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 The Tailoring Thread, Bespoke. Nothing beats a perfect fit

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Old Red Eyes
post Jan 27 2019, 05:42 PM

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Small thing, perhaps, but do you notice how Jeremy Tok doesn't brand his shirts like the others do? To me it speaks to an absence of pride in craft -- which I can certainly imagine.
jutamind
post Jan 27 2019, 05:52 PM

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Old Red Eyes may I know how much per shirt and per trouser that Prestige Tailor charge on average?

QUOTE(Old Red Eyes @ Jan 27 2019, 05:39 PM)
user posted image

Here's a picture of a standard collar, by Prestige Tailor in Seremban 2. This was made from the very same Soktas cloth, at a price less than half that of Jeremy Tok. Daniel has other cloths, too, including some very nice higher-end ones.

He didn't do a fitting shirt for me, per se, but instead made one up. However, when we found there was an issue with the fit, he remade it free of charge. It's very worth noting, too, that this was a one-off, and not a four-shirt minimum like at Jeremy Tok (the last thing I want is more of a bad thing!). I really can't recommend this guy highly enough, especially given my past experiences. He made me a pair of trousers that have impeccable fit, and I'm not the easiest to get right.
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Old Red Eyes
post Jan 27 2019, 06:01 PM

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Like, how is that a collar style that works for anyone, much less for a person who ordered something completely different. This collar is completely jacked up, even for someone who wants it!

It is so, so hard to describe how bad this experience was. That's what I got for my 250 bucks...that ridiculous-looking shirt.

This post has been edited by Old Red Eyes: Jan 27 2019, 06:03 PM
Old Red Eyes
post Jan 27 2019, 06:55 PM

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QUOTE(jutamind @ Jan 27 2019, 05:52 PM)
Old Red Eyes may I know how much per shirt and per trouser that Prestige Tailor charge on average?
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I think it's around 250 ringgit per shirt, which to me is a steal for Soktas fabric. (You can get shirts in Bangkok for more like 160, but from lesser cloth.) I think I paid 400 for the trousers. It's possible that he has lower-priced shirt options if on a budget...but I'd recommend the good fabric if you can.
niakulah
post Jan 27 2019, 07:11 PM

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QUOTE(Old Red Eyes @ Jan 27 2019, 06:01 PM)
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Like, how is that a collar style that works for anyone, much less for a person who ordered something completely different. This collar is completely jacked up, even for someone who wants it!

It is so, so hard to describe how bad this experience was. That's what I got for my 250 bucks...that ridiculous-looking shirt.
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Yikes! That is a disaster! That shirt obviously doesn't fit you. That might be why the collar is not rolling as it should (3 of my JT shirts have that collar).

What was his response when you told him about the problems with the first shirt?
Old Red Eyes
post Jan 27 2019, 09:55 PM

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QUOTE(niakulah @ Jan 27 2019, 07:11 PM)
Yikes! That is a disaster! That shirt obviously doesn't fit you. That might be why the collar is not rolling as it should (3 of my JT shirts have that collar).

What was his response when you told him about the problems with the first shirt?
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He told me to bring it in, and I'm quite sure that he would stand behind his work and do all he could to make it right. But I really don't have time for a tailor to fix his fuck-ups, particularly given how long he has between deliveries, and particularly given how bad he messed this one up (weird roll collar when I asked for point). I go out of my way to get to him -- literally, as he's located in a condo building -- and I don't expect to have to hold his hand and help him know what a point collar is and how much width to allow in the forearm. I expect to be paying for something when I go to a tailor, and the very least of it is that they know what they are doing.



niakulah
post Jan 27 2019, 10:08 PM

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QUOTE(Old Red Eyes @ Jan 27 2019, 09:55 PM)
He told me to bring it in, and I'm quite sure that he would stand behind his work and do all he could to make it right. But I really don't have time for a tailor to fix his fuck-ups, particularly given how long he has between deliveries, and particularly given how bad he messed this one up (weird roll collar when I asked for point). I go out of my way to get to him -- literally, as he's located in a condo building -- and I don't expect to have to hold his hand and help  him know what a point collar is and how much width to allow in the forearm. I expect to be paying for something when I go to a tailor, and the very least of it is that they know what they are doing.
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That's too bad that he got your collar mixed up. Between my 7 shirts with him, I have his point, semi-spread, and button down collars.

I particularly enjoy the collar roll of his button down (which is why I have 3), but you really have to know what you're getting into. Not everyone is familiar with the style, or know that it is never to be worn in unbuttoned.

It's a very American style, as we see on young Bruce Wayne here:
Attached Image

My colleagues did think I was nuts the first time I wore it to the office!
Old Red Eyes
post Jan 27 2019, 10:15 PM

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QUOTE(niakulah @ Jan 27 2019, 07:11 PM)
Yikes! That is a disaster! That shirt obviously doesn't fit you. That might be why the collar is not rolling as it should (3 of my JT shirts have that collar).

What was his response when you told him about the problems with the first shirt?
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You got a picture of you in the JT shirt?
Old Red Eyes
post Jan 27 2019, 10:18 PM

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QUOTE(niakulah @ Jan 27 2019, 10:08 PM)
That's too bad that he got your collar mixed up. Between my 7 shirts with him, I have his point, semi-spread, and button down collars.

I particularly enjoy the collar roll of his button down (which is why I have 3), but you really have to know what you're getting into. Not everyone is familiar with the style, or know that it is never to be worn in unbuttoned.

It's a very American style, as we see on young Bruce Wayne here:
Attached Image

My colleagues did think I was nuts the first time I wore it to the office!
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That picture you posted is nothing like the carnival shirt I got. Mine flares to a point with a crazy, crazy immediacy. It is truly nothing that any reasonable person could wear. The spread between the buttons is insane. It's just awful, no way around that. It's an entirely unprofessional piece of work. It looks like an amateur decided to make shirts and thought to do something racey. It's really so, so bad.

niakulah
post Jan 27 2019, 10:22 PM

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QUOTE(Old Red Eyes @ Jan 27 2019, 10:15 PM)
You got a picture of you in the JT shirt?
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I sure do.
Attached Image
Old Red Eyes
post Jan 27 2019, 10:23 PM

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QUOTE(niakulah @ Jan 27 2019, 10:08 PM)
That's too bad that he got your collar mixed up. Between my 7 shirts with him, I have his point, semi-spread, and button down collars.

I particularly enjoy the collar roll of his button down (which is why I have 3), but you really have to know what you're getting into. Not everyone is familiar with the style, or know that it is never to be worn in unbuttoned.

It's a very American style, as we see on young Bruce Wayne here:
Attached Image

My colleagues did think I was nuts the first time I wore it to the office!
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You can see in my pics above...the collar spread, meaning the measure between the buttons, if they had managed to get it right, would be huge. Ungodly huge. The points are way, way, way longer than anything like the American style you quote. It's just a farce. A genuine farce. I know what a button-down collar is -- as does most of the world, I'd imagine. (It's not that hard.) This is not that.

Old Red Eyes
post Jan 27 2019, 10:24 PM

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QUOTE(niakulah @ Jan 27 2019, 10:22 PM)
I sure do.
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Got it buttoned up, with a tie?

Old Red Eyes
post Jan 27 2019, 10:29 PM

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QUOTE(niakulah @ Jan 27 2019, 10:22 PM)
I sure do.
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No offense, but from the looks of this pic, I guess my idea of clown might be the going rate in Malaysia.
niakulah
post Jan 27 2019, 10:30 PM

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QUOTE(Old Red Eyes @ Jan 27 2019, 10:24 PM)
Got it buttoned up, with a tie?
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Sorry but no. My workplace doesn't require ties.
Attached Image

Here's a pic of it unbuttoned, next to a 'normal' button down, also unbuttoned.
It is indeed huge, but the 'normal' collar doesn't really roll that nicely.
Old Red Eyes
post Jan 27 2019, 10:37 PM

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QUOTE(niakulah @ Jan 27 2019, 10:08 PM)
That's too bad that he got your collar mixed up. Between my 7 shirts with him, I have his point, semi-spread, and button down collars.

I particularly enjoy the collar roll of his button down (which is why I have 3), but you really have to know what you're getting into. Not everyone is familiar with the style, or know that it is never to be worn in unbuttoned.

It's a very American style, as we see on young Bruce Wayne here:
Attached Image

My colleagues did think I was nuts the first time I wore it to the office!
*
No, that's the problem. It's not at all an American style. Not in the least. It's a very clumsy attempt to do Italian in American style. If you want American style, it's very, very simple: buy Brooks Brothers. You would never find anything close to so garish a style in a Brooks Brothers catalog. I don't think you would find it from Ralph Lauren either, despite his Italian leanings.

This attempt at style is just awful. That is fully evidenced by your thinking that it is American when it is decidedly Italian. It just doesn't know what it wants to be, and you don't either, but it reached out to you on some level and you bought it.

Old Red Eyes
post Jan 27 2019, 10:45 PM

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QUOTE(niakulah @ Jan 27 2019, 10:30 PM)
Sorry but no. My workplace doesn't require ties.
Attached Image

Here's a pic of it unbuttoned, next to a 'normal' button down, also unbuttoned.
It is indeed huge, but the 'normal' collar doesn't really roll that nicely.
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I guess I giggle at your excitement for the 'roll'. The collar doesn't look elegant. Particularly since you can't wear it with a tie. You'd be far, far better off investing in something more serious.


niakulah
post Jan 27 2019, 10:46 PM

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QUOTE(Old Red Eyes @ Jan 27 2019, 10:29 PM)
No offense, but from the looks of this pic, I guess my idea of clown might be the going rate in Malaysia.
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None taken. As I said, it's not a style everyone is familiar, or comfortable, with.

Here's an equally huge collar from Singapore:
https://www.instagram.com/p/BmLLA3rHLT3/?ut...d=168m4nb2i0n7u

https://www.instagram.com/p/Bb0eWxxA_Iw/?ut...id=sg2y114pusyb

And Amsterdam:
https://www.instagram.com/p/Bkfx6NuHo78/?ut...d=12hhzttzhdsyo

And Japan:
https://www.instagram.com/p/BpfUtRrFqAx/?ut...id=9o8w5hb5gas5

niakulah
post Jan 27 2019, 10:49 PM

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QUOTE(Old Red Eyes @ Jan 27 2019, 10:45 PM)
I guess I giggle at your excitement for the 'roll'. The collar doesn't look elegant. Particularly since you can't wear it with a tie. You'd be far, far better off investing in something more serious.
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I have spread collars for when the occasion calls for it. Variety is the spice of life.
Old Red Eyes
post Jan 27 2019, 10:53 PM

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The Japanese one is a traditional American style. The 100 Hands is aggressive, but at least it's out there in front, no questions asked (and I'd also note that it doesn't have fabric to spare for when it buttons). The Dylan and Sons is passable, but only as a casual shirt. There is no business shirt that buttons like that.
Old Red Eyes
post Jan 27 2019, 10:55 PM

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QUOTE(niakulah @ Jan 27 2019, 10:49 PM)
I have spread collars for when the occasion calls for it. Variety is the spice of life.
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Of course. We all do. We're talking about tailoring here.

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