What fabric could be so heavy that they would weight down such stiff pants? I think the other purpose of theirs you allude to -- their function as stiffeners to avoid a break of the trouser line -- is more likely. I was also made to notice that the leg opening is concave at the front -- this would be a more elegant solution than cutting the opening at an angle. I wonder if I should get AL to make my next pair of trousers like this -- with a crescent of fusing (or maybe horsehair) and a concave curve to the front. I've not seen such elaborate trouser hem construction mentioned anywhere, not even on Sator's forum.

Which brings me to my second thought: Do you think the stiffener is padded to the trousers?!! What material is it of? I am most hesitant to unpick it.

Padded? Just do the pinch test.

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Added on July 21, 2010, 7:05 pmSomething magical happened to my KH shirt. I noticed bubbling at the collar, hence decided to separate the fusing from the cloth. It worked. Now the collar and cuffs are soft and unfused.

This post has been edited by bloke1: Jul 21 2010, 07:05 PM

Pinch test shows no discernible canvassing, just the light black twill fabric. The hem inlay is attached to this black fabric which in turn is attached to the trouser leg via the little stitches you see in the pic. The function of said black fabric is therefore still a mystery.

In other news I went to another bundle shop today. It is in Subang Jaya SS15, on 1st floor of a shoplot opposite the Subang wet market. It is a "bundle boutique" which means the stock is strongly edited, which in the Malaysian case means only branded stuff are there. RL and Brooks B. dress shirts, Lacoste sneakers, Evisu, etc. Very expensive. Nothing bespoke. Bought a woolen navy tie with diagonal red stripes for RM5.

I went to a bundle shop today too. It's full of junk =( There were some silk ties that used to be decent if they didn't somehow get wet, maybe more than once.

i bet i could have pulled out a few great pieces from there

I'm pretty confident with my ability to spot quality..but i guess the smell of old clothes and dust needs getting used to.

wait till you handle the suits. black grime on fingers. human grease.

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Added on July 21, 2010, 11:10 pmI have compiled a list of some 6 bundle shops I have yet to visit. It will be an interesting weekend.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Jul 21 2010, 11:10 PM

Saw a similar patterned fabric at textile centre when I was on a day trip to Singapore yesterday. Very thick too. Unfortunately one has to be a fan of polyester before having anything made in that material!!

Yeah, mine is polyester too. Lokemui is a fan of that material.

I bought another pair of trousers today. Every buttonhole was hand-sewn (it has a button fly). Fishtail back, but it also has belt loops. It has very interesting detailing inside. I inspected like 30 Japanese trousers, and now I have a pretty good feel for how the Japanese make them. It's exorbitantly priced at RM12 -- the most I've paid for trousers in that shop.

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Added on July 23, 2010, 9:11 pm

If I had posted a pic like this and claimed the shank to be my own work, Lokemui would have so lambasted me I would be left sobbing.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Jul 23 2010, 09:11 PM

Update :
They sorta fixed my skinny jeans, but not as nice as before *sigh*
And its tighter now =.=, and it costed me RM20, cheap or expensive?

I have always liked a thick, substantial, yet soft (and floppy) kind of collar. I have searched far and wide. And now, finally, I have solved the issue: heavy, dense, white cotton muslin.

http://books.google.com.my/books?id=9H06BY...rfacing&f=false

This person has a tailoring blog on sewing button holes etc.

If AL still has the Hilditch & Key shirts at his shop, perhaps you can persuade him to open one up to see what lies beneath. H & K's collars are not substantial -it would be Harvey Hudsons or T & A you are looking for . They come up on EBay from time to time

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Added on July 29, 2010, 7:34 amHere's pictures of a shirt I made sometime back.






This post has been edited by beau: Jul 29 2010, 07:34 AM

i would like to ask if is it possible to shorten the length of a formal shirt? because it is too long for me

Beau,

Are those buttonholes handsewn? They look extraordinary.

any of you chose velvet material as your tailored suit?

can anyone answer&clarify my question pls? ><

This I have to agree. Last pic wins.

There's this article about Granoff in today's Star. Prices are like a blow to the gut. I wonder do they offer full canvassing at such prices. David should be able to shed some light.

Their RTW line already costs a mind-blowing RM2500 with bespoke starting from RM4000. If I'm rich, I'd get myself a flight ticket to Savile R. with that money. IINM, Granoff demands a few more of your limbs for full canvassing.

Moreover, they had to use a pic of Dr.M in his nehru collar jacket. Preposterous, I say! They should have used a better model, like kokmj who looked murderously dashing in his blood-stained mao jacket posted a few pages back.

This post has been edited by Fusion[eX]: Aug 1 2010, 10:11 PM

Just because they're neighbours to some overpriced designer labels??