February. I have all sorts of nightmares of cycling 30 minutes to some stupid off-campus lecture hall at 6:30 a.m. with mountains of snow everywhere at -20 degrees Celcius.

Hence the overcoat project in the pipeline. And the tweed jacket project for which I know exactly what sort of tweed (brown herringbone) and for which I've bought the lining (brown Cupro) and buttonhole thread. But these are truly expensive projects and lets hope they won't be necessary.


Added on October 1, 2010, 3:58 amBTW I felt fresco for the first time yesterday at the job shop. It says FRESCO MADE IN ENGLAND on the selvedge, but no brand. I assume it was made by Minnis who I believe has the rights to the name Fresco.

It certainly was very sheer. But it was rough like coarse sandpaper. It's going to be tough dropping a few grands on a suit made of what amounts to sackcloth.
*
Winter can be wet & cold so I usually make do with a trench coat. The plus point is the rains are not torrential in the
Fatherland as compared to home.

If you can get your hands on any Loro Piana "Storm System" fabrics whilst you are there , I would highly recommended it. The fabric has water repellent qualities & wears well as compared to cashmere.

I generally layer & make do with a rain coat/Barbour or trench. The trench/rain coat is much lighter to carry as compared to an over coat .

Frescos are now used as a generic term to describe a particular weave or type of fabric. Like most British fabrics they tend to wear well & soften with age, a tough sell for today's society which is bent on instant gratification . The other benefit of some Frescos is the cloth's ability to resist creasing.

Check for the "R" symbol next to the name Fresco. If there is one, it probably is a Minnis
SUSLiLFreaK
post Oct 1 2010, 02:09 PM

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may i know what event is appropriate for brighter color velvet sport coats

saw donnie yen in legend of chen zhen i kinda like his velvet sport coats..

is it casual? wont it be too much to make it as sport coat? thanks

This post has been edited by LiLFreaK: Oct 1 2010, 02:10 PM
beau
post Oct 2 2010, 12:18 AM

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QUOTE(LiLFreaK @ Oct 1 2010, 02:09 PM)
may  i know what event is appropriate for brighter color velvet sport coats

saw donnie yen in legend of chen zhen i kinda like his velvet sport coats..

is it casual? wont it be too much to make it as sport coat? thanks
*
In view of your persistent obsession with celebrities , perhaps you should consider having Tom Ford tailor you a purple Victorian style frock similar to the one worn by Prince in "Purple Rain" . You'll really stand out given the similarity in both your physiques & is sufficiently flexible to cover all dress codes , casual & formal.
kotmj
post Oct 2 2010, 01:28 AM

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There is currently a major cloth f***fest going on at SF.

http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=199490


Added on October 2, 2010, 4:56 amI've been wearing FCDB daily since the day I received it 3 weeks ago. It works very well. I have observed people taking off their synthetic Jack Wolfskin jackets when they sit down, especially when eating. I have never felt that necessary with a suit because there is little excess fabric to encumber motion. A tailored jacket is the best jacket out there to keep one warm. All these synthetic Jack Wolfkin stuff represent a deculturization of society. They are also absurdly expensive.

FCDB I always wear as an odd jacket. Even though the trousers are most comfortable, wearing a navy 2 pc is simply overkill most of the time. To further casualize it, I wear a gaudy ascot instead of a necktie. Brown shoes instead of black.

Except today. I actually wore it as a suit today. I was to meet with a most scurrilous duo in their 40s who work in HQ. One was a psychologist. They saw themselves as makers of barons. Their job was to make expats out of innocent employees by sending them out into the wide world.

I dressed like it was a job interview (even though I have long been hired), which is to say I pulled out all the plugs. Woolen navy repp tie (perfect for the season). Pink stripe shirt (the only fresh shirt I had). FCDB as a suit. White linen PS. Black captoe oxfords. It's not often I get to dress like this.

The conversation went on for almost 2 hours, and towards the end, when they have relaxed, one of them remarked, "When I started working I thought I made a lot of money. Compared to being a student it was a ransom they were paying me each month. Until I went out to shop in the city. I never suspected suits could be so expensive. Or good shoes for that matter." When he was saying "suits" his eyes wandered between my lapels. When he was saying "good shoes", his eyes glanced down at mine. Hmmm. Was he trying to hint at something?


Added on October 2, 2010, 5:05 amImagine going to a convention or something where everybody is dressed in black, charcoal or navy. And then you see this guy:

user posted image

What a breath of fresh air!

This post has been edited by kotmj: Oct 2 2010, 05:05 AM
Cheenoo
post Oct 2 2010, 03:33 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Oct 2 2010, 01:28 AM)
There is currently a major cloth f***fest going on at SF.

http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=199490
*
Did u get anything?
netmatrix
post Oct 2 2010, 07:22 PM

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QUOTE
The conversation went on for almost 2 hours, and towards the end, when they have relaxed, one of them remarked, "When I started working I thought I made a lot of money. Compared to being a student it was a ransom they were paying me each month. Until I went out to shop in the city. I never suspected suits could be so expensive. Or good shoes for that matter." When he was saying "suits" his eyes wandered between my lapels. When he was saying "good shoes", his eyes glanced down at mine. Hmmm. Was he trying to hint at something?


U better be lying low buddy. hahaha

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