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 The Tailoring Thread, Bespoke. Nothing beats a perfect fit

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kotmj
post Aug 25 2010, 08:06 PM

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QUOTE(FusioneX @ Aug 25 2010, 07:42 PM)
I remember Loke-chai has a pair in the same colour as well (albeit with much darker tone). I'm sure I have the pictures somewhere in my hard disk.
*
Let it be. Allow him to escape his lala past.
bloke1
post Aug 25 2010, 11:38 PM

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All of you do stalking for a living.
U+FFFD
post Aug 26 2010, 12:13 AM


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And I think I saw kokmj's picture in the creepy sartorial images thread last week. I wonder who posted that up. hmm.gif
bloke1
post Aug 26 2010, 12:21 AM

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....

This post has been edited by bloke1: Aug 26 2010, 10:33 AM
Cheenoo
post Aug 26 2010, 07:08 AM

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I found a pic of loke-chai.
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


malutapimau
post Aug 26 2010, 07:46 AM

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lokechai lives in a store? isit kamdar store?
U+FFFD
post Aug 26 2010, 09:24 AM


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QUOTE(Cheenoo @ Aug 26 2010, 07:08 AM)
I found a pic of loke-chai.
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

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That is not Loke-chai, Cheenoo. That is mafoofan, one of Esquire's BDRM (Best Dressed Real Midget).

Try digging harder because Loke-chai tends to remove his pictures shortly after he have uploaded them.
bloke1
post Aug 26 2010, 10:49 AM

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I tried on an unstructured jacket lately. It is so soft and comfortable, almost like wearing nothing. I'm surprised why 99% of Malaysians don't wear any of them. They prefer hoodies instead.
kotmj
post Aug 26 2010, 11:29 AM

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I see lots of cheap cotton unstructured jackets (not the proper Italian ones, but department store stuff) over here.
beau
post Aug 26 2010, 01:22 PM

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QUOTE(bloke1 @ Aug 26 2010, 10:49 AM)
I tried on an unstructured jacket lately. It is so soft and comfortable, almost like wearing nothing. I'm surprised why 99% of Malaysians don't wear any of them. They prefer hoodies instead.
*
The hoods are used to concealed their identity when they wear ill fitting clothes


Added on August 26, 2010, 1:28 pm
QUOTE(kotmj @ Aug 26 2010, 11:29 AM)
I see lots of cheap cotton unstructured jackets (not the proper Italian ones, but department store stuff) over here.
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The only ones available which are half decent are RTW ones from the designer brands ( Armani etc )

The "Kei" Jacket from Canali is particularly nice.

BTW a friend has borrowed mine in an attempt to have Gshen's tailor replicate it. Should be another worth while challenge for you to have ALT make something similar or even a shirt jacket since you've beaten him into total submission with your soft DB. How's that progressing?

This post has been edited by beau: Aug 26 2010, 01:28 PM
Cheenoo
post Aug 26 2010, 01:33 PM

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QUOTE(FusioneX @ Aug 26 2010, 09:24 AM)
That is not Loke-chai, Cheenoo. That is mafoofan, one of Esquire's BDRM (Best Dressed Real Midget).

Try digging harder because Loke-chai tends to remove his pictures shortly after he have uploaded them.
*
Oh, that's foo? lol, i was only joking when i said it was loke-chai but in my mind he has that kind of face. biggrin.gif
kotmj
post Aug 26 2010, 02:16 PM

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QUOTE(Cheenoo @ Aug 26 2010, 01:33 PM)
Oh, that's foo? lol, i was only joking when i said it was loke-chai but in my mind he has that kind of face. biggrin.gif
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Actually, when I think of Lokemui I think of this (also a Calvin Loke on FB):

user posted image

user posted image


Added on August 26, 2010, 3:11 pmI'm in the midst of a secret project right now that involves access to choice fabrics at wholesale prices.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Aug 26 2010, 03:11 PM
malutapimau
post Aug 26 2010, 04:19 PM

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good haircut


Added on August 26, 2010, 4:20 pmare you ordering another greenish fabrics?

This post has been edited by malutapimau: Aug 26 2010, 04:20 PM
gshen
post Aug 26 2010, 04:37 PM

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QUOTE(beau @ Aug 26 2010, 01:22 PM)
The hoods are used to concealed their identity when  they wear ill fitting clothes


Added on August 26, 2010, 1:28 pm

The  only ones available which are half decent are RTW ones from the designer brands ( Armani etc )

The "Kei" Jacket from Canali is particularly nice.

BTW a friend has borrowed mine in an attempt to have Gshen's tailor replicate it. Should be another worth while challenge for you to have ALT make something similar or even a shirt jacket since you've beaten him into total submission with your soft DB. How's that progressing?
*
Did he bring your Canali? I saw 2 jackets he brought - one was a blue linen/viscose GA cardigan-ish jacket, and the other was a Brioni (i think?) bespoke that was not particularly impressive, at least in terms of fit. I thought it impolite to request to scrutinize the details on a stranger's suit that he probably paid a lot for.

He also brought a very long list of details and a dozen or so pictures, but did not really seem to have a clear idea of what he wanted? If he wants the Canali kei or GA jacket's softness, he should have ask for no canvas & completely unstructured..he asked for canvassing.

FWIW, a friend of mine has a W Bill (13-14oz) linen 6x2 DB jacket done completely unlined & uncanvassed, which is washable by hand.. I've seen it and it is very NOICE indeed. The heft of the cloth helped tremendously, though, and a H&S linen at 10oz would not have the same effect IMO.



beau
post Aug 26 2010, 05:22 PM

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QUOTE(gshen @ Aug 26 2010, 04:37 PM)
Did he bring your Canali? I saw 2 jackets he brought - one was a blue linen/viscose GA cardigan-ish jacket, and the other was a Brioni (i think?) bespoke that was not particularly impressive, at least in terms of fit. I thought it impolite to request to scrutinize the details on a stranger's suit that he probably paid a lot for.

He also brought a very long list of details and a dozen or so pictures, but did not really seem to have a clear idea of what he wanted? If he wants the Canali kei or GA jacket's softness, he should have ask for no canvas & completely unstructured..he asked for canvassing.

FWIW, a friend of mine has a W Bill (13-14oz) linen 6x2 DB jacket done completely unlined & uncanvassed, which is washable by hand.. I've seen it and it is very NOICE indeed. The heft of the cloth helped tremendously, though, and a H&S linen at 10oz would not have the same effect IMO.
*
The Armani is mine -The ill fitting Canali his. I told him that it was not a good buy but he was carried away with the euphoria of attending the opening of the boutique at KL Pavilion & was probably enticed by the attractive sales girl to do an MTM.

He probably want something robust for travel & is contemplating a shirt jacket which would probably have no canvas.

Sounds like him to be very detailed & demanding I'm sometime surprise he didn't carry an entire encyclopedia with charts & diagrams etc. Comes from his early experience as a lab rat !!

I have mixed feelings about the bespoke Brioni that he is so fond off after he abandon the Row. It seems to me that it's a lot of money compared to what's available in the market. He could have opted for Caraceni or a Gianni Campagna which is much better in terms of fit & finish . His insistence on a loose fit is probably what affects the shape of the jacket . For some strange reason he would wear jumpers underneath his jackets & an extremely fitted Jacket from the Row would have made uncomfortable Was it the Grey or Navy Brioni he used as a sample?
The Grey doesn't seem to fit as well as the Blue version he first made. I understand that there were some issues at Brioni which lead to the departure of the former MD for Brioni as well as my friend's cutter for his initial suit.

The new cutter made modifications to the pattern which in my opinion was unwarranted.

Thanks for the tip . I will pay a visit to W Bill when I am next in London . The place is a maze of materials & one can spend an entire day there.
kotmj
post Aug 26 2010, 06:35 PM

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QUOTE(gshen @ Aug 26 2010, 04:37 PM)
Did he bring your Canali? I saw 2 jackets he brought - one was a blue linen/viscose GA cardigan-ish jacket, and the other was a Brioni (i think?) bespoke that was not particularly impressive, at least in terms of fit. I thought it impolite to request to scrutinize the details on a stranger's suit that he probably paid a lot for.

He also brought a very long list of details and a dozen or so pictures, but did not really seem to have a clear idea of what he wanted? If he wants the Canali kei or GA jacket's softness, he should have ask for no canvas & completely unstructured..he asked for canvassing.

FWIW, a friend of mine has a W Bill (13-14oz) linen 6x2 DB jacket done completely unlined & uncanvassed, which is washable by hand.. I've seen it and it is very NOICE indeed. The heft of the cloth helped tremendously, though, and a H&S linen at 10oz would not have the same effect IMO.
*
Be truthful: How many hours a week do you spend at Iris?
gshen
post Aug 26 2010, 06:48 PM

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QUOTE(beau @ Aug 26 2010, 05:22 PM)
The Armani is mine -The ill fitting Canali his. I told him that it was not a good buy but he was carried away with the euphoria of attending the opening of the boutique at KL Pavilion & was probably enticed by the attractive sales girl to do an MTM.

He probably want something robust for travel & is contemplating a shirt jacket which would probably have no canvas.

Sounds like him to be very detailed & demanding I'm sometime surprise he didn't carry an entire encyclopedia with charts & diagrams etc. Comes from his early experience as a lab rat !!

I have mixed feelings about the bespoke Brioni that he is so fond off after he abandon the Row. It seems to me that it's a lot of money compared to what's available in the market. He could have opted for Caraceni or a Gianni Campagna which is much better in terms of fit & finish . His insistence on a loose fit is probably what affects the shape of the jacket . For some strange reason he would wear jumpers underneath his jackets & an extremely fitted Jacket from the Row would have made uncomfortable Was it the Grey or Navy Brioni he used as a sample?
The Grey doesn't seem to fit as well as the Blue version  he first made. I understand that there were some issues at Brioni which lead to the departure of the former MD for Brioni as well as my friend's cutter for his initial suit.

The new cutter made modifications to the pattern which in my opinion was unwarranted.

Thanks for the tip . I will pay a visit to W Bill when I am next in London . The place is a maze of materials & one can spend an entire day there.
*
Detailed and demanding is OK if you know exactly what you want! It seems though that he is a bit confused as to what he wants..this makes life difficult for the tailor. My tailor didn't complain, but I would if i were the tailor laugh.gif

Well, I guess we can't decide how someone's $$ is spent.. whether it is a Brioni suit or *gasp* Maison Martin Margiela sneakers! It was the grey one anyway.

I am fortunate to have a local agent willing to part with cut lengths of W Bill. Great stuff indeed & I would certainly break my piggy bank if I were to set foot into their dungeon of cloth.


QUOTE(kotmj @ Aug 26 2010, 06:35 PM)
Be truthful: How many hours a week do you spend at Iris?
*
Enough for me to know what's being commissioned by the SF community laugh.gif

Well, they are conveniently located in town and I always seem to either have something to drop off there for friends, or be called upon (by friends, not the tailor!) to be the watchful eye during fittings.

Somehow my constant presence never helps speed the process of collecting my stuff.. Looks like I must reevaluate my strategy. Maybe post some G2000 on that SF thread and claim that standards have fallen?



kotmj
post Aug 26 2010, 07:12 PM

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QUOTE(beau @ Aug 26 2010, 01:22 PM)
BTW a friend has borrowed mine in an attempt to have Gshen's tailor replicate it. Should be another worth while challenge for you to have ALT make something similar or even a shirt jacket since you've beaten him into total submission with your soft DB. How's that progressing?
*
I dont mind taking a rest from being the pioneer. Why dont you go first this time, for a change?

I shall collect my db in a week.


Added on August 26, 2010, 7:28 pm
QUOTE(gshen @ Aug 26 2010, 06:48 PM)
Detailed and demanding is OK if you know exactly what you want! It seems though that he is a bit confused as to what he wants..this makes life difficult for the tailor. My tailor didn't complain, but I would if i were the tailor  laugh.gif
it's the tailors job to extract from the customer his innermost ambitions for the suit, don't you think? maybe the dozens of pics had a common theme running through them the customer, lacking tailoring knowledge, was able to vaguely discern but is unable to articulate?

i am also familiar with the contradiction of wanting a soft easy jacket yet wanting all the shape of a stiff one. there is a middle road, one that john hitchcock treads everyday.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Aug 26 2010, 07:28 PM
gshen
post Aug 26 2010, 07:42 PM

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You are right - it's the tailor's job indeed.

But when the customer shows a picture of a hard 3B and asks for a 3 roll 2, shows a low gorge and asks for a high gorge.....
kotmj
post Aug 26 2010, 10:43 PM

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QUOTE(gshen @ Aug 26 2010, 06:48 PM)
Somehow my constant presence never helps speed the process of collecting my stuff.. Looks like I must reevaluate my strategy. Maybe post some G2000 on that SF thread and claim that standards have fallen?
*
Tell her it takes 1 week to make up a suit in KL. That you find the concept of short lead times intriguing.

Maybe i can claim that my alt db is from iris, that ought to frighten off potential customers.

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