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> The Tailoring Thread, Bespoke. Nothing beats a perfect fit

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niakulah
post Aug 26 2014, 06:39 PM

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QUOTE(fjoru103 @ Aug 26 2014, 10:37 AM)
wonder any one know any tailored belt available?
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Custom hand made bridle leather belts.

http://www.narragansettleathers.com
http://equusleather.co.uk
niakulah
post Feb 26 2015, 07:10 AM

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QUOTE(muzzodammerung @ Feb 25 2015, 11:20 PM)
hi guys. I need some suggestion and advice.

I wear suits regularly (3 days a week) and most of my suits are OTR and I guess after 5 years donning the same ill-fitted suits, it is time to change the game.

Now, I think I've read enough about the capability of Malaysian tailors when it comes to suit tailoring. I don't mean to sound degrading but from what I gather through reading extensively from this board and SF, the pool is quite pathetic. The only acceptable tailor that fits my need and budget is Ah Loke, even that micro-managing is needed.

Granted, no first tailored suit is perfect and I understand that, but as someone who is not well-verse with the technicality of suitmaking, I don't want to invest in a custom made suit with my hard-earned money only to be disappointed with the outcome.

Now I have two option, either I stick with the traditional brick & mortar tailoring, settled with the house-cut and pray that it will turn out to be okay or go for one of the abundant online MTM service like Indochino and Black Lapel...

Any good advice and suggestion are appreciated
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I'm no expert as I still use my graduation suit when the need arises(once a year? maybe every 2 years?).

But if I was in the market for a bespoke suit, Jeremy Tok(aka kotmj) would be my first choice.
niakulah
post May 27 2015, 12:00 PM

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Trying my hand at some basic alteration. Got a nice Charles Tyrwhitt shirt at FOS that fit me well at the collar and shoulders, but the cuffs were too big.

Moved the button to where I wanted it to be about 1.5" in, the shape of the cuff became weird. Did lots of googling, the impression I got is moving any more than 0.5" is asking for trouble. So redid the job, this time with crow's foot/fleur de lis stitching.

Attached Image

Also tried to shank it, but I guess I didn't leave enough space for it.

Attached Image
niakulah
post Jun 13 2015, 04:09 PM

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Finally received my first ever tailored shirt, after rejecting it twice and telling the tailor to redo some parts.

Now after 2nd wash:
Attached Image

Puckering at the yoke is quite bad. I did ask the tailor if he washed the fabric to pre shrink it before sewing, he said it wasn't necessary. It's my first shirt and it was just some no name house fabric so no big loss.

But next time I'll supply the fabric and wash it myself.
niakulah
post Jun 20 2015, 06:53 PM

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Attached Image

Didn't think the latest fashion haul thread would appreciate something like this so posting here instead.

Enough MOP buttons for 2 shirts. And needles to last me a lifetime. Lol.

Waiting for some thread to arrive then I can start my button replacement project.

Now to decide which shirts are worth the effort...
niakulah
post Dec 16 2015, 11:41 PM

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QUOTE(crazyjj @ Dec 16 2015, 11:31 PM)
Hi guys, I have bought a ready to wear jacket recently, without trouser because it doesn't have my size, may I know anywhere can tailor made a matching trouser? TIA!
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Chances are quite slim that you will find the exact same fabric in the exact same colour. And wearing a jacket and pants that are slightly different and pretending it is a suit is just ugly.

Just wear it with a different colour pants and rock it as an odd jacket. Navy jacket with grey pants for example looks awesome and is a very traditional English look.
niakulah
post Dec 17 2015, 10:45 AM

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QUOTE(crazyjj @ Dec 17 2015, 12:59 AM)
Thanks bro for the advise, did think of the chances at first, but I like it so much so have to bring it back and try luck, lol can't help. If really can't get a matching trouser then gotta leave it in the wardrobe, because I am not sure whether it is a tuxedo jacket or suit jacket.

It is all black with slim shawl lapel, one front button, all jacket button covered with matching fabric finishing and slim/modern fit. =.=
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Sure sounds like a tux. Does it have lapel facings(satin/grosgrain)?
niakulah
post Jan 1 2016, 11:52 AM

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QUOTE(xtracooljustin @ Dec 28 2015, 05:12 PM)
Guys, am keen to get a set of suit off the shelf. For now I managed to get the jacket but matching pants only left size 36 while I wear 31 inch.

Is it possible for a tailor to alter a bigger size pants to suit my current waist size of 31 inch? In my mind it seems possible. Not sure if it can be possible done without adversely losing the cutting of the pants. If its possible, which tailor have you used that is able to do this alteration?

Cheers for any pointers.
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user posted image
niakulah
post Feb 5 2016, 05:20 PM

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QUOTE(jutamind @ Feb 5 2016, 05:13 PM)
does jeremy tailor work shirt & pants as well? what's the cost?
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Yes he does. 250 per dress shirt in his standard house shirting, minimum 3 shirts for first time. Not sure about pants.
niakulah
post Jul 9 2016, 08:22 AM

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QUOTE(teongpeng @ Jul 8 2016, 07:53 PM)
Say if u buy a shirt off the rack, can you get a tailor to alter it to fit you perfectly?
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I would say get a shirt that fits you in the shoulder and neck. Sleeves can be shortened quite easily. Making the sleeve and body smaller is harder but doable.

Don't expect any tailor to be able/want to make complicated alterations like correcting the shoulder slope.
niakulah
post Jul 9 2016, 01:31 PM

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QUOTE(teongpeng @ Jul 9 2016, 08:54 AM)
Im a skinny guy and the problems for me with off the shelf shirts are that they tend to hang to loosely at the bottom and the collars are a bit large for my skinny neck.
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I'm not a tailor but I don't think there's a good way to make a collar smaller as you need more material at the yoke and front panels.

You could move the button by about 5mm without making things off-center. If you need more than that you need to look at bespoke shirts.
niakulah
post Jul 18 2016, 04:02 PM

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QUOTE(shauno @ Jul 18 2016, 03:14 PM)
you know you gonna get smacked by kotmj for saying half canvassed right?
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Lol. I was thinking the same thing.
niakulah
post Jun 4 2017, 11:14 PM

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QUOTE(JoshuaMS7 @ Jun 4 2017, 09:29 PM)
Anyone looking a accommodation nearby Taylor lakeside? I have an unit there. Please pm me if you are interested. TQ
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I'm no tailor but I can sew buttons. Does that mean I can stay there? Oh and I know the traditional differences between a poplin and a broadcloth. Surely that's the kind of thing they would talk about in a tailors' school right?
niakulah
post Aug 22 2017, 04:50 PM

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QUOTE(Takashi1978 @ Aug 22 2017, 12:55 PM)
user posted image

user posted image

TWL proudly presents Prologue who will be visiting Kuala Lumpur for its inaugural trunk show on October 6th – 8th.

Prologue was borne out of a shared love for classical elegance between three menswear enthusiasts - Chris, Jerry and Maslow. Inspired by their travels to some of the world's best tailors, Prologue's aesthetic is heavily shaped and influenced by the unfussy ease and louche elegance of Naples and Florence with the precision and attention to detail of Japan and Korea.

In that vein, our house style features softer lines and constructions, generous revers coupled with the precision and finishing touches that can only be found from the best in Asia. Prologue is proud to offer its own semi-bespoke tailoring programme that borrows the best of both made-to-measure (MTM) and bespoke tailoring outfits with fitting garments that offer a glimpse how finished garments will look, briefer lead times, intermediate fittings for difficult body types and safekeeping of client paper patterns on file for reordering.

At Prologue we are dedicated to having you walk out looking and feeling your best. We are dedicated to offering the highest quality at great value and a clear ascension path with select artisans who share our philosophy. We are different and we cannot wait to share our passion for all things menswear with you.
Appointment Schedule:
Friday (6 October): 4.00pm - 7.00pm
Saturday & Sunday (7 & 8 October): 10.00am - 7.00pm


To schedule and appointment, please email us at twlads.co@gmail.com or follow us on Instagram (@twlads.co) for updates!
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Wow! Been following Prologue on IG for some time. They make some great stuff!

I don't plan to go, but just curious is there any indication on starting price?
niakulah
post Aug 22 2017, 11:36 PM

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QUOTE(teoky @ Aug 22 2017, 11:01 PM)
But.. why you don't plan to go???
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Won't be in KL at the time.
niakulah
post Aug 22 2017, 11:41 PM

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QUOTE(Takashi1978 @ Aug 22 2017, 05:07 PM)
Have PM'd you the pricing.
Please help spread the word to your friends, we need the support as this is the first ever such trunk show in Malaysia.
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Thanks. Very reasonable pricing.

First ever by Prologue maybe, but this is certainly not the first trunk show by a foreign tailor in Malaysia.
niakulah
post Jan 19 2018, 08:37 AM

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QUOTE(hZa23 @ Jan 18 2018, 11:43 PM)
Very beautiful piece..i like the italian style suit..do you mind to tell how much was this suits?
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Dude! It's like, 3 posts above.
niakulah
post Jan 20 2018, 02:41 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Jan 20 2018, 01:56 PM)
[attachmentid=9531161]

I'd like some opinions on these two shoulders. On the left is a Neapolitan shoulder. On the right, a French shoulder. Which would you prefer?
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Between those 2? Neapolitan. Although still not a big fan of the spalla camicia.
niakulah
post Feb 6 2018, 10:06 AM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Feb 5 2018, 01:05 PM)


A couple months ago, I was approached by a producer at Bernama News Channel asking if I could make the suits for the three hosts of the talkshow Ruang Bicara, which airs every weekday on Astro 502. That would be Dato Dahlan, Sherkawi and Rina. In exchange, he would grant me a slot for a tvc as well as end credits.

I asked Holland & Sherry if they would sponsor the cloths for the suits. The cloths alone are many thousands of ringgit.

The TVC took far longer to produce than I could have imagined. It was edited by the guy who edited Polis Evo and Tombiruo starring Zul Ariffin and Farid Kamil.
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rclxms.gif Very nice!

Although the plebs won't understand why the tie is 'senget' and the jacket sleeve is 'missing' a button.
niakulah
post Jun 21 2018, 08:25 PM

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QUOTE(Kookie10 @ Jun 21 2018, 05:53 PM)
So... would you mind explaining why the tie is "senget" and the jacket sleeve is "missing" a button?
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I kinda do, coz I'm still on holiday. You can Google sprezzatura. And also working/surgeon cuffs.

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