Here's what to do and what not do for nub mark removal : http://www.forum.zerogunz.com/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=7926

Use enamel paint.

First as i said, oil base tends to flow thru lines/areas fluently. Second, enamel paint dries slower: at least 20 minutes where u still can wipe off easily with a bit of enamel thinner. Lacquer dry too fast. if u wipe immediately, u will wipe away the panel line. if u wipe later, it's very hard to wipe with small amount of thinner. If u put more thinner, again it will affect the paint in the panel again.

if u want to "remove"/"clean" nubs, u sand them away.

If u put paint on them, u r merely trying to hide it. And how well it could be hidden, well, our eyes are too good for that.

thanx.. quite useful..

---

Added on July 31, 2011, 9:29 pmwhat should i do after i sand it? can i start paint it?

This post has been edited by akoxix: Jul 31 2011, 09:29 PM

yes, after u sand, prime it. after priming with primer/surfacer, all the parts will become grey in color. With this tone of grey, now it's very easy for u to check whether there's still any visible scratches, especially those due to sanding.

If there were, do some corrective action like putty n sand again. If there wasn't any visible scratches, then u can start painting. One of the most challenging yet rewarding process in modeling

guys, is this how i suppose to apply my water-slide decals?
flat topcoat > decal > flat topcoat again

am i doing it rite? any tips if i'm wrong with it?

Well, if I'm not mistaken, should be gloss topcoat, decal then apply another topcoat. The gloss top coat is to provide a smooth surface to make it easier to position the water-slide decals, reduce silvering etc. Correct me if I am wrong

well, using Mr. Mark Softer and Mr Mark Setter can help waterslide decal stick properly
there is no need to apply flat coat first

This post has been edited by nazrul90: Aug 2 2011, 02:34 AM

anyone know what is the blue color for gundam MK II titan ver.? and also the inner frame color, my grey gundam marker look like silver color and doesn't match the grey color of the inner frame

thanx.. now, i'm ready.. haha.. thanx again

what type of super glue should i use?
before this i used the elephant brand(?) and it was horrible.
can only use once cuz the glue dried inside the nozzel

i recommend use cement cause it stick better than normal glue..
but take long time to make plastic stick together.. it have less white stain too

can get at hobby shop for only RM15

This post has been edited by nazrul90: Aug 2 2011, 03:50 PM

ok, ray, you can correct me if i'm wrong, but this is what i think why people gloss coat instead of flat then decal.

as far as i know, a surface is viewed as matte or flat cos the surface is rough at a very micro scale. that way, then the light reflects, less light is reflected thus it is matte. gloss on the other hand has a smooth surface. like so (top is matte, bottom is gloss)


that's why when placing decal, a matte surface has a higher chance of silvering cos the decal won't adhere 100% to a flat surface. this is also a reason why people gloss coat first before doing enamel wash, as there is a chance that the paint might get stuck in the tiny pores on a flat coat.

hope my explanation is accurate. otherwise i'd have looked like a fool with diagram and all

there is a way to make sure it doesn't block the nozzle

my way is like this

then you apply the glue, you press against the body, after you finish apply, you press at the side of the body so that the glue that stay at the nozzle will return back

then you quickly that out the nozzle, get a tissue prepare as thing might get really messy here, after taken out the nozzle then wipe both the nozzle "mouth" and the super glue "mouth" until it clean (some tissue might stick to the body, if that's the case, soak in water and rub with your hand)


one thing i dont like about the plastic cement is the smell of it

my plastic cement doesn't seem to be better than super glue, it dry slow even after i left for for few days it doesn't stick nicely, maybe my way of apply it is wrong?

but plastic cement is more easy to handle, that's for sure

yes, you are right

IMO, some gundam surface is glossy shine (like my MK II and force impulse), so i dont think those surface will need to apply top coat before sticking the decal

Guys, any experience with Liquid masking ?

i just watched some of the tutorials from youtube regarding liquid masking and they seemed pretty easy but all of them are based on RC cars. Can they be apply on Gundam as well ?

MGS2U or TkTing is selling 2 types of MR Hobby liquid masking M-133 Mr.MASKING SOL R and M-132 Mr.MASKING SOL neo, what is their differences ?

any cheaper alternative to liquid masking other than cheapo masking tape because it is really a hassle for me to mask small areas with tapes

Thx u in advance

This post has been edited by kumanosuke: Aug 2 2011, 05:16 PM

thanks
thanks will probably try it later

try put cement on both side...
slowly press the part together.. and wait about 12-24 hours to dry and then you done..
you can sand the excess cement after it dry

i dont have problem yet while cement the part...

This post has been edited by nazrul90: Aug 2 2011, 07:02 PM

Yes!!! Have a great time man! remember to share when u r done!

check this out:
http://www.hlj.com/product/GNZMN001

it meant to fit in the nozzle of normal tube super glue. yes, super glue near the tip will dry after use. but no worry, because the tip is very tight, only a small portion of super glue at the very end of the outlet will get dry n harden. so next time u when u use, just cut of a small part of tube n u r good to go.

Ok this product is 300yen..... ok we malaysian are generally very cheapo n clever. actually we can make this kind of tube ourselves easily.

- Get those vitagen straw, use a lighter to heat up (no burn!) the middle of the straw, while it's still hot, PULL! The heated part will become long n thin, form a very fine tube. Later cut it out into something similar to the gunze's product.

One vitagen straw can make 6~10 pieces if u r good at it.

It's very easy, even school kid can make them.



Masking sol neo n R are 2 different formula.

Personally i prefer R because it's thinner n it sticks better onto the surfacer, which means u can actually trim it with a blade without the whole thing coming out. Masking sol neo tends to be thicker. Due to i still have one bottle i bought last time, once in a while i still use masking sol neo.

Generally i will thin masking sol neo with water before application (if no thinning, my bottle is way too thick). even so, i find that it can't adhere onto the surface strong enough if i need to trim it.

As for masking sol R, its strong adhesive power is a big advantage, but sometimes is also an disadvantage. This will happen after spraying when u want to peel it off. U MUST do it carefully, else, with its adhere power, it's quite easy to scratch the surface with whatever tool u r using to peel it.

If u could pay a visit to icw, i can show u the characteristics of each to u.

Overall i dont think masking sol is expensive, if u use it with care. If u didn't of course , when u knock it over, or u forget to close the cap tight that makes the sol dry out, it cost money.

Here is another cheapo way( I dont know how experience u r with modeling. This is for experience modelers only.): Use white glue (PVA glue). It's cheap, it adhere very well, a little too strong. so if ur base color is not done well, it might pull the base paint out too. Also need to dilute with water. Remember, hobby stuff is actually custom made for making modeling easier n safer. So using stuff not specially made for modeling, can be cheap, yet wont be so convenient n safe.

wow! thanks for the tips.

how you all think?

if you paint and topcoat the inner frame, you may cause the joints to become too thick. the inner frame is normally just nice as it is to allow movement. be careful that you don't make the joints too hard to move.