The convention is to line jacket sleeves differently from the body with striped lining.

This post has been edited by bloke1: Sep 8 2010, 08:44 PM

Changes:
1. More room in arms
2. Fix shoulder drop
3. Adjust sleeve pitch
4. More room in upper back
5. Lengthen left sleeve

Not certain if I want to add a little bit to the length.. we'll see!

Cloth is grrrrrrrrrr8 though.

This post has been edited by gshen: Sep 9 2010, 11:20 PM

Not bad. The jacket length looks fine.

I think the shoulders appear to be slightly narrow & may benefit from a slight widening. Don't know if you wish to consider having a rope shoulder as it might make the jacket look interesting .

BTW my friend went for his first muslin fitting yesterday. He was pleasantly surprise to find the fitting conducted on an actual piece of cloth !! He was also informed that the cloth will then be used as a basis for his pattern and altered accordingly unless he decides to make a double breasted jacket etc. He was also informed that this fitting process will continue until the fit is perfected . Once the pattern is finalized, they will then do a proper baste fitting based on the material requested.

This departs from the usual practice on the Row and elsewhere. Muslin fittings are usually conducted ( with muslin cloth ) if a client orders a very expensive material & the cutter , in order to minimize any mistakes in the cutting process will conduct such fittings.

Think I will try to drop in on his next fitting if time permits.

Not many tailors do things the old school way these days.

Oh yeah, i forgot that we were going to add 1/4" on each end of the shoulders. Don't like the rope shoulders, but thanks for the suggestion anyways. The current bit of cotton wadding (no shoulder padding at all) in the sleevehead is probably going to break down over time for an even softer look. Noice.

Yeah, I mentioned previously that they used unsold old cloth for their 'muslin' fittings. Check the selvedge and you might be surprised - the current stuff is Harrisons of Edinburgh S100s but in a weird color.

What's up with the buttoning point? Is that a single button jacket?

Yup, 1B. Pinned in place now, and it should be where the small pinhead is, if you can make it out.

Sorry gshen, I'll let my colleagues here critique the suit, I do not have the presence of mind to do such a thing right now and also a lack of battery because I forgot to bring a socket adapter along.

But I have a pic:

It looks gurrrrrd. You might want to let out the waist a tad but probably it's just the cloth in action.

How do you supposed to call waist suppression in Mandarin? We call it 'zha yiu'(grab waist) here.

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Added on September 10, 2010, 12:50 amAiyer, that ascot so gaudy wan. You must have bought it from the Middle East.

This post has been edited by bloke1: Sep 10 2010, 12:54 AM

Thanks Mr. Loke. No tightness whatsoever in the waist, so no issues for me.

LOL - exactly the same term used here, but in Mandarin = 'zah yao' .

kotmj - is that batik? I suddenly feel like currywurst.

Looks like a very nice casual jacket coming on.
1. Will it have notch or peak lapels
2. Straight or slanted pockets?

Notch lapels, 1B, hacking+ticket pockets, side vents! Quarter lined too.

Under the circumstances I would suggest moving the button slightly above the present position. You can see samples of this from the Huntsman which usually come with a higher button stance ,very suppressed waist and rope shoulders for a very distinctive house silhouette.

Nothing against the English, but I am after something softer and more casual actually.

Your suggestion would work well with a harder cloth and stiffer canvas, but as it is my fabric and canvas are both quite fluid. Makes for a 'easier' jacket to wear IMO.

Add more width to the lower back. Let the cloth do a more vertical drop instead of curving with the small of your back.

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Added on September 11, 2010, 2:46 amAt wurk




After wurk






I'm seriously considering having an overcoat made in case the fan cheongs at my company send me here in January/February (depths of winter)




Canali. Notice the lapels.

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Added on September 11, 2010, 2:59 amYesterday. Not really a proper attire, just a random shot showing that I do not always dress to a T.


This post has been edited by kotmj: Sep 11 2010, 03:16 AM

I struggle to see how a vertical drop (no shape?) is desirable - are you saying this from a technically correct or aesthetic POV?

Your first suit had a vertical drop. I think it looks better this way.

Holy mother of god!

I went to Oxfam #1 today.


Nothing there for me. Two of the tweeds are from Burberry, made for an upscale local men's outfitter. Fused, not even an ounce of handwork in it. Burberry is shit. I doubt I'll ever find anything that would fit me. I'll just get AL to make me a tweed jacket if I ever need one.

I did find a Regent suit here. Fully canvassed. But too big for me.

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Added on September 12, 2010, 2:41 am

What I'm going to say is prob. blasphemy, but may I suggest you consider a tad of shoulder padding? A properly articulated shoulder has a clean line that gives angularity and symmetry to your shoulders.

I know, I know. I'm not suggesting you go for padding Singaporean-style. Just the right amount of shoulder padding can be inoffensive and give you more Atlas-like shoulders.

It would also allow you to extend your shoulder to cover your deltoids, allowing the sleeveheads to fall vertically down.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Sep 12 2010, 02:42 AM

Hey where's your FC DB? Lost in mail?

DHL faxed my company asking if they should deliver it. Apparently, it is normal to ask for confirmation from the recipient before delivering something that will be taxed (corporate stuff are taxed). But they were supposed to send it to my hotel. There was a mix up because my hotel is on the same street as my workplace, and I had both my company name as a c/o and then the hotel name as proper address.

It should arrive soon.

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Added on September 12, 2010, 4:20 pmThe moment I saw this shoulder I saw the light. A Steven Hitchcock.

It's soft, as you can see, but not unpadded.


But it has a clean angular line when uncompressed.


This post has been edited by kotmj: Sep 12 2010, 04:26 PM