Welcome Guest ( Log In | Register )

149 Pages « < 43 44 45 46 47 > » Bottom

Outline · [ Standard ] · Linear+

 The Tailoring Thread, Bespoke. Nothing beats a perfect fit

views
     
kotmj
post Jul 18 2010, 12:05 PM

The Coatmaker's Apprentice
*******
Senior Member
3,802 posts

Joined: Apr 2009
From: City of Anggerik


QUOTE(beau @ Jul 18 2010, 08:37 AM)
Nice-Where did you get them from?

I've seen these types of trousers worn at weddings in the UK with a morning coat & by litigators in England with their wig & gown. Very elegant.

They were selling these at Moss Brothers in the UK marked down during the sale period but the fabric was too thick for our climate. How's the fabric on these?
*
I kept telling a freshly-graduated lawyer previously on this forum that if he absolutely MUST wear a black jacket, he must pair it with trousers like this. As you can imagine, he thought I was stupid or something.

I found these at a bundle shop for RM5. They do not fit me -- they were made for a fat and very tall Japanese. I bought them because I am interested in tailoring and to use as a sample for my next trousers. The fabric is the thickest I've seen. The trousers are very, very heavy and stiff.


Added on July 18, 2010, 12:10 pmuser posted image

This post has been edited by kotmj: Jul 18 2010, 12:10 PM
U+FFFD
post Jul 18 2010, 12:17 PM


*******
Senior Member
2,356 posts

Joined: Jan 2003
QUOTE(kotmj @ Jul 18 2010, 12:05 PM)
I found these at a bundle shop for RM5. They do not fit me -- they were made for a fat and very tall Japanese. I bought them because I am interested in tailoring and to use as a sample for my next trousers. The fabric is the thickest I've seen. The trousers are very, very heavy and stiff.


Added on July 18, 2010, 12:10 pm
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

*
A year a go, I used to hunt far and wide for a pair of trousers to pair with my morning coat and you tell me you found them easily in a bundle shop for just RM5? It is even hand-stitched. Damn.


Added on July 18, 2010, 12:18 pmBy the way, is that bloke in your avatar who I think it is?

This post has been edited by Fusion[eX]: Jul 18 2010, 06:34 PM
kotmj
post Jul 18 2010, 01:05 PM

The Coatmaker's Apprentice
*******
Senior Member
3,802 posts

Joined: Apr 2009
From: City of Anggerik


There is one mysterious feature on these trousers. The insides of the leg opening have these extra "things" sewn in by hand. You are looking at the inside of the bottom hem on the FRONT, not back of the leg.

user posted image

user posted image

The back of the bottom hem (heel side) has the usual partial hem reinforcement to withstand abrasion with the shoe.

user posted image


This particular bundle shop has many, many more navy Japanese work trousers. Like Miss Loke's grandfather's pants, many do not have a waistband and have a split back. I will buy more to see how they are made.

There is also a pair of Japanese khaki chinos with very special side adjuster buckles. Brass or bronze, very solid and well-made, and very unique. The chinos is very forgettable, but I was tempted to buy the pair just for the buckles. But the pair costs RM13. A bit too much to pay for buckles, no?
beau
post Jul 18 2010, 02:24 PM

On my way
****
Senior Member
572 posts

Joined: Jul 2010


QUOTE(kotmj @ Jul 18 2010, 12:05 PM)
I kept telling a freshly-graduated lawyer previously on this forum that if he absolutely MUST wear a black jacket, he must pair it with trousers like this. As you can imagine, he thought I was stupid or something.

I found these at a bundle shop for RM5. They do not fit me -- they were made for a fat and very tall Japanese. I bought them because I am interested in tailoring and to use as a sample for my next trousers. The fabric is the thickest I've seen. The trousers are very, very heavy and stiff.


Added on July 18, 2010, 12:10 pmuser posted image
*
I once saw a similar patterned trousers in a lighter fabric ( Linen/Silk/Cotton) at a factory outlet in Italy. Unfortunately it wasn't my size although the price was extremely tempting ( 10 Euros )

You can see similar type trousers at the following sites:-

1. www.edesandravenscroft.com -Edes & Ravenscroft is the official supplier to the legal profession

2. www.favourbrook.com-Favourbrook on Jermyn Street specializes in waist coats & party wear . There is a picture of a stripe pants with fish tail/brace back which is quite nice.

The court room lawyers (in England) wear these pants with a black jacket & waist coat with their gown & wig.
Don't see any lawyers wearing these in Malaysia. I thought I was at an undertakers convention when I dropped a lawyer friend at the Jalan Duta Court Complex sometime back.

I have seen some French and Italians wearing similar type stripe trousers with their black dinner jacket. Not sartorially correct but interesting nevertheless.

Got an interesting pair of trousers at an army surplus store which might be interesting.

It's a khaki cross over trousers with self belting similar to the type worn by British Army officers. I'll post pictures of it later.

Cheenoo
post Jul 18 2010, 02:45 PM

Alpha as fuck
*****
Senior Member
845 posts

Joined: May 2010



whos that?

This post has been edited by Cheenoo: Jul 18 2010, 03:20 PM
kotmj
post Jul 18 2010, 05:56 PM

The Coatmaker's Apprentice
*******
Senior Member
3,802 posts

Joined: Apr 2009
From: City of Anggerik


QUOTE(Cheenoo @ Jul 18 2010, 02:45 PM)
whos that?
*
Yeah, I'm also wondering who beau is. Such a big timer appears all of a sudden out of nowhere. He might be a friend of the Tan Sri.

But, in the meantime, a question for Beau et al:

CONTEXT
I will be going to Europe on a 2-3 week business trip sometime this autumn. I will be meeting with the MD of the company in Europe who also happens to be the Senior VP of the business unit my company here in Malaysia belongs to. I've interviewed with him before a couple of months back when he was here on a trip. I'll be mostly holding small 1-to-1 to 4-to-1 workshops/conversations on a variety of operations management topics with our people there. I am very new to this company, having just joined it. I am not quite 30, and have an advanced engineering background.

QUESTION
How the f*** do I dress? This is an engineering company and suits are just too formal. It might scare the natives. Going with casual wear (you know, Jack Wolfskin and jeans) OTOH is inappropriate for the position I am in and the task at hand. Everything has to fit into suitcase and weigh no more than 20kg. Thanks.
TSjind86
post Jul 18 2010, 06:24 PM

Regular
Group Icon
VIP
1,507 posts

Joined: Feb 2008
From: Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia


QUOTE(kotmj @ Jul 18 2010, 04:17 AM)
ruth is a piece of shit.


Added on July 18, 2010, 4:17 amonly ppl like jind goes there
*
i may not know much bout tailoring considering im not a pro like u guys, but thats one place which has served me well..

and at least im open to sharing so others who are non-pros like me can get some sort of help in finding a tailor (although it may not be up to high standards).. beats coming to a forum simply to brag and criticize..
Cheenoo
post Jul 18 2010, 06:29 PM

Alpha as fuck
*****
Senior Member
845 posts

Joined: May 2010


QUOTE(jind86 @ Jul 18 2010, 06:24 PM)
i may not know much bout tailoring considering im not a pro like u guys, but thats one place which has served me well..

and at least im open to sharing so others who are non-pros like me can get some sort of help in finding a tailor (although it may not be up to high standards).. beats coming to a forum simply to brag and criticize..
*
yeah nuke his avatar.
kotmj
post Jul 18 2010, 06:34 PM

The Coatmaker's Apprentice
*******
Senior Member
3,802 posts

Joined: Apr 2009
From: City of Anggerik


QUOTE(jind86 @ Jul 18 2010, 06:24 PM)
i may not know much bout tailoring considering im not a pro like u guys, but thats one place which has served me well..

and at least im open to sharing so others who are non-pros like me can get some sort of help in finding a tailor (although it may not be up to high standards).. beats coming to a forum simply to brag and criticize..
*
Firstly, pls do not use the word "tailor" to describe a clothes potong shop.

Secondly, I am here to advance the sartorial arts of the nation. I will criticize where necessary.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Jul 18 2010, 06:34 PM
TSjind86
post Jul 18 2010, 06:47 PM

Regular
Group Icon
VIP
1,507 posts

Joined: Feb 2008
From: Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia


firstly, call them whatever you want, their in the alterations business..

secondly, you're not.. you think you are, but you're not.. you're just here to say "hey im far more sartorially superior than all of you, and im not going to let you guys in on anything.."

anyway im not gonna go on bout this, i just wanted to speak my mind as it pretty much sucks when you're minding your own business and someone keeps stabbing you from time to time..

kotmj
post Jul 18 2010, 07:19 PM

The Coatmaker's Apprentice
*******
Senior Member
3,802 posts

Joined: Apr 2009
From: City of Anggerik


Mai, mai, is it easy to ruffle your feathers.

Also, the thing about furthering the sartorial arts of the nation was clearly tongue-in-cheek, I couldn't care less what rags people wear.
beau
post Jul 18 2010, 08:06 PM

On my way
****
Senior Member
572 posts

Joined: Jul 2010


QUOTE(kotmj @ Jul 18 2010, 05:56 PM)
Yeah, I'm also wondering who beau is. Such a big timer appears all of a sudden out of nowhere. He might be a friend of the Tan Sri.

But, in the meantime, a question for Beau et al:

CONTEXT
I will be going to Europe on a 2-3 week business trip sometime this autumn. I will be meeting with the MD of the company in Europe who also happens to be the Senior VP of the business unit my company here in Malaysia belongs to. I've interviewed with him before a couple of months back when he was here on a trip. I'll be mostly holding small 1-to-1 to 4-to-1 workshops/conversations on a variety of operations management topics with our people there. I am very new to this company, having just joined it. I am not quite 30, and have an advanced engineering background.

QUESTION
How the f*** do I dress? This is an engineering company and suits are just too formal. It might scare the natives. Going with casual wear (you know, Jack Wolfskin and jeans) OTOH is inappropriate for the position I am in and the task at hand. Everything has to fit into suitcase and weigh no more than 20kg. Thanks.
*
1. The British would prefer dark suits ( Charcoal Gray,Navy Blue, light blue or white shirts black shoes. The French & Italians allow more latitude in dressing.

2. What nationality of the MD?

3. Will there be any dinners/functions to attend?

4. Will you be traveling around to different business locations/ countries

5. Will there be any possibility of customer or external party interaction?

4. I generally pack 2 suits ( Navy & Dark Grey- BTW I usually make my suits with 2 trousers ) , plain colored shirts & ties ( knitted as it travels better. I will include 1 or 2 khakis & a jumper ( round or v neck in plain colors ) for business casual.
I use a Barbour Jacket with a detachable hood as out where to protect me against the elements .

I would strongly suggest you wear a suit & tie the first day you turn up at the office. Assess how your co-workers dress before adjusting your dress code accordingly.

BTW-Business casual does not mean collarless t-shirts. For senior positions, it just means that you don't wear a tie & might wear khakis with your jacket but the shoes should still be leather & you should wear a jacket. The lower grade the job , the more casual it gets-unless you happened to the the boss in which case anything goes. Some of your ALT offerings look fine.

Let me know if this helps
kotmj
post Jul 18 2010, 09:28 PM

The Coatmaker's Apprentice
*******
Senior Member
3,802 posts

Joined: Apr 2009
From: City of Anggerik


QUOTE(beau @ Jul 18 2010, 08:06 PM)
1. The British would prefer dark suits ( Charcoal Gray,Navy Blue, light blue or white shirts black shoes. The French & Italians allow more latitude in dressing.

2. What nationality of the MD?

3. Will there be any dinners/functions to attend?

4. Will you be traveling around to different business locations/ countries

5. Will there be any possibility of customer or external party interaction?

4. I generally pack 2 suits ( Navy & Dark Grey- BTW I usually make my suits with 2 trousers ) , plain colored shirts & ties ( knitted as it travels better. I will include 1 or 2 khakis & a jumper ( round or v neck in plain colors ) for business casual.
I use a Barbour Jacket with a detachable hood as out where to protect me against the elements .

I would strongly suggest you wear a suit & tie the first day you turn up at the office. Assess how your co-workers dress before adjusting your dress code accordingly.

BTW-Business casual does not mean collarless t-shirts. For senior positions, it just means that you don't wear a tie & might wear khakis  with your jacket but the shoes should still be leather & you should wear a jacket. The lower grade the job , the more casual it gets-unless you happened to the the boss in which case anything goes. Some of your ALT offerings look fine.

Let me know if this helps
*
This is the land of four rings and the three-pointed star.

I know how the inmates there will be dressed. Incredibly casual, essentially clothes you'd wear at home. Except for senior management, they will be dressed as you'd expect of senior management. I'm in middle management.

2. He's a native of that land, but spent several years studying on *that* island.

3. Unlikely, but you never know. When there, I represent the Malaysian branch.

4. Will be at 2 facilities, both in the same country and a short train ride from each other.

5. Unlikely. I'm not in sales.

I think I need a navy in heavy cloth (13 oz). Outside temperatures will be 15 degrees Celsius with strong winds and indoors will be around 19-21. I was thinking maybe the charcoal 2-piece and this navy suit. The navy suit will be a DB with swappable buttons so I can turn it into a blazer to wear with odd trousers.

And yes, of course, always English welted shoes. I'll bring 3 pairs along.


Added on July 18, 2010, 10:07 pmI dislike the Barbour but will need a waterproof outerwear. Maybe a trenchcoat?

This post has been edited by kotmj: Jul 18 2010, 10:07 PM
beau
post Jul 18 2010, 10:25 PM

On my way
****
Senior Member
572 posts

Joined: Jul 2010


QUOTE(kotmj @ Jul 18 2010, 09:28 PM)
This is the land of four rings and the three-pointed star.

I know how the inmates there will be dressed. Incredibly casual, essentially clothes you'd wear at home. Except for senior management, they will be dressed as you'd expect of senior management. I'm in middle management.

2. He's a native of that land, but spent several years studying on *that* island.

3. Unlikely, but you never know. When there, I represent the Malaysian branch.

4. Will be at 2 facilities, both in the same country and a short train ride from each other.

5. Unlikely. I'm not in sales.

I think I need a navy in heavy cloth (13 oz). Outside temperatures will be 15 degrees Celsius with strong winds and indoors will be around 19-21. I was thinking maybe the charcoal 2-piece and this navy suit. The navy suit will be a DB with swappable buttons so I can turn it into a blazer to wear with odd trousers.

And yes, of course, always English welted shoes. I'll bring 3 pairs along.
*
The Germans & English share similar sartorial taste. Dark suits are the order of the day with simple pattern ties. If you are aspiring to Senior Management , dress accordingly .

13oz may be a bit heavy as our Teutonic friends tend to have well insulated modern offices with very efficient central heating. I'm thinking more 10 to 11 oz . Not too sure the double breasted suit. Single breasted may go down better .
Don't forget a scarf & the fact that night temperatures may go below 10 C. The neck, chest & feet need to be well covered if one does not wish to succumb to the elements. Lip balm & a good face cream will help with the dry & cold climate.
Shopping wise, things are generally more expensive in the land of the ultimate driving machine than in other parts of Europe.

If time permits take a train ride to Paris. The transport system's excellent in Europe ( The budget airlines are much cheaper than our AirAsia )There's an excellent factory outlet outside Paris called La Valle Village where you might find discounted stuff. Northern Italy isn't too far away either & a good place to source for discounted fabrics.

Depending on where you are, day trips are not out of the question.

Good Luck & do us proud-Malaysia Boleh!!

In the meantime here the pictures of the cross over pants I picked up from an army surplus store for STG5 which might be of interest. Do you think Ah Loke will tear his hair out if I get him to do these for me with some modifications? ( the buckle's not great but for 5 quid I'm not complaining )


user posted imageuser posted imageuser posted image
user posted imageuser posted image

kotmj
post Jul 18 2010, 10:51 PM

The Coatmaker's Apprentice
*******
Senior Member
3,802 posts

Joined: Apr 2009
From: City of Anggerik


I think those are called Gurkha trousers, and I estimate that there is a fair possibility that AL will make them for you if you leave him the sample to copy from. They look very special.

Of course you can hint to him that lanatir will be a huffin and a puffin to his shop to get himself a pair right after you take delivery of yours.


Added on July 18, 2010, 11:06 pmI have several very dear friends who have been extraordinarily kind to me during my years there so if I do any private traveling it will be to visit them. I also have this urge to visit a former professor of mine to see if he has any sage advice for me -- my job is challenging and he is an old hand at this. It is unlikely I will be on any sartorially-linked trip.

Thanks for mentioning toiletries: I almost forgot about the dry winds!

This post has been edited by kotmj: Jul 18 2010, 11:06 PM
beau
post Jul 19 2010, 09:56 AM

On my way
****
Senior Member
572 posts

Joined: Jul 2010


QUOTE(kotmj @ Jul 18 2010, 10:51 PM)
I think those are called Gurkha trousers, and I estimate that there is a fair possibility that AL will make them for you if you leave him the sample to copy from. They look very special.

Of course you can hint to him that lanatir will be a huffin and a puffin to his shop to get himself a pair right after you take delivery of yours.


Added on July 18, 2010, 11:06 pmI have several very dear friends who have been extraordinarily kind to me during my years there so if I do any private traveling it will be to visit them. I also have this urge to visit a former professor of mine to see if he has any sage advice for me -- my job is challenging and he is an old hand at this. It is unlikely I will be on any sartorially-linked trip.

Thanks for mentioning toiletries: I almost forgot about the dry winds!
*
A trench coat is a good idea. The flea markets or the Oxfam style shops there stock them at reasonable prices. A friend recently picked up a single breasted Burberry with removable wool lining at a weekend market in Holland for 20 Euro !! Has a very Michael Caine look. He got the boutique in Singapore to replace the buttons for free and paid a nominal sum for it to be refurbished.

The trousers are a copy of fifties style drill trousers issued by the British Army. They come in shorts as well ( see the Silvermann's website ).They were a steal at STG5. I find it useful for going thru airports as it doesn't require a belt which speeds up the security process.

BTW the land of the 3 point star has stringent airport security checks way before 9/11 & Al Queda became a major influence on air travel. Be prepared to take off your shoes, take out your laptop & cellphone , remove the batteries, boot up the device etc. They had experience dealing with terrorist groups way back. The checks are way more thorough as compared to the ones currently conducted in the US.

The checks are usually fine so long as one is cooperative & humble. I've seen uncooperative travelers get taken aside for additional "checks". Believe me , you don't want to go through that.

I've not had good Chinese food there ever. The decent & reasonable priced foods tend to be Middle Eastern/Turkish style cuisine ( not surprising given the large Turkish population there ), Italian & Northern Indian.

German cuisine can be a trite challenging for Asian -Having sliced meat for breakfast is not my idea of how to start the day. The beers ( both light & dark ) are a joy to drink & very necessary if you wish to bond with your co-workers. Germans are extremely particular about their beer & how it's served ( preferably with a large head to denote it's freshness , unlike the English who think they are being cheated if they are served the amber liquid in a similar manner ) .

Plenty of pork too, the pork knuckle being a particular favorite amongst out Teutonic friends.

The museums & galleries are worth a visit , many have nominal or no admission charge. If you happened to be in Cologne, the art museum at the basement of the Cathedral is a must see , particular if one's a fan of pop art & Paul Klee/Warhol.

My general observations about their working style is as follows:-

1. Come early to work. It is common for people to turn up as early as 6.30 am/ 7 am to work and seen as a sign of an industrious employee. Late comers are not well regarded .

2. Closely linked to the above is the need to be punctual-meetings & training etc need to start & finish on time . The Malaysian tardiness will not do & you find people either walking out on you or refusing to meet at best.

3. Working hours are more intense. Unlike Asians who generally like to linger on late at work ( Civil Servants being the exception, ) our beer drinking friends like to leave work on time or early . Leisure time is sacred and any intrusion into that it not welcome.

4. Be organized & precise. They dislike vagueness & chaos. Be direct but polite & diplomatic.As with any culture, a gentle word of thanks is well appreciated.

5. The Northerner tend to be more formal & reserved, the Southerners, warm & friendly.

6. You may be asked to come to a colleague's house for dinner. This is common as eating out is expensive & tends to be reserved for weekends or special occasions. A bottle of wine for the host as well as flowers or chocolates for the hostess.

7. The Polizei ( Police ) is similar to that of Malaysia in the sense that they accept payments on the spot for traffic infractions. The only difference is they carry a handheld device which they will scan your credit card for payment & issue a receipt!! No negotiations or pleas of poverty there but cashless payments for fines are all legal. Any offers of inducement will see you as a temporary resident of some Stalag!!

8. Remember the words "Ausgang" (exit) & "Flughafen" (airport) . Very useful if you need to get out of a building or mall or get to the airport. If you plan to drive, try to rent from a local agent as opposed to the branded international agencies like Hertz or Avis. Most rentals are diesel engine and one can rent a nice C class for very little money & certainly much less than using taxis to get around. Observe the electronic signboards at the autobahn & stay out of the outer land ( unless you drive a supercharged AMG Mercedes or Ferrari ) Speed limits may be imposed due to traffic & weather conditions & their traffic police are very efficient in enforcing the rules !!

The most important thing is to have fun & build relationships with your colleagues there. They tend to be reasonable consensual .

Have a good trip and let me know if there is anything else I can help with.

p.s. The above is based on my personal viewpoint & experience. It may be different for you.


kotmj
post Jul 19 2010, 02:42 PM

The Coatmaker's Apprentice
*******
Senior Member
3,802 posts

Joined: Apr 2009
From: City of Anggerik


You seem to have encyclopedic knowledge about UDM land. Your observations tally completely with mine, though I have no problems with cold meats for breakfast. I even look forward to the Blutwurst.

I speak the language there fluently, and will conduct business in that language. I know the people there all too well, but it is good to be reminded of the very different work culture. I see you’ve had to learn a few painful lessons there yourself in dealing with them. I was once denied the opportunity to interview with someone because I was an hour late. Not my fault at all – the train was late. I even called them beforehand but it was to no avail.

I especially look forward to the cheap, cheap wine! I love wine and used to drink several glasses a day. Shopping for wine used to be a hobby of mine.

I, too, thought I’d never find good Chinese food there until I became acquainted with a Malaysian graduate student in a certain port city. She brought me to a restaurant on the Reeperbahn run by Honkies and Malaysians, and I had the shock of my life when 1) she ordered steamed fish in 2) Cantonese(!) to the waitress, who was 3) Malaysian! The food was very authentic, but the chef has to be told he is cooking for Chinese customers. We returned there many times. It became our favourite restaurant.

Well anyway, the place is a sartorial wasteland.

silencer
post Jul 19 2010, 10:42 PM

AnyThiN GoEs
******
Senior Member
1,846 posts

Joined: Jan 2003
From: City^of^Anggerik



wow....such a long advise...but forgot to mention one of the most important thing in life....."fishing" in the bar... smile.gif
netmatrix
post Jul 20 2010, 01:08 AM

The machine... it sees everything.
*******
Senior Member
6,728 posts

Joined: Jan 2003
From: Zion


user posted image

Those are weights for drape. It is also used for shaping the bottom of the pants. i think you might have noticed how when you stand and the pants ride down a little there will be a little fold near the cuffs? This one keeps that from happening. I have a few Japanese tailored pants myself. And this feature is almost always present in large sized pants from Japanese. And yes they are from bundle shops too. Though they are not from the same fabric. I must visit their main warehouse/shop in Selayang to look for more goodies.
kotmj
post Jul 20 2010, 12:35 PM

The Coatmaker's Apprentice
*******
Senior Member
3,802 posts

Joined: Apr 2009
From: City of Anggerik


QUOTE(silencer @ Jul 19 2010, 10:42 PM)
wow....such a long advise...but forgot to mention one of the most important thing in life....."fishing" in the bar... smile.gif
*
That's for small timers like you, spending time fishing in dark, smoke-filled bars. Beau has girls delivered to his suite.

149 Pages « < 43 44 45 46 47 > » Top
 

Change to:
| Lo-Fi Version
0.0159sec    0.38    6 queries    GZIP Disabled
Time is now: 4th December 2025 - 10:38 PM