Advice to Vorador
If you're new to this, dont start with your PG, it'll be wasting your money..
Try everything on a HG kit. Practice and get the feel of everything.
Learn the fundamentals and once you are confident then only go to PG. PG is not easy as it has many parts.
Just my 2 cents

Tuv bro, if you actually read around, you will find names like icw and tkting used quite often here.

Pm rayloke if you wanna know more about icw
Pm tkting if you wanna know more about his stock. Alternatively, try mgs2u.com

i see. you can also always look at xl shop or gamer's corner. why go acrylic tho? afaik, only tamiya's acrylics are widely available. if you go lacquer, eg mr color/gaia its more widely available.

can advise me where is this XL Shop or Gamer's corner? i am in PJ.

i went to this game workshop in midvalley. they sell but too damn expensive RM 14.00 for one very small bottle.

Well,iinm, the specs are due to some silver being added into the blue. What you're seeing there are most likely silver particles from the paint. Hope it's helpful.

not to mention that "metallic" industrial paint mostly has those dots. lol.

Someone did a chrome spoon test long time back, just wanna know the exact steps in making it chrome.

Do we spray gloss black -> metallic silver -> top gloss coat?
Which stage do we apply the tamiya compound & finishing compound (before or after final top gloss coat? Do we need to spray a gloss coat after the gloss black?

IF i'm not wrong, that's cos industrial paints have relatively bigger particles than your hobby paint. therefore, we see 'specs' of silver on the painted product. sometimes it looks nice (like the re-zel up there) and sometimes, it looks hideous. 

Surfacer --> Gloss Black --> top coat--> dry (2~3days)-->wet sand with high grit sand paper (2000 n above preferably) --> Compound (2~3times with different grit)--> (Repeat the top coat, dry, sand process, until satisfy)--> Alclad II Chrome Silver --> DONE (Remember, no top coat)
Option 3: (haven't know n seen any person succeed on this yet)

Surfacer --> Gloss Black --> top coat --> wet sand with high grit sand paper (2000 n above preferably) --> Compound (2~3times with different grit) --> (Repeat the top coat, dry, sand process, until satisfy)-->  Gunze's Super metallic --> wet sand + Compound (if any imperfection) --> Gunze's Super metallic Chrome Silver --> DONE (Remember, no top coat)

May I know why only option 2 need to dry 2-3days for top coat?

Why do we need so many layers of top coat before we put on the chrome? Won't the 1st sand/compound work be smooth enough?
- sorry, being lazy.... basically any top coat  if one needs to wet sand n compound, is always advisable to let the paint fully cure n dry.



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Why for Gunze Metallic we need to wet sand the metallic, won't it remove the shine? Or applies if it's not good in order to reapply the top paint?
- basically, our air is dirty. Hence there's almost impossible to create a 100% perfect spray layer condition. That's the reason why sanding n compounding is almost necessary. Even for real car paint spraying.

The wet sand n compound part is a very delicate process. need to remove any tiny dust trapped by the paint. But one cannot compound or sand too much. Once over do it, the shine will lost.



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Why are top coats not required for finishing? Won't it get scratched easily without top coat?
- Yes, it will be scratched easily. Unfortunately for metalizer paint or chrome powder, even aclad chrome or super metallic chrome paint; the particale of the paint is either weak or unstable.

for metalizer, the paint molecule is unstable, so when u rub/buff onto them, the paint molecule rearrange themselves and result in a chrome like finishing visually.

Even for Aclad chrome or SM chrome, the molecule tends to "float" on top of the bottom paint; means it's not as stable as paint that "grabs" on to the surface. As a result of this unstable condition, it presents a chrome like visual.

Of course there r people coat or spray transparent paint on top of aclad  chrome or SM (super metallic) Chrome. However to me it defeats the purpose of using these paint. Because once u apply anything on top, although u ll still get a metallic silver effect, basically u will lose the mirror like chrome effect, which is the main purpose of using the expensive Aclad Chrome.

So for kits that r done with chrome finish, spray the kit  seperately, adjust the inner frame more or less to the final pose u want, then only assemble. After assembly, only do minor adjustment to the pose. Definitely no more touching or playing with it after that.



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Also is there any tips to use air gun to prevent "fur" like paint particles? It depends on gun quality, or paint mixture?
- "fur"? u means something like spider web? mainly due to mixture ratio