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 Model Kits/Toys Painting, Building, Modding Thread, v3

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dfcloud
post Jul 27 2011, 01:46 AM

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QUOTE(dfcloud @ Jul 27 2011, 12:28 AM)
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try my hand on sanding. used mr compound coarse for polishing. do i need to sand more (1500 grit) to make it shiny like normal out of the box again?

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Added on July 27, 2011, 12:40 amanother thing is, when doing wet sanding do we really need to use dishwasher detergent?
cuz mine not really skin friendly. normal body soap can ahh laugh.gif
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accidentally asked these at gundam thread pulak doh.gif
dfcloud
post Jul 27 2011, 03:46 PM

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whoah i did not expect someone would reply this long.
thanks for taking the time to help me nod.gif
QUOTE(rayloke @ Jul 27 2011, 12:45 PM)
From i see in the photo, i m suspecting when u cut your parts outta the runner, u have already damage the part. From photo, it looks like the nip mark is actually lower than the part's surface, a.k.a a hole. Besides that, mebbe due to the cutting blade isn't sharp enough, areas around the nip has already gone white color. This white color doesn;t only appear on the surface only, but it's actually the plastic around the cut part has turn white, due to irregular direction of force. These part unfortunately without putty n priming n coloring, it wont be disappeared 100%.
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yeah this buster gundam is actually my first bandai brand. and uh, i was using a wire cutter & cardbox knife sweat.gif
will using top coat fix the white stuff cuz im not going anywhere near spray paint or airbrush due to its cost.
also i read that marker with same/near like colour could help abit from the eye sore. hmm.gif

QUOTE(rayloke @ Jul 27 2011, 12:45 PM)
However, for other areas, i think u can use a higher grit sandpaper to sand. u can also use compound. Compound actually works like sand paper, but instead of in a sheet of paper form, it's in cream form. normally, sand paper with higher grit is more expensive. 2,000 grit sand paper is still quite commonly found in the market. But grit like 4,000, 8,000, 12,000, is basically impossible to find in hardware shop (Some online shop got) So generally we use compound to substitue.

u can use tamiya coarse, then go to fine. pointer: after u compound, if u see the surface is like with a layer of white color, those r actually extreme fine scratches due to sand paper or compounding, it means u can use a higher grit compound/sand paper to continue. Using compound to polish, if u do it right, your plastic surface can be as shiny as a car body.
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wait this mean going from 1500 grit to coarse compound is very2 stupid doh.gif
now i waste my money on the compound already doh.gif doh.gif
btw cap-ayam/normal hardware store sandpaper will do right?
dont really need bandai or other branded sandpaper

QUOTE(rayloke @ Jul 27 2011, 12:45 PM)
P/S: when the grit is going higher, generally we dont call it sanding anymore, we generally use the word "polish"
Don't use detergent when u do wet sand.

The only time detergent exist in modeling is when u wash the plastic part, clean mold release agent from the plastic if there's any exist. Also the alkaline nature of detergent, there'r cases, when u soak the plastic in overnight or for days, sometimes the plastic will have chemical reaction. bubbles will be formed n spoil the plastic.
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so basically i ruin my finger for nothing sweat.gif
thanks for clearing that one out.

dfcloud
post Jul 27 2011, 04:32 PM

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QUOTE(rayloke @ Jul 27 2011, 04:22 PM)
Huhu, i know i m long winded. can't help. old people's syndrome

I wouldn't say stupid, in fact i think u r doing something that can make your kit looks good. Generally is very hard to find high grit sand paper. 1500, even 2000 grit will leaves scratches quite visible to eyes, so if u want something like the original smoothness, at least use compound coarse, if can use until fine even better.

normal hardware shop sand paper can be used. but for higher grit ones, which means the work is very fine n mistakes can be easily spotted, i would recommend use tamiya or other good brands. this is mainly because, the grit is the size of the stone sticked on the paper. Better brand ones tend to have more standardize roughness. while lower brand ones sometimes have mixed roughness.

i usually use hardware shop one until 1200. after that (usually for car model kit) higher grit ones, i use tamiya sand paper.
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im not complaining la tongue.gif in fact i really appreciate it nod.gif
so how would u gauge the coarse compound grit? if i also buy fine, will that make it shinier than out-of-the-box plastic type of shine?

dfcloud
post Jul 28 2011, 02:00 AM

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QUOTE(rayloke @ Jul 27 2011, 08:57 PM)
This is a wip i tried to record various compounding. the part is black in color, so the cloudy, whitish layer due to compounding. i realised if the color of the part is lighter tone of color, it's harder to realise the cloudy effect.

YHes, if u compound, u can actually achieving mirror like effect, something even more glossy than MG HD version. but to that extend, u need compound-Finish. Stopping at compound Fine, u can wow normal people but still can't escape eyes of those who r really picky.
yes.
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but i dont really fancy shiny model. sweat.gif
if use flat top coat, no need polish right? after sand straight away spray

dfcloud
post Jul 28 2011, 11:35 AM

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roger, thanks alot mr ray. probably gonna order a flat top coat. so it will be sanding->coarse polish->top coat
dfcloud
post Jul 28 2011, 05:24 PM

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QUOTE(hyzam1212 @ Jul 28 2011, 12:28 PM)
Its a bit thick than 0.02 one, if cannot reach i just ignore it(for the time being)
So, sanding requires top coat at the end is justified, u can't only sanding it rite to make it smoother...what about the shining fingernail stick? Is it manageable without top coat? I think I will stay with nipper & knife for the time being
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im doing sanding for my first few model cuz it looks so freaking bad as was in the pic last few pages.
but yesterday night i finished on another leg. way better than my first one nod.gif

btw any other cost effective way of using polishing compound other than cotton bud?
mine kept patah after 3/4 parts. sweat.gif
using a cloth wouldnt really be cost effective cuz the compound will be absorb on a much larger surface. hmm.gif
dfcloud
post Jul 29 2011, 11:27 PM

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QUOTE(rayloke @ Jul 29 2011, 10:19 PM)
use polishing cloth. but those better ones cause plastic lacquer is aofter than car lacquer.

1pc of those microfibre polishing cloth is around 9 something (hypermarket sells them, in car accessories department). cut it into few pieces of 2" x 2" (or whatever size u comfortable). Do the polishing with it. after wash n reuse.
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thanks, will try to find em tomorrow.

done the 2nd leg
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still need some training though.
dfcloud
post Jul 30 2011, 12:14 AM

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QUOTE(mf_yamato @ Jul 29 2011, 11:42 PM)
wow...that was neat bro....
what grid do you use??
where can i get those ??
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400,600,800 & 1500 (maybe can skip 600). bought them from a hardware store nearby. brand cap ayam obviously nod.gif
and finish it with mr compound coarse.

i almost got it right i think. those sanded part is still not as shiny as the original

dfcloud
post Aug 2 2011, 03:39 PM

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what type of super glue should i use?
before this i used the elephant brand(?) and it was horrible.
can only use once cuz the glue dried inside the nozzel sweat.gif
dfcloud
post Aug 2 2011, 06:53 PM

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QUOTE(nazrul90 @ Aug 2 2011, 03:49 PM)
i recommend use cement cause it stick better than normal glue..
but take long time to make plastic stick together.. it have less white stain too

can get at hobby shop for only RM15
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thanks nod.gif
QUOTE(amduser @ Aug 2 2011, 05:00 PM)
there is a way to make sure it doesn't block the nozzle

my way is like this

then you apply the glue, you press against the body, after you finish apply, you press at the side of the body so that the glue that stay at the nozzle will return back

then you quickly that out the nozzle, get a tissue prepare as thing might get really messy here, after taken out the nozzle then wipe both the nozzle "mouth" and the super glue "mouth" until it clean (some tissue might stick to the body, if that's the case, soak in water and rub with your hand)
one thing i dont like about the plastic cement is the smell of it shakehead.gif

my plastic cement doesn't seem to be better than super glue, it dry slow even after i left for for few days it doesn't stick nicely, maybe my way of apply it is wrong?
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thanks will probably try it later nod.gif

dfcloud
post Aug 3 2011, 07:05 AM

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QUOTE(rayloke @ Aug 2 2011, 07:12 PM)
Yes!!! Have a great time man! remember to share when u r done!
check this out:
http://www.hlj.com/product/GNZMN001

it meant to fit in the nozzle of normal tube super glue. yes, super glue near the tip will dry after use. but no worry, because the tip is very tight, only a small portion of super glue at the very end of the outlet will get dry n harden. so next time u when u use, just cut of a small part of tube n u r good to go.

Ok this product is 300yen..... ok we malaysian are generally very cheapo n clever. actually we can make this kind of tube ourselves easily.

- Get those vitagen straw, use a lighter to heat up (no burn!) the middle of the straw, while it's still hot, PULL! The heated part will become long n thin, form a very fine tube. Later cut it out into something similar to the gunze's product.

One vitagen straw can make 6~10 pieces if u r good at it.

It's very easy, even school kid can make them.
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wow! thanks for the tips.

dfcloud
post Aug 11 2011, 08:31 PM

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dunno if this have been posted before, but for those who cant find the pop sickle stick for elcheapo sanding stick in a nearby shop,
you can try pharmacy. i just told the pharmacist there i want the stick that doc used to check for sore throat laugh.gif
not sure this is considered cheap or not hmm.gif

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Added on August 11, 2011, 8:37 pmbtw if i use UHU to glue the sand paper to the stick, will it come off when use for wet sanding?

This post has been edited by dfcloud: Aug 11 2011, 08:37 PM
dfcloud
post Aug 11 2011, 11:57 PM

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QUOTE(rayloke @ Aug 11 2011, 11:48 PM)
Yes, this is good, my opinion, even better than using ice cream stick which is more narrow. Good tips!
*

but after soaking it in a water for some time, the stick will bend.
not much a problem i guess. hmm.gif

dfcloud
post Aug 12 2011, 05:39 AM

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laugh.gif used metal ruler before.
dfcloud
post Aug 15 2011, 11:04 AM

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ive read in one of the post from Ngee Khiong Ex blog that he use yoko yoko tu remove panel lines, anyone tried that before?
still havent bought the zippo liquid sweat.gif

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