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 The Tailoring Thread, Bespoke. Nothing beats a perfect fit

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niakulah
post Jan 28 2019, 11:24 AM

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QUOTE(Old Red Eyes @ Jan 27 2019, 10:55 PM)
Of course. We all do. We're talking about tailoring here.
*
Yes we are. In terms of tailoring, JT tailor made me a dress shirt to my exact specifications. That's a fact.

Unfortunately, in your case, you asked for style A and received style B. That is also a fact.

I understand your frustration, and I'm sorry to hear about your experience (why do I sound like JT customer service? Lol). If you feel the need to berate style B and whoever happens to like it (like me) to feel better, go ahead. I can take it. Bro hug. hands.gif
tdw
post Feb 1 2019, 08:58 AM

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Hi guys.
I’m actually looking for a tuxedo to be stitched
The thing is my wedding is on 2nd March 2019.
I’m also based at outstation so will be returning to KL only on 9th February.

I have called few places and only Kinslager told me the might able to make it. They quote me full set with shirt and bow tie will come up to RM1999.

My question here:
1. Is the Kinslager good for tuxedo
2. Is the price reasonable

If anyone done their suit or tux from Kinslager , would love your comments.

Old Red Eyes
post Feb 3 2019, 11:05 PM

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QUOTE(tdw @ Feb 1 2019, 08:58 AM)
Hi guys.
I’m actually looking for a tuxedo to be stitched 
The thing is my wedding is on 2nd March 2019.
I’m also based at outstation so will be returning to KL only on 9th February.

I have called few places and only Kinslager told me the might able to make it. They quote me full set with shirt and bow tie will come up to RM1999.

My question here:
1. Is the Kinslager good for tuxedo
2. Is the price reasonable

If anyone done their suit or tux from Kinslager , would love your comments.
*
I don't have any experience with Kinslager. But I might suggest you give a call to Daniel at Prestige Tailors in Seremban 2. I am very impressed by his work, and I feel certain he could meet your timeframe.

wacomfreak
post Feb 11 2019, 12:52 PM

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Hi there everyone. I was wondering about making my first suit and I pick Jeremy Tok since it's the closest from where I am right now. Anyone familiar with him? How much should I expect for a normal full canvas suit?
Meaples
post Feb 16 2019, 05:05 PM

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Hi guys, long time reader here.

Just wanted to ask:
Old Red Eyes, niakulah, judging by your previous posts, tailored shirts around KL would be Rm150 - RM350+ depending on fabric/tailor.

1. How much would the price change if you bring your own shirting fabric or heavily customise your shirt (collars/buttons/fit/etc)?

2. Are there any local/foreign sites you usually purchase your favorite shirting fabric from (or suit/pants) and are there any specific shirting fabrics you would recommend for daily use? I like thicker weaves that crease less over plain poplin types but linen is always welcome in our weather.

For reference, I tend to wear Hawes&Curtis shirts on a daily basis and getting them for about RM165 (sale/etc) is very competitive as I my fit is quite close to their dummy model size smile.gif.

On an unrelated note, I've had alot of luck finding respectable suits in Genting Premier Oulet from Sacoor. Arguably, their house fabric/fused suits are quite run-off-the-mill but sometimes they have collaborations with other fabric houses. I've got 2 suits with them, half canvassed with 150s Loro Piana and Zegna traveller for about 1k each (with pants).

If you are in the EU, Foxtown and the Armani outlet near the border of Italy/Switzerland are my best shops, where I managed to get some really nice armani suits that were not at wallet smashing prices. Unfortunately as above, I kinda fit the dummy profile so I don't require too much altering tongue.gif

This post has been edited by Meaples: Feb 16 2019, 05:09 PM
niakulah
post Feb 18 2019, 11:17 AM

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QUOTE(Meaples @ Feb 16 2019, 05:05 PM)
Hi guys, long time reader here.

Just wanted to ask:
Old Red Eyes, niakulah, judging by your previous posts, tailored shirts around KL would be Rm150 - RM350+ depending on fabric/tailor.

1. How much would the price change if you bring your own shirting fabric or heavily customise your shirt (collars/buttons/fit/etc)?

2. Are there any local/foreign sites you usually purchase your favorite shirting fabric from (or suit/pants) and are there any specific shirting fabrics you would recommend for daily use? I like thicker weaves that crease less over plain poplin types but linen is always welcome in our weather.

For reference, I tend to wear Hawes&Curtis shirts on a daily basis and getting them for about RM165 (sale/etc) is very competitive as I my fit is quite close to their dummy model size smile.gif.

On an unrelated note, I've had alot of luck finding respectable suits in Genting Premier Oulet from Sacoor. Arguably, their house fabric/fused suits are quite run-off-the-mill but sometimes they have collaborations with other fabric houses. I've got 2 suits with them, half canvassed with 150s Loro Piana and Zegna traveller for about 1k each (with pants).

If you are in the EU, Foxtown and the Armani outlet near the border of Italy/Switzerland are my best shops, where I managed to get some really nice armani suits that were not at wallet smashing prices. Unfortunately as above, I kinda fit the dummy profile so I don't require too much altering tongue.gif
*
1. Bringing your own fabric, sometimes called CMT (Cut, Make, Trim), should make things cheaper, but usually not by much. Most tailors would prefer you use their fabric as they make some margin on that as well. If it is bespoke and not just MTM (made to measure), things like collars and fit shouldn't affect the price IMO. Buttons...I once asked a tailor what would it cost to use MOP (mother of pearl) buttons, he said an additional RM200 and showed some not so impressive looking MOPs. That's 1 reason I like Jeremy Tok, MOP buttons are standard and are very nice.

2. You can try Acorn Fabric. I've bought 2 shirting lengths from them. Mostly just to educate myself on what the numbers and weave types mean and feel like. Locally, Jakel has cheap stuff that is comparable to the no-name brand swatches that local tailors have. Although I once made a dress pant with Jeremy Tok with a cheap herringbone polywool blend from Jakel. His first impression was, "Wow, this fabric feels extremely cheap" sweat.gif
CallMeGucci
post Feb 22 2019, 06:57 PM

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QUOTE(Old Red Eyes @ Feb 3 2019, 11:05 PM)
I don't have any experience with Kinslager. But I might suggest you give a call to Daniel at Prestige Tailors in Seremban 2. I am very impressed by his work, and I feel certain he could meet your timeframe.
*
Hey, could you shed some light on how much Daniel charges for a dress shirt? Cheers.
Old Red Eyes
post Feb 27 2019, 12:00 AM

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QUOTE(CallMeGucci @ Feb 22 2019, 06:57 PM)
Hey, could you shed some light on how much Daniel charges for a dress shirt? Cheers.
*
I don't remember it exactly, but I know it was Bangkok prices for much, much better quality and service. I think it was 200 ringgit with a decent fabric, and maybe 350 or so for Soktas and the like. I'll also give the guy much credit for one thing. The sleeve was a bit off on the finished product, and he insisted on remaking the shirt at his expense.

For what it's worth (given a couple other recent posts in this thread), he was willing to entertain any and all my requests -- and I had several, as I enjoyed working with him -- and also to offer mother of pearl for something really reasonable that I can't remember what it was but it was far, far less than 200 ringgit.

He also made me a very carefully customized trouser for something like 350 in really nice fabric. I don't think the guy makes much margin on his labor.
Old Red Eyes
post Feb 27 2019, 12:15 AM

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QUOTE(Meaples @ Feb 16 2019, 05:05 PM)
Hi guys, long time reader here.

Just wanted to ask:
Old Red Eyes, niakulah, judging by your previous posts, tailored shirts around KL would be Rm150 - RM350+ depending on fabric/tailor.

1. How much would the price change if you bring your own shirting fabric or heavily customise your shirt (collars/buttons/fit/etc)?

2. Are there any local/foreign sites you usually purchase your favorite shirting fabric from (or suit/pants) and are there any specific shirting fabrics you would recommend for daily use? I like thicker weaves that crease less over plain poplin types but linen is always welcome in our weather.

For reference, I tend to wear Hawes&Curtis shirts on a daily basis and getting them for about RM165 (sale/etc) is very competitive as I my fit is quite close to their dummy model size smile.gif.

On an unrelated note, I've had alot of luck finding respectable suits in Genting Premier Oulet from Sacoor. Arguably, their house fabric/fused suits are quite run-off-the-mill but sometimes they have collaborations with other fabric houses. I've got 2 suits with them, half canvassed with 150s Loro Piana and Zegna traveller for about 1k each (with pants).

If you are in the EU, Foxtown and the Armani outlet near the border of Italy/Switzerland are my best shops, where I managed to get some really nice armani suits that were not at wallet smashing prices. Unfortunately as above, I kinda fit the dummy profile so I don't require too much altering tongue.gif
*
Honestly, I'm coming around to not ever doing custom shirts again, or at least not expecting much from it. Unless maybe I could do them on Saville Row. I got started with them in the first place for a handful of reasons. One, the sleeves are often too long for me when I buy off the rack. Two, I bought into the idea that 'custom' absolutely meant higher quality. Three, I liked the idea of having the control of picking and choosing all the options. Four, once I moved to Asia from the States I was intoxicated by how affordable they were.

I now would reverse course on much of that. I've found a good alterations shop that can shorten the sleeves on shirts I buy off the rack. I know that the quality from any and every shop I've dealt with thus far in Asia is far, far below the quality from one off-the-rack shirt from a solid Italian or Japanese maker. I now regret the 'custom' choices I made on some of my shirts, such as contrasting fabric inside the collar and placket. And I have thrown away more 40-dollar shirts than I want to admit, while I keep and enjoy wearing my 100-200 dollar ones I have purchased carefully.

Put simply, the Bangkok guys can make a very nice department-store-quality shirt, if that is what you are after. You will pay around 30-40 dollars for it, typically, which is also what you would pay at a department store. You can choose your options. The fabric may not hold up as long, though, and you may not get the same level of workmanship.

What I'm coming around to is this. If you really want quality workmanship and a shirt you will be proud of wearing, buy something nice and have it altered if need be. In KL your best option, as far as I know, is the P Johnson line from Australia at WJ&Co. Super solid shirts at a price that won't break the bank. Or go on Ebay for Italian makes that you can nab all day long for about a hundred bucks. Put either of those shirts on your back, and you won't be terribly excited about going 'custom' in KL again.



Old Red Eyes
post Feb 27 2019, 12:20 AM

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QUOTE(Meaples @ Feb 16 2019, 05:05 PM)
Hi guys, long time reader here.

Just wanted to ask:
Old Red Eyes, niakulah, judging by your previous posts, tailored shirts around KL would be Rm150 - RM350+ depending on fabric/tailor.

1. How much would the price change if you bring your own shirting fabric or heavily customise your shirt (collars/buttons/fit/etc)?

2. Are there any local/foreign sites you usually purchase your favorite shirting fabric from (or suit/pants) and are there any specific shirting fabrics you would recommend for daily use? I like thicker weaves that crease less over plain poplin types but linen is always welcome in our weather.

For reference, I tend to wear Hawes&Curtis shirts on a daily basis and getting them for about RM165 (sale/etc) is very competitive as I my fit is quite close to their dummy model size smile.gif.

On an unrelated note, I've had alot of luck finding respectable suits in Genting Premier Oulet from Sacoor. Arguably, their house fabric/fused suits are quite run-off-the-mill but sometimes they have collaborations with other fabric houses. I've got 2 suits with them, half canvassed with 150s Loro Piana and Zegna traveller for about 1k each (with pants).

If you are in the EU, Foxtown and the Armani outlet near the border of Italy/Switzerland are my best shops, where I managed to get some really nice armani suits that were not at wallet smashing prices. Unfortunately as above, I kinda fit the dummy profile so I don't require too much altering tongue.gif
*
But to answer your questions more specifically, I don't purchase fabric. I'd probably enjoy that if I had the time, but I don't. Myself, I like thinner fabrics that feel like silk, but to each his own and his own needs. I might recommend you try some, though, and see what you think.

As for your question number one, I'll echo the remark another person made, that your customization should not affect the price. After all, it's what you are paying for. (At least ostensibly.)

I'm quite intrigued to hear more about these suits you found. I'd have never expected that at Genting Highlands!
wacomfreak
post Feb 28 2019, 02:43 PM

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So I ended up making a suit with Button Liew. The tailoring is okay I guess, I got what I paid for.
I felt like I don't really have any freedom to make and weird request like what kind of buttons or lining I want because I wasn't offered that by the tailor and I kinda don't feel like speaking up for it. In conclusion it leaves me a lot to be desired for.

Anyone have a better suggestion for a better tailor that is slightly more affordable than Jeremy Tok? Planning a 3 piece chalk stripe next.

Edit: Have anybody here ever made from Tux & Blazer? They seems to be very experienced tailor given their long running business.

This post has been edited by wacomfreak: Feb 28 2019, 02:47 PM
Meaples
post Mar 2 2019, 02:55 AM

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Hey niakulah and Old Red Eyes, thanks very much for the input.

Will take heed on your recommendations moving forward.

Looks like it was close to my suspicions about just buying a good OTR shirt and having it altered here. Rather unfortunate that our tailors don't stand up to the italians sad.gif.

Old Red Eyes, in regards to the suits I bought at GPO. I was actually surprised Sacoor even produced suits with such fabric! Note that the cut is not comparable to a solid Emporio or Giorgio Armani but definitely serviceable for daily wear. The half canvas was a plus as well.

As mentioned, I haven't done a full canvas tailored suit as I fit quite close to most chain's dummy profile so I can't really compare what the differences are sadly.
sagethesausage
post Mar 3 2019, 02:05 AM

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How much does it usually cost to alter the length of pants?

Recently bought some chinos from Uniqlo on sale for RM20, but they charge RM10 to alter it. Is it a fair price?
niakulah
post Mar 3 2019, 07:21 PM

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QUOTE(sagethesausage @ Mar 3 2019, 02:05 AM)
How much does it usually cost to alter the length of pants?

Recently bought some chinos from Uniqlo on sale for RM20, but they charge RM10 to alter it. Is it a fair price?
*
Based on a sample set of 1, the hourly salary of a Uniqlo sales associate is RM9.
https://www.glassdoor.com/Salary/Uniqlo-Mal....7,15_IN170.htm

If it takes nearly an hour to hem a pair of pants, at RM10, I think they under-charged you.
Meaples
post Mar 3 2019, 08:28 PM

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niakulah nearly spit out my drink reading that.
Damien?(:
post Mar 3 2019, 11:03 PM

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QUOTE(Meaples @ Mar 2 2019, 02:55 AM)
Hey niakulah and Old Red Eyes, thanks very much for the input.

Will take heed on your recommendations moving forward.

Looks like it was close to my suspicions about just buying a good OTR shirt and having it altered here. Rather unfortunate that our tailors don't stand up to the italians sad.gif.

Old Red Eyes, in regards to the suits I bought at GPO. I was actually surprised Sacoor even produced suits with such fabric! Note that the cut is not comparable to a solid Emporio or Giorgio Armani but definitely serviceable for daily wear. The half canvas was a plus as well.

As mentioned, I haven't done a full canvas tailored suit as I fit quite close to most chain's dummy profile so I can't really compare what the differences are sadly.
*
"Rather unfortunate that our tailors don't stand up to the italians sad.gif"

In regards to the above, you pay for what you get. I would in fact say that, its unfortunate that our people don't want to pay for the quality of the italians, yet want to own something like that.

When we stop cheaping out on proper suits, stop going to the 24 hour "tailors" and appreciate how a properly made suit is a necessity, then our tailors can move towards that direction. If not, we'll forever be stuck in this fused world dominated by these so called 'tailors' bar a few.



This post has been edited by Damien?(:: Mar 3 2019, 11:06 PM
Meaples
post Mar 4 2019, 07:26 PM

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I think it's a mixture of our non-suit (due to hot weather) culture and low emphasis on personal dressing from young that contributes to this.

Most of the population won't even have an occasion to wear a suit since it's quite a high affair sort of thing and our weather is just too hot for outside wear.

Which begs the question why none of the Malaysian tailors or brands have purpose built hot weather suits with extremely breathable fabrics. Stuff like unstructured linen blazers should be pushed to market compared to fused wool suits imo.

Old Red Eyes
post Mar 6 2019, 04:44 AM

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It's tempting to say that a bespoke culture just doesn't exist in KL, but it does. I can think of a dozen or more shops that I have seen while shopping for other things, on top of the ones I know.
iristodler
post Apr 15 2019, 07:11 PM

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Hye guys. I have my sister wedding next week and i need a tailor that can alter my suit shoulder. Any recommendation ?

Is it even possible for a tailor to alter the shoulder in one week ?

Thanks in advance.
niakulah
post Apr 15 2019, 09:52 PM

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QUOTE(iristodler @ Apr 15 2019, 07:11 PM)
Hye guys. I have my sister wedding next week and i need a tailor that can alter my suit shoulder. Any recommendation ?

Is it even possible for a tailor to alter the shoulder in one week ?

Thanks in advance.
*
I've always thought that the shoulder is not something you want to alter because it's very major surgery.

You might want to get a different suit. Get the shoulders right first. Sleeves and pant length can adjust easily.

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