just finish lapped my true120ex..damn it really have bad base...can play seesaw with it.. lol... but not so good la... using only 400>800>1500>2000 ... at least can get smooth surface..better then be4..will attach once i got my proc tomorrow..

i also have done d lapping.the temp resuce 2-3c.i satisfied.

oh i see.. so i will not worry anymore.. cant wait to get my thermalright..

anyway,neoxz.. im going to buy thermalright 120 Ultra..

anyway,neoxz.. im going to buy thermalright 120 Ultra..

[/quote]

i cant wait to see your result.hehe.gud luck bro...

thermalright 120 ultra is a good cooler... add a fan on it and its cooling performance will increase more...

i experiment lapping the HSF using Autosol...
to keep it from being faded i clean it surface using WD-40...

here some pic...



~Before Lapping~


~After Lapping~ 1 Part


~After Lapping~ Last Part + Cleaned with WD-40

i tried on TR Ultra 120 and Scythe Ninja Plus... the result are great...
the pic for TR Ultra 120 and ninja will be posted later...

This post has been edited by casperito: Apr 4 2008, 11:26 AM

dude... autosol just takes a micro layer of the hsf base... u need to use sandpaper to polish it 1st to make it flat... if shining but not flat also no effect...

i test lapping on my old p4 result not bad also gonna lap my e6600 soon
i only lap untill its flat then i puas liao dun care much mirror effect

hahaha.. good luck there... it voids warranty too ...

autosol take a micro layer but still if u do it with quite some time, u'll get the same result as the sand paper....
but still using sand paper is more faster than using autosol....

hehehe... i got bored and suddenly i wanna try lapping using autosol...
3 days autosol lapping juz to get the same result as using sand paper... (on my TR ultra 120)
also tried another HSF lapped using sand paper (my Scythe Ninja)
onli for those who are hard working enough la... hehehehe....

using sand paper much more effective to get flat and nice surface...the importance of lapping here is to get the most flatness u can achieved...
yeah, the mirror shining come in handy to satisfied our hard work...

lapped few of my cooler using sandpaper grit 400, 800, 1000, 1200, 1500, and 2000. the result impressive.
but the temp just decreased for around 2-3'c...

it took an hour to do it with a few piece of sandpaper...

u got the concept wrong bro. U'll need a flat surface 1st, eg, glass to produce a flat hs base. If ur using autosol with just rubbing rounds to it, i doubt u'll get it flat.

i guess if ur cooler's surface was flat to begin with, the difference wont be much....2-3c is not too bad.

edit:typo

This post has been edited by seanl: Apr 15 2008, 02:38 PM

noob here, currently im using a xigmatek red scorpion, im thinking of lapping it but i have some doubts about it.

firstly, i would like to know how is the performance after lapping a 1283? anyone here have done it before? mind to share some result?

secondly, after i lap, would my HSF value drop?? as the waranty will void and i might sell my cooler so im worried i wont fetch a good price after i lap.

thirdly, can anyone share some infomation about lapping HDT as im worried there is like a precaution or something that i need to know as i heard that there is liquid inside those pipes im worried i over do it. pls share with me as im still noob at this....

lastly, i would like to know, it is okay if i lap my HSF only rather than lapping both the proc and HSF....

This post has been edited by ham_revilo: Apr 18 2008, 02:49 AM

@ham_revilo.. i dun think that u should lap ur HSF..coz the main reason to lap is to get a flat surface, which lead to more contact between the IHS and the HSF base..ur red scorpion uses HDT, where it goes straight to the heatpipe..but if u think the surface is not flat, and have less contact, maybe u shud lap, but be careful.(im just scared that the heatpipe will have a hole if u u overlapped it )

@alive88, then do u know how is the result lapping 1283?? and how about the value after lapping??

the main reason i lap is to get more performance from my xigmatek and honestly im not quite sure if my base is or not flat but i know there is "drains" between the aluminium and copper... if the result are 1c or 2c diff then no point la.. but so far i only know sukhoi done it but i cant seem to find his result... or maybe he didnt even post...

anyways thanks for the advise alive

i dun know as i dun own one..but like i said, usually the temp wont drop much, as u already have a great contact between ur IHS and the HSF base.there r drains btween alu and copper, but i think u may lap the aluminium part if its surface raised above the copper level(just to improve the contact of ur heatpipe)

anyways thinking of getting one (RS)??

actually we are looking for an AMD user to test out the new Xigmatek HDT-S1284 Achilles....

the reviewer,vincent predict that the achilles have better effect on AMD proc as the base of AMD proc are larger in term of area compare to intel...

This post has been edited by ham_revilo: Apr 18 2008, 03:17 AM

that may be the reason why it perform better..intel cpu heat is placed in the middle, so the heat pipe touched is not much.
edited..coz thought that 4 heatpipes are smaller..that one is another HSF from xigmatek too..(so it does make sense as amd cpu base is wider)

This post has been edited by alive88: Apr 18 2008, 03:25 AM