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 Panasonic VIERA TH-P50S10K

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anfieldude
post Oct 28 2009, 07:54 AM

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QUOTE(daryl.k @ Oct 27 2009, 11:43 PM)
'pro' calibration meaning? get someone to calibrate it for you?

using those calibration disc can do? not sure if that's what anfieldude means.
*
daryl,

The problem with the S10 is the greyscale (neutral shades of grey, black and white) are tainted with green. The setting to fix this is in the service menu. The way to set the greyscale is to use a meter and make changes to the RGB (cut/gain) that can remove this. However, without a meter what u could end up wiht would be a red/blue tint. Most peoples are will accept red/blue tint better than green. Actually, most displays have either blue or red in the whites, but these colours your eyes get used to.

You could do 2 things, you could make the adjustments by eye, however its not accurate. Or u could get a meter/get someone with a meter and get the greyscale to D65 standards.
apexg2
post Oct 28 2009, 08:04 AM

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right subtitle with the right time..hehe!!
temppei
post Oct 28 2009, 10:15 AM

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hi noob question,

42s10 has RGB settings and it's in the service menu?

Thanks.
anfieldude
post Oct 28 2009, 03:25 PM

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QUOTE(temppei @ Oct 28 2009, 10:15 AM)
hi noob question,

42s10 has RGB settings and it's in the service menu?

Thanks.
*
Yes it does.
temppei
post Oct 28 2009, 04:02 PM

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alrite.. thanks! that helps alot
lightning69
post Oct 28 2009, 04:43 PM

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What is the procedure to go in to the service menu for 50S10? What are the things that to watch out for? THing not to change etc? Any precaution?
daryl.k
post Oct 28 2009, 11:59 PM

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after reading about de problem lightning69 is having..i begin looking at an old thread..ironically started by lightning69 himself..50S10 vs 50B650..those who provided inputs to tat thread did suggest tat B650 out performs the S10..with IR as its major setback..

Lightning69 himself now suggested tat perhaps he shud've gone de korean way smile.gif so the conclusion?S10 vs B650 still hard to answer..build quality & reliability is also a big question mark with the B650..many ppl not 'trusting' de korean brand thos they hv come a long way..

normally to prevent burning & IR we burn i the tv right? With image burn in disc..i read tat with the B650 it wont settle even after 600hours of burning in..is tat true?if so what's de alternative? I watch lots of astro & most channels got permanent logo on corners..if i watch like full day surely will be a problem right..

just out of curiousity..what tv is anfieldude using?unless its Kuro 9G then mayb we can buy the exact same model he's got..then surely no problem wink.gif

This post has been edited by daryl.k: Oct 29 2009, 12:07 AM
ronnt88
post Oct 29 2009, 12:10 AM

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QUOTE(daryl.k @ Oct 28 2009, 11:59 PM)
after reading about de problem lightning69 is having..i begin looking at an old thread..ironically started by lightning69 himself..50S10 vs 50B650..those who provided inputs to tat thread did suggest tat B650 out performs the S10..with IR as its major setback..

Lightning69 himself now suggested tat perhaps he shud've gone de korean way smile.gif so the conclusion?S10 vs B650 still hard to answer..build quality & reliability is also a big question mark with the B650..many ppl not 'trusting' de korean brand thos they hv come a long way..

normally to prevent burning & IR we burn i the tv right? With image burn in disc..i read tat with the B650 it wont settle even after 600hours of burning in..is tat true?if so what's de alternative? I watch lots of astro & most channels got permanent logo on corners..if i watch like full day surely will be a problem right..

just out of curiousity..what tv is anfieldude using?unless its Kuro 9G then mayb we can buy the exact same model he's got..then surely no problem wink.gif
*
anfieldude's using or will be using KRP600M wink.gif
tough act to follow lor.. sweat.gif

This post has been edited by ronnt88: Oct 29 2009, 12:11 AM
putih
post Oct 29 2009, 12:20 AM

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QUOTE(daryl.k @ Oct 28 2009, 11:59 PM)
after reading about de problem lightning69 is having..i begin looking at an old thread..ironically started by lightning69 himself..50S10 vs 50B650..those who provided inputs to tat thread did suggest tat B650 out performs the S10..with IR as its major setback..

Lightning69 himself now suggested tat perhaps he shud've gone de korean way smile.gif so the conclusion?S10 vs B650 still hard to answer..build quality & reliability is also a big question mark with the B650..many ppl not 'trusting' de korean brand thos they hv come a long way..

normally to prevent burning & IR we burn i the tv right? With image burn in disc..i read tat with the B650 it wont settle even after 600hours of burning in..is tat true?if so what's de alternative? I watch lots of astro & most channels got permanent logo on corners..if i watch like full day surely will be a problem right..

just out of curiousity..what tv is anfieldude using?unless its Kuro 9G then mayb we can buy the exact same model he's got..then surely no problem wink.gif
*
Get a kuro 8g and you won't regret... ever... 9g is too much for average enthusiasts.


ar188
post Oct 29 2009, 01:22 AM

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QUOTE(daryl.k @ Oct 28 2009, 11:59 PM)
after reading about de problem lightning69 is having..i begin looking at an old thread..ironically started by lightning69 himself..50S10 vs 50B650..those who provided inputs to tat thread did suggest tat B650 out performs the S10..with IR as its major setback..

Lightning69 himself now suggested tat perhaps he shud've gone de korean way smile.gif so the conclusion?S10 vs B650 still hard to answer..build quality & reliability is also a big question mark with the B650..many ppl not 'trusting' de korean brand thos they hv come a long way..

normally to prevent burning & IR we burn i the tv right? With image burn in disc..i read tat with the B650 it wont settle even after 600hours of burning in..is tat true?if so what's de alternative? I watch lots of astro & most channels got permanent logo on corners..if i watch like full day surely will be a problem right..

just out of curiousity..what tv is anfieldude using?unless its Kuro 9G then mayb we can buy the exact same model he's got..then surely no problem wink.gif
*
I'm sure which ever TV he use, he can enter the expert mode and calibrate the hell out of the tv.. thumbup.gif
I kind of like how the kuro is the ISF day options after calibration..
apexg2
post Oct 29 2009, 07:57 AM

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i have sammy 4 series.....last month i got 'burn-in'(i think so) problem which the Logo's stuck in the right corner after watching oni 1 channel for such a long time....so, after a few days, the logo dissapeared itself...
anfieldude
post Oct 29 2009, 08:32 AM

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QUOTE(ar188 @ Oct 29 2009, 01:22 AM)
I'm sure which ever TV he use, he can enter the expert mode and calibrate the hell out of the tv..  thumbup.gif
I kind of like how the kuro is the ISF day options after calibration..
*
U r too kind.

I am not sure if I can calibrate the hell out of the TV, some TVs are a hell to calibrate.

This is my own view on calibration.

If u want to get the best of your display, then u shd calibrate. Setting something wrongly will ruin ur vieiwing experience.

However, there is one caveat, if u feel that ur display is already at its best and u r happy with the image, and feel that paying money to calibrate is a waste of money, don't look back and forget calibration.

Some displays behave very badly. Kuro's are really fun to calibrate especially if u can do it in the ISF modes. The ISF modes are just brighter than the normal modes and with calibration are very accurate.

However, all displays have faults. There is no single display in the market that you could not find something to fault.

The question of whether one display is better than the other is difficult to answer. The one way to answer that question is to compare them post calibration. If the calibrate better to standards, they shd perform better if u can live with the other quirks.

In that sense, the S10 does greyscale better than the older sammy' (I have not calibrated a new sammy plasma yet, shd do one when delasoul wants to get his done) but the sammy's do colour much better than a panny (becoz of the availibility of a CMS). So, u have to take into account both of that and make the decision.


richard912
post Oct 29 2009, 08:35 AM

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QUOTE(apexg2 @ Oct 29 2009, 07:57 AM)
i have sammy 4 series.....last month i got 'burn-in'(i think so) problem which the Logo's stuck in the right corner after watching oni 1 channel for such a long time....so, after a few days, the logo dissapeared itself...
*
In your case, its called "image retention" but if you keep it up, IR will lead to burn in eventually.
ar188
post Oct 29 2009, 09:24 AM

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QUOTE(richard912 @ Oct 29 2009, 08:35 AM)
In your case, its called "image retention" but if you keep it up, IR will lead to burn in eventually.
*
not really... tried it for 1+month use 4:3 mode watcing astro on the plasma (black bars on left and right), few days later back to normal..

the only time I''ve seen serious IR is on the bank ATM machine, can see the imprint of the bank logo on their CRT screen...
lightning69
post Oct 29 2009, 11:33 AM

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QUOTE(pierreye @ Jul 16 2009, 01:43 AM)
I had manage to nail the 2.2 gamma in Panny service menu. The trick is to use All-Drv and All-Cut to adjust the gamma curve. As you mention, low end is around 2.0-2.1. So you need to adjust All-Cut a little bit down to reduce the luminance. As for 90% grey around 1.3, that's mean your All-Drv is too high (Too high luminance for upper greyscale). Redo the greyscale again after you adjust the All-Cut and All Drv. Look at your gamma curve and look at the color that is either above or below the targeted gamma curve. For eg, for 30% grey, if red is above the gamma curve 2.2, then reduce red cut etc... I think you will get the idea. Below is the final adjustment I got (took me 2 hours to get this almost perfect curve and good greyscale).

Note: ATI pixel is set at YPbPr 4:4:4 which will enable me to see BTB and WTW.

Updated. Must be too tired yesterday and just found out adjusting All-Cut will also reduce the brightness control so black crush do occur. After adjusting the brightness control again using the pluge test pattern, gamma shoot back to around 1.9 to 2.0 again. Looks like this is final result I can get but nothing too serious as your problem where 90% gray at 1.3. I think you set the contrast too high which is why you get this result.

I found the above posting on adjusting the grey scale calibration.

Do I need any additional hardware to do the above calibration?

This post has been edited by lightning69: Oct 29 2009, 11:33 AM
anfieldude
post Oct 29 2009, 11:37 AM

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QUOTE(lightning69 @ Oct 29 2009, 11:33 AM)
QUOTE(pierreye @ Jul 16 2009, 01:43 AM)
I had manage to nail the 2.2 gamma in Panny service menu. The trick is to use All-Drv and All-Cut to adjust the gamma curve. As you mention, low end is around 2.0-2.1. So you need to adjust All-Cut a little bit down to reduce the luminance. As for 90% grey around 1.3, that's mean your All-Drv is too high (Too high luminance for upper greyscale). Redo the greyscale again after you adjust the All-Cut and All Drv. Look at your gamma curve and look at the color that is either above or below the targeted gamma curve. For eg, for 30% grey, if red is above the gamma curve 2.2, then reduce red cut etc... I think you will get the idea. Below is the final adjustment I got (took me 2 hours to get this almost perfect curve and good greyscale).

Note: ATI pixel is set at YPbPr 4:4:4 which will enable me to see BTB and WTW.

Updated. Must be too tired yesterday and just found out adjusting All-Cut will also reduce the brightness control so black crush do occur. After adjusting the brightness control again using the pluge test pattern, gamma shoot back to around 1.9 to 2.0 again. Looks like this is final result I can get but nothing too serious as your problem where 90% gray at 1.3. I think you set the contrast too high which is why you get this result.

I found the above posting on adjusting the grey scale calibration.

Do I need any additional hardware to do the above calibration?
*
Yes to know what the effect of making these adjustments do, you would need spectrophotomer or a colorimeter. And a software to go with that.

BTW, you cannot get a ruler flat gamma curve on any panasonics. They either crush blacks to get a 2.2 gamma or u are stuck with correct black levels but gamma of 1.9-2.0. This in turn will wash out the whites....

Also All DRV, All Cut don't do anything except raising the brightness and contrast.

One thing that needs to be also changed is the Sub-Brigthness, this can improve the gamma in the low light levels.
mys_terious
post Oct 29 2009, 11:48 AM

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QUOTE(lightning69 @ Oct 29 2009, 11:33 AM)
QUOTE(pierreye @ Jul 16 2009, 01:43 AM)
I had manage to nail the 2.2 gamma in Panny service menu. The trick is to use All-Drv and All-Cut to adjust the gamma curve. As you mention, low end is around 2.0-2.1. So you need to adjust All-Cut a little bit down to reduce the luminance. As for 90% grey around 1.3, that's mean your All-Drv is too high (Too high luminance for upper greyscale). Redo the greyscale again after you adjust the All-Cut and All Drv. Look at your gamma curve and look at the color that is either above or below the targeted gamma curve. For eg, for 30% grey, if red is above the gamma curve 2.2, then reduce red cut etc... I think you will get the idea. Below is the final adjustment I got (took me 2 hours to get this almost perfect curve and good greyscale).

Note: ATI pixel is set at YPbPr 4:4:4 which will enable me to see BTB and WTW.

Updated. Must be too tired yesterday and just found out adjusting All-Cut will also reduce the brightness control so black crush do occur. After adjusting the brightness control again using the pluge test pattern, gamma shoot back to around 1.9 to 2.0 again. Looks like this is final result I can get but nothing too serious as your problem where 90% gray at 1.3. I think you set the contrast too high which is why you get this result.

I found the above posting on adjusting the grey scale calibration.

Do I need any additional hardware to do the above calibration?
*
yes u need the meter n need to read up on how to calibrate a tv.. can try avs forum.. but if u r a non techy person like me then its better to get some1 who know how to do it to show u..
lightning69
post Oct 29 2009, 11:50 AM

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QUOTE(anfieldude @ Oct 29 2009, 11:37 AM)
Yes to know what the effect of making these adjustments do, you would need spectrophotomer or a colorimeter. And a software to go with that.

BTW, you cannot get a ruler flat gamma curve on any panasonics. They either crush blacks to get a 2.2 gamma or u are stuck with correct black levels but gamma of 1.9-2.0. This in turn will wash out the whites....

Also All DRV, All Cut don't do anything except raising the brightness and contrast.

One thing that needs to be also changed is the Sub-Brigthness, this can improve the gamma in the low light levels.
*
I don't have any spectrophotomer so can try with naked eyes to calibrate to please the eyes only? You mentioned that the above is for brightness and contrast, what about the greyscale?
anfieldude
post Oct 29 2009, 11:58 AM

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QUOTE(lightning69 @ Oct 29 2009, 11:50 AM)
I don't have any spectrophotomer so can try with naked eyes to calibrate to please the eyes only?  You mentioned that the above is for brightness and contrast, what about the greyscale?
*
You can try anything its ur set. U just need to be careful in the service menu as pressing the wrong button and saving can brick ur set.

For greyscale the adjustments need to be RCut,GCut, BCut, RDrv, GDrv amd BDrv.

I calibrated a S10 before. I cannot remember if I had to change both Green Cuts and Drv to remove the green tint. Also I believe I had to do more that that to get a proper greyscale. The problem is if u change it too much, u risk ending up with a blue or red tint. Also changing this can change the brightness as well on the low scale.

The good thing is that post calibration the set looked pretty good with no green tinting anymore.

lightning,
I cannot think of a safe way of telling you what to do, especially since I do not have S10 in front of me. As such, I am wary of giving the wrong info.

As I told you, when I get the chance to calibrate the next S10 and the owner allows me to share the service menu offsets I will post if I feel the risk is low.

I will not be responsible for anyone messing around in the service menu and bricking ur set.
lightning69
post Oct 29 2009, 12:04 PM

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QUOTE(anfieldude @ Oct 29 2009, 11:58 AM)
You can try anything its ur set. U just need to be careful in the service menu as pressing the wrong button and saving can brick ur set.

For greyscale the adjustments need to be RCut,GCut, BCut, RDrv, GDrv amd BDrv.

I calibrated a S10 before. I cannot remember if I had to change both Green Cuts and Drv to remove the green tint. Also I believe I had to do more that that to get a proper greyscale. The problem is if u change it too much, u risk ending up with a blue or red tint. Also changing this can change the brightness as well on the low scale.

The good thing is that post calibration the set looked pretty good with no green tinting anymore.

lightning,
I cannot think of a safe way of telling you what to do, especially since I do not haveĀ  S10 in front of me. As such, I am wary of giving the wrong info.

As I told you, when I get the chance to calibrate the next S10 and the owner allows me to share the service menu offsets I will post if I feel the risk is low.

I will not be responsible for anyone messing around in the service menu and bricking ur set.
*
Ok....Tq. Aanyway "pressing the wrong button and saving can brick ur set"...what are they wrong buttons and how to save after calibrating. I might try by writing down the original values so that I can always go back to it.

I hope i can hire you to do it for me but you too far away.

This post has been edited by lightning69: Oct 29 2009, 12:05 PM

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